mboat01

thanks. OB1 is a nose ahead into final straight and data sheet says full cure time is 24hrs .. think me arms would be tired pushing in place for that long

Thats brilliant idea ... and got me googling - i cant see why https://www.screwfix.com/p/extending-support-rod-2-95m/14003 braced across cabin shouldnt work. Thanks so much for the inspiration !. Now just got to settle on glue ... so far about 10 options ? (options mentioned so far = Marineflex, Sikaflex, Stixall, CT1, OB1, PU18, SikaTack, Tiger sealer)

Thanks All. Is clamping pressure a factor ? - I know epoxy doesnt like high clamp pressure, whereas PVA adhesives do. With where I need to fix in to Im not going to be able to put a clamp on at all. Ill just have to put in the adhesive, push down on the wood, and hope for the best. I know that would work fine with epoxy, but consensus seems to be that isnt flexible enough. So I guess question is which of OB1 or SikaTack do you think would be best in that usage scenario ?

thanks ... though I am a padawan I should have foreseen ... the glue wars have begun ! a disturbance in the force I sense ? OB1 looks good

What would be best for bonding wood battens to inside hull above gunwales bare (primed) steel near windows ? - Epoxy (e.g., Araldite rapid 5 min syringe) or weatherproof sealant (e.g., Sikaflex EBT+ Polyurethane) ??. I want good bond from wood to steel but Im also concerned that needs to have some flexibility as sides of boat stretch and expand when facing sun. By instinct Id go with the epoxy - am I missing any obvious problems ?.

Thanks. Will have good rummage on fleabay/gumtree. Can see how would be better than narrow staves. Also has bonus of having lots of pen*s already gouged in, so save time as I dont have to do that myself.

b*ll*ck$ - my 1/4 palm router isnt going to work for a 30+ mm cut is it ... if doing a hardwood mebbe Ill just use one of these ...

Thanks Detling. Thats reassuring !. Iroko looks v.nice... a bit of googling suggests I can get the 3.5 linear m I need for kitchen and dinette table for just under £300 new in 27mm (cheaper than reclaimed !?)... so Im tempted !. Ive got a makita 1/4" hand router which Im hoping will cope if I take my time I dont like square edge laminate - dont see how I could do an internal radius with 38mm bullnose variety and as Im doing dinette table as well there would be a lot of edging to peel away in due course ?

Thanks. Do you mean this sort of bracket ? Is 27mm a false economy then ? - are there sig less wood expansion warp issues with 40mm ? ... would like wood top so I can do some fancy radius shapes, cant afford acrylic, cant do that sort of thing with laminate...

Going to put in solid beech kitchen worktop - is 27mm thickness ok ?, do they warp too easily ? Or, in practice are they ok ?. Would prefer to do 27mm rather than 40mm thickness as lighter and cheaper ? Any experience from kitchen / boat fitters appreciated

Im going to install a Hobbit stove. I would like to use their flue kit which is single skin to near roof, then double skin (https://salamanderstoves.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/canal-boat-flue-kit-.pdf), rather than say the morso double skin kit as this is 5" and I think looks to big for a tiny stove... I know the official line (http://www.soliftec.com/Boat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf) is that ss flue must be > x3 dia of flue from unshielded side-wall, which would be 12" in this case as the Hobbit uses a 4" flue, and thats what they as manufacturers say, cos theyve got to stick to the official line... But for space Ive got it looks like its going to be just over 8" to bulkhead which is 3x2" studded partition construction faced with fireboard + tile to 1m height, then, and its this bit that thats the area of concern, from thereon, 18mm oak floorboards to ceiling. So...the question is: Is 8" okay from a ss flue to 18mm oak floorboards or am I going to immediately die in an inferno and I need to get a double skin flue ?

Those Mikalor clips look really nice * . You've sent me down another wonderful rabbit hole !!. Make the Jubilee SS314 ones Ive got look like children's toys .. Price comparable as looks like definitely get only x1 on. Available here. *Yes, Im strange like that, I really do like them...suspect I might be in the right place on here?

Thanks. Gotta love this forum. So much accumulated arcane knowledge and so many great tips ? I'll: Fit without sealant, make sure clips are on the hose, orientate them, probably use 2 with heads at 180deg (because Im a two-clip kind of girl), warm the tube in boiling water, tighten with 7mm socket.

Should I put thread seal on barbed hose ? Going to attach new car heater pipe (SAEJ20R3) to existing barbed hose connectors on engine and calorifier, locked down with SS jubilee clips.... Should I just jam hose on 'dry' ?, or should I put on a bit of thread seal (JetLube v-2) onto the male barbed hose connector before I put pipe on ? ... would it help seal or would it help hose come off !??

Thanks Dave. Thats a very neat setup !. Have you had any problems with 1/2" BSP female hose to male plastic Jabsco pump port insert connection ? - When Ive looked at my mine it looked like a likely point of weakness. So much effort on these things and then it all hinges on a 2p piece of plastic !!. Im off now to the hunt around the darkest recesses of the garden shed for a perfect sized concrete slab so I can copy you !...