[New Fridge - A Few Teething Problems]

Mine has a shelf in the freezer but ours is five years old perhaps they gone down hill

 

 

Probably, there are not even slots for one, hence making a self supporting one.

[New Fridge - A Few Teething Problems]

We've just bought a Sh**line F/F. Changed the door hanging, went OK but the plugs I removed to fit the hinge don't fit in the old holes cos they are now to small to fit the holes that had the screws in and no spares are supplied.

The radio [240v] now picks up interference whenever the fridge starts, never had that problem with the old one.

 

The seperate freezer compartment doesn't come with a shelf so you have to pile everything up. Have now made one by heating some Perspex into an 'n' shape.

 

Poor quality, considering the high price, and poor customer service received when phoning to ask about spare plugs and a shelf.

 

Can't see me buying a Sh**line again or recommending them.

 

Only reason we bought this was the depth, but I think we would have been better off resiting it and buying 240v F/F and inverter.

 

Must be better quality out there surely.

[Water where it shouldn't be]

............ find a new surveyor for the next boat.

[Fancy a Move?]

Just googled using the postcode provided [NN12 7SW] but the propery advertised and that shown when googled bear no resemblance!

The googled property looks very crowded, don't think I'd like to live there, but the one advertised looks OK just as it is.

 

Edited to add, just found it further up towards the museum, nice situation.

[Boat pricing]

What type of mooring does it come with, residential, leisure, marina, online, etc:?

 

How much of the baseplate was replaced.

[Calder and Hebble Spike]

Evening guys and Gals.Wife and I are presently moored on the Aire and Calder,soon to be on the Calder and Hebble.We both remember from our hire boat days (20 year apprenticeship) using a wooden spike to open certain paddles on the locks.Well i need to make one during my visit this week home in Essex. Do any of you have any dimensions and /or pictures of said spike.If you do could you email the details please to ds9150@googlemail.com

The reason for asking for emails as i can never find my posted topics once posted on here......Is it just me ?.

One other question my wife just reminded me to ask is....Our narrowboat is 57' long,and i believe the locks on the C&H are only 58'. How tight will it be in the locks? Choose your answer carefully...hehe

Thanks Dave and Di Narrowboat Urquhart Castle.

 

Pics and dimensions here :-

 

http://www.penninewaterways.co.uk/calder/handspike.htm

 

Also info on lock sizes and access.

[Which Switch?]

Hi All,

 

I have a small Electrolux fridge on my boat. It has 12v, 240 and gas options.

 

It has two switches on the front - one red, one green.

 

It has two dials - one temp, one gas.

 

Can anyone tell me what model it is?

Is there an online manual available?

Does anyone know which of these switches is 240 and which is 12v?

 

 

Thanks in advance

 

TR

 

 

Pic might help here, or look on ebay under '3 way electrolux fridge' might find one like yours there which may help you. Failing that pull fridge out and look on the back, should be a plate with model No: etc:

[Help! has anyone seen my boat?]

Have to admit I thought you were a bit of a plonker at the start of this thread, but having seen the condition of the NB you intend to refurbish I can only admire your intentions, sincere good luck.

 

Looked her up on Jim Sheads listing and she's seems quite shallow so should have no probs with Supermarket trolleys 'Draft 0.01 metres'

[Engine cut out, won't start]

Ignore my previous post as after having re-read properly, I think it's irrelevant.

 

But, on post 4 you said :-

the air filter housing seems to be a bit squashed

 

and Rogers post 9 suggested :-

On your main problem, black smoke is caused by over-fuelling, lack of full air inlet flow or over-loading of the engine such that the fuelling cannot be correct for the load demanded.

 

Have you checked the air filter yet?

[Engine cut out, won't start]

How long have you had the boat and when was the engine previously run?

 

When was the diesel last topped up?

[A more truthful article about living afloat]

Clearly, she neglected to access this forum before buying

 

Be thankful for small mercies!

[how to.....top up batteries?]

Use a torch and a mirror to see the levels. If they need topping up use one of the distilled water bottles that has a flexible tube and do it a little at a time. As you look in, if you can see the top of the battery plates above the water level then top up until just covered, you need to do this for each cell. If you can't see the plates above the water level then they should be OK. If in doubt ask someone to help you, most will.

