Big COL
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Posts posted by Big COL
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Paul
Have some more info.
On a bolin pump the water inlet is directly under the motor, and the outlet is at right angles to the motor, the polarity is as you would expect, red- positive, blue-negative. Sorry I had to leave you at lunch time, had an emergency at work.
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Paul/John
The pumps are directional there is usually an arrow on the outlet showing the direction of flow. polarity needs also to be correct as Dor said it will still run, but not work very well
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Paul
is the pump going in the correct direction the circuit should be out of the top of the stoves boiler through the rads through the pump back to the bottom connection on the stoves boiler the pump should keep the water running in this direction. so the flow from the stove is the inlet to the pump and the outlet from the pump is the return to the stove
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Paul
you can run the heating on the aldi but not with the stove lit?
if you are using the stove and the pump is part of the aldi bypass the pump must run the in the correct direction or you will be pumping against the stoves boiler flow
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Yup thats what I've done
The Aldi Boiler is blocked off by valves from the main curcuit. Incedentally I can run the heating on gas with no problems.
so we've got
STOVE ---------------RADIATORS----------------| -- ALDI BOILER
|-------------------------------------------------| --|
The Aldi boiler is not connected to the system right now.
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Paul
You will not be able to run both stove and boiler together as you will have opposing flows, the boiler will be able to work on its own with the stove not lit, if you want to use the stove I suggest you fit a by pass pipe infront of the boiler. this was covered in a post in the last month. If you are only using the stove for space heating then by pass the stove ie link flow and return, drain the stove and leave the stoves boiler connections open
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Paul
Not enough info
1 Is the pump on the flow/return?
2 Are you running stove and boiler
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The important thing to take on board is that these threads must stay focused. The original thread was for a suitable system within the boat for connecting to one or more mains supplies which is totally failsafe and at reasonable cost. That was accomplished.
Do you not think that we are all a little guilty here? The thread was started with a simple question and was dealt with quite quickly, it was then expanded upon by us guys who have enjoyed the banter that then ensued. I wonder if this may be detrimental to the forum in as much that the level that some of the threads are taken to, is off putting to readers who are reading the forum looking for basic information and so may deter them from posting a basic question.
The contributers to this forum have a wealth of information collectively and I assume get a great deal of enjoyment from their involvement, but as John quite rightly stated we tend to digress and take it to another level. Perhaps there is a call for a techy section where threads can be moved to when this occurs.
I am not being condescending here but from experience when subject matter starts to go over my head I tend to shut off, there will be a lot of readers that do not understand the technical replies and will probably do the same .You could argue that there is the information within the replies to help these sort of readers. It is there, but when a group are debating a subject and have differing opinions it's difficult to discern the correct pieces of information, its not like following a set of instructions or learning it from a book.
These are just my observations and thoughts I am well aware of principal of forums but it just seems to me that KISS should apply to the general sections and have a techy section for the hot debates. It will be interesting to see if anyone has similar thoughts
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Paul
I know exactly what you are mean here. My marina supplied me with an inline meter with a plug wired on at both ends, the chap got most upset when I informed him where he could plug it in. He was most insistant that this was how they came wired, and only after a demonstration of pluging it in with a test lamp on the other end did the penny drop. It turned out that the meter had been used before,and was handed back when the boat left, the owner of the boat had changed the socket for a plug so it matched the configuration on his boat. Enough said.
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Does this make it environmentally friendly?
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Dor
It would be worth trying electro plating then.
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John
Found your improvements very interesting, as this is a subject that I have very little knowledge of, the extent of my knowledge ends after the boat is trimmed.
Any thoughts on what I term as boil over, when making a turn with quite a few revs on a quantity of water passes over the top of the rudder, this seems to me to be a waste of energy. I have seen rudders on boats that have a piece of metal welded to the top of the rudder to form a T shape, this looks as it would stop this boil over, in discussion with a number of hull builders none of them seemed to think that the boil over was a problem, and therefore no need to add a plate on top of the rudder.
I also have a small problem with my current boat in that when requiring to stop quickly, once in reverse and the revs go on the stern lifts, air can be heard rushing in under the counter, and on she sails with very little breaking effect. It's not over propped, in fact its slightly smaller than recommended, the trim is correct about 2'' of water over the counter. Would appreciate some views on this.
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At long last have we put this thread to bed?
