Denis R
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Posts posted by Denis R
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What would you say is middle range price band by the way? I ask as it seems we may all have a different view of what that means.
For the purposes of assessing saleability in the current climate, let's get the ball rolling with:
Cheap: Less than £15000
Mid: £15000 - £80000 (yeah, big range, I know)
Top: £80000+ and anything that's considered 'niche'
Just a finger in the air, open to critique.
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Back on topic, boat prices and sales have been affected in a similar way to brick property sales: the prices are coming down to more sensible levels. If you bought at the top of the market, you'll lose some money. It was ever thus.
Absolutely. If you see the boat as a long term depreciating asset, its rate of decline will even out over the years and the current sudden drop will not be so significant. If you bought high and need to sell now, well there's not a lot you can do....
Do we think that the boats that sell despite a recession are either 'cheap as chips' or top end, it's the middle range that gets stuffed?
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Phew! Thought you two were going to take over from where Chris and Terry left off for a minute!
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I also believe that they have re-designed the layout, so that, oil, air, fuel filters are all on the same side.
That's a much more sensible layout to mine - a Beta 35 and I see on the 35 they've now moved the sump pump to a much more logical place compared to mine, although the oil filter's still down low on the 'wrong' side. Not that they can do anything about that easily though.
Based on the drawing and for your length boat, I'd definitely recommend the Beta 43.
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My local boatyard is reporting a heavy workload of repairs and alterations and they seem to think it's a case of owners adopting a 'make-do and mend' rather than sell and trade-up approach.
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I've got a Beta and it's a good solid engine. The only PITA is that it doesn't have 'marine friendly' single-side servicing, the oil filter's down in the bilge on the opposite side to the fuel filter so you need access all-round.
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Unfortunately, looking at your pictures, I fear someone has attempted to fit the drive on an installation where there is not enough room for it. If you fit the "bobbins" as I suggest I do not think you will be able to repack the sterngland (even if you can get the drive in) and if you moved the flange on the Pythondrive to in front of the angle iron I suspect you will find the gearbox coupling will simply not allow it.
I agree, and looking through the installation manual you'll see a drawing for a recommended thrust block mounting that is far more substantial than that flimsy angle iron.
Not knowing your installation and in the ideal world where you have oodles of space, I'd move the engine forward, remove the angle iron framework and get a new plate welded in to the design in the manual. At the same time I'd make the prop shaft longer so that the stern gland can be repacked without a total strip-down of the stern gear. I suspect that the 20-30cm you'll need isn't available?
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I've never heard of anyone putting out their stove to go through either Braunston or Blisworth tunnels and I have to admit that I don't. In my experience, any fug in either of those tunnels is more from exhaust smoke than stoves.
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How many though, are due to economic downturn and how many due to being evicted from that bridgehole called home and told to move on.
Don't think it's the bridgehole homesteaders making up the numbers S'Nib, they've moved on to the GU between Blisworth and Buckby!
I think John O has got the pulse. It's gonna hurt, and bad for a long time. I think there's a lot of boats NOT been put on the market, simply because even though the owners could do with selling them, they don't think they will.
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Paul,
How about trying a fork lift truck service agent if you get really stuck? They play with LPG systems all the time on 'gas' trucks and chances are your gas system has probably been seen elsewhere.
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Enforce the existing licence/mooring/cruising regulations consistently and systematically and not just when BW can be bothered or feel like it.
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Well, it's that time.... After a couple of occasional 'flame-outs' the last month my Webasto is now cutting out under load enough to determine that it's de-coke time. Unfortunately for me this isn't a five minute job as, although the installation workmanship is first class, there's not enough flexible hose joining the upper water connection to the copper pipework to get one of those hose clamps on..... Joy. This makes removing the boiler unit a right pain. A bit of a re-arrangement of the plumbing would sort it, but the thought of draining down the whole system and chopping stuff about is not very appealing at the moment. Would have been clever to have done it during the summer when I didn't need the boiler, I know....
Anyone got any bright ideas for avoiding a deluge between disconnecting the hose and getting a plug of some sort in?
How do you remove the large multi-pin wiring connector from the top of the control unit. I can see a clip on the small one, but no idea about the large one.
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Skimming through the installation manual it appears that the flange nearest the stern gland is incorrectly mounted and the rubber mountings are not performing their intended function.
Edited to say that we seem to be running parallel threads here and this has already been pointed out on the other thread....
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Mahle are an OEM supplier to most of the major European manufacturers, original fit for Isuzu in the Far East is probably Denso.
There's nothing sub-standard about Mahle, I reckon the cross reference was wrong and you ended up with a filter with the wrong characteristics.
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I thought the calorifier was 80l?
You shouldn't need to go bigger than about 16l for the EV.
