[bonding battens]

thanks. OB1 is a nose ahead into final straight and data sheet says full cure time is 24hrs .. think me arms would be tired pushing in place for that long

[bonding battens]

1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

To hold the battens whilst the whatever glue sets use thin wooden lath wedged across the cabin.

Thats brilliant idea ... and got me googling - i cant see why https://www.screwfix.com/p/extending-support-rod-2-95m/14003 braced across cabin shouldnt work. Thanks so much for the inspiration !.

 

Now just got to settle on glue ... so far about 10 options ?

(options mentioned so far = Marineflex, Sikaflex, Stixall, CT1, OB1, PU18, SikaTack, Tiger sealer)

 

[bonding battens]

Thanks All. Is clamping pressure a factor ? -  I know epoxy doesnt like high clamp pressure, whereas PVA adhesives do. With where I need to fix in to Im not going to be able to put a clamp on at all. Ill just have to put in the adhesive, push down on the wood, and hope for the best. I know that would work fine with epoxy, but consensus seems to be that isnt flexible enough. So I guess question is which of OB1 or SikaTack do you think would be best in that usage scenario ?

[bonding battens]

thanks ... though I am a padawan I should have foreseen ...

the glue wars have begun !

a disturbance in the force I sense ?

 

OB1 looks good 

 

[bonding battens]

What would be best for bonding wood battens to inside hull above gunwales bare (primed) steel near windows ? - Epoxy (e.g., Araldite rapid 5 min syringe) or weatherproof sealant (e.g., Sikaflex EBT+ Polyurethane) ??. I want good bond from wood to steel but Im also concerned that needs to have some flexibility as sides of boat stretch and expand when facing sun. By instinct Id go with the epoxy - am I missing any obvious problems ?. 

[27mm thick kitchen worktop ok ?]

Thanks. Will have good rummage on fleabay/gumtree. Can see how would be better than narrow staves. Also has bonus of having lots of pen*s already gouged in, so save time as I dont have to do that myself.

[27mm thick kitchen worktop ok ?]

b*ll*ck$ - my 1/4 palm router isnt going to work for a 30+ mm cut is it ... if doing a hardwood mebbe Ill just use one of these ...

 

[27mm thick kitchen worktop ok ?]

Thanks Detling. Thats reassuring !. 

 

Iroko looks v.nice... a bit of googling suggests I can get the 3.5 linear m I need for kitchen and dinette table for just under £300 new in 27mm (cheaper than reclaimed !?)... so Im tempted !. 

 

Ive got a makita 1/4" hand router which Im hoping will cope if I take my time

 

I dont like square edge laminate  - dont see how I could do an internal radius with 38mm bullnose variety 

and as Im doing dinette table as well there would be a lot of edging to peel away in due course ?

[27mm thick kitchen worktop ok ?]

Thanks. Do you mean this sort of bracket ? Is 27mm a false economy then ? - are there sig less wood expansion warp issues with 40mm ?

... would like wood top so I can do some fancy radius shapes, cant afford acrylic, cant do that sort of thing with laminate...

[27mm thick kitchen worktop ok ?]

Going to put in solid beech kitchen worktop - is 27mm thickness ok ?, do they warp too easily ?

Or, in practice are they ok ?. Would prefer to do 27mm rather than 40mm thickness as lighter and cheaper ?

Any experience from kitchen / boat fitters appreciated 

[is 8" from ss flue to bulkhead okay ?]

Im going to install a Hobbit stove. I would like to use their flue kit which is single skin to near roof, then double skin (https://salamanderstoves.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/canal-boat-flue-kit-.pdf), rather than say the morso double skin kit as this is 5" and I think looks to big for a tiny stove... I know the official line (http://www.soliftec.com/Boat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf) is that ss flue must be > x3 dia of flue from unshielded side-wall, which would be 12" in this case as the Hobbit uses a 4" flue, and thats what they as manufacturers say, cos theyve got to stick to the official line... But for space Ive got it looks like its going to be just over 8" to bulkhead which is 3x2" studded partition construction faced with fireboard + tile to 1m height, then, and its this bit that thats the area of concern, from thereon, 18mm oak floorboards to ceiling. So...the question is: Is 8" okay from a ss flue to 18mm oak floorboards or am I going to immediately die in an inferno and I need to get a double skin flue ?

[Thread seal barbed hose fitting, yes or no ?]

Those Mikalor clips look really nice * . You've sent me down another wonderful rabbit hole !!. Make the Jubilee SS314 ones Ive got look like children's toys .. Price comparable as looks like definitely get only x1 on. Available here. 

 

*Yes, Im strange like that, I really do like them...suspect I might be in the right place on here?

[Thread seal barbed hose fitting, yes or no ?]

Thanks. Gotta love this forum. So much accumulated arcane knowledge and so many great tips ?

I'll: Fit without sealant, make sure clips are on the hose, orientate them, probably use 2 with heads at 180deg (because Im a two-clip kind of girl), warm the tube in boiling water, tighten with 7mm socket.  

[Thread seal barbed hose fitting, yes or no ?]

Should I put thread seal on barbed hose ?

 

Going to attach new car heater pipe (SAEJ20R3) to existing barbed hose connectors on engine and calorifier, locked down with SS jubilee clips.... Should I just jam hose on 'dry' ?, or should I put on a bit of thread seal (JetLube v-2) onto the male barbed hose connector before I put pipe on ? ... would it help seal or would it help hose come off !??