NOW! about rubber hulls.
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Richard
In a single cell the construction is of two separate plates sitting in electrolyte, the positive plate is the anode and the negative plate is the cathode, the resulting chemical reaction produces a voltage of 2 volts approx across the plates. The anode plate is the one that suffers the deterioration.
Substitute this into the theory that the same reaction is happening with the boats. IE your boat is the positive plate (anode) another boat is the negative plate (cathode) canal water is the electrolyte, a single cell exists, and your boat corrodes. This is as I understand the theory that is being put forward, I like John am not convinced that this is so.
Rubber hulled narrowboats is the answer.
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Chris
Reverse the polarity.
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Surely if the anode and cathode are shorted together as I was trying to say in the previous post, then no reaction can occur. A cell works from the reaction between an anode and cathode separated from each other sitting in the electrolyte. This is why batteries cease to work, the separator between the plates after a period of time breaks down. The plates (anode and cathode) short together and the cell stops working.
This is what I was trying to describe in the previous post (not very well) but if one boat is the anode and the other the cathode and they are hard wire bonded how can any reaction take place, to add to this debate in a cell it's only the anode that suffers the corrosion, which follows in the case of the two boats only one would suffer.
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Maffi
I agree, but it will still be there for the future.
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Maffi
Wheels turn a full circle. We have closed most of our coal mines, steel works, etc, as long as we don't lose the skills, when the wheel comes around again, and it will, we are still sitting on huge resources of coal and ore, others may have depleted theirs, supplying us with cheap products.
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Dor
Sorry cannot agree, the argument is that the boats are acting like the plates in a battery. Two separate boats, sitting in an electrolyte, each connected to earth, the land mass between the earths becomes the load and a reaction will occur. Well that's the theory. If you were to link all the plates together inside a battery it wouldn't operate as a battery and you could then quite happily short out the terminals.
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Maffi, Chris, Dor, Gary
Hi guys
Interesting debate going on here, if you were to hardwire bond the boats together they would then be of equal potential and being of equal potential the problem does not exist.(Gary does not agree with this, but any current flow will take the easiest path ie through the bonding cables) as water, although a conductor, is not one of the better ones. I know, totally impracticable, but just to keep the debate going.
Assuming the theory on this subject is correct, but to my way of thinking the jury is still out. Surely the only certain or near as certain as one can be, without any data confirmed by controlled tests, as opposed to scare mongering by manufacturers, who have a commercial interest in doing so, is to fit an isolation transformer in the supply from the land line, this effectively leaves your boat an isolated island without any hardwire connections to any land based supply.
This is the method that I have used on my boat, as I do believe there is some credence in some of this but cannot commit to it totally because of the lack of evidence. Hence my decision to use an isolation transformer, as I can understand the physics of it.
As to sacrificial anodes I believe that this was another commercial scam.
What area is covered by the anode? On a 70' boat with an anode at bow and stern one assumes they are providing a radial protection in excess of 35' - highly unlikely, fit them end on end down the length of the hull and you may then get some protection.
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Dan
Adjust the belt, this link belt as you describe it is Brammer belting widely used in industry in applications where normal V belts cannot be used. the belt is adjustable by removing or adding links. If the belt is too loose slip it off the pulleys, split the belt as it's designed to be split, remove one link, rejoin the belt and then stretch it back over the pulleys. These belts wear over the cross section just the same as normal V belts, it would be advisable if your belt has been slipping to replace it with a length of new belting. The modern Brammer belting is easier to split than the old style.
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Richard
Yes you do. Please let us know the end result.
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Rick
Is the ring going past the cal being used? ie to warm the engine room. Normal practice is that the last rad or cal in this case,makes the link from the flow and return. You could fit a valve on the flow after the connection to the cal and when this valve is closed the cal will make the link. What John is suggesting is for you to balance the system. Try this first but use the balance valve if you have them fitted this is on the other end of the rad from the on/off valve, doing it this way enables you to close a rad down should you need to without interfering with the balance of the system. You could also have an air lock in the cals coil try cracking the joint on the flow just befor the cal and bleed off some water into a dish.
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Have a look at what Reading college have to say on galvanic isolators,also have a look at isolation transformers.
www.reading-college.ac.uk/marine/cover.html
John are you moonlighting at the college?
What's wrong with this picture?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Paul
Fingers crossed