 

PS You're not an idiot, you've proved that by asking first.

 

Edit to add, don't look directly/closely into the battery with the naked eye or light a match.

[Help! has anyone seen my boat?]

As it only finished last night, and the guy has included a picture of himself in the listing, which would appear in itself daft if he were trying a scam, and I assume you have not parted with any cash, can I enquire as to why it's already turning into a legal case.

I know it could be disappointing that he may have decided not to sell after having allowed it to run to the end on Ebay, and that in itself means he has broken his contract and could be guilty of breaching Ebay rules, but I would have thought that unless you've paid any cash that it wouldn't be worth the worry & hassle to pursue it further, or have I missed something?

[Clunck clack, stop.]

To the experienced, I'm not trying to teach granny how to suck eggs, but for others not so experienced, such as me, this may be helpful.

 

Pulling away after a pump out [don't start] clunk! the engine suddenly stopped accompanied by a clack, I had picked something up on the prop. Perhaps foolishly, I restarted the engine, kept it at tickover, engaged reverse hoping that whatever was there would unwrap & drop off, but clunk, and engine stops again. Repeated same in foreward and again a clunk and a clack and the engine stops. Moored up, weed hatch off, cut away someones lost mooring rope & carried on back to mooring, about 200 yds, no problem.

 

When I was in the engine hole messing about in the weed hatch it was obvious that the exhaust had sprung a leak as the once white paintwork was now a lighter shade of black. Removed the offending exhaust and thought whilst I had the extra space I would move the batteries off the floor and onto the swim out of harms way, something I had wanted to do for a while. Whilst doing this I noticed that the front engine antivibration mounts looked 'not quite right'. Guess what, it appears the clacks were in actual fact the front mounting bolts snapping. Took them to Uxbridge to replace the bolts, only to be told that the antivibration mounts were completely inadequate for boat engines and were more suited to workshop machinery. All my mounts base plates had '65' stamped on them which is apparently their designed weight capacity in lbs. My engine is a 3 cylinder Perkins weighing 300lbs or thereabouts so they were not really suitable to carry that in a static capacity.

 

It was then explained that even had they been 100 lbs each, they were not upto the job because boat engine antivibration mounts have to be able to sustain enormous torque [sideways twisting of the engine] especially when your prop picks up something and stops the engine dead, he also explained that the rears need to be rated higher than the fronts as they carry the extra weight of gearbox and some of the stearn gear. So I decided to change all the mounts, and off I went with 2 x 230's for the front and 2 x 410's for the rear.

 

When I was changing the rears I found that the engine supports had actually both split slightly and one had a twist. Took both to Uxbridge where they had them fixed.

 

As I was tightening down the antivibration mounts onto the bed the washers started to dish so I replaced them with some rectangular ones I made out of 3/16 steel, also because the engine supports had an elongated slot, I made some for there as well otherwise they would only have been gripping on two sides rather than all round, bit belt & braces but having got away lightly with what could have run into a huge amount of money & time I decided it not to leave anything to chance.

 

Had I been changing like for like the job would have been fairly straight foreward, but as it was there was a lot of redrilling locating holes and filing out existing ones, cutting down bolts to accomadate the alternator making washers and checking engine alignment as the job progressed I've now had the exhaust repaired and will be fitting that next week before going off to Willowbridge for a hull shotblasting and repaint. I also finished up electric wire brushing the complete engine hole and repainting it, relocating the batteries and tidying the wiring [another story] but it was all worth it.

 

So for the inexperienced, check your engine mounts are all in good condition and adequate for the job, because trying to stop a loose diesel engine banging around in the engine hole could be nigh on impossible before it has wrecked your gearbox, stearngear, tube and prop, not to mention the damage to the engine itself and the engine hole.

 

I feel so lucky I found the problem before going off to Milton Keynes!

 

Edited to add sorry it's so long, b*gger just made it longer, b*gger done it again.

[Interesting Heater on Ebay..]

Yep, it runs on diesel or kerosene Ely Chandlers sell them for £540

they also have a brochure on the site

 

Theirs has a water heater coil, the one on Ebay doesn't.

[pullman dinette]

Got the plans for one if you want them, kindly sent to me by a forum member who was quite happy for them to be forewarded to thems that need 'em. PM me with your email address.

