GBW

What's this? I can't find a location for it. The length is 50mm (nominal 2"). None of my manuals shows it. (Could be off something else and infiltrated the rebuild bench 🤫).

Thanks for your response confirming all I have discovered laboriously elsewhere! There are two water connections between the cylinder block and the head. The joint is made with two high temperature O rings. Both these on. my engine had disintegrated. That joint could provide a route between water and oil although somewhat tenuous.

No, it wasn't Calcutt!

Don't ask me who supplied the engine!

The two references I have (one courtesy of Tony) show the atomiser washers either point up or point down. It would seem not to matter. Much more importantly, they both show the presence of a washer (copper?) on the end of the injector. I expected to find one such but did not. That would limit the insertion depth and also determine the loading on the atomiser washer. Curiouser and curiouser.

I only changed the nozzle. I can't find a figure for the torque setting for the injector hold down nuts. Presumably the atomiser washer does not end up completely flat. Is there some resilience remaining when the injector is correctly torqued down?

Thanks. I only asked about removing the top hat to check if there was an atomiser washer present. It seems that whoever rebuilt the engine, omitted the atomiser washers. I do not understand their function unless it is only to stop blow back.

I have in the past changed a couple of the glow plugs. I don't recall any difficulty. I am sure the engine will appreciate warmer weather. It normally starts immediately.

Maybe that was why the injector was so difficult to extract. The injector does now sit higher than the others. Reason could be two atomisers in cylinder or none in the others. On the spare engine, the injectors just drop in - a rattly fit and the gap between the flange and the head, with no washer inserted, is the same as the ones on the boat engine. Is it possible to extract the top hat to be sure? Certainly they don't want to move on the spare head. I haven't checked the others. I need to make something to ease the extraction. As I explained, I monitor the current to the glow plugs and it was normal. I will check for fouling round the plug hole. Is there not a danger of pushing the carbon into the combustion chamber or will it just be blown out?

There was no atomisation washer in the installed engine (and no trace of a disintegrated one). Were they always fitted? The spray from the injector looked excessive even though the pressure was correct. I replaced the nozzle with the new one (referenced above) which gave a much better defined spray. I refitted the injector using a new atomiser washer. Being cold, the engine took a long time to start and then was very lumpy possibly due to remnants of air in the lines. When warmed up, it did seem to run more smoothly than previously but I didn't have time to run it long enough to check if the clank had disappeared. Once the weather warms up, I'll try again and report back.

Would "crinkle atomiser washer" be another description for the fire washer?

The injector is without its shield. A peer down the injector hole on the spare engine shows me what your are talking about (you are right to query my knowledge Tony - but I am learning!) Next time on the boat. I'll check the state for presence and condition.

Update;- The wedge helped but it was difficult to get a decent swing at it in the confined surroundings. I removed the studs and could tap the inject round (with a brass bar). Then it came out. Back at base, the spray pattern looks good, both holes squirting and the pressure seems right. I came to the conclusion a heel bar would be best. Back to ebay!

I remembered these;- They are wedges to separate a chuck from its taper. (The magnetic tray is there to enable standing one on edge). Although the gap is too small to fit around the injector, they reminded me that I have a piece of tapered plate that I can cut some from. Might be a useful idea for others.

Thanks Tony. Yes holes as you describe. The pin on one of the injectors for the spare engine was seized solid. I extracted it by holding the body in the lathe chuck and using a drill chuck in the top slide to pull it out. An hour with the ultrasonics seemed to fix it and the pressure and spray pattern seem ok.

(I thought I could edit). I'm wrong - there are two holes (higher powered loupe!).

Yes it is.

Bought from ebay;- Injector Nozzle BMC 1.5 1.8 950cc Diesel GENUINE Lucas CAV 5650350 RDNOSPC6651

It's that word "just" again! I do wish to check the injector following Tony's advice. I have tried to use a pry bar but the access is difficult. I'll try removing some of the ancillaries to gain more space. I had not realised there were more than one spray hole. I can see two in the old injectors and the spray pattern is "bifurcated", but there appears to be only one in the new nozzle I bought. I have cranked the engine with the stud nuts loosened without result. That was without it firing. Perhaps while firing would be effective or too dangerous?

I have bought an injector tester and found that one of the injectors on my spare engine (yet to be fired up) had a seized pin and the other three needed adjustment. Good reason to check those on the boat. However, how do you eject an injector? Gently tapping with the mallet has not worked. Will running the engine with the securing nuts loosened be wise/effective?

What I implied was that maybe the cessation of the clank was perhaps not due to the injector but due to some there reason due to the cylinder not firing.

I wondered if causing the cylinder not to fire might ease the load on the crankshaft. Is that what you are suggesting? I was just beginning to take heart!🙁

Just a little one the 1.5!

That was a rapid reply Tony! I have a spare set of injectors for the replacement engine. Their condition is unknown but, as long as they are identical, it would be interesting to swap.

A previous thread relates to my troubles with the crankshaft pulleys. There was concern expressed that adding extra pulleys could unbalance the crankshaft leading to a possible failure. Taking note, I became sensitive to NOISES. In particular I believe I could hear a Clank every other revolution. Must be a big end I thought. MY very poor hearing has been of no help in diagnosis and the use of the screwdriver "stethoscope" likewise helped not at all. Relating the concern to a friend, he remarked that sometimes a failing injector can sound similar to big end rattle. I loosened the feed to the injector on cylinder one where I thought the noise came from and the clank disappeared. I do realise that not allowing the cylinder to fire could have other consequences (e.g. in terms of bearing loading) but I am encouraged to believe an "engine out" may not be necessary. Views please. scope"