leolady too
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Posts posted by leolady too
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Consider "Abranet" disks. They are expensive but very good and last a long time. Look here
http://www.mirkadustfreesanding.co.uk/net_prod.html
They help to kep the dust down (if used with a Henry or similar) and come in evry grade you could want.
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I have used this stuff very effectively
It comes in a range of colours and can be mixed. Of course it dries to a different shade and changes colour a bit when the varnish is applied so you'll need to experiment but with effort it can be made to match.
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Try these people. We remade our cratch cover including zips and "window" panels and got everything from them. They were very helpful when we visited and I imagine would be by 'phone if needed and if you weren't near enough to them to visit.
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The top one could be a tool for holding a plane iron for sharpening on an oil stone.
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I'm about to demonstrate my ignorance but I've always wondered why the boat diesel engine is 2.2l (a Nanni 4.220KC) and 50 hp but a 2.2l car diesel engine would have 150 hp or something like that. I know cars often have turbochargers and things (see, I'm getting the hang of the jargon with words like "things") but I don't see why there's such a difference. Be kind when explaining how stupid I am, please.
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Another vote for Trevor. Helpful, informative and thorough.
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I'm about to do an oil/filter change on our Nanni 4.220 KC. The replacement filter from AR Peachment is £17.38.
I've had difficulty identifying equivalents and if there's an expert who can confirm the equivalents are Mann W920/80 and Fram PH3614 I'd be very grateful and reassured.
The Framm/Mann equivalents (if I have the right ones) are £3 - £5 ish. I just wonder if they really are as good or whether this is a "you get what you pay for" situation. I'd like to save a few quid but I'm suprised at the difference in price and wonder if there is a difference in quality or is this just down to greed on the part of AR Peachemnt or their supplier.
The Nanni ref for the filter is N603003 or 970603003
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I've just fitted the transformer Loddon links to above. No idea yet whether it works but I can say it was very easy to fit. It comes with no instructions and no holes in the case, which foxed me for a bit. I used the wiring diagrams on the smartguage site to connect it up. I was swayed by the smartguage site advice which seemed to me to be saying there was a balance in favour of the transformer over the GI both for effectiveness in preventing electolysis and in safety. It is more expensive but I thought it worth the extra.
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I have had a go at splicing loops in braided rope. You need a set of fids and a bit of practice and some patience. You also need to be prepared to cut the end off and start again a few times. However, it can be done and once you get the hang of it it isn't that difficult. The last part of the process which involves some real tugging does require REAL EFFORT.
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It's always looked like watered down Vactan to me so I stick to Vactan.
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The paint we took off our roof had grit in (or between layers of) it. I mean grit, not sand. I tried a number of methods but settled on nitromors. Two gallon cans (about £50 for the two then) did the whole roof (62 ft boat). There was some light sanding afterwards but it really made the job very easy and not expensive compared to scabbler hire. I'd put in a word for Abranet abrasive sheets and a vacuum attached to the ROS. Abranet is expensive but lasts well and with the vacuum it leaves almost no dust. Wipe with panel wipe and you're done.
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Cellulose thinners (from Halfrauds if no where else) removes lacquer very quickly and easily. However, it will also take the paint of your roof so use with great care.
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We were waiting for a boat to come up a lock on the river Wey a couple of years back. This was a day boat full of ladies having a hen party of some sort. Much hilarity and booze and all of them having a good time. Unfortunately they'd opened the top and bottom paddles and were wondering why it was taking the lock so long to fill. I went and helped and they went on their very merry way but I was glad they were going in the opposite direction. I wouldn't want to stop anyone having a good time but I do think inexperience, booze and a narrow boat is a dangerous mix.
