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Sassy Lass

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  1. Those Mikalor clips look really nice * . You've sent me down another wonderful rabbit hole !!. Make the Jubilee SS314 ones Ive got look like children's toys .. Price comparable as looks like definitely get only x1 on. Available here. *Yes, Im strange like that, I really do like them...suspect I might be in the right place on here?
  2. Thanks. Gotta love this forum. So much accumulated arcane knowledge and so many great tips ? I'll: Fit without sealant, make sure clips are on the hose, orientate them, probably use 2 with heads at 180deg (because Im a two-clip kind of girl), warm the tube in boiling water, tighten with 7mm socket.
  3. Should I put thread seal on barbed hose ? Going to attach new car heater pipe (SAEJ20R3) to existing barbed hose connectors on engine and calorifier, locked down with SS jubilee clips.... Should I just jam hose on 'dry' ?, or should I put on a bit of thread seal (JetLube v-2) onto the male barbed hose connector before I put pipe on ? ... would it help seal or would it help hose come off !??
  4. Thanks Dave. Thats a very neat setup !. Have you had any problems with 1/2" BSP female hose to male plastic Jabsco pump port insert connection ? - When Ive looked at my mine it looked like a likely point of weakness. So much effort on these things and then it all hinges on a 2p piece of plastic !!. Im off now to the hunt around the darkest recesses of the garden shed for a perfect sized concrete slab so I can copy you !...
  5. Thanks Dave, Would be interested to see photos. Brummies, Unfortunately Ive removed everything !. Current state of boat as per photo below from last weekend ?
  6. Thanks Dave, Cant tell you how helpful that is to know someone has tried this setup in practice and got it working !!. Im going to set about it today. I'll do it as an 'experiment' and report back here if there are problems, but the advantages are: (i) K.I.S.S. - easier to work out whats happening if goes wrong ?, (ii) Fewer connections / pipe joins - got to be a good thing, (iii) Because of (ii) a bit cheaper, (iv) Cant be totally bonkers because some manufacturer's recommend it, (v) Should be safe / no scalding risk if I use a thermostatic mixer on Shower which Im going to (I know lots dont and just use two standard taps becuase there's a TMV on the calorifier but I want to keep have separate regulation of shower temp) How have you mounted pump to concrete slab - have you drilled and then used insert nuts ?
  7. ok think I know whats happening...its the TMV. Sigmar Marine, Vetus and Webasto suggest what I was proposing (note past tense !) is okay iff no TMV. (see vetus setup 7 vs 9). But that makes me more confused about SureCal (which is what Ive got), their advice is to tee off for shower before calorifier ?? ?
  8. yes, I think its pressure issue. Webasto / Isotemp suggest same layout. Want tee at calorifier to split pressure equally to hot and cold demand (ideally). So Im thinking go with the tried and tested (no great prob running 3 pipes up and down boat), but what about -- https://www.bes.co.uk/water-pressure-equalising-valve-16711 ???
  9. I often get up hours before wife ... want to be able to run taps etc without waking her
  10. Yes ... getting x1 pump to feed cold to shower and cold-in & hot-out to calorifier does concern me, but thats the way most people seem to do. Manufacturer advice is to tee off cold for shower before cold in to calorifier (see here), which is what Im proposing. Wouldnt a good quality thermostatic mixer valve on shower cope ?? (I can run electrics anywhere so thats not an issue for me. I want pump at bow because noise as bed will be at back.)
  11. Is there anything wrong with cold water system Im proposing - as per CAD drawing doodle below ?. What was previously on boat makes no sense to me - I think it was copied from Surecal advice a little too literally and involves cold water from tank to calorifier at back of boat and then back up all the way along the boat again !? - is there a good reason for doing it this way that Im missing ?.
  12. Thanks !. Is this better w.r.t. first shut off-tap ? There is PRV and theromstat mixer factory fitted on the surecal, Ive only drawn from the hot take-off, apologies again for the CAD ? How/where do I fit a pressure gauge ...
  13. Thanks. Reassuring that scheme overall seems ok. In terms of implementation I was thinking about braided hose so as to: (i) reduce number of connections - seems like a good idea to me, and; (ii) provide some vibration isolation. Speedfit do a heavier duty hose (see pg 17) but it only terminates on union nuts and I was thinking SF less likely to vibrate loose than nut + ptfe + thread connection. Do most think that pipe origami with lots of elbows etc is better ??..Ive enc a drawing below... as you can see I have access to a multi-million pound CAD system (not).
  14. Re-plumbing soon. Going to get SureCal cauliflower ?. Their install pdf shows : Hot Out -> "T" Split to hot taps -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> Shower hot. Why not just : Hot out -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> "T" to Shower -> "T" to Taps , all in one long run (what I'd like to do) ??? In first case (what SureCal suggest) Expansion tank is NOT before first hot out taps ??. Anything wrong with what Im planning -- hate to ignore the OEM advice but it doesnt make sense to me ... which usually means Ive made a mistake somewhere ?!. And on another dumb question note (!) - is there anything wrong with going with speedfit braided hose direct from the calorifier to first "T" ?
  15. You must be a mind reader !!! - small fender like you describe was my other thought. Know a metal fab that I'm sure would do the job with an off cut for just a few quid. Having flush finish would allow me to extend tiled area good distance which I think would look good.
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