Janz
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Posts posted by Janz
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16 hours ago, john.k said:
You can often improve the performance of a starter by simply oiling the bearings.......and as I suggested ,its likely your starter has an internal electrical fault,such as shorted armature windings,or even something simple like a faulty field coil............I think Lucas starters all have crimped armature to commutator connections,so they are not likely to be loose.
Yeah, I won't know 'til I get it in front of me. I'm just changing a wheel on my car & if I get time, I'll post up some readings... Thanks BTW...
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On 05/03/2022 at 12:55, Tony Brooks said:
I don't want to extend your problems but I don't think this is anything to do with an "earth" (negative) problem except just possibly some undersized main wiring, but that would only affect the starting.
Be aware that the way those rotary switches are normally wired allows either bank to feed both the engine and domestic circuits depending upon what position the switch is in, so in theory everything on the boat should work unless the switch is set to off
Remember if the starter motor can't reach its designed speed it will try to draw massive amounts of current so cables may well get hot.
Unless there were two faults that would either blow a fuse/trip a breaker or cause a fire.
This may be worth a try to allow you to move your boat and help prove the battery. Read it through several times so you understand it.
Take photos of everything and if necessary label the cables of what you are going to alter so you can put it back as it was.
On the rotary switch turn it to off and disconnect the cable from the start battery and all all the cables on the terminal that is not connected to the domestic battery. Take the two heavy cables and put them both on one switch terminal and tighten. leave the switch OFF.
That should have disconnected all the domestic circuits unless they are fed from the starter terminal of a junction box on the heavy cable between switch and starter.
Disconnect the feed onto the glow plugs.
Disconnect all the cables fitted on the starter motor's solenoid main terminal and tape all but the thick one out of the way. Reconnect just the thick one.
You now should have, in effect, just one heavy cable between battery positive and the starter but no way of energizing the glow plugs.
Fit a length of cable to that starter stud terminal but take great care of the other end of the cable because the cable will burn if it touches any metal.
You will use this to energize the glow plugs, but not yet.
Look at the end of the starter solenoid and you should see a thinnish cable on its own single terminal, usually a 6mm blade on a 1.5. Disconnect this.
That small terminal is the one that energizes the solenoid. You are going to use an old screwdriver to do the energizing, but not yet.
Get an old screwdriver with at decent thickness of blade and offer it up to the main terminal on the starter solenoid so you can work out how to very firmly bridge the gap between the main terminal and the small one. If you are timid you will get lots of sparks and chunks out of the blade when you do bridge the two terminals. ON NO ACCOUNT LET ANY METAL OF THE SCREWDRIVER TOUCH ANY METAL.
You are now almost ready to try to start it.
Connect that piece of cable you fitted earlier to one glow plug terminal, that will feed the others.
Make a slow count to 20 and bridge the two terminals. The engine should spin and fire up. You may need two or three goes but don't let the starter run for more than about 20 seconds at a time. AS soon a sit starts remove the screwdriver.
If it starts well done and immediately disconnect the cable you fitted to the glow plug and insulate its end so it can't short out but is ready for next time.
Your diesel does not need any electricity to run so it will run all day but be aware that there should be no charging taking place. You can then at least move the boat to a more convenient mooring.
We can worry about the charging later.
If it does not turn over fast enough to start then the battery is highly suspect.
Yes..! Success, Mr Brooks!
That worked, however it only worked with a replacement starter motor. So I'm assuming the motor is fried. The only motor I could get has been borrowed but at least I can move. It still does really strange stuff if I try it from the ignition &/or with the isolator wired in though but I can live with I'll test my motor & get back to you tomoz. Thanks for your help..!
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...lighting, just phone torch.
