[Gas Safe / HETAS engineer: Sheffield]

It's this one, Jen

I haven't the space for the conventional (integrated) LPG cooker - a Vanette 5000 with matching 4-burner hob, if anyone wants it. I couldn't get a clear answer from Harworth's!! Boatyard was too relaxed about its fitting (I've seen a number of non-compliant installations) - I want to get this right (Lindy Lou fatality) - it's a big investment that involves creating a new hole in the roof for the flue. 

[Gas Safe / HETAS engineer: Sheffield]

Aah... didn't realise that it might advance the BSC. Thanks LadyG.

Basically, it's a newly-acquired narrowboat that has previously been used for leisure purposes. I know there's a problem with perishing rubber hoses out of the gas locker, want to remove the existing oven & hob, and replace with LPG hob/grill and (probably) Bubble multi-fuel stove with oven pod. I need an engineer quickly to resolve the immediate safety issue and disconnections but also want advice on the installation of the stove/oven. I've used the sheet (thanks Jen) extensively, coupled with instructions from the Bubble manufacturer. My question - which even Harworth Engineering can't clearly answer - is that there is a requirement for the tile/air-gap/calcium silicate board sandwich appears to be required to extend 200mm above the top of the stove. Now, a Bubble with oven is 820mm tall and sits on a plinth/hearth and is, say, 80mm from the sandwich under the gunwale. What I want advice on is what happens with a wood-panelled tumblehome? can I clad the tumblehome and underside of the gunwale with silicate board (which will involve exposed joints) or do I have to move the whole stove installation toward the centre of the cabin so that I have a single vertical sandwich that is about 1.1 metres high?

Jen, you're observation that HETAS engineers also serve houses equally applies to Gas Safe engineers. That's why I made the appeal on this forum - in the hope I can find someone you undertands BSS regs and can advise on both aspects.

[Gas Safe / HETAS engineer: Sheffield]

Thanks, everybody.

I did check the BSC register but ignored Richard because he was listed as Bradford.

The next inspection's not until 2023, but I will be enhancing systems and re-arranging the interior with the intention of living aboard. I was hoping I could find an engineer with certification from Gas Safe but also from HETAS as I intend to replace and relocate the stove on the narrowboat.   

[Gas Safe / HETAS engineer: Sheffield]

Hello guys,

Does anyone know / recommend an accredited engineer who can advise on a new stove installation and replace perished LPG supply tubing?

Narrowboat mooring at TInsley marina.

thks.   

[Project: third age; living aboard]

11 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

I thought it was just the angle of the photo, but having looked at it again, you are right.  

that is a very unusual arrangement in my experience. 

hull sides are normally made from a simple rectangular sheet so that the gunwale (and rubbing strakes) are parallel to the base plate over the length of the main body.

 

 

Builder was Paul Widdowson who, I believe, has a good reputation

[Project: third age; living aboard]

9 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

 

I'm surprised to see that the hull framing locations are clearly visible in the green slime on the hull. What causes that?

I don't know, David - cabin bilge is dry; ballast is unbroken paving slabs; shell was fabricated by Paul Widdowson

[Project: third age; living aboard]

4 hours ago, Loddon said:

A tender behind.

 

 

 

 

If the water line isn't parallel with the rubbing strake its bow up

 

? water line is far from parallel with the rubbing strake - it's closer to being parallel with the base plate

9 minutes ago, dmr said:

Scupper valves are not really a narrowboat thing.

You look to have a few inches to spare so should be just about ok, but I can't see the gas bottle locker drains (assuming they are at the front), they will more likely be the issue.

The boat looks to almost have two distinct waterlines??

 

..................Dave

Aah.. I will check that out - thanks. Could be full/empty water tank - only 1600 engine hours so has sat around a lot.

[Project: third age; living aboard]

5 minutes ago, dmr said:

2 foot 5 makes you a deeper boat but nothing to worry about. A lot of boats are about this deep including just about anything with a vintage engine. You will likely have no trouble on the Llangollen, CRT figures are always conservative. A deeper boat does have some handling advantages. Maybe get to know the boat first then take the ballast out bit by bit. I took a bit out of ours (2 foot 8 when the water tank is empty) and felt the handling went downhill a little.

What engine, prop, and gearbox ratio do you have?

A deep boat with a typical modern engine and smallish prop is not ideal but if you have a big prop you might be fine.

and what size is the water tank? If its unusually big then the back could easily go up and down by 2 or even 3 inches as the tank level changes.

