Big COL
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Posts posted by Big COL
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Yes, and if your sink isn't gravilty drained Smelly, can you just not use a plug?
I only use a gulper for my shower and I've never noticed the blowback.
I've used my gulper for nearly 4 years without a filter and it's still fine.
Hi blackrose
This does depend upon the length of hair and the frequency of losing it
I have short hair and although it's departing at a scary rate it holds no threat to any pump valves. Joy on the other hand has long hair and although not showing any signs of balding
is capable of blocking both shower waste at home, and the filter for the shower on the boat. -
I've finally fitted a Whale Gulper 220 as a shower pump... No more cleaning filters, YAY!
It does seem to blow back quite ferociously, and can blow the, admittedly quite loose fitting, plug out of the bath or sink. Is this normal or have I missed something?
(Quick check) There's nothing left in the box apart from the invoice and an un-needed inline fuse holder
Hi Smelly
Very good pump, but I would advise you to fit a filter on the inlet. I know Whale say "no filter needed", but they also say virtually"Non Choke Valves" which implies something else.
From experience the worst thing in waste pipes is human hair mixed with soap, it turns into a sticky mess and the hair catches on anything obstructing the pipe ie pump valves. Which could be the cause of a blowback, an obstruction just holding the valve open enough to allow it to partially blowback, but the valve not open enough to stop it from pumping.
It's easier to clean out a filter than strip down a pump, the problem with filters is they generally aren't big enough you need to fit the largest one you can find for a 19mm pipe.
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I'm not sure, what's your wife's name?
Nudge nudge, know what I mean sport, know what I mean?
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Mechanical fuel pump -lots of diesel and it`s open as my fire is fed from same tank and it was working all night .
Hi finnie
Is it a manual stop cable? Has the stop lever on the pump fully returned back to the start position?
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That sounds pretty good to me, as leaving a diesel heater on all week say an Eberspacher Hydronc D5 will use around 10 litres per day or about £60 per week. Whereas the last 13kg Calor gas I bought 2 weeks ago was £21. I see that the 9000 has an output of 5500-7500btu, how does that compare with the 5Kwh of the Eber. I don't know what the calculation is to convert.
Roger
Roger
Very roughly 3500 BTU = 1kw The true figure is 3400 and something not enough that you would notice the difference in 1kw of heat.
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I tell you what, if i were in there, I would soon kick some arse.
Chris you would only lose your foot, right up to ankle in deep dodo
Problem is there is no singular driving force, no visionary that you get with private companies.
These jokers are all committee members. It is well known that you can not govern by committee.
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Can anyone recommend a pair of decent gloves for a spot of winter boating? Our hands frooooooooze yesterday. Oh and so did our feet!
Hi
Ski gloves, warm and waterproof
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Well that is pretty straightforward then. As my boat was bought from NBC, I can't use my £2.5k Eberspacher central heating system that was fitted, because it was not suitable as a 24/7 heater or for the fuel available, so it eventually rolled over and died. My stove that ran continuously for 6 months last Winter and has already been continuously alight for the last 5 weeks, should be allowed to go out, as it may kill me if if has not been installed to a presently non existent standard, which will be determined by a stove fitting company! Its reassuring to know that I will be much safer living in a cold damp sub zero environment for the rest of the Winter. I'd also better not light the gas stove in case my triple layer Winter woolies don't have the required fire resistng label. I think I'll just kill myself now as I am too incompetent to handle the risks in living.
Roger
Hi Roger
Before you go and kill yourself, if you google factors relating to chimney draft. It throws up numerous things which could open a huge can of worms in respect to stoves on boats.
Available air, competition for available air, flue temp internal and external, and a host of other factors affecting the draft of a chimney.
Surely if a stove has a certain level of draft say to remove the smoke from a smoke pellet when the stove is cold then that should be the min level required, as the efficiency should increase as the flue (chimney) gases increase in temp.
As others have said it's going to be another nanny state / anti litigation, not my fault Jack,rule.
Well ok if it has to be so be it, the regs already exist for commercial and domestic gas boilers re flue draft. It should not be that difficult to transpose those regs in accordance with levels appropriate for solid fuel stoves.
Some of the oil stove manufacturers already state advisory figures for flue drafts,these are usually ignored as to obtain them you would need a 6' chimney outside the boat. which brings us full circle to what Gary is pointing out.
Commercial builders can not afford to ignore figures advisory or otherwise.
PS
Smiley is for anti litigation for the following suggestionRoger if you are going to kill yourself why not do it in comfort and use your solid fuel stove.
