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Duck-n-Dive

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Posts posted by Duck-n-Dive

  1. 14 minutes ago, Robbo said:

    Always go from the top, sanitation hoses will smell if they hold any waste in them.

     

    I was wondering if there was a problem with the outlets holding waste, but I was thinking about stuff solidifying in the pipe. I thought proper sanitation hose wouldn't let smells through.

    I am torn between the two at the moment. Stainless is cheaper (surprisingly) and according to some people it will last longer, however the plastic tank I  looking at doesn't need side support, and you can see the level in a plastic tank by shining a light through it, just in case the level gauge fails.

  2. This is not a fashion question.

    Plastic waste tanks I have seen have a dip pipe for the "extraction" with a connection on the top of the tank.  I have seen a couple of stainless tanks, where the pump out connection is simply a connection off the side of the tank at the bottom.

    Does any body know which is better, or is it just a preference?

  3. Both Webasto and Eberspacher need a good circulation to get rid of the hot water that they are generating., so you need to keep the flow going.  If they don't have enough load, they will start and stop which will reduce the life dramatically.

    1. Ideally the main flow should be in 22mm with 15mm T to each radiator.

    2, Remove all thermostatic valves and leave all of the valves open

    3, Make sure any branch through the calorifier is fitted with a 3/4 closed isolator to reduce the flow throught the coil.

    4. Make sure the header tank is in the Return to the webasto, not the flow.

  4. I charge £95 for fuel polishing, but you will lose a hefty percentage of what you think you have as some of the volume is water and other crud. I would suggest that you would be better spending the money on some locktight, and then checking all the fuel fittings for tightness.

  5. I used 393 on the rear deck of my "project" boat in the boatyard.  Two coats, no primer 2 years ago and it is still there

    As an experiment I overcoated it with Rylard 2-pack blacking with no reaction.

    I then overcoated that with 393.  No reaction

    Just to complete the experiment, a further coat of 2-pack.

    Over the last year the 393 - 2 pack - 393 - 2-pack - 393  sandwich has remained solid with no reaction despite being walked on many times, so I conclude that 393 and 2-pack are compatible. 

    I will post a photo next time I am at the boatyard if I remember.

    However, I am not sure that "overcoated" is a word, maybe I have just invented it.?

  6. I would recommend using Vactan on all solid rust, then a good Zinc Phosphate primer, such as johnsons high build primer.

    An alternative to primer is such as Firwoods 393 machine paint.  This is hard wearing and several coats can be put on quickly as it is very fast drying.

     

    https://www.firwood.co.uk/categories/industrial-paints/finishes-and-top-coats/product/firwood-393-rapid-dry-matt-finish/393~393-8000-D

     

    • Greenie 1
  7. 4 minutes ago, JamesFrance said:

    That was not enough when I had a 25 ton boat, they still worked loose with shallow canals like the Llangollen when the water was sucked out from under the boat.

    Maybe you should try the Leeds Liverpool.  In some parts there's no chance of any water under your boat. ?

  8. 14 hours ago, Alway Swilby said:

    I have found that you get this error if you try to upload a gpx file for a journey that hasn't gone through any canal waypoints such as a bridge, a lock, winding hole, junction etc.

    This file was from a hike mapping app from a walk along the canal, so the waypoints are probably random, rather than at specific canal locations. 

  9. Yes, the week counter is only 10 bits long, so it rolls over after 7168 days. 

     

    This happened to the majority of GPS's in April last year.  I updated my firmware and the only immediate effect was the GPS ignoring daylight saving.  However my GPS was one of the few that started their "week counter" late, so my GPS didn't get the date wrong until October 2019.  No further firmware updates are now available as it is obsolete.

  10. Finally sorted this.  My update to the GPS for GPS rollover doesn't work.  

    The date stamp from my GPS is 7168 days and 1 hour behind the clock.

    I cannot get support for the GPS as it is now obsolete, so until I can justify buying another one, I will polish up my (very) rusty programming skills and write a program for correcting the data files before uploading.

     

    So, basically I have gone back to the year 2000,

    I would have preferred 1978 myself.

  11. 17 minutes ago, Detling said:

    At best you have a 250 watt solar system there, the current is going to be limited to 5 ish amps by the 100 watt panel it will not allow any more through, so the 150 watt panels which probably are each capable of 6 or more amps ie 12+ in parallel, are being limited to 5 amps total maximum, you would get more solar power by just shorting out or removing the 100 watt panel, provided the controller can cope with 300 watts and 12+ amps input.

    Yes this is true whenever all panels are getting the same sunshine, but when half the boat is in shade then I still get some power.  It is a compromise and I will rectify this when it approaches page 1 of my "to do" list ?

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