If we can't get it running we'll pull it back on the ropes. Need bed 'cos been drinking. If we can get it to B'ford the Bulgarian will have a spare alternator. Thanks for the reps & how to bypasd the isolator & ig switch 👍
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Thanks for replies. Got my brother coming tomoz to see what he can do. We're going to charge the battery & try what you said. I went over there earlier to prepare. He's gonna bring a dvm. The wiring from the ignition switch is a real mess. From what I can see, the glow plug wire has snapped at the crimp terminal & the pos has fused to the neg where the switch was loose. Got that cleaned up. Got instrument panel lights working but need some blade fuses. Got the starter to turn the engine, very slowly but it's turning. Couldn't do anymore 'cos I have noĺ
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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
I think that is very sensible because it is now clear that you seem to have several problems and have been floundering around doing one hing and another without any testing to confirm if what you were doing had any thing to do with the fault(s). You need to get your meter back ASAP
I am sorry but your descriptions are not clear enough to allow much remote diagnosis. For instance take this:-
If you had one of those rotary switches apart you may well have bent one of the wiper contacts and nothing indicates the switch was the problem. When you turn the ignition on the "lights" should all come on but it depends upon what you mean by "the lights". Oil pressure and charge warning lamps should light up and is normal and maybe the instrument illuminating lamps if fitted. However if you are saying your interior lamps came on then that is clearly not normal, but to me that does not suggest the rotary switch is faulty, It makes me think you might, for some reason, have a split charge relay that connected both battery banks and powered the domestic lights that you had left turned on when you left the boat. Now add the pump which, I assume is the domestic water pump, to that. If the rotary switch was left turned off there is no way the pump should have got any electricity so it could not run. The fact it did suggests you left both it and the master switch it turned on. It sounds as if the pump and anything else left on flattened the domestic battery to the point the pump could not run fast enough to reach cut out pressure so stayed running. If there is a split charge relay that would have connected both battery banks so the engine battery fed the domestics bypassing the rotary switch. However there are different ways of wiring and using rotary switches so how it is wired needs working out.
Note, the above is informed conjecture based on very little hard facts so could well be totally wrong but it fits the facts you have told us.
I am not sure any of us can be much help unless a knowledgeable kind member is close enough to look at what you actually have and how you are using it and report back. I think you need to look at each circuit in turn and work out what each part you come to does. Do not try to work out the whole thing as one massive system. My notes will hopefully guide you. You can ignore the domestic stuff for now and concentrate on the engine circuits fir now. Find out where the main alternator charging lead runs to and then how the charge gets to both battery banks and so on. Do not get side tracked by dodgy looking connections and wirirng until you know how all the circuits work and have ideally drawn a diagram of each. Those notes should guide you.
Thank you. You did your best for me & I really appreciate your time. You're right in that I have multiple issues that all share common parts - the battery(s), the isolator switch, the ignition switch, earth. The problems are not confined to the engine, or even the engine bay but occurring in the cabin - the pump, the USB ports, the interior lights.
Something is very wrong with the earthing I think. My mate did tell me this. It's the only thing that every other thing shares without conditions. For example, in every position of the rotary isolator except all circuits off, turning the ignition key will eventually cause all the interior LED lights to come on & the USB charge points to cut out but this doesn't happen all the time. It's intermittent. The only way I can see this happening is if the earth of the LEDs is being somehow energised by the ignition switch. The problem may lie in the fuse box. I have no idea. It must be happening somewhere where the common parts converge in close proximity, such as behind the inst panel. The rotary isolator switch is different in that it has three pins rather than two. I have just been looking at replacements. I think the engine is also not going to earth because nothing seems to work as it should - the alternator wasn't charging the battery, the solenoid will fire but it's not powering the starter, the glow plugs took at least a minute to get hot & they aren't the only things getting hot. Everything connected to the rotary isolator switch gets hot & all earth wires on all batteries. This is why I don't think it's the battery(s). They seem to take & deliver a charge ok. I can't be more specific but I charge the starter battery & it works. Even adding a jumper battery won't turn the starter/engine. It was a couple of days ago but now, nothing.
The only thing I can think of doing is totally isolating the starter battery, bypassing the ignition switch, earthing the engine to its cradle, seeing if anything electrical still works on the engine & replacing that which doesn't.
But look, I do really appreciate you racking your brain over this. I know it is a real ball ache. You're a patient, logical man & you have a good heart.
Right now I just want to get drunk & forget about this head pressure for a day or so. I have all sorts of problems outside of the boat world - legal problems, housing problems, cashflow problems... I'm actually surprised I'm not a gibbering wreck. The boat was my plan of escaping those problems but it hasn't worked & it's now become another problem which is taking way too much of my attention & yours.