Thanks for the feedback Robin. Yes the calorifier is about 80 litres, but playing with the calculator, having the pump at 2,5 Bar, the PRV at 3,0 Bar and the EV pre-charge pressure at 2,3 Bar is a crap combination. Depending on the temp range it comes out with an EV of 50 litres plus.
If I can get the pump cut-off down to 2,0 Bar as Pete suggests and keep the water temp range 10 - 85 Deg C it comes out where you're at. I think the nearest standard size EV is 18 litres, still physically challenging to find somewhere to fit it!
Apparently the FloJet is adjustable so it's beginning to sound do-able. Cheers.
Edited for crap syntax.
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My figures weren't quite that accurate!
However, I estimate at that pressure it will only accomodate about 2l before the PRV goes off, so yes a bigger EV is required. If the 3.64 figure is right (I was using 4l) you will need at least 10l, probably better to find a 12 or 15l vessel?
As the pressure in the EV rises (due to raising the pump pressure) the amount of volume available for expansion goes down, since the pressure reaches the PRV pressure quicker.
'Vessel operating pressure' should be set to pump cut-out pressure.'Vessel precharge pressure' can be set the same as pump cut-out pressure too, to give maximum expansion.
'Security valve pressure' is PRV release pressure, which is almost always 3 bar.
Edit: Pump cut out pressure looks pretty high at 2.5 bar, is it really that high and if so is it adjustable down to say 2.0 bar? Otherwise you'll need a pretty big expansion vessel.
cheers,
Pete.
Thanks for the heads up on my misuse of the calculator Pete. Once I'd cricked my neck trying to read the spec plate on the pump, I was surprised too at the 2,5 Bar setting. I've lost the blimmin' instructions for it so I'll need to do a bit of research to see if it's adjustable - there are no useful knobs or screws apparent....
Robin, my calculations weren't that accurate either!! Now Pete's put me straight on the formula it appears that even a 12 litre EV is too small. It's up to 80 litres!!!
Supplementary question to all. As it's downstream of a NRV do I need an EV that's suitable for potable water still?
Edited 'cos once again I F*****d up the calculation. Jeez. Pete, see what you mean about lowering the pump cut-out pressure!!!
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....and this isn't a wind-up. .....and your use of the 'Search' function has revealed nothing....
On the other hand, if your enquiry is genuine, welcome aboard and I'd suggest entering something like 'earthing' in the search engine. You'll have plenty of material to which you can refer!
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Thanks Robin,
Just checked to make sure and the pump cut-out pressure is actually 2,5 Bar so there's not a lot of margin. Assuming I'm using Smileypete's calculator link correctly and their 'vessel operating pressure' equates to the PRV pressure, it gives me a pre-charge pressure of 2,8 Bar based on that PRV setting of 3 Bar. Expanded volume worked out at 3,64 litres and resulting pressure in the EV of 5,97 Bar. All this is based on 85 Deg water temp heated from the engine circuit and 10 Deg feed water. Go 0 - 100 Deg and an 8 litre EV isn't big enough.... Tight?
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Right, I've just gone back through this entire thread and by filtering out the NVA posts have, I think, an idea of what I need. Here goes (God knows why....)
My system has a FloJet pump with built in cross-port relief (designed to minimise pump pulsation, so they say. It seems to work.) FloJet state that an accumulator must NOT be fitted to the circuit because of this built in system. However, I too suffer the dribbling PRV syndrome and the first PRV failed open due to scale build up after 2 years. The pump cut-out pressure is 2,0 Bar I believe. The PRV rating is 3,0 Bar. There is currently no NRV in the system and the 80 odd litre calorifier does not back-feed hot water into the cold.
I would propose to fit a NRV in the cold water feed close to the calorifier and between the NRV and calorifier, tee in an 8 litre EV pre-charged to whatever pressure that link to the calculator calculates.
Did I get it right?
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I've tried the cheaper alternative and it's a very poor imitation of Elsan Blue. Extremely unimpressed and the odour after a very short while was pretty repulsive, irrespective of how much I used. I tend to overdo the blue in my Thetford by about 50% as it keeps the odour down better.
....But, best I've found by miles is the double strength Thetford green, unfortunately it's not on the shelves locally so it's a search it out job.
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Further update - I've been given a case number by Planning Enforcement - ENF/08/7150 and contact case officer is Dawn Meeson. Fingers crossedd that something positive happens....
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Well the cassettes are a bog standard bit of kit....
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I emailed Sandwell Council this morning and got a message back from one Calvin Bradley, Planning Systems and Service Improvement Manager, to say that he'd passed it on to their Development Control Enforcement Team.
I now propose to go back and remind him of the pollution fears.
Any news from the locality?
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What's broken? If it's a C200, most of the moving parts are replaceable and there are a number on this forum who've donned the marigolds and done a bit of servicing, so advice and tips should be available....
credit crunched boaters
in General Boating
Posted
Yep, and I think that's why the market may appear stuffed.