ThePiglet
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Posts posted by ThePiglet
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12 minutes ago, David Mack said:
So that confirms it is an SR2, anticlockwise rotation and the 4610th engine built in 1967.
A rare one then ?
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Thanks Bizzard,
I went back to the engine a few days ago and found that it has a compression problem on the cylinder closest to the output shaft. When I started it again, the cylinder wasn't getting hot at all, I can also turn the engine over with the 'good' cylinder decompression on, though not easily.
It has aluminium push rods, and I measured the clearances at about 0.35mm cold. Bopping the valves didn't make any difference.
With the fuel pump window off (which had sellotape on a homemade cork gasket!?), it sounded like the compression was escaping through the crankcase, I've taken off the heads and found a right mess in the cooling tins, so no wonder it was overheating.
I can't see any scoring in the cylinder bore, I'll see if the valves leak fluid tonight, but it's looking like I might have to take the piston out.
I did discover that the cap that screws onto the top of the injector was loose on the affected cylinder, and there was fuel between the cap and the large slotted top.
It then started raining, and since I'm doing this in the middle of some woods, I left it at that for now.
Serial number for those playing along, is 4610SR2Z17, 14.5HP, 2200RPM.
The puddle of fuel in the good cylinder is I think from where I was turning it over a bit.
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Ah, OK, cheers.
The manuals for the SR2 say 5.4L or 9.5 pints too, so I'll adjust the dipstick to centre on that volume.
I'll try to get the paint off the plate to confirm the model. -
Hi All,
I've just bought a new trencher which came with the Lister pictured below. The plate has been painted over, but I think it is an ST2.
The oil was dark, but in the middle of the dipstick, and I ran it for an hour or so the other day when it started to lose power. I put it to idle and it stalled. It's aircooled, but there was a bubbling noise coming from the crank case ?
I've drained the oil from it and got about 10 litres. It seems thin, so I'm suspecting it has been diluted with diesel from the internal pipes somewhere. That's OK, I'll find that, but my concern is the dipstick was still reading in the middle of the dipstick. I've put 5L in (didn't have a jug to measure the 400ml extra yet) and nothing is showing yet at all.
Is 9.5 pints (5.4L) correct for this engine, and if it is, given the dipstick is a bit rudimentry, should I just 're-calibrate' the dip-stick?
Oil also seems to be leaking out of the rocker covers, maybe time for new gaskets.
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Edit: Waste of time.
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It would be interesting to know what sort of data usage the folks had who have had their unlimited Tethering removed. I wonder if Three are going after the highest data users first.
Three have completely scrapped unlimited tethering packages.
As people come to the end of their unlimited tethering contracts, they are being moved on to other plans. Those whose contract had already expired (such as myself) were moved at the start of Feb.
is it your opinion that everybody who wants to should be able to achieve such high data usage on the mobile networks or are you just taking the p?
Yes, anyone that buys a service offering something is entitled to receive that something. As a consumer, do you not think that is fair? (You'd think there would even be a law about it)
in my opinion unlimited should come with some sense of responsibility. I am by no means a light user but I would expect to pay (a lot) extra if I was bringing in that kind of bandwidth.
Three crunched the numbers and came up with an unlimited plan for £xyz. They would have known to expect a range of customer usage types, some probably never used more than 10MB a month, some probably use "Only 1,000GB a month".
Responsibility on whose part? The party offering the service, the consumer, or both? As the consumer, I'm in no position to judge Three's capability to provision the service. If Three sell it as unlimited, should I be expected to manage my usage? How am I supposed to know how much is too much?
If you lose your unlimited data, it's because Three have formulated the wrong products at the wrong price, not "because of the selfish actions of a relative few".
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What stuff are you downloading with nbzMobile to need all that bandwidth?
TV, It's easier and more reliable to download shows overnight that stream from iPlayer / 5 / ITV / 4OD / Netflix in the evening.
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What are you using all that data for, and what mobile app have you moved it to?
The best deal they would offer me was £14 per month for AYCE data with 4Gb tethering. How did you get it for £8 per month?
iPlayer video & radio, Netflix but mostly nzbMobile (scheduled between 00:00 ad 06:00 as the battery will be on charge and not a strain on the network).
The package is £18, but I've had a monthly '£10 loyal customer discount' for the last 18 months or more which continues on.
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Three moved me off The One Plan (was using over 200GB a month tethering) at the start of this month onto a Sim Only plan with 4GB Tethering and unlimited handset data.
From what was about £15/month I now only pay £8/month and so far, none of the data I've used through tethering (about 2.5GB) has been deducted from my personal hotspot allowance
.My heavy data usage has shifted from my PC to a mobile app, so I've still used over 170GB this month and remained within the terms of the package, but Three now get paid less for delivering the same amount of data!
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How did you find the logistics of dealing with methanol? Not sure if its practical for living aboard and very extensive cruising? Given you can get 512W of solar for < 1000 nowadays I'm not sure if they are worth it.
The MaxPower (now SFC) units use a custom connector between the SFC methanol bottles and the hose. The cap you screw onto the bottle contains a plunger which opens up a spring loaded stopper in the bottle. The bottle has two pipes inside, one is the fuel pickup, the other is a breather to the outside which is attached to a float internally, to prevent spillage.
