Timleech
-
Posts
9,387 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Timleech
-
-
The 'new content' button has disappeared from my screen!
Tim
-
I have since my last post interviewed my wife.
Miserable man went and had a word with her, I didn't see this, explained that to use the wrong hole on the spindle damages the spindle and can cause sharp edges and it will need replacing. He learnt this 'in a recent meeting'. So perhaps he's just a bod that wonders around reciting the scrip from the latest lecture he's attended. Git!
Modern spindles have the tapers machined, rather than forged as they used to be.
This does leave them with fairly sharp corners when new. I suppose it's just possible that an oversized windlass slipping on one of these spindles could raise a burr on the corners, which could conceivable then cut somebody's hand. No need for replacement after that, if it really does happen - just clean up the burrs with a file or a soft pad in a cordless grinder, five minute job. Even better, make the new spindles a bit less sharp-cornered when new. I'd like to see evidence that it really can happen, though.
Tim
-
Engine mounts or drive plate (between engine and gearbox) failing are the most likely candidates.
Tim
-
I might be more comfortable if I was confident in CRT's assessment procedures, especially risk assessment but also heritage assessment. Direct experience suggests they are inconsistent at best and blimmin' awful at worst - has someone really done a through analysis and said that this statue is "safe" where it is? It looks fine when there is no boat in the lock, but what when there is? Can someone get trapped between a boat and the statue? Is the clearance adequate bearing in mind that boats rock? The answer may well be no and yes but have questipons been asked?
I agree that a view of the figure related to a high cabined boat in a full lock would give a better idea as to whether it is sensible, from the safety angle.
Tim
-
I'll be blacking with Rylard Premium Protection next week.
Does it need some kind of primer in thin bits or where it's back to the metal, or do you just slap it on and it sticks?
Better with no primer. Just put on an extra coat in those areas if you have the time.
Tim
-
I'd have thought that windlass jamming onto spindle was a much bigger risk than actual damage (assume he was worried about corners getting rounded off).
-
-
Outside the lockhouse to p*ss off the people who bought it and don't like boats.
Alternatively, opposite the newish houses, just before the winding hole on the top side of the locks and say hi if you do.
I would dare to say on Kennets mooring too depending on the schedule but Pluto might be grumpy with me!!
Do the 1/2 hour or whatever the ridiculous limit is signs have any legitimacy whatever? Does anything happen to people who ignore them (other than maybe a grumpy house dweller having a rant)?
On the way over last year, Pluto did offer (the other) Kennet's mooring for an overnight but in practice stopping there would not have worked for us.
Tim
-
When 2 pack is mixed any idea it would last in a jam jar ? million dollar question there.
P.S the Goyt Inn is excellent.
Depends on the product and the conditions, but maybe 6 hours.
Edit to add that I've found Epicol CT still useable next morning, but it has an advertised pot life of 8 hours, while some 2-packs have pot lives of nearer to half that.
I think some need moisture to help the curing process, those will probably keep for longer in a sealed pot.
Tim
-
Interesting since Lister apparently never made any water cooled versions of SR series. I know both SR and the larger bore ST are mentioned in title but in text the seller seems adamant it's an SR???
The SW2 is surely as close to a watercooled SR2 as you can get?
Tim
-
Thank you Tim, are there many different styles of actuator or is it either just a long or short arm version?
Quite a few. Your best bet will be to find someone with a Armstrong with lift pump, and ask them very nicely if there's any chance they will take the pump off so that you can examine it.
Have you got the roller for the injection pump lever?
Tim
-
If you are at Greenberfield, you can use the Rolls Royce Social Club, which usually has at least two or three hand-pumped beers. Thursday is pie night, with a selection of home made ones for £5.50, and Friday is fish night.
Sounds good.
Where to tie up, though?
Tim
-
the darker recesses of my mind have come up with a ball bearing, or just a round piece of hardened steel, held to the side of the injection pump lever with the pinch bolt for the timing adjustment.
Tim
-
From what I remember, it was an AC pump, basically the same as fitted to the Lister HA, but with a long arm to reach through to the camshaft or at least to the pump lever. I've got an old pump knocking around somewhere, but pretty sure it's the HA version which has a very short arm (pushrod operated). I'll have a look later.