I'll leave you guys alone for a bit & in a few days when I've read through your notes & isolated the engine department from the rest, I'll let you know my progress if any...👍
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
Look if money is tight do not lash out on a top of the range battery. Start batteries have a very easy life and even a cheap one should last well over 5 years, I have had over 10 years out of start battery on my boat. What position will you be in if it is not the battery? I have suggested three ways of getting a fairly definitive test on the battery, none of which will cost that much money.
Think my battery is a Yuasa, 110ah. I'm not going to get anything flash. If it isn't the battery & the battery going flat is just a symptom of something else, it has had a hard time recently being charged & discharged by me trying to either solve this problem or lights/pumps coming on randomly due to the isolator, or me leaving lights on for security before I knew my former neighbours. All this probably would have been taken up by the solar but I had to take that offline after the storm ripped all my wooden frames apart & blew them & the panels into the canal & now because I'm in a dead spot at the back of some playing fields by a school & I can't even move...
In the worst case scenario, at least buying a new battery will mean I have a spare that can maybe be revamped if it hasn't been totally trashed by whatever my electrical problem is. Unless I do something about it in the next few days, I'll be stuck for there for another month. I'm fairly used to living on the cheap but I never thought I'd have half a dozen different problems to have to sort out, so I'm just going to try & get my boat back to somewhere where I can get my car close by so I can get the rest of the work done on it because all this is just taking up too much time. The money I can lose but time isn't on my side.
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31 minutes ago, Slow and Steady said:
As you travelled from where you bought the boat without a problem starting it (?) I'd be asking myself what I'd done since that might have caused the problem. I know things do break, but "what did I do?" is always a good place to start.
Also - what have I disturbed? Any of your cables have damage to the insulation? Corrosion could be the culprit, I remember looking at a braided gearbox earth cable on a vehicle that hadn't been long in my possession - it looked ok but when I prodded it, it literally crumbled to dust!
A lot has happened. My solar panel (two), blew off in the storm. I lost one & recovered the other. Since then I have been having battery charging problems. But, even before that I had to charge my batteries twice getting the boat here. I thought the alternator was faulty but it wasn't that that killed the battery. It was my water pump. When I got the boat it was dry, so I filled it with water & connected the pump but the pump didn't work so I fixed that but I had a dripping tap, so what was happening was once the tap leaked out enough water, the pump would kick in maybe once an hour for about thirty seconds.
Anyway, I went back to the boat a few nights ago & the pump was going & it wouldn't shut off, so I unplugged it. Then every time I tried to start from the key, all the lights would come on, so I tried to fix the isolator switch. I just cleaned all the corrosion off the contacts. After that, it wouldn't start from the key, so I bridged the terminals to get it started. Now it doesn't start from the key or via the solenoid. It was turning the engine very slowly & blowing the fuse behind the ignition switch. Now it just clicks & the red & green lights go dim. Both pos & neg cables get red hot. It'll probably do something else next week...
So much has happened that it's impossible to diagnose anything. Just looking at the wiring behind the inst panel, I'm surprised it hasn't burst into flames...
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
If your battery is an open cell one and you can see liquid in all the cells (if one or two have no liquid on show there is a good chance the battery has had it) than a simple glass battery hydrometer from a motor factors would probably cost less than £10. take a sample of acid from each cell and post your six numerical readings (not the colored bands). Then we may be able to rule the battery in or out.
I'm just going to buy a new one, Tony. I've wasted enough time & energy trying to get things done on the cheap. As soon as I get my money in my account, I'll get the best starter battery I can afford. It will either be equal to or better than the one I have now. I'm basically out of time for messing with things now. It will be hard not having any money for food for the month but I don't really have a choice.
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
I think he needs the starter on the bench and supply just the solenoid, then push the pinion back to take out the backlash and measure the gap between pinion and end bracket. I used to do it at 6V on the BMC 2.2.
Have we seen a photo of the engine? With all the talk of a two hole starter I am beginning to wonder if it really is a 1.5. I have seen far more two hole starters on Perkins and only 1 on a very old 1.5.
