Bimbly1
-
Posts
301 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Bimbly1
-
-
That will be because of the volumes fuel stations sell relative to boatyard's. My local supermarket must have 30 pumps, yet you still have to queue for them. I can't ever recall having to queue for fuel in the boat.
Queues are not uncommon at Turner's Garage on the Shroppie at Wheaton Aston. Last week the base price was 56p/L and you are free to declare whatever you wish.
-
When we go through the longer tunnels we have a "system" ,,, and when we had friends on board last year they had us in fits of laughter... dogs locked inside, tunnel light checked before entering, hatch and back doors shut and all interior lights on so that the light illuminates the tunnel sides... Our visitor, when told to go in , stay inside and put all interior lights on , . did exactly as told but when I got in I didn't get any of the side light.... turned out he'd drawn the curtains to make it cozy!
-
The bus services are excellent, with stops near most moorings around Milton Keynes.
-
Just a thought, how old is the battery in the multy-meter? Flat meter batteries can give all sorts of odd readings.
Thanks Tony. On that thought, I bought and fitted new batteries. Still getting odd readings.
15 volts from back of alternator and at bank. Have cross checked using three different meters with same result but only have one clamp meter.
At bank; range of 1.14 to 2.16 amps on neg cable; -0.5 to 0.46 amps on pos cable
At alternator; 0.20 amps on neg cable; -0.14 amps on pos cable
at the alternator, when I read the pos cable, no matter which way round I clamped it, I got a negative reading.
Considering getting a sparks to look things over and/or taking the alternator off and letting Ken Cox & Co have a play with it.
-
Would you like some Birch twigs.
I usually have to pay extra for the birch treatment
Having fully charged the bank via the landline, when the engine was started, I got the following readings from the correct cables:
Engine: 1600 rpm
Alternator: 15v, +ve 0.53amps, -ve 0.99amps
Battery bank: 15v, +ve 0.68amps, -ve 0.85amps.
A marine engine electrician of some repute suggested that the voltage may well be just within an acceptable range, providing the amps are low.
I don't want to but it may be prudent to demount the alternator again and have it checked in greater detail to see if these results can be replicated on a bench test.
-
I may be reading this wrong and apologise if I have done so.
The cable being read, by the clamp ammeter, should go through the centre of the 'ring' of the meter, not clamped in the jaws.
Thanks for that thought. I confirm that the cable being read is in the centre of the clamp-meter and not in the jaws. However, I had a "light-bulb" moment this morning. I balanced the bank a few years ago, so the +ve & -ve feeds are at opposite ends. I have been reading the -ve from the wrong end. Shame and embarrassment
, should have checked more closely. I am a complete and utter cretinous numpty and must do better. I've put the charger on to top the bank up and tomorrow I'll check the alternator output again, with the bank fully charged, the clamp meter on the right cables, (one at a time), the right way round anda post the results.
-
The bits in red are not possible (Kirchoff's law). Do you have more than one wire on maybe the -ve?
Sounds like it needs a reg, some component or connection devaluing with heat. Thing is I just keep coming back to the matching readings from a known good system. I would like to get a look at this purely for academic interest
Thanks for that. I agree with Loafer's comment and need to get this sorted before a battery redistributes itself around the engine 'ole.
I caught more than one wire in the clamp on the neg but unclamped it. Maybe I didn't reset the meter properly. I'll try again tomorrow and post the results.
Should the readings from positive & negative be the same, regardless of whether taken from the back of the alternator or the battery bank?
-
Well if I am reading them correctly there is something a bit odd in that irrespective of the alternator the current flowing (Amps) in the positive and negative cables should be the same. This could well be down to interference with the clamp by fields from adjacent cables or even the alternator itself. However the later would not explain the differences at the battery readings.
Edited to add: it might even be instructive to let the battery discharge some what and then see what happens rather that take readings when the alternator regulator may well be hunting because of fully charged batteries.
