Big COL
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Posts posted by Big COL
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The D61B and 51B only come with a straight conventional flue. One of the problem with the Morco is it fitted with a down draft diverter overheat stat that has a tendency to drop the pilot out when fitted with too short a flue, this stat can be bypassed quite easily though, if conditions dictate its safe to do so.
Which is probably why Morco state that the D61b, D61e are not suitable for use in tourers or any other mobile vehicles.
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A question you all must have corrected in the past, I've now stopped correcting it and have this reply, the look on peoples faces is amusing
Question
Where did you get your long boat from? I stole it from a Viking.
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Hi,
.
We actually plan to take lessons as never driven a boat before and would hate to scratch someone's paint job.
Hi
Boating is a contact sport
Provided it's kept to below the gunnels. Still doing the right thing though by taking lessons, enjoy your new boating life. -
Nothing at all wrong with that.
Gibbo
I have always had an issue with feeding positive and negative bus bars directly off the battery bank/ isolator sw without passing through a fuse. I have always used either an 80amp or 100amp fuse, depending on the total load the panel is capable of carrying.
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Vertical and horizontal coliflowers will retain the same heat if no water is drawn off, however the vertical will retain more heat than the horizontal if some of the water is drawn as the cold water has less surface area to mix with the hot. According to Graham Booth anyway.
Not sure I agree with with all of that, however there are other issues to take into consideration. Depending on the design of the hot water plumbing there can be serious heat losses through thermal cycling if the design and installation is not correct.
Also are all calorifiers insulated exactly the same? a varying thickness of insulation coupled with the differing materials of insulation will make a considerable difference.
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I have a vertical cauliflower that sits above the water line. It is 20 years old and well lagged. It takes about 40minutes to get the temperature of its metal casing to 33degrees. The water is still hot in the morning, the evening and warm the following morning. If I get it up to 40degrees it stays hot for a couple of days. However, in winter it stays hot for about 24hours.
How long does cauliflower cheese stay hot for
Colin
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What's the difference between tar and bitumen? I thought they were the same.
Bitumen is a byproduct from the distillation of crude oil,
Tar is a byproduct from coal, plentiful and at giveaway prices when we were producing coal gas.
Next question will be what's coal gas
Big Col
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edited due to too much wine and a beating from SWMBO !
Chris
Can one have too much wine? open for discussion. Beatings from SWMBO two a penny
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Been using them for ages mate, and how much work have they saved me ........
Also bit like doing the black magic bit ..........
Chris
Kept it quiet though
It's bloody obvious, AFTER someone comes up with a simple test kit like this.Must find out where I can buy some hindsight.
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Been off line for some time. I was wondering what price for live a board moorings in a marina one would expect to pay?. Would electricity be included?
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The covered Finrads seem to cost a fortune, from this supplier anyway.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...sa%3DN%26um%3D1
They look like Claytons fin rads. Go direct, Claytons are in coventry their finrads are rated at 500w per meter. If you send them a drawing of the boat they will calculate your heat requirement and position them for you.
I have these on a 70'boat running off a hurricane heater there is not one cold spot in the boat.
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Hi guys need some help, I've had a serious fire in a wiring loom on my beta 43. Not to bore you too much with the details none of which were of my doing, I hasten to add.
However a dead short to earth occured in the main loom on a cable/cables, one starting at battery positive and the other from domestic alternator positive. They pass through the main loom, terminate at the engine panel in 2 connectors - one 11spade multi block and one 2wire conector, this 2 wire connector is the one that has caused the problem it's part of the beta alternator controller circuit and does not apear to be fused.
All the gauges survived but the loom looks to be totaled, the complete loom comes in three pieces all of which I am going to need. I have a call into Beta and am awaiting a price from them.
In the meantime I could do with an alternative Any suggestions?
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Thanks Roger,
Any additional water traps / filters / separators / agglomorators sadly still remain on my "to do" list, so currently the only thing between the tank and the engine is the standard engine mounted fuel filter.
I do intend to swap that out, and then break in to it, to see what nasties it contains.
I can see that fuel is apparently, drawn off my tank some distance from the bottom, but can't be sure the pipe doesn't extend downwards inside, and end up closer to the bottom than outside appearances might imply.
Hi Alan
If you suspect that your tank is contaminating your diesel, IE the water level in the bottom of your tank is getting close to the dip tube. I would take a sample out of the drain in the bottom of the tank let that settle out and then see if there is any water present.
If water is found to be present drain off until a satisfactory sample is achieved.
Colin
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Some real naivety here, methinks.................
This is total nonsense. If a business can meet its debts as they fall due, then there is no issue with creditors, rumours or not and they can't "foreclose". If the business can't meet its debts as they fall due, then they are trading illegally and are not covered (nor are the business's directors) by the Laws of Limited Liability.
Chris
Hi Chris
I think there are some circumstances that need to be explained.
There is a difference between cash flow and solvency, a business could be forced to cease trading purely because it does not have enough credit (cash) to be able to pay it's debts. Even though it's fixed assets exceed these debts in value. If no further credit can be raised on these assets then the company is forced to cease trading, sell its assets, pay it's debts, and in some cases still have some cash in hand.
