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Timleech

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Posts posted by Timleech

  1. I presume that this fitting will be some obscure Whitworth part that is difficult to replace.

    So before I try to tighten it up to stop a slight fuel weep,I thought I'd ask the Gardner collective for their knowledge of availability just in case something goes "prang"!!!!

     

    Also, as a matter of interest, would it be possible to bypass the Amal pump and rely on the fuel pump with the levers on, to pump enough fuel through to the injectors??

     

    They will tolerate being pretty tight, but of course there is a limit...

    It's possible that Amal have stocks of the part, but it won't be cheap. Having failed to get any reply from them over another part, I decided to make one as I was building up a complete spare pump. See:-

    http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=70676&page=2, Post No21

    I made it with extra thread length and a deeper brass cap nut, just to reduce the risk of stripping the thread.

    Be aware that these fittings came in different sizes for different engines, but I should think all the LWs have the same fitting.

     

    Don't overtighten it. Replace the copper washers with Dowty washers and your leaks will be gone.

     

    MP.

     

    The banjo on mine has a bigger hole in the inner face, a Dowty washer would be no use on that. No idea why, but it's not the only one that I've seen like that.

     

    Tim

  2.  

     

    True,

     

    But on a nice vintage twin the two adjacent firing stokes can usually be clearly heard separately at tickover speed, which is what we've turned to discussing!

     

    It would be bonkers to try to count those separate firing strokes. At 400-ish rpm, they do meld pretty well together even though you can distinguish them if you really feel the need.

     

    Tim

  3.  

     

    Unless the OP has really good hearing. The number of combustion strokes per minute on a two cylinder four stroke IS the RPM!

     

    Yes, but two combustion strokes are close together and generally sound like one 'beat'. If you get it running really slowly you can distinguish the two.

     

    Tim

  4. I did come up with the idea of painting a mark on the flywheel with tippex then filming with my iPhone for one minute and replaying in slow motion whilst counting the revolutions. Would this work or is it a crazy idea?

     

    Why bother when you really can just count the beats against a clock?

     

    Tim

  5. If anyone wants a solid cordless jigsaw for DIY money, I have a Milwaukee that I bought secondhand some years ago but never really used - I couldn't really get on with the slider switch. I don't think the previous owner used it much, either.

    I'll try to dig it out in the next couple of days and see how the battery is.

     

    Tim

  6. If you left an immersion heater connected to shorepower to heat a 55litre calorifier......but didn't remove the water at all...but merely used the coil to feed a radiator circuit.....

     

    how much elec do you think the immersion would cost per month?

     

    Based on never needing to add cold water to the calorifier......just enough to fill it...once...and then keep hot.

     

    A standard 3kW immersion heater would just about keep one reasonable radiator, or a couple of small ones, hot if running flat out.

    3kW x 24 hours x 30 days = 2160 units, multiply that by what you are paying per unit.

     

    Tim

  7. Well, on a showman's wagon it's called a mollycroft because that's their term for it. On a railway carriage it's called a clerestory because that's their term for it. I'm going to call it a clerestory on that boat because it's not a showman's boat. I also think that it's by far the best bit on that boat.

     

    We knew them as clerestories on the Hotel Boats Mabel & Forget-me-Not, where they housed water tanks as well as providing ventilation and illumination.

     

    Tim

  8.  

    Interesting point. When I snag my boat whilst tying up with centre line, and it heels a little, I can often hear idling revs drop a little before picking up. Guess that's only going to happen on vintage engines with high rotating mass.

     

    More to do with having a transversely mounted inline fuel pump, methinks.

  9. Look lads - it's a Gardner, stop the engine, when it stops push the 'stop lever' back into start position, Before starting, check the oil open the throttle a bit and 'hit the button', it starts first time.

     

    Ledgendary Engineering excellence!

     

    L.

     

    I need to use the cold start button (for a cold start) on my 4LW because there is a heavy alternator load almost immediately, without the excess fuel the engine will fire but not pick up.

     

    Tim

  10. Does it change if you rock the boat?

     

     

    I didn't try but can do tomorrow. It could have been as I was moving around the boat. Why?

     

     

    Richard

    Certainly on Nationals any list on the boat can have a small effect on tickover speed, because the weight of various components is either being pushed uphill or downhill according to the angle. Mind you, the National governor design is crap, especially when it has 50 to 80 years' wear built in. The original RN governor is a bit better, but I can still imagine that sort of effect arising. I think they did imrove the governor design for later engines, but can't remember the details.

     

    Tim

  11. Hi all

     

    So first 'problem'. Ran the RN this evening and found the tickover high, as picked up on the survey. On advice from another DM owner adjusted it down and all seemed fine. However, whilst getting on with other things found the rpm would increase again randomly. Pushing the lever as if to stop the engine brought it back again but same thing happened several times. Any ideas? Setting off tomorrow morning so will see if it affects cruising and report back.

    Thanks

    Richard

     

    Does it change if you rock the boat?

  12. i got a makita one that cost me £350 both batteries were shot before 12 months, the one in your link looks interesting, the problem with low cost cordless jigsaws is the length of cut between charges is usually short.

     

    Agreed, with the limited battery voltage and capacity you might find it frustrating if you don't have a second battery.

     

    I have a Metabo 18V jigsaw, brilliant tool even if heavier than the mains equivalent, and wasn't too pricey as a bare tool, already had the batteries for other kit.

     

    Tim

  13. This is the rudder or our 1998 Liverpool boat if it helps you picture what goes on under the waterline. Looks to me like its bolted through.

     

    2014-09-01164742_zps0b953630.jpg

     

    As per my description, two through bolts and a pich bolt between them. Looks as though there could be some weld around the bottom?

     

    Tim

  14. Except you can go faster!

     

    AFAIK the speed limit is 6mph throughout, (unless you know otherwise?) though we did pass a plastic cruiser one one of the river sections doing considerably more than that last year (and doing no obvious harm).

     

    Tim

  15. Yes, the standard Liverpool Boats arrangement is that the rudder post drops through a tube which is integral to the rudder blade.
    There is a central 'pinch' bolt, with a through bolt above and below this.
    The arrangement will work loose, sooner or later, so owners often opt to have a bit of weld added to stop this.
    If no welding has been done, you do have a reasonable chance - if you have long enough arms or don't mind getting into the canal - of dismantling without docking.

     

    Tim

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