I'm going to get the starter off again tomorrow. It's a real peach to take off despite being only two bolts. The oil filter (Bosch), has to come off first. Then once the bolts are loose the starter can be teased out from under the fuel cut off. There is only one way it will come out & it has to be rotated, pulled up slightly & then slid under the fuel cut off. The difficulty is the top bolt hole clearance. It just clears the fuel cut off but only after being lifted, rotated & slid. I will take some photos of everything once it's out of the way. I noticed some odd looking anomalies & also it could all use a good clean, so that's what I'll do. I'll also remove the alternator & give that a good clean & then I'll be able to get them tested. The engine is definitely a 1500. It's clearly marked on the block & on two plates. I might even buy some new gaskets & clean out the bilge. One for the sump pan & one for the rocker cover & get a new diesel filter & a new oil filter. I might as well go all out on it seeing as I won't be moving for a while. What can CRT say or do? I've broken down & there's nothing I can do about it. If they want to write me a snotty letter, so be it...
Whilst everything is out I can sort out the instrument panel. You'll love that. It's the last word on bodges, just a mess of missmatched wires, crimps & multi-coloured electrical tape - it's hideous & looks like several idiots have made a total pigs ear out of it over several years.
I'll find a local motor engineering place & just blow this months money on getting the alternator, solenoid & starter motor perfect if I can't get 'em working myself. Then all I'll need is a new battery & hopefully this nightmare will end. I have had enough of messing about. It wouldn't be so bad if I was back down in Brentford because at least I can get my car nearby but where I am is the middle of nowhere so I can't even get stuff to & fro. I had to use a wheelbarrow to get my batteries across the playing fields through the mud so I'm just wanting to be done with this problem.
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36 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Never seen one. Why did you try adjusting it? Are you sure it is still correctly adjusted?
If you short the 2 big terminals on the solenoid with a spanner does the motor run? The pinion will not engage but it will prove the the motor is not burnt out.
That's how this whole sorry saga started, Tracy. I thought I'd ran the battery flat about ten days ago, so I hooked up an old car battery I keep as a spare & bridged the terminals. It fired up & I forgot all about it but that was the last time it started properly. I even put it all down to the storm blowing off my solar panels. One was gone & the other I had to pull up from the water but that was obviously just excuse making on my part. I had a few old British cars years ago that used to give me similar problems but I would just buy the new bits because I was working & spares were cheap back then.
In this case, something has worked loose, snapped, fused... I don't know. I don't have the specialist knowledge for boats or even cars. My knowledge of engines, starting & charging systems & electrics is basically small bore, air cooled, 2 or 4 stroke motorcycles &/or gardening tools - lawnmowers, strimmers, leaf blowers etc. So no plumbing or water cooling, no alternators, no starter motors, solenoids, solar etc etc. Anything else & I'm pretty lost. Everything on my boat has been bodged or doesn't work. That's why I despise the whole crimp connection thing. The previous owner just connected everything randomly with a box of Wilko crimps & most things don't even have an earth, just a positive connection & the earth wire just dangles next to it. The boat was an abandoned project & now I know why. I can undo most of the bodges & connected all the things that were disconnected like the water, the calorifier the gas etc but I still don't understand the cooling system, how the engine & connections are earthed, the solar the inverter & so on.
Still it'll please some of the people on here who think I'm trash, that I'm having problems. Like the woman who told me to get a job & the fella I'd had no interaction with at all, who asked whether I borrow my mate's tyres to get my car through an MoT. I bet they're having a right old laugh now... I would never do that to someone when they're down on their luck. Right now this is beating me & I don't like it but I'll swot up on Tony's site & learn some stuff, so it'll hopefully get a bit easier. Trouble is, there's so much to go wrong & it all shares some degree of common connections like the ignition switch or the isolator switch & even though they are both bodged I don't know enough about what they do to fix them & if they are beyond repair, I can't afford to buy new ones, so I'm just stuck. Any attempt to fix will risk doing something that might make something else not work. It's a mess...
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8 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
One terminal getting hot suggests a bad connection on that terminal/crimp.
Is this the one I said looks bad?
Yes it was that one from the starter to the -neg battery post. I just don't understand how it won't even turn the starter motor. I'll get the meter on it tomoz. I'm vexed & I want a beer...
Thanks for your replies to my posts...👍
3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:What eccentric bolt? There is no such thing on an M45G starter motor.
Mine's the two bolt starter, Tracy. It has an eccentric bolt & lock nut which I think adjusts the distance the solenoid fires the copper core...
