Floaty Me Boaty

I will start searching on here to see if i can uncover the post. Thanks.

Hi Tony, Thanks for your insight as always. When i get up there on Sunday i will give it a good going over and see if there is anything obvious. The fact it has been sitting there for three years may have something to do with it.

Thanks for getting back to me. The first thing i will inspect then are the engine mounts, if the purchase is successful.

Hi All, Not sure what is causing the side to side rock on an Project Boat i looked at yesterday. Would you say it maybe a simple case of engine mounts? She only has 92 hours on her but been sitting around for a few years. I have attached a link to the video, i took yesterday, which shows the issue. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Thanks for talking the time to reply. I fill up the governor, vertical brass one, as part of the start up routine and usually when i stop her running, the reservoir takes a little while to drain down into the glass jar. I did notice that when she prematurely stopped as mentioned, the reservoir was empty, hence the reason i thought i may have filter issues. As you mentioned, It could be the tickover set too slow, as i have noticed that i can now stop the engine by turning the wheel right down, whereas before i had to push down on the linkage, as Dave Moore showed me that is how he use to stop his J3. I do have a tacho that was left with the engine, so is it a relatively easy task to adjust the tickover?

Hi All, Picky Brain Time. During my visit today, and a couple of weeks ago, my engine may have developed an issue whereby until it reaches optimum temperature, the fuel appears to drain from the Governor, which then makes the engine cut out. When i turn the throttle wheel up, and restart, there is no issue and all runs well. Can i ask one of you officiadoes, what do you believe could be causing it. I have no apparent fuel leaks, so not sure why it is not filling correctly. Do you think it could be filter related? Thanks in advance.

Now i am totally lost. A visit from Tom is now on the agenda as i do not know what is happening. Why would it drain all the water from the system, that is what i am confused about.

Hi Majestic Metals, but there is a place near Hastings that will also give a template a go. There was a issue with the cogs but didn't turn out too bad in Bronze

Spot on Tony. Without people's specific knowledge, on the subjects raised, a lot of us would be totally flummoxed.

Hi All, Thursday's visit was eventful. Once i had cleaned all the water up and dried her out, i went through all the checks recommended by you all, thank You, and once i had refilled her, i could hear a spitting noise when turning her over. On further inspection, the Drain Cock on the pump had somehow been knocked open. All other checks were good apart from the fact i couldn't find any pump packing in the toolbox. I will contact Tom later today to see if he can come down and re-pack the pump as it is no good me stripping it down on Monday, only to find i cannot finish the job.

Something else i noticed, but TBH I didn't pay a lot of attention too at the time, and that was when i opened up the Test Cock, i did notice lots of air in the water being emitted. Reading the Kelvin notes, it does say it should be a steady flow. One never knows.

Spoke to the previous owner yesterday and he has assured me that there is a bag with all spare bit and bobs in the toolbox. Not sure what i will find, but fingers crossed.

Wasn’t too sure if it was the correct pump and on talking to Mike, it is wrong and he hasn’t any drawings of a J Series pump.

That's great, thank you once again. I will check the toolbox first to see if there is the correct packing in there, and to obviously get an idea to what it looks like. Water Pump.pdf

Thanks for the info. I will double check the quantity on Thursday to ensure i have enough. Is it as simple as releasing the ring and the piston will come out at the top?

Morning All, Thanks very much for all your guidance, very useful. Also spoke to Tom (Langley Mill) and he has instructed me how to check the heads, just in case the worse case scenario has made a visit and one has cracked. I did come across some packing in the toolbox, that was left by the previous owner, but until i get the pump piston out, it means diddly at this moment in time. Off to pick up some Blue Antifreeze, as it does not contain any nasties, then start printing off your notes and readiness for my trip on Thursday. God, i wish there was a workshop manual around 🙂

Busy day on Thursday. Thanks for the guidance, very much appreciated. Is renewing the packing straight forward or is it a call to Tom to get him out? I dont mind tinkering but if it is a PITA, i would rather pay someone TBH.

Fingers crossed as there doesn't appear to be to many rubber hoses, but if it does transpire to be one of those bad boys, i will replace them all. I have also sent Tom Cauldwell an email, as he might be available to take a trip and do the job for me.

They did send me some pictures and the water was definitely blue, also the header tank had drained. I am assuming therefore it is from the cooling system. I will definitely check the pump on Thursday, thank you.

Hi, Thank for getting back to me. I tested the antifreeze, prior to the onset of winter, and glad to say it didn't freeze up, in our freezer. Everything is crossed that it is a hose, but maybe i am over thinking what it could be. I will take another bottle up with me in readiness. I was just trying to picture the system and if i recall, it didn't look that complicated. Doesn't help that i am only going on pictures.

Hi All, Would anyone have any information as the best way to fault find a leak on my cooling system on the J3. Is it simply a case of re-filling her and seeing what occurs? I know it is a gravity fed system pushed around by the pump, but i just received a phone call from the Marina that the water has drained out and sitting in the bilge. All was good a couple of weeks ago, so just enquiring if there is a 'Weak' spot i should go to first. Did wonder that a drain cock had been knocked open, but all looks good in the pictures they sent me. I am going up on Thursday so would be great to have some idea where to go to first. As always, appreciate your time in replying and giving guidance.

I hear what you are saying, but i only have used mine for the Shoreline Fridge, 12V 24W pulling a max of 2 amps, and the igniter, on the hob and cooker, which is miniscule.

I have different sockets and plugs for the 230V and 12V which are physically the same size, but round pins for the plug and sockets. As the 12v are round, so there can never be a chance of mixing them up. Although they are rated at 15 amps, they are perfect for 12v circuits.

Just to close this thread. I took the unit to Sellweb and their free diagnostic came back with a IDE Connector burnt, leaking Capacitors and pass trough relay shot to pieces. They quoted £295, which was accepted, and this weekend i installed the repaired unit and all is well. Thank you all for the input and guidance. Very much appreciated and grateful to you all for taking the time to assist.

Thanks for all your replies, much appreciated. A few posts ago, i mentioned that when i switched her on, i could hear a coil chatting away for a few seconds, then go into overload. This now points me to your second observation, and there could be issues with the small PCB that contains these. I am back next weekend, so will check for water ingress and condition of cable, as suggested, but all appeared good when i reconnected them yesterday. Strangely enough, i was looking at a visit to Tamworth, Sellweb, as he will carry out a free diagnostics. At least i am further on than last time when the unit just went into overload from the start.