Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Sassy Lass

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks !. Is this better w.r.t. first shut off-tap ? There is PRV and theromstat mixer factory fitted on the surecal, Ive only drawn from the hot take-off, apologies again for the CAD 🙄 How/where do I fit a pressure gauge ...
  2. Thanks. Reassuring that scheme overall seems ok. In terms of implementation I was thinking about braided hose so as to: (i) reduce number of connections - seems like a good idea to me, and; (ii) provide some vibration isolation. Speedfit do a heavier duty hose (see pg 17) but it only terminates on union nuts and I was thinking SF less likely to vibrate loose than nut + ptfe + thread connection. Do most think that pipe origami with lots of elbows etc is better ??..Ive enc a drawing below... as you can see I have access to a multi-million pound CAD system (not).
  3. Re-plumbing soon. Going to get SureCal cauliflower 😀. Their install pdf shows : Hot Out -> "T" Split to hot taps -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> Shower hot. Why not just : Hot out -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> "T" to Shower -> "T" to Taps , all in one long run (what I'd like to do) ??? In first case (what SureCal suggest) Expansion tank is NOT before first hot out taps ??. Anything wrong with what Im planning -- hate to ignore the OEM advice but it doesnt make sense to me ... which usually means Ive made a mistake somewhere 🙄!. And on another dumb question note (!) - is there anything wrong with going with speedfit braided hose direct from the calorifier to first "T" ?
  4. You must be a mind reader !!! - small fender like you describe was my other thought. Know a metal fab that I'm sure would do the job with an off cut for just a few quid. Having flush finish would allow me to extend tiled area good distance which I think would look good.
  5. Thanks All. Im checking with manufacturer re temps below. Really good practical point wrt having a lip to collect coals and ash. Think I will heed advice and go back to usual route of raised hearth with lip if possible. Still going to stick with quarry tiles though 🙂
  6. Thanks. The 25mm height Im aiming for is so that it will end up flush with solid floor planking (probably 22-25mm boards, maybe reclaimed, maybe new). Then Ill use the tiles too in the galley corridor area (with a 2mm dpm sheet as bathtub underneath), like this https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/771874823615029798/, and all will be at the same level, sort of -- massively optimistic I know !.
  7. Just got a new hobbit stove :-P . Got it with stand , which raises it 158mm and has a steel plate built in as heat reflector. Want a tiled hearth. Ideally 25mm, which would be 8mm tiles, 3-4mm tile cement, 12mm Masterboard. Would that be okay in terms of BSS ??. Does the stand make a difference in terms of BSS (Ive looked at reg's .pdf and cant find anything specific). its not a new boat so I know its not mandatory but Ive got a BSS due and Id like (i) it to be safe, and; (ii) keep the BSS Insp. happy 🙄 . Otherwise to go the solfitec recommended route would mean 60mm (8mm tile, 3-4mm cement, 15mm cement board, 25mm silicate, 10mm airgap) -- seems like overkill to me !
  8. You're quite right not really fair to compare a compressor to absorption - Things are moving on rapidly in 230v fridge world - this one is A+++ 61kwh/yr !!! = 18Ah/day (at 75% inverter efficiency) for £220....just wish it was < 500mm deep 🙄
  9. thanks. I just needed a sanity check. maybe its just dometic that are pants - equiv compressor to el cheapo 230v I was looking at (£99) is £1265 !!!!!!!!!! and uses "0.36 kWh/24h" so 360/12 = 30Ah/24hrs, i.e., the same juice . ok, so its probably a bit nicer unit, but I could get x12 of the others for the same price 🤔
  10. so Ive been looking at a 12v dometic fridge and it says "Energy consumption ([email protected]/25°C) 2.64 kWh/24h" , which surely means 2640/12= 220 Ah /24hr ???? Surely that cant be right ? - Thats pants ! If I get a cheap 230v rated at 108kwh/yr = 108000/365 = 295 wh/24hrs = 24.5 Ah/24hrs, say even only 75% inverter efficiency = 32Ah/24hrs Wut am I missing here ????
  11. Very much not wasting your time. I wouldn't have looked into those two specific products without advice from here. There are thousands of products out there (I got distracted by 2pack varnishes for a good while), but I don't like the rich thick, undoubtedly durable, varnish look, as in original question.
  12. Yes ... but dont think I want build up of body and thickness (aka gunk) - Im not treating outside (like on dogbox above), but doing inside hatch window lining (outside of hatch is all steel :-P). Have just ordered osmo - will post update in 5 years when its all gone grey 🙄
  13. that dog box is the dog's b*ll*cks... Thanks folks, so the final bake-off seems to be between: Osmo polyx vs Le Tonk (say, 3 coats too ) 🙄 For me I think Osmo as : I dont want high gloss (or faff of adding gellomat) , and, the killer : I dont want to sand between every coat (as per Le Tonk FAQ here) They seem very similar btw... Osmo polyx "Based on natural plant oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soya oil, thistle oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffin, siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives. Dearomatized white spirit (benzene-free). EU limit value for this product (cat. A/i): 500 g/l VOC (2010). This product contains max. 500 g/l VOC. Detailed declaration of ingredients available upon request". Whereas, Le Tonk : "Ingredients Pure resin modified through high temperature curing, Linseed oil, Tung oil, vegetable driers and thinners. Does not contain petroleum based solvents."
  14. Thanks for all advice. It was oak-going-grey thing that I wanted to avoid postpone as much as possible - do you think Sikkens wont protect from that ?. Anyone actually put Sikkens on oak on a boat - does it work ?. If not then maybe osmo ? - which one ?? 410 protection oil ?.
  15. Got some very nice new hatch windows (c/o Mr Kedian) - strawpoll: What would be best product to treat and preserve oak trim on inside (not varnish) ?? (I was thinking Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus) ?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.