[cold water system layout]

Thanks Dave.

 

Thats a very neat setup !. Have you had any problems with 1/2" BSP female hose to male plastic Jabsco pump port insert connection ? - When Ive looked at my mine it looked like a likely point of weakness. So much effort on these things and then it all hinges on a 2p piece of plastic !!.

 

Im off now to the hunt around the darkest recesses of the garden shed for a perfect sized concrete slab so I can copy you !... 

[cold water system layout]

Thanks Dave, Would be interested to see photos.

 

Brummies, Unfortunately Ive removed everything !. Current state of boat as per photo below from last weekend ?

[cold water system layout]

30 minutes ago, DaveR said:

On Legacy we have the system you wish to go onto. It works without a problem as we have learned to say when going for a shower and the others onboard know not to open a tap wide. Slowly to fill a kettle is fine.

 

Because, like me, you have a dislike of the pump running whilst the other half is in bed I have fitted a second accumulator (only because I was offered it for free) and so have about 4 litres available before the pump cuts in.

 

I have just mounted the pump onto a solid concrete base (old thin paving slab) and connected said pump to the pipework with long flex hoses. Big reduction in noise but can still be heard throughout the boat. Pump fitted is a Jabsco Par Max     31620-0292       4.3/16.3

 

Dave

Thanks Dave, Cant tell you how helpful that is to know someone has tried this setup in practice and got it working  !!. Im going to set about it today. I'll do it as an 'experiment' and report back here if there are problems, but the advantages are: (i) K.I.S.S. -  easier to work out whats happening if goes wrong ?, (ii) Fewer connections / pipe joins - got to be a good thing, (iii) Because of (ii) a bit cheaper, (iv) Cant be totally bonkers because some manufacturer's recommend it, (v) Should be safe / no scalding risk if I use a thermostatic mixer on Shower which Im going to (I know lots dont and just use two standard taps becuase there's a TMV on the calorifier but I want to keep have separate regulation of shower temp)

 

How have you mounted pump to concrete slab - have you drilled and then used insert nuts ?

[cold water system layout]

ok think I know whats happening...its the TMV.  Sigmar Marine, Vetus and Webasto suggest what I was proposing (note past tense !) is okay iff no TMV. (see vetus setup 7 vs 9). But that makes me more confused about SureCal (which is what Ive got), their advice is to tee off for shower before calorifier ?? ?

[cold water system layout]

yes, I think its pressure issue. Webasto / Isotemp suggest same layout. Want tee at calorifier to split pressure equally to hot and cold demand (ideally). So Im thinking  go with the tried and tested (no great prob running 3 pipes up and down boat), but what about -- https://www.bes.co.uk/water-pressure-equalising-valve-16711 ???

[cold water system layout]

I often get up hours before wife ... want to be able to run taps etc without waking her 

[cold water system layout]

8 minutes ago, matty40s said:

You will find out why the first one works when you take a shower wanting hot water at a consistent temperature and pressure with your design.

?

Yes ... getting x1 pump to feed cold to shower and cold-in & hot-out to calorifier does concern me, but thats the way most people seem to do. Manufacturer advice is to tee off cold for shower before cold in to calorifier (see here), which is what Im proposing. Wouldnt a good quality thermostatic mixer valve on shower cope ??

 

(I can run electrics anywhere so thats not an issue for me. I want pump at bow because noise as bed will be at back.)

[cold water system layout]

Is there anything wrong with cold water system Im proposing - as per CAD drawing doodle below ?. What was previously on boat makes no sense to me - I think it was copied from Surecal advice a little too literally and involves cold water from tank to calorifier at back of boat and then back up all the way along the boat again !? - is there a good reason for doing it this way that Im missing ?. 

[surecal expansion tank position]

Thanks !. Is this better w.r.t. first shut off-tap ?

There is PRV and theromstat mixer factory fitted on the surecal, Ive only drawn from the hot take-off, apologies again for the CAD ?

How/where do I fit a pressure gauge ...

 

 

 

[surecal expansion tank position]

Thanks. Reassuring that scheme overall seems ok. In terms of implementation I was thinking about braided hose so as to: (i) reduce number of connections - seems like a good idea to me, and; (ii) provide some vibration isolation. Speedfit do a heavier duty hose (see pg 17) but it only terminates on union nuts and I was thinking SF less likely to vibrate loose than nut + ptfe + thread connection. Do most think that pipe origami with lots of elbows etc is better ??..Ive enc a drawing below... as you can see I have access to a multi-million pound CAD system (not). 

 

[surecal expansion tank position]

Re-plumbing soon. Going to get SureCal cauliflower  ?. Their install pdf shows : Hot Out -> "T" Split to hot taps -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> Shower hot.

 

Why not just : Hot out -> "T" to Expansion Tank -> "T" to Shower -> "T" to Taps , all in one long run (what I'd like to do) ???

 

In first case (what SureCal suggest) Expansion tank is NOT before first hot out taps ??. Anything wrong with what Im planning -- hate to ignore the OEM advice but it doesnt make sense to me ... which usually means Ive made a mistake somewhere ?!.

 

And on another dumb question note (!) - is there anything wrong with going with speedfit braided hose direct from the calorifier to first "T" ?