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Fergalb

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Posts posted by Fergalb

  1. 7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    You could seal the tank breather and cobble a tyre valve onto the breather and pressurise the tank but the problem is not anything leaking out, it is likely to be air leaking in and that is much harder to find..

    The maximum the lift pump will produce is about 6psi, then it just stops pumping.

    If the priming lever on the lift pump has lots of slack and very little pump when starting bleeding  then turn the engine over about  one full turn, then it should be lot of pump and little slack. If it goes slack while bleeding stop pumping so fast or open the bleed screw more. My students always primed too fast at first so I advised that they get mum to make them wear boxing gloves at night.

    First bleed point is the banjo union on top of the filter that holds the leak off pipe.

    Second bleed point is the 8mm hexagon on the SIDE of the pump body. Keep priming for at least 30 seconds after you think you have got rid of the air.

    Third belled point is the large unions on the injectors and spin the engine on the starter until they drip or spit. Only loosen a turn or less, no more

    Thanks again Tony for the tips I bet thats why I was pumping for so long lots of slack with little pump ;)

  2. Thats sounds like a plan just not looking forward to priming the system again :mellow: is there a way of pressure testing it and then look for leaks or listen for air escaping, would pumping the manual  pump build up compression or would it just force it into the injection pump, sorry for the silly questions this is my first diesel engine  I'm more used to outboards and V8's :D

  3. It has a manual pump on it thats how I bled it after changing the filters and cleaning the tank it took a  hell of a lot of pumping to fill it up so maybe it is sucking in air somewhere. Sometimes it takes up to half an hour before it will start up and other times it starts first turn of the key. At the end of the video you can see the temp jump up I thought that might be affecting the injector pump or the temp might just be going up because no water is being pumped when it's stoped.   

  4. 14 minutes ago, bizzard said:

    Looks nice and clean now. Looks like the bleed screw is missing on that filter unit. Yes, as you say a jury rigged tank would by-pass the pipework to and the fuel tank.

     

    14 minutes ago, bizzard said:

    Looks nice and clean now. Looks like the bleed screw is missing on that filter unit. Yes, as you say a jury rigged tank would by-pass the pipework to and the fuel tank.

    Yep she looks a bit better now compared to when I got her.

     

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  5. Thanks for the replies guy's, The tank was fully cleaned out and new fuel added " I did use road diesel not sure if the lack of sulphur would be a problem" I changed the filters on the left and right of the engine maybe I'll check them incase I missed something, a rig tank is a good idea should tell me if the problem is between the tank and the injector or the injector itself.

     

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  6. Thanks for the reply Tony, I ran it with the fuel cap off and it still stoped, 3/4 of a tank of fuel and all new filters, not sure about the strainer under the lift pump cap where would I find that, I just want to check everything before I take off any pipes as I found it a bit of a pig to bleed.  

  7. Hi all new here and new to BMC's hopefully someone can help me out, my engine runs fine on low revs but on the higher revs it cuts out, sometimes it seems like I have to wait till the engine cools down before it will restart and other times it starts back up. In the video you can see it trying to cut out at 3:43 min  and then at 7:30 min's it cuts out, after a bit of work I took out the thermostat to see if was because of overheating but it made no difference, getting 250 compression on all cylinders. This boat was under the water for 7 weeks but I'm not sure if that caused any damage.  Any help would be most welcome thanks.          

     

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