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18 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
I am surprised the solenoid is not machine gunning and if ONLY the negative cable is getting hot I don't understand why, unless it is thinner than the positive. Trouble is batteries are expensive and the last thing you would want is to buy one only to find out it is not that.
In the electrical notes on my website there are diagrams and instructions for testing the starter circuit with a voltmeter. It may be worth trying that. I think you said that you have cleaned both battery terminals to bright metal, post and clamp, and made sure they are tight.
I'll pick up a multimeter tomorrow, Tony. Both the neg & pos cables were getting hot at different times. The solenoid was machine gunning when I adjusted the eccentric bolt on the starter but I couldn't get the starter to spin at all. Thanks for your help though. I'm giving up for today 'cos I'm losing the light here & my battery is down to 12.3v. I guess heating up the cables has done most of the charge I put in earlier...
Thanks...👍
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Still getting smoke from the solenoid, the - neg battery cable to the starter is getting hot. I'm not winning this...
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
Yes, good, and so is the commutator as far as it is shown. The commutator end bush looks well lubricated as well.
I'm getting a loud clunk when I turn the key but no starter motor activity. I can turn the engine via the crank pulley with a large wrench, so it hasn't seized. I connected a jump lead from -neg to the block & from +pos to the solenoid earth but no movement from the starter. I'm starting to think you're right & the battery is toast...
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Brushes are good, no?
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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
There needs to be a very low resistance path for high currents (100s of amps) between the battery negative, engine and hull bond. If you have the motor off try to work some oil into the bushes at both ends, it may have to be cycle/3 in 1 oil because it is thinner.
That sounds more like a flat/faulty battery to me. I think we know the cranking voltage - zero. Probably no need to buy a meter as long as you get yours back eventually, but might need to buy a new battery. If the existing one is open cell how about a set of hydrometer readings, you must have a battery hydrometer left over from the motor cycles.
This is one time when I would suggest that you get the battery tested with the correct sized high rate discharge tester. You will probably have to take it to an autoelectrcian who deals with trucks and pay, but get it fully charged first.
No reason not to look at the other stuff as well.
Thank you. I shall head over there now...
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5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
As long as the battery negative is connected to the engine with a very thick "starter motor" sized cable I doubt it is an earthing fault.
Even less likely is a similar wire runs between the connection on the engine to the metal engine bed or the other way round.
The connection that smoked could be:
resistance in the crimp/solder between cable and eye terminal.
Eye terminal lose on the solenoid stud
Solenoid stud lose in the solenoid cap
Bad connection between the contact points in the solenod
Something causing excess current flow so low battery voltage, one brush not making proper contact, short inside motor, dry motor bearings, partially seized engine.
The problem is sorting out which is the more and least likely and then working out how to test it.
In view of your past posts I went for low voltage caused by discharged batteries and the easiest way to test for that is the cranking voltage but even that doe snot rule out a short in the motor so you also need to feel the motor to see if it has warmed up. After just enough cranking to get a reading it should still be cool.
Beware Screwfix meters rarely have a high current DC scale so check the specifications carefully.
Ok, thanks Tony. I'll turn the engine over with a spanner on the crank pulley first before I get a meter. Then I'll look at the condition of the earth strap from the engine to the chassis if I can find it. From there, I'll examine the motor brushes & bearings. If they look ok, I'll go buy the meter & tell you the cranking voltage but if I remember correctly just by looking at the volt meter on my instrument panel the voltage went right to zero & all the lights dimmed.
Do you think that would be the best way to go or should I buy the meter on the way over there & tell you the cranking voltage first?
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On 02/03/2022 at 13:16, Tracy D'arth said:
That cable lug looks to be very poorly. The cable has been soldered, and the solder allowed to run into the cable making it solid and prone to fracture. It also looks like thick copper wire rather than fine flexible cable.
Yeah, I think you may be onto something with that. I know the starter earths to the engine. I'll try eathing the starter body back to the battery before I do anything else. Got some spare jump leads...👍
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Good morning peeps. I'm back from the Welsh valleys so I'm going to head down to my boat in a bit & try & do what all of you have suggested. I shall buy a cheap multimeter from Screwfix on the way so you can have some proper results to analyse & as Mike rightly said, it will be better to do that than buy bits I might not need. I spoke to a mate who's clued up about electrical stuff & he also told me it's the only option to diagnose the problem with any success. He also suggested that my issue is likely to be an earthing fault, so I looked through a couple of the threads relating to how boats are grounded to avoid causing corrosion. It's made me think he might be right 'cos something is causing that solenoid to heat up & whilst I don't understand why, I just can't afford to get an electrician. So you guys are my only real hope of getting my engine to run...👍
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5 minutes ago, dmr said:
I solder everything, crimping is the work of the devil 😀 I've yet to see a well made soldered joint fail, but loads of crimped joints with strands progressively breaking loose and snapping.