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You probably want a dog box
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We used the roller and tip off with a brush technique. We used purdy brushes which many think are the best (they ought to be given what they cost). I'd say that speed is very important and SWIMBO put on with the roller and I tipped off with the brush immediately and then left it alone whatever the temptation to go back and tittivate. We did about 12 - 18 inches at a time and I am suprised at the area the chap in the film was doing at a time though it clearly works for him. Perhaps he'd thinned the paint or was doing the job at a much cooler temperature than us. I believe thinning is something to do with caution. We used PPA which is a conditioner or something, supposed to make the paint flow better but not actually to thin it. I think thinning with, for example, white spirit, can lead to problems including a cloudy/milky look later.
Between coats we "sanded" with a random orbit sander attached to a henry vac and used Abranet disks either 400, 600 or 800 grit, depending on the coat and the defect, if any, we were sanding out. Abranet disks are expensive but I think they are worth it. You seem to be able to use a finer grit for the same effect and they do last (although that's probably partly to do with using a vac to take the dust away so they don't get clogged).
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Be careful, don't overdo the balance piece or you'll end up with negative helm ''Too light and the tiller won't self centre'' when let go of but whips over onto full helm, this horrid trait makes the boat horribly uncomfortable to steer and in a moment of inattention can put the boat up the bank.
We've just bought a new (to us) boat and the surveyor recommended cutting an inch off the forward part of the rudder to improve handling. At the moment she handles much as explained above. Does anyone have a formula to arrive at the correct ratio or is it a different fit for each hull.
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I have a trad stern. I attached a piece of 15mm copper pipe vertically just inside the rear doors and bought a fishing umbrella. I let 18 inches of spike out of the bottom of the umbrella and put that into the pipe. Being a fishing umbrella it's quite big so does the job well and being attached to the woodwork inside the rear doors, it obviously doesn't move with the tiller. The pipe was a bit left over so in practice free. It works very well except at a couple of low bridges. Its quick to take down and put up so no problem even then.
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We took the sand finish off our roof. We tried a number of tools, none of which was very effective. In the end three gallon tins of Nitromors did it for our 62 ft boat. The trick we found was that you need to do manageable sections and give the stuff time to work, don't rush. Leave it time to penetrate. You'll need at least two applications. Don't spread it out too much. It will probably start to dry before it's finished working. In that case, cover with cling film or cooking foil.
There's very little effort with this method and no dust or noise. The nitromors is expensive but we did our roof in a day and it was easy. I'd recommend it.
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My experience over many years of running my own small business and once after HMRC threatened to open an investigation when they couldn't (didn't want to) understand a very simple change in the method that I paid my mortgage was that in their eyes you are guilty until you prove your innocence (the opposite of normal law). They are free to make any allegations they want to and you have to prove that their allegations are false. It was once described to me as 'shaking the trees to see how many apples fall'.
It is perfectly correct that, with the assistance of a good accountant and good paperwork, you can fight them off as I managed to do but they often seem to work on the premise that if they make your life difficult enough that you will cave in and ask them how much they want to just get off your back whether that amount is correct or not. I've known other small businessmen who, after days of interviews away from their business, just gave in and settled as it was costing too much in lost trade to be away from the business .
Roger
All that is absolutely true and is why I get such satisfaction from defending people. It is true to say that if your accountant is difficult, unco-operative, arguementative and unyeilding with HMRC, they are much more liekly to leave you alone and pick on someone who's accountant is pleasant helpful and co-operative with them. These days HMRC staff are target driven and the last thing they want is an accountant who won't stick to their (entirely arbitrary and unrealistic) times for giving replies and who argues every point. What they want is someone who caves in early so they get their results and meet their targets.
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You're clearly applying logic to the tax rules. As a chartered accountant I can assure you that I was shocked when I studied tax -there is nothing logical or obvious about the rules.
When training I was taught the maxim "There is no Equity in Tax". This is a bitter pill to swallow. It means that there is no appeal to any sense of fairness/sense of right and wrong (equity) in tax law. One must accept the law as it is whether fair or not and the courts can only apply it. I've always interpreted the maxim to mean that tax law isn't even meant to be fair, it is just what it is.