Tim
Just to confirm that the pump I have is the Lister style.
Edit - racking my brain to remember whether the injector pump lever had a bit added to contact the lift pump arm.
Tim
-
I'm just in the midst of recommissioning an AS2 into our motor boat and need to source a lift pump as we've decided to do away with the day tank.
I have the adaptor plate to mount a pump onto but don't really know what model of pump I'll require. Albeit preferably one with a priming lever, I'm unsure on specification regards actuator etc...
Any ideas?
From what I remember, it was an AC pump, basically the same as fitted to the Lister HA, but with a long arm to reach through to the camshaft or at least to the pump lever. I've got an old pump knocking around somewhere, but pretty sure it's the HA version which has a very short arm (pushrod operated). I'll have a look later.
Tim
-
I'll put five bob on it being a Dorman
Tim
-
Well the OP states its a tug!
We just don't know which one, yet...
He might not want to publish that info if he's sniffing around before it's formally on the market...
-
Starter motor burnt out? criky ....relatevily rare thing these days on the newer stuff.
Without trying to be a no it all have you checked the easier stuff first? Like fuses, solonoids that sort of thing?
Changing a starter motor only to find its ok and the problem is something else (don't ask how I know that) is a bit of a pain.
The one I mentioned above, the real problem was that the starter battery was 8 years old and had suddenly decided it wasn't going to play any more.
However, the RCR guy had decided that the starter was at fault and had part-way removed it before giving up. I decided the best bet was to finish removing the starter and check it over anyway, it was less than perfect but would very likely have done a few more years. With all the trouble removing, safest bet was to fit new (not at Beta prices, though!).
Tim
-
On some Betas it's an absolute nightmare. You need three arms, double jointed sockets with extensions about 3' long and a huge amount of patience. I don't know whether or not this applies to yours.
I only know this because a boat was abandoned here by RCR when their fitter couldn't manage the job, he went away & never came back, & I was asked to sort it out.
Tim
-
You need something for those holesaws which will run slowly for long periods. Dedicated slow speed drills are expensive, so I'd look for a drill with two-speed gearbox and slow range of a few hundred rpm.
Edit - this would do the job
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Stanley-Type-122-Electric-Drill-/181734224537
Further edit - make sure you get one with a side handle. That old stanley has a socket on top for screwing in a piece of pipe as an extra handle.
Tim
-
I agree with Dave. I find the trip to Lechlade tedious and stressful. Endless blind bends to negotiate with the ever present likelihood of meeting a not particuarly competently steered hire boat coming downstream at quite a lick around one of those bends. And nothing much to look at other than endless acres of reeds beds and fields. The coming back YOU are the one hacking round the blind bends trying to keep your speed down!
The Thames below Oxford has a totally different character and is much more enjoyable. The only bright side to the the Lechlade trip is as Bettie says, the delightfully designed manual lock gear..
I totally disagree with the last part. I reckon the Thames above Oxford is far and away the best part.
Yes the blind bends are not exactly relaxing, especially as we with 3'6" draught needed to avoid the insides of the bends and boats coming the other way were often cutting the corners. Pointless relying on sound signals and expecting them to understand & pass on the 'wrong' side, which would have been easier for all.
Tim
-
-
I'll hazard a guess that someone at CRT has decided that display of licence should no longer be mandatory, and issued an edict to that effect, without realising that it's a legal requirement.
Tim
-
Hi Chris sorry for the delay in replying, the flywheel worked great, the problem now is that it is clockwise rotation at the flywheel end & the gearbox I have is a Hurth for a marine st2 which is anticlockwise & the hurth wont run backwards as it wont engage the plates,
Regards Ron
Many Hurth models can have the rotation reversed, it does involve dismantling the box but AIUI no new parts.
Tim
Who's got the oldest LW on this forum?
in Gardner
Posted
It's possible that I own the oldest Gardner of any forum member, an 0VC from 1931, but it's no longer in my boat and not an LW.
I think my 4LW started life in the late 1930s, but it depends partly which number you believe & I've never checked properly.
Tim