This does mean that you have to use SFC methanol bottles, which are expensive, but after mine went outside it's warranty I used 99.95% methanol from ebay which was less than a quarter of the price and it ran just as well. A guy I know does plastic welding and we made an adaptor from one of the old SFC bottles and a standard cap which screws onto a standard bottle, you need not touch or pour the stuff.
Life is full of dangerous substances and situations, I'm happy with the way I store my fuel - I can't accidentally drink it, I have plenty of ventilation for the negligible amount of vapour and should my boat & it catch fire, I have a smoke alarm & the fuel is not blocking my exit. If the boat sinks, the bottle won't readily leak, if it does split, 10L of methanol is going to dilute pretty quickly, fishy casualties would be minimal.
My cabin is 16ft long, I don't have room for 512w of solar! I have 100w already - that and the hatch take up half the roof
Wasn't there an episode of Doc Martin where the cure for methanol poisoning was to drink Vodka?
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I had a secondhand EFOY 1200, basically the same unit as this but 'non marine' (the insurance co. were happy with it though). It was excellent, but the power output dropped off to less than 1A after it got to just over 6,000 hours on the clock. I keep meaning to send it back to Germany for a service and have been surviving on solar all summer.
Very quiet units, they automatically top the batteries up when they drop to about 12.2v. Almost certainly more expensive than a generator, but the convenience is absolutely worth it.
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I grouted the shower cubicle in my bathroom with bathroom silicone sealant. Ultimate waterproofing and flexible
I've done the same using 'White for life'. Mine is a 3ft x 6ft wetroom covered floor and wall to ceiling entirely with 20mm tiles... thousands of them, silicone squeezed between each one and finished off by hand. Each tile is fixed to the 18mm WBP backing with a blob of 'Wet grab'.
It's not quite finished yet, ongoing 6 month so far
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Anyone any pictures of there 30ft springers to give me some ideas about good layout, i really think mine needs gutting and new floor down, start from scratch
I'm on a 27 foot v bottom SPringer which I took pretty well back to bare metal top to bottom inside, including a new floor.
Pictures are on my blog, link below.
Depending on the layout of your water filler, the hose may have put more water in than the overflow could handle.
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I dunno about the faults, but wouldn't it be more efficent to run these devices from the 12v supply? Think of all the power you're losing taking 12v to 240v then back to 12v (or 9v) again!
Maplin do some 12v to 12v/9v adaptors if the appliances are sensitive.
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Also, an Avoncliff boat was broken into mid last week. Possibly for shelter as to my understanding, nothing was taken.
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For some reason we are getting serious fluctuations on the Bath-Bradford pound of the K and A at present, and no one seems to know why.
It started just after the Bradford-on-Avon lock re-opened. I assumed it was because that lock now leaked less than the Bath top lock did and that the pound was slowly draining out via Bath lock
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I thought there were only two types:
1. Day-trippers complete with skull & crossbone flags, eye patches, plastic swords
2. Normal people
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LOL, time it wrong and you'll be smeared over the top of your boat like jam on bread
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I don't think that steam engine has a FFD
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I do my washing once a week in my Candy Aquamatic 1000T (3.5Kg jobbie). £99 secondhand from eBay.
Bung it on the 32 minute wash each Saturday morning, run the long spin twice. Total time = 1 hour.
Hang clothes up inside, stoke up the stove, leave overnight, all washing dry. DONE.
Plus I can watch the TV & charge my laptop/shaver/etc... whilst I run the generator.
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Our rates are up by 2.5% on last years prices which is the VAT increase.
No, that's more than accounted for by the VAT increase. Just VAT would be an inc VAT price about 2.1% greater than last year.
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There is no rocker (as I understand them). The pushrod acts directly on the base of the valve stem (but there is this shim between the two for adjustment).
I have removed the valve and shim and without teh shim, the valve drops all the way down. This and having checked with a straight edge leads me to believe it is not bent.
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Thanks for the replies.
I have a copy of the owners manual, but it's very basic. You have to disassemble A LOT to get at this cover, so it's probably not something they consider user-serviceable.
I think you're right, it is shimmed, what I described as 'cups'. Point taken about grinding the stem, I'll see if a local motor factors or lawnmower spares shop carries any, if not then there seem to be plenty around online (once you know what you're looking for!).
The valve is not bent, has not struck the head, there is a uniform buildup of carbon around the rim of the seat and a great deal in the head itself. It's a very old generator so I think maybe the gap has simply worn down through use.
Cheers.
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Lister ST2?
in Lister
Posted
Thanks all,
I did measure the cylinders, but to be honest, I didn't have the confidence or knowledge in diagnosing it properly. I bought a couple of new cylinder and piston sets and plopped those in.
The injector pump on the problem cylinder would also pump with no injector connected, but not build pressure to fire the injector when connected. The replacement was a Bryce (original was a Cav) and the marks on the shafts (to sync them) don't seem to match distances between the two brands. Any advice on how to set them up the same? I was thinking to measure the speed with each decompressor down and get them to match?
The fuel lift pump stopped working too, one of the springs behind a valve just decided not to spring anymore, so replaced that.
It's all back together, just waiting on a second set of intake/exhaust gaskets to attach the manifolds. I have managed to loose one of the manifold studs and two of the nuts (brass).
Does anyone know where I can get them or what the thread for them is?
I pay, or have two old cylinders/pistons if you want to swap 😂