I have returned from an enforced absence, (not at HM pleasure, honest) and have now let the domestic bank discharge a bit.
Situation is as follows:
Batts left off shoreline charge for 3 days. Reading 12.9v. Discharged to 12.6v.
Engine run @ 1600rpm
Alternator readings
14.4v; 4 amp on +ve lead, 0.2 amp on -ve lead.
Bank readings
14.4v, 1.8 amp on +ve, 1.0 amp in -ve.
After six hours cruising:
Engine rpm 1000
Alternator readings
15.2v
0.5 amp +ve, 0.2 amp -ve
Bank readings
15.2v
0.8 amp +ve, 0.25 amp -ve.
I suspect that this may be a problem with something in the alternator, not picked up on the automotive bench test last October.
Any other thoughts please?
-
Can only speak as I find.
Got this.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007JPOX8O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Put on roof. Tuned set.
Got 44 freeview channels & 23 radio.
Am in the fields near Pewsey wharf k&a
Not the best reception area even with a good aerial.
Well pleased.
Cheap too.
Agreed. Pleased with mine overall. Some blind spots, often in unexpected locations but sure beats trying to line a dish up through trees, hedges, building etc.
-
If you go for a commercial dehumidifier, made certain that it will fit through the doorway. I nearly got caught this way a couple of years ago. Was only when I saw the size of an industrial strength one that I realised!
-
Road Traffic Act 1988 S192(1) defines road as "any highway and any other road to which the public has access and includes bridges over which a road passes."
The Highway Code says that it is important to note that references to "road" generally include footpaths, bridleways and cycle tracks, and many roadways and driveways on private land, including many car parks.
No mention of waterways or boats. So the definitive answer to the OOP is no, the RTA does not cover waterways.
-
A puff brush is that PC
Yes, so long as it isn't a Brazilian puff brush.............
-
I had a hydraulic BT. I never used it when going ahead because it adds nothing to the turning effect of the tiller & prop. The controls were adjacent to the throttle and I only used it when reversing, ('cos it made keeping in a straight line and cornering very easy). A couple of years ago the tube leaked, so I had the ends capped. Haven't missed it.
-
Looks like the alts mentioned in this topic, Hitachi or some Korean make?
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69915
Anyway 0.5A at 15V into 4 batts doesn't sound toooo bad, but probably worth keeping an eye on.
cheers, Pete.
~smpt~
Thanks Pete, I'll be looking further when I return.
Bob.
-
Edited to add: it might even be instructive to let the battery discharge some what and then see what happens rather that take readings when the alternator regulator may well be hunting because of fully charged batteries.
TBH though, given fully charged batteries and their expected low current draw, the inaccuracies of a clamp-on meter will minimise any useful info from these readings. So yes agree that more meaningful higher readings will be gained with part discharged batteries as per your edit.
Thanks for your thoughts and everyones input. I'm away for the next six weeks but will run the bank down a bit on my return and post the results again then.
Bob.
-
The elusive, lesser spotted Ampeater is at work.
Yes, a Clamped Ampeater, which I am told can measure waterflow too
-
Pics as requested.
If it is the same as the 110A alternator on my 2005 Barrus Shire 45 it is a Prestolite 35215315. Mine shows the same symptoms as the OP has reported.
This particular alternator is now obsolete and I haven't been able to identify a direct replacement.
I couldn't find any make/model/part no etc either on it or in the Barrus manual.
Meter readings as follows;
Alternator Battery
1300 revs 14.6volts 14.6volts
900 revs 15.0volts 15.0volts
1600 revs 14.6volts 14.6volts
Amps at Alternator: + cable -ve cable
1300 revs 0.62A 0.12A
900 revs 0.48A 0.26A
1600 revs 1.61A 2.42A
Amps at Battery
1300 revs 1.4A 0.6A
900 revs 1.2A 2.45A
1600 revs 5.8A 1.2A
Battery bank fully charged on landline prior to disconnecting to conduct this test.
