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Timleech

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Posts posted by Timleech

  1. While the rudder is out, after you have cleaned the rudder tube out tie a piece of rag to the end of a stick and give it a liberal dose of grease, then use the stick to poke it down the tube and cover the inside of the tube with grease

     

    Most boats get some wash from the prop up the rudder tube from time to time, this would soon wash out any normal grease.

    Paint would be much better.

     

    Tim

  2.  

    Cant speak for boats, where it does appear common to isolate the positive, as is commonly done on cars also. However all of the JCB Loadall range have the battery isolator on the negative side.

     

     

    Daniel

     

    It used to be common practice to have isolators in the Negative on boats, and two banks could be isolated with one switch if this were done.

    It's rather frowned upon now, but I'll bet there are plenty of boats around which still have negative isolators.

     

    Tim

  3.  

    No (ha-ha) but we have a 3:1 gearbox so to achieve the same speed as a 2:1 gearbox the engine is 'reving' much higher and thus using more fuel.

     

    Do you have a 2:1 gearbox ?

     

    With a 2:1 gearbox at 1600 rpm the prop is achieving 800 rpm - to achieve 800 rpm with a 3:1 gearbox the engine needs to be running at 2400 rpm.

     

    That only applies if both engines have the same prop.

    If the prop is properly matched with your 3:1 box, it ought to be slightly more efficient and use less fuel.

     

    Tim

  4.  

    If I could see a picture of that boat, I could probably tell you if she's a dutch barge and what sort of type, but by clicking on the link I only get the following :

     

     

    Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay.

     

    Peter.

     

    Peter

     

    Can you see this beautiful craft?

     

    http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjQ4WDg2NA==/z/8skAAOSwstxVXYlt/$_57.JPG

     

    Tim

  5. Hawthorn can also be red but can be distinguished fro alder by the very close grain. The annular rings are very close together making it a really good firewood as it burns hot for a long while.

     

    It can make an awful stink if it isn't seasoned, though!

  6. you need two whitworth sizes, from memory 3/16" and 5/16" but I might be wrong, for almost everything.

     

    Now that all depends whether you are talking Whit or BSW sizes ;) (see the Gardner fuel filter thread).

     

    I believe 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16" WHIT will do most things unless you get involved with top or bottom end overhauls.

     

    Tim

  7.  

     

    Its a pouring kettle, you pop your hot water in, or boil on the stove, then with a thermometer in the top you can adjust heat to get the desired temp 90-95. The long spout gives you a more controlled pour on the grinds, you don't want to be pouring water in too fast, this disturbs the grinds, you get the bloom to rise, then pour anti clockwise, usually doing two pours to reach your desired output in grams within a certain time frame, usually about 2-2.30 minutes.

     

    Sounds a faff but you get a really great cup of coffee, even more so if you use the right bean, african beans can be good for this method.

     

    I bet there's a measurable temperature drop along the spout ;)

  8.  

    Just a vote in favour of using the right tool for the job - always.

    I don't much like 'adjustable' spanners either -- did you know the French refer to such a tool as "un clef anglais"?

     

    Adjustable spanners have their place, but not for routine use especially on smaller hexagons.

    Known with good reason in some circles as 'nut-knackerers'.

     

     

    Here is a C-spanner, BTW.

     

    Tim

  9. So Tim, what studding do I need? 3/8 or 5/16? (academic I sus'pose as I've ordered both).

     

    Gardner book states 3/8 Wh by 5/16 Hex for the NUT (silent about the stud).

     

    (I think it's 3/8" both ends as the tpi is approx 16 and the diameter of rod is 3/8" - but since I lost me calipers I'm relying on a manky tape measure.

     

    I suppose the book means 3/8" Whit thread, and 5/16" spanner size (ie 3/8" BS size) for the nut.

    Older ones had a big wing nut.

     

    Tim

  10.  

    ISTR Whitworth nuts and bolts have spanners labelled according to the thread diameter, not the A/F size. Then confusingly, as materials improved, they stepped the actual A?F size down one, so the spanner that fits say, a new(ish) 7/16" Whitworth nut would be labelled 3/8" Whitworth.

     

    Or am I thinking of BSF?

     

     

    MtB

     

    There's Whitworth, as specced by Sir Charles, and then British Standard Whitworth. It's the BSW which uses the smaller hex sizes. Also British Standard Fine uses the same sizes as BSW.

    Your spanner example above should be labelled 3/8"W, 7/16" BS.

     

    Tim

  11. Yes exactly, so it's bit of a myth when some people imply that there was a time within living memory, when nobody locked their doors and nobody stole.

    In the late 1960s, we would frequently, if we went away for a weekend or longer, lock the front door but leave the back kitchen window (very low level, easy to climb through) open for the cat.

     

    Two big changes since that time. One, as already mentioned, there wasn't much of a problem with peple stealing to pay for drugs. The other was that people generally had many fewer possessions.

     

    Tim

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