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looks like santa monica airlines (apolloduck) has barred me! strange? can you bar an IP address from your site?
Just used anonymous IP addy and got straight on! hey first time I've been barred
Hello you old tart
Yes I can get apolloduck, so you must be barred. Just what have you gone and done now? you upset them once before, are you intending making a career out of this
Hello mate I hope you are ok and life is getting better, you still owe me a pint by the way
never known anyone to move halfway up the country just because it was their round Hope all is well with you must get together for a beer.
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Ok, here does
The toilet has started to gurgle, it started a few days ago so as it was full I did a pump out. The toilet won't empty out to the outside world but when empting the toilet was emptied too.
Now toilet still wont empty to outside but when going to holding tank, goes there and then the water comes back and gurgles, ie bubles.
Its a SFA Sanimarin - Lee Sanitation toilet (according to the boat manual!)
Any ideas?
Hi
If the contents of the toilet bowl disappear then slowly reappear then you have something stuck to the non return flap on the flap valve. If you flush with some hot soapy water, it may just clear whats stuck to the flap. You may have to repeat this two or three times.
A useful tip is that every time you have a pump out is to flush through with hot soapy water at the same time as you are pumping out.
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Will tell you once I've done mine!
The bearings look a fairly standard ball & thrust type so I'm hopeful! Just try not to break anything as you dismantle as after my chat with Peter Thompson it would appear other parts are like rocking horse sh*t
Sometimes it can be fun being the custodian of vintage machinery!!....all those people on the towpath who say "that sounds nice" dont get to see this bit!!
Cheers
Gareth
Hi just adding to my data base.
When you guys replace bearings in these vintage boxes, what grade bearings do you use B or C?
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After fitting a number of Hurricane Heaters manufactured by International Thermal Research without problems we now seem to be having problem with the H2 versions.
It seems that these new units are very sensitive about the voltage required to start up, now it's common knowledge that all heaters of this nature are fairly voltage dependent but it seems the newer Hurricane's are not happy at anything even slightly bellow 12v so if you have a boat that is largely AC electrically based this can cause problems because the domestic battery bank being continually under load from the inverter will tend to hover around the 12v mark unfortunately this causes the Hurricane heater to detect under voltage and shut down.
So at the moment it looks like we are going to have to fit AC power supplies to three existing installations and yet again look for a more suitable marine unit.
It seems that the marine heating market is very much a game of if it works it works, if it doesn't it's not our problem!
Hi Gary
I am still using the Hurricane, 5yrs and trouble free apart from one self induced problem. I still believe these heaters will just about burn anything except water
If the mark2 version has a voltage problem Why not e-mail I.T.R. to see if the MK2 can be dummed down to MK1 spec. You may find it cheaper than fitting extra voltage controls.
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Hi Keith, yes, I wondered about that, although from what I've seen of them recently Halfrauds are fine for sat navs and boy racer alloys, but are unlikely to see heater hose, even from a roll.
Ringing around a few motoring outlets might produce a 1/2" hose with a pre-formed 90degree bend, I suppose.
I came to the conclusion looking at pictures earlier in the thread that this might help - thanks for suggesting it!
Alan
If you are convinced that what you have in your block is 3/8'' BSP then use a male-female elbow, or use two elbows put together, and your hose will then hang straight down.
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I'm tempted to say into the rear bilge, whilst using the pump to shift it overboard. I can't see why not.
Alan
Dump it overboard through a skin fitting. It will be at 3bar pressure, why would you want to dump it first then pump it overboard?
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Yes, for definite - you can see it down the connector, and it's not possible to push something down.
I've not dismantled, but it seems to be a small part sandwiched in between the connector and the 4-way fitting.
As above.
The Surecal install instructions don't mention it's presence, but one of their brochure's does.
Ah, that may suffice.
I wasn't sure if you could force them to be open - thank's for that!
Alan
Its not a case of forcing them open, you should operate the the prv valve manually as routine maintenance to stop them from scaling up. When you turn the red knob the valve will open and close as it is spring loaded, if you hold the knob at the 1/2 turn stage this should hold the valve in its open position.
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Sorry, not sure ?
Possibly suggesting it should never get that cold inside the boat ?
I can't see that insulation helps over time, because whilst it will slow the cooling down, equally it will hold cold in as the outside gets warmer.
With enough persistent cold I'd have thought the contents could freeze eventually.
If so, is it not then just like a very large bore copper pipe ?