[Quick question on Battery cables.]

Try any good wholesale electrical supplier, ask for triple rated cable, got mine from CES Electrical Supplies Ltd,‎ Salisbury Road, Hillingdon, Uxbridge, London, UB8 2RS, 01895 850 060‎, [an independent supplier] it cost 1/2 the price quoted by a chandlers and that was for normal thin wall auto cable.

 

City Electrical Factors, the national company, [1] wouldn't supply any cable in red & black, saying they were now illegal colours!!!, which for 240v wiring use is correct but for other use is still OK, in fact I'm told it has to be used for 12v systems in boats? [2] had no idea what triple rated cable was !!! [3] didn't supply auto cabling and didn't know where to get it from.

[Where Best To Purchase A VHF Radio ?]

http://marinestore.co.uk/Merchant2/merchan...Store_Code=mrst

 

RE: Carl's recommendation, the above will show a larger image and all the specs.

[Shore power from a house socket?]

You also need to take into account the cable run [length] from house to boat and ensure it's of the correct type, if only for temporary use 2.5mm 3core arctic cable should be fine but protect it where necessary.

[Oily Coolant...]

Would it not be easier to first, flush out the coolant and replace with a fresh mix of water/anti-freeze. If still oily/waxy then look further.

[Solar panels (Again!)]

They certainly seem to be extremely good, one question though, can they be walked on? Looked through the blurb but can't find an answer. Wondered what would happen to them if you had to jump back on board in a hurry whilst single-handed and low in a lock! Wouldn't want to wreck them at that cost.

 

One more question springs to mind, how difficult would it be to remove them once fitted?

[computer security]

Don't touch Norton in any form, it'll slow your PC to a crawl plus it ain't that good.

 

AVG free will only cover virus's but you won't get any tech support, whereas AVG internet security V9 will cover everything including ID protection and you'll get free tech support for the duration of the licence, cost is around £49 for two years and you can legally use it on upto 3 PCs.

 

A lot of people like Kaspersky and Avast both of which I believe have a free version but again the freebies will normally only cover virus's and nothing else, but there is a free version of MalwareBytes which is very good and will obviously deal with the malware side.

[More about Stragglethorpe Bridge]

Using IE8 but can't get to the letter, just get the same error as MJG

 

Edit, loaded Firefox, no better.

[HELP PLEASE....PUTTING IN NEW DOORS]

HI...ID LOVE SOME ADVICE ON TAKING ON ONE OF THE MANY JOBS ON MY LIST!

I NEED TO REPLACE THE TIMBER THAT LIVES AROUND THE BACK DOOR.....(?)

THE WOOD HAS SOME KIND OR THIN RUBBER? UNDERNEATH IT.....

SO IF I TAKE ALL THE WOOD OFF (ROTTEN) AND REPLACE EXACTLY WHAT SHOULD BE THE BEST PRACTICE? AND SHOULD I COAT THE HARDWOOD?

DO I GLUE OR SCREW?

 

THANKS

 

Hi can you not write in caps please as it denotes shouting, on here anyways, thanks.

 

Regarding fixing new wood I'd wait to see what's holding the existing in place and do the same, more likely to be screwed.

The thin rubber is probably some sealant put there to stop water getting behind it.

 

Several coats of varnish won't be a bad idea.

[Narrowboats and wide boats rediscovered at Harefield - the facts]

It's the bit you can't see from the cut Mike - they opened up the end to get them in, then backfilled it.

Awful lot of shrubbery grown up in the intervening years - HERE Compare that to Laurences aerial shot with the channel opened up - post No.20

 

There's a better shot from Bling maps, but you'd be hard pressed to make any kind of boat or hull out in any of them in that back water.

I think they're making it all up myself - wild goose chase for a bit of publicity . . . Is it April already?

 

Derek

 

They are there alright, I moor just across from them in Harefield marina, got several pics of them in January. To my totally untrained eye I would have thought a great deal of effort would be required to recover them. It would be nigh on impossible to get a crane or low loader in there because of all the trees. One or two have trees growing up through them, but loads of drawing could be made of their construction and I'm sure that with real enthusiasm some if not all could be recovered, but as I said, to the untrained eye what do I know.