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Trade has nothing to do with it. If you sell anything for a profit it is a declarable capital gain. As long as that gain does not exceed the annual CGT allowance it is not taxable. This applies to the disposal of all assets except your primary residence.
Where trade comes into it is that in selling several boats that you own a year, you will be viewed as a trader, and must provide warranties in accordance with consumer law for the goods you sell.
If you are trading, then your turnover will also require you to register for VAT if it exceeds the current level of (I think without checking) £78k pa.
Except, of course, tangible moveable property bought and sold for less than £6,000 which is exempt from CGT as is tangible moveable property which is a wasting asset, no matter what the proceeds, unless it has been subject to capital allowances.Boats are generally exempt except for "yachts, barges or boats used as a residence which may have a useful life of more than 50 years". There are other things too, cars, decorations for valour, insurance policies etc. As I said, this is complicated and professional advice is necessary. Whether I get paid for it or not, my professional body holds me liable, and I'm sure a court would too.
Just for clarity and not to criticise, the current VAT registration threshold is £77000.
I suppose my complaint, if I had one in all this, is the certainty with which some who have commented express their views on the basis of very limited information in the original post. That and what seems like a reluctance to resist HMRC when there is a case to argue.
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I presume you have read what the ex-taxman says?
The problem is that where something isn't totally clear-cut, the Revenue's view will prevail because it will be very hard to convince them or a court that you are not trading if the Revenue thinks you are.
The mere fact that the OP asked the question confirmed that she was considering this as a money-maker, and therefore as a business.
But I fully agree that she should take professional advice before she begins, and I suspect that advice would be not to bother, for reasons of cash-flow and practicality. Boats don't sell instantly, so either she would be hanging around doing nothing while waiting for a boat to sell, or she would have to buy one or two more concurrently in order to keep busy. And that would need serious cash.
I have indeed read what ex-taxman says. It is certainly not true that the mere fact of making a "profit" on one or two transactions means it is certainly a trade. There is much more to be considered than that. It is not an unexpected response from an ex-taxman. I agree that HMRC usually takes the view "If in doubt the answer's "yes", it is taxable". However, I regard part of my role as defending the innocent from the bully boy tactics of some HMRC officers. I usually find that a vigorous defence soon puts off the chancers at HMRC who try to get a quick victory by coming on strong. I cannot therefore agree that the HMRC view prevails where there is doubt. I have to say I love being as aggressive to them as some of them are to some tax payers!
All this assumes of course that you have a case to argue. Hence the need for advice, a matter on which everyone agrees.
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Yes indeed, but she mentioned several boats, doing them up, and selling them on. That is trading.
It might be trading or it might not. It might be little more than a self financing holiday. It's rarely clear cut in my experience and depends on the facts of the case. professional advice seems to be the answer. That way whoever gives the advice can elicit all the facts before giving it.
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I wasn't so sure she was planning to make money. It seemed to me that she might indeed make money but the object might have been to "have a few months boating", as she said. If she does make money that could be a happy result but not the intention. In either case I think she'd do well to get some advice.
Boat Painting.
in General Boating
Posted
We repainted our boat. We didn't go back to metal but did remove all fittings. It is a substantial task but satisfying.
Here is the benefit of our experience for what it's worth
Preparation is the most important part. Actually applying the paint (by roller and tipping off in our case) is relatively easy.
Use the best materials you can (we used craftmaster paint and purdy brushes for example)
Buy sanding disks, panel wipe, masking tape etc from a trade car paint place not a DIY shed. It's better quality and cheaper.
Hire a dock or tunnel to put the paint on. We did all the prep outside and covered with tarpaulins then went to dry dock to put the paint on (and keep the dust and rain off)
DO NOT leave masking tape on. DO NOT believe it when told it's 14 day tape. It will give an orange peel finish to the paint underneath if left on for more than a day (maybe less)
There's many threads on this, do some searching