Copper pipes burst when frozen with water in ?
Go on, what have I missed!
Alan
The insulation should be enough to protect the tank, If you do feel the need to drain down the calorifier then you could do so by holding the red knob on the prv so its just on its cam, at this point water will drain out through the prv.
As for water left in the pipes through the boat all you can do is to leave open all taps to allow for ice expansion.
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The earlier version of the Hep has a metal ring, the same as the polyplumb.
Wonderdust
Didn't know that. The university of life, you never stop learning
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Does the removal tool take of the old metal grab rings or just the new type?
Wonderdust
The removal tool works with Hep20 fittings with the green insert. I was not aware that Hep20 had fittings with a metal grab ring, Polyplumb fittings have a metal grab ring, thats all I have ever used.
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Ah well,
The Hep2O order has gone off to BES now
I'll let you know how many rings I end up having to remove, (other than on existing, which is unavoidable anyway....)
Alan
Hep2o fittings can be removed without cutting off the gripper, you can buy a fitting removal tool which allows you to remove the fittings and then reuse them.
Never used one myself as I have always used Polyplumb Fittings, which you do have to cut the gripping ring off to remove any fittings. The advantage with polyplumb is you can buy the gripper rings, O rings, plastic washers, separately. Personal experience, not the easiest to use but the best for not having leaks .
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Hi,
Does anyone out there have the wiring diagram for the above Calor Gas Hob? I have had to change ours (the old one was leaking gas from the taps) and the nearly new one has the additional luxury of having ignitors, (which of course, must be wired in!).
Rob
Rob
From the installation manual for a vanette GG2000/2
1 Connect (+) from your 12v supply to the free connection tab on the hob ignition switch.
2 Connect (-) From your 12v supply to the free connection tab on the generator.
3 Position generator as far away from the appliance (and any other sources of heat) excessive temperatures may impair the operation of the generator.
Hope this helps.
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Hi Bones
I now know why you wanted that 6'x4' ceiling mirror
, When would you like me to deliver it? Also do you require it to be fitted and focused.
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Yes,
But this is a 13 year old instantaneous heater rated at 8.7KW, not a modern combi rated at 24 KW
It is only designed to give 25 degrees rise at 5 litres per minute, so unrealistic to expect more than that. If I could get that reliably it's more than adequate for our needs.
As already reported I have given it my best crack at descaling, but there really was no evidence that it had any significant amount of scale.
I'm not sure what the BSS attitude is to using acetylene, (or acetalyne if that's not the same thing), as an alternative to propane, but I think I'll pass on that one anyway, as most boatyards don't stock it, I think.
Hi Alan
Carbide lamps run on acetylene, modern things these didn't you know
All you need is some calcium carbide, water and away you go used prior to the Davy lamp, the latest thing in narrowboats. A steel tube full of acetylene, lovely, thats the way to go. -
Hia Guys
Ive been having huge problems for years with condensation forming on the wooden paneling at the side of the matress, the underneeth and 'foot' end where the wet area/engine compartment is.
we live on a 36 trad with a solid boxed wooden 'frame' (devan type thing with storage underneeth) with a sprung matress on top of the 'frame'. i have put towels down the corners and on the base to soak up the condensation but with a baby on the way, having 6 soggy towls spead over the boat isnt convenient (or possibly healthy)
ive enased the matress in a waterproof plastic sheet last only to find last night that its condensed INSIDE the plastic sheet
in other words, the plastic sheet has stopped the water from between the wall and bed soaking into the matress, but warm air from us lying on top has condensed on the other side (the inside of the sheet where it contacts the matress) like the kitchen window when boling a pan of water.
im really stressed and at the end of my teather as to know what to do
please help guys
Scottessery
Seen this many times twice on new builds. The way we solved it was to run a heating loop through the whole of the damp area, which in one case was the complete length of the boat. The heating loop consisted 22mm plastic pipe screwed to the floor down and back again. It only needs a few degrees of warm air to stop the condensation.
This is assuming that you have some form of central heating on board. If not you neeed to find a way to get some warm air moving through there.
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Sorry for yet another question. Will any type do?
I've been quoted around £85 for a 12v valve and this seems a bit excessive as I may need two.
Ray
Try a google search for 12volt water solenoid valves. A lot of washing machines and dishwashers have 12v water inlet valves on them, a visit to the local tip or scrap yard may be worthwhile. You should be able to source a new one for around £20.
Summit of Desire.
in General Boating
Posted
I'm a Celebrity ( Bones) get her out of here