 

...............Dave

Mmm... interesting comments, Dave. I do intend to remove any ballast incrementally, check the change in displacement at both bow & stern, and take a short cruise to examine the effect on handling. Out of my depth (sic) on the questions: it has a beta 35 and the boatyard are suggesting I change the existing prop for a Michigan, but that's because they feel the thrust is poor - can find out the spec. Don't have any spec re the water tank but I would guess it's not 'large' because the well-deck is relatively low (thus the issue with the scupper) and covers the bow thruster as well as the water tank. The measurement I tool was with a full water tank.    

[Project: third age; living aboard]

4 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

If the OP is planning to lower the bow he will need to install 'scupper-valves' or the bow will fill up.

Thks Alan - that's a new one on me. 

[Project: third age; living aboard]

1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Remember water, diesel and poo tanks when adjusting trim. Coal is heavy too, is there a bath to put it in.

Effluent tank is being removed (in favour of a composting toilet) which will help lift the stern. Coal will be kept in a tender.

Anyone give me a view on whether they think the boat is bow up? 

[Project: third age; living aboard]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I would think real slate is going to be expensive and cold. As the boat flexes, which it does all year round, the slate might crack, you cant lay it on concrete or it will submarine, but not re float. A solid floor like slate wil not only break the crockery, but is very tiring, and needs tlc.

 

I'd rather have solid real wood planks. 

There are lots of new floorings, I've heard Armtico is pretty good, all sorts of finishes in inluding slate or engineered wood lookalike . Nothing from B and Q in my experience, it looks great in the store, but ends up in landfill, real wood every time for me.

Hi LadyG. It would be laid on the original marine plywood which is current covered in B&Q lino & laminate. Take your point on flexing and hope I can compensate with a pliable bedding/grout. Will check out Armtico though - thks. 

[Project: third age; living aboard]

1 hour ago, BEngo said:

It will swim a lot better if the counter plate is on the waterline, or just (say an inch) immersed when the boat is stationary.  If it is too far out you may get wave slap when the wind is in the wrong direction.  The bow will also fall a little as the stern rises. Watch that your front door freeboard stays OK.    Whatever the static trim,  it will pull down some more at the back when under way. 

 

When you have adjusted the stern  ballast, there will be some rudder tube above water that wasn't.  Get a good coat or 4 of blacking on the newly exposed bits.

 

Slate floors can be quite heavy.  You may need some more ballast out of the front to maintain a 10 inch freeboard to the cabin doors at the bow.  Moving the stove is also likely to affect the trim, both lateral and longitudinal.  So will moving your gear on board.

 

  Moral: Make sure that you can still get at the ballast once you have laid the new floor.

 

Don't worry about a bit of nose up trim.  That is normal and helps the roof drain.  

 

 Finally, fit a Whale Gulper to the shower outlet.?

N

Thanks BEngo. I want to raise the stern by say 2-3 inches which will give me draught clearance for the Lancaster/Llangollen canals  and if the bow dips I will also be extracting ballast at the front of the cabin. Stove movement will affect lateral trim but I've got some compensating rearrangement of the interior - and access 'hole' to the base plate if needed.

Hull is being epoxy-blacked and hard-topped this week.  

[Project: third age; living aboard]

1 hour ago, Sea Dog said:

Sounds to me like you're no duck egg Barry and already have a pretty good grasp of the situation. Slate floor is a surprise to me - if you're already having to remove ballast, wouldn't something a bit less dense be preferable?

 

Other than that, I'm disappointed that you seem to be moving that boat...

 

 

... with the fenders down!   

 

Best wishes for your refit.

 

That's what comes of years of reading this blog ?

Slate floor will extend over the whole cabin length and so the 0.25 tonne load will be dissipated

Wasn't involved with the loading of the boat (in Wiltshire) - pic was taken at Goole where she was put in the water. I did find out that the stern line had been left out on the stern ? - never mind about it being caught in the prop - it would have been the trailer's wheels

[Project: third age; living aboard]

Just retired and have made living aboard a narrow boat my first project, having spent three years hiring and longer researching the idea - found this forum a valuable resource for understanding customs and technicalities, so thank you.   

Recently acquired a (2003) 52' semi-trad 'leisure boat' which is currently undergoing repaint and renewal/rectification work. I plan to reorganise the interior, including laying a slate floor, creating a walk-through shower-room, and re-siting the stove. The first job will be to remove ballast adjacent to the engine room bulkhead to lighten the rear end - she has five inches of water above the uxterplate and a draught at the skeg of 2 feet 5 inches. The photo suggests to me the boat is bow-up but the scuppers are only 4 inches above the water-line (the cabin door is raised 6 inches above the well-deck). Current displacement is 14.5 tonnes.

Opinions welcome!