I hope that the presentation is clear enough. I have no idea of what the figures might mean!
Bob
-
Oooer! I know I sound like a broken record but can I either have photos of the alternator or a manufacturers part number please? I want to know what sort of machine we're dealing with and what sort of regulator set up,(+ or-, battery or machine sensed etc).
I don't know about the regulator set up but I will take a couple of pics if I can't find the part no.
-
I think sometimes too much information is a bad thing. If I didn't know how to use a multi-meter and enjoy getting down into the engine bay I would never have known and got concerned about it!
Having said that I now ignore it, if you do by any chance identify anything, please let me know.
Richard
Thanks for that info Richard. I'll let you know if I find anything.
Bob.
An alternator charging batteries is not 'intelligent' as your charger is.
The alternator only has one stage whereas the charger will have three. (bulk, absorption and float)
I see, I thought that it was due to having other stuff like the fridge on, so the bank was never fully charged; i.e. some going in but a little going out, if you see what I mean!
-
What sort of current do you see at 15V? Are the batts sealed ones?
cheers, Pete.
~smpt~
Yes Pete, sealed. They have remained cool to the touch after running for 2 - 3 hours.
-
Where to start?... but I'll go for "alternators"!
Anyway, it is a theory but not something I've heard of before with electronic regulation. Maybe ours doesn't do it because it never spins that slowly. Perhaps the OP can tell us if the setup has always done this, or just started doing it?
It started recently. Earlier this year it was charging at 13.8, rising over a couple of hours to 14.2volts, although the bank performed perfectly on this regimen.
The boat and engine installation is 8 years old and charging has previously been at 14.6-8 volts.
The bank is fully charged via land-line. I turn the selectors to off, disconnect the line and start the engine. I would expect the higher voltage of 14.6-8 but it doesn't drop to 13.6volts as the land-line charger does.
-
It might also be interesting to try same with some modest load on - a few lights. Presumably (from you OP) you have a different alternator for the engine battery with no split charge devices?
Yes, a separate 50A alternator for the engine batt. I'll run a few more checks in the morning.
-
Thanks for your responses.
In the OP's case it would seem something is wrong somewhere. Is the measuring equipment faulty? eg a mechanical meter that is responding to changing engine vibration. Is the connection between alternator and batteries sound? When the alternator is putting out 15v at idle, what is the battery voltage? Obviously it should be essentially the same, but this seems highly unlikely.
Analogue meter reading from the bank, digital clamp from the alternator studs. Both give the same readings. Bank connections checked and sound.
Would be interesting to see the voltage at batteries. If its the same or very close then as voltage rises so will charge current. Sounds like abnormal regulator behaviour given the significant range, but interested in other views.
Can I assume an external regulator/booster isn't fitted?
Seems to be the same at alternator and bank. No external regulator/booster.
I'll run some further checks in the morning, (it is hissing down at the moment), and post the results.
Bob.
-
Having previously found my Barrus 110 amp domestic alternator consistently charging at 15 volts, as measured from rear of alternator, I removed it and had it bench tested. Nothing untoward was found.
I reinstalled it, separated and cleaned all connections, near and remote and checked the condition of all crimps. Having fully charged the battery bank, (4x 110Ah batts, new in June this year), I fired the engine up.
Initial output was 14.7volts, dropping within a few minutes to 14.6volts and remained so for an hour at 1200 revs.
When I drop the engine speed to tickover, 900 revs, the charge rate rose to 15volts, dropping to 14.6volts when I increased the speed to 1200 revs and higher.
I expected either no change in charging rate or a slight drop at tickover. Is this normal or is there something not right?
Anyone got any constructive thoughts please?
Bob.
, should have checked more closely. I am a complete and utter cretinous numpty and must do better. 
Age gets the best of us.
in General Boating
Posted
Sorry that your time has come to leave the cut.
PLenty of memories to keep you warm.
Best wishes to you both.