Cash flow problems are not always a company's fault many companies are forced to cease trading by a bad debt. This debt not being paid for whatever reason and depending on the size of the debt can cause enough cash flow problems to bring down a viable company.
It's all a house of cards and you are not always in absolute control, but controlling your cash flow is the only way to try and keep ahead of the game.
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Google Cromwell Tools
Cromwell sell crowfoots. If they haven't got the right size in stock they can usually supply one within a couple of days.
Possibly the very spanner you are after. Worth a telephone call
Colin
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You talk of an open-ended system. Here we are talking about the pressure which is achieved and maintained in the closed system which exists when all the taps have been closed. A restriction to the flow may lengthen the time taken to reach this pressure, but will not affect the pressure which is eventually reached.
Hi Allan
Absolutely right, but when whatever it is starts to be used it becomes like an open-ended system.
A pressure regulator is only a spring assisted restriction.
Colin
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You cant regulate pressure with a ball valve if there is no flow, just like you cant regulate voltage with a resistor with no flow. The system will still pump up to pump cutout pressure unless you have a tap open to bleed it off
What is pressure? My understanding of pressure is a balance of volume of flow versus resistance.
IE for a pump delivering the same known volume, through varying sized open pipes the pressure at the end of these pipes will vary.
If this is true how does one define pressure? A variance in flow rate (volume) will be required to pass through differing sized pipes for the pressure to remain the same at the exit in an open ended system.
Therefore the restriction of flow must have a an effect on the pressure.
Yes or no I await the true physicists for a complete answer.
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Hi All
Joy and I will very shortly be starting our new life in retirement and will be cruising 8/9 months of the year.
Having given up our home with the retirement it looks as if a lot things that you take for granted on land will have to be sacrificed, therefore we would really appreciate any thoughts on top boxes, are they worth fitting, max height (air draft) their security as they look like easy pickings for thieves.
It looks at the moment as if we are going to have to fit one if we are to follow through with our particular cruising plans so any input will be a great help.
A whole pints worth, Ive even converted back to real ale for this retirement, started on broadside will ease myself back in gently.
Colin
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My preferred method is to solder the joint and then insulate with adhesive lined heatshrink. This is the technique used for underground jointing and I have never had one fail yet. You will need a fairly healthy soldering iron however....
Regards
Arnot
There is a correct procedure in making a tee joint into cables, and believe me I should know as I must have done thousands of them as an apprentice. Years ago in my distant past under the 13th edition of the IEE regs ECC were run separately from the twin power cables.
A ring of ECC would be run, and all the outlet earths would be tee jointed into this ring with a correct tee joint which would the be soldered.
Soldered joints on a boat are a no no, so bones suggestion in the use of joint boxes is as good as you can get.
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My Vetus is fitted with a Technodrive box, on which I am not over keen. I have learned from PRM that their 120 box is a direct fit for the Techno. So I wondered if any members had experience of the PRM 120 and would they recommend the purchase of one?
Many thanks
Hi Cat
PRM, dogs doo dars in my opinion, engineering spot on.
I had a PRM delta box on my first boat and these were considered an economical box never had any trouble whatsoever gear change smooth as you like no thump as the gear engaged.
As a result of using the delta box when it came to specifying the gear box for my new sailaway the only instruction to the builder was the gearbox had to be a PRM.
5 years on from that decision I still think, well I know there is no better .
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Sorry to slightly hijack this thread - I've got to enlarge some existing 90mm holes to 117mm in the roof.
6mm steel.
I'm probably going the jigsaw route as I've yet to find a decent tank cutter.
Any tips or DO's & DON'Ts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Mike
If you want to use a tankcutter to open up a 90mm to 117mm on the same centres you are going to need either a 90mm blank to fit on the arbour or something else to keep the drill centralised there are cutters made specifically for opening up holes on the same centres.
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Hi Bones
I don't see just what you are trying to achieve here. Waste outlets just on water line are ok so what is the problem. If you applying the 10" rule
then this can be from the source of the waste, ie bottom of sink to skin fitting. Providing the waste pipes are securely fixed. -
Horrible things, but you probably know that!
Had a house with one, and it never really worked.
Is it the type where the water has to flow through each rad, so that you can't shut one off without stopping the entire circuit? Or is it the type where a pipe goes past each rad, with a tee at each end, such that if you shut a radiator valve water will still circulate in the rest of the circuit ?
If the latter, it can help to add a valve in the "bypassing" bit of the pipe, so you can throttle back the flow there, and force more through the rad. It's still a difficult balancing act, though, IMO. The correct solution, as you have guessed, is to run a second pipe.
Spot on Alan
The most efficient system for a single pipe loop is to use fin rads to the maximum amount possible.
Aldi boilers are good on single loop systems, maximum heat coupled with a very slow pumped circulation via the aldi stirrer motor type pump.
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This problem can sometimes be cured by reducing the strength the return spring on the speed lever on the engine. Having said that, the most common cause of the problem is wear in the control mechanism which leads us back to renewal.
Hi
It is not true that you need to replace the morse control, what you need is a cable brake about £5 or a few pence if you make one yourself.
This subject has come up up a few times. Try the search, as I have explained what a cable break is couple of times in some detail.
Alternator amps and dc charger
in Boat Building & Maintenance
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HUH You Fink you ad it ard? we add to-------------- ok coats on