Yay! So do I. It's just difficult on the bankside with an iron & a bit risky with a 'torch around batteries etc. I prefer to do mine at home & I'm a fan of old school bullet connectors that enable me to take entire parts away from the loom. Not de rigueur with some of the monolithic purist arch-fiends round here though... you may recieve a capitalised in bold reply stating that paragraph 86311/1X subsection 496378 of the BSS rules of engagement have been compromised & that you must prostrate yourself verily, upon the altar of flagellation by your peers! 'Whereupon thou shalt not fitte thine motorcycle headlamppe, for though it may be a most fortuitious occasion by virtue of much cheapnesse, thou wouldst invalidateth thine insurance!'
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52 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
If you are se;;ing the boat - why are you worried about insuring it or complying with surveyors recommendations ?
Another new boater who wants to be told how to get around surveyors recommendations to get insurance.
Is it a 'London thing' ?
Maybe you should get together with this guy and see if you can get one compliant boat between you.
He plans on hiding all the non-compliants stuff behind covers etc so the surveyor cannot see it.
Oh I see. Like that is it, Alan?
If you're going to use me to illustrate your pompous remarks, the very least you could do is not mislead others by misrepresenting what I said. I stated that I plan to fit an automotive fusebox - a sealed unit, with factory connections & a waterproof cover to keep out the elements. You didn't like that, did you. It went against your 'do not solder your connections... everything must be crimped as per regulations', propaganda & then you got rubbished by Tony, when he said 'That is simply untrue Alan. It is only true if the solder wicks down the cable beyond the insulation crimp.' You didn't like that either, did you? So because you got butthurt, you thought you'd have a pop at the next newbie & me specifically & London boaters in general. Well I ain't your whipping boy, Jim. So keep your opinions, or better still, tuck 'em where the sun don't shine.-
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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:
Do you borrow your mates tyres and fit to your car before you go for an MOT?
Yeah. How 'bout yourself? You trying to prime me, sweetheart?
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8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Well, it should not, as they used the 1.5D in the diesel version, the petrol one, by far and away the most common was a totally different inertia starter.
I am sure you have a three hole starter now you confirm the solenoid position.
Be aware there were two forms of the starter. The earlier ones has a band around the end of the starter body to access the brushes while later ones had a cover that fitted right over the end of the starter. I am not sure if the solenoids are interchangeable. I also think I have seen a few with the solenoid cap retained in place by swaging the metal housing and you would not be able to get inside one of those to clean up the contacts. However most solenoid caps on 1.5s are removable as long as you have a decent sized soldering iron.
Here are a couple of photos I took for reference. Sorry they don't have the bolt hole configuration.
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7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Note - in my last post I typed 3 hole flywheel, it is now corrected to 3 hole starter.
I have a feeling that the two hole starter was an inertia one but I might be getting mixed up with Perkins. I have only ever seen one BMC 1.5 with a two hole starter.
I think your solenoid sits at about 10 o'clock looking backwards and that makes it a later version. Earlier ones had the solenoid either at the top (12 o'clock) or hanging down at 6 o'clock where the solenoids tended to fill with liquid from the drip tray on badly looked after boats. The 12 o'clock position made it more difficult to get at one of the mounting bolts.
The weird shaped rubber pad is just a seal to keep dust etc. out of the pinion area.
You are correct as usual, Tony. It sits at ten o'clock. Regarding the list... yes, I did cross reference the Morris Oxford one & that looks totally different.
BMC 1500D rebuild including engine oil analysis.
in BMC
Posted
I have this arrangement on my BMC. Be careful as using the early type two hole starter motor means the oil filter has to be mounted at a slight angle due to the bowed out end cap. Both starter motors (two hole & three hole), fit the BMC 1500 D so you can swap 'em...