jacksonp_uk
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Posts posted by jacksonp_uk
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Hi
Is there anyone out there in the Ratcliffe on Soar area who is a bit of an expert on BMC 1.5 engines. My engine starts and runs fine but I cannot get rid of white (diesel smoke)(not excessive but enough to be annoying) during normal cruising 1600-1800rpm. I think the dynamic timing is out. I have fitted service exchange diesel pump and re-con injectors. This is beyond my limited tinkering knowledge. Have cleaned filter in lift pump and changed diesel filter.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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As the owner of nb "Fruit of The Vine", reviewed in Canalboat mag dec 2010, the Canaline 42 has proved to be a nost reliable engine. It has slightly more torque than the HMI Isuzu equivalent and otherwise perfoms in a similar way. From the DIY standpoint it is very easy to change the oil and filter. I had an initial problem, that turned out not to be an engine fault, and Bob Cantwell visited the boat with no hesitation and so can certainly vouch for their after sales service. Hope this helps.
Hi Keith (and all)
Thank you for your usefull feedback. It is very re-assurring. I certainly cannot find any negative comments about these engines up to now.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi
Can anyone give me any owners feed back on Canaline 38 engines? I am considering buying one to replace my BMC 1.5. It would just be interesting to know of someones real world experiences.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi Paul
I note that you have had the top off the engine before the problem started. I think you may have made one of the classic mistakes with the 1.5 - Did you put valve stem seals on the exhaust valves? If so these can , if you are unlucky, weld themselves onto the valve stem while the engine is hot and the exhaust valve stems even hotter! The result is that the rubber seal moves up and down with the valve stem and makes a near perfect pump to force oil mist and drops down the exhaust valve guides. If you take off the rocker cover and use a torch you should be able to see if the seals are stuck to the stems. If this is the case just post again and I will detail a method of removing the seals without taking the head off again.
Mike.
Hi Mike
I'm afraid I did put seals on all the valve stems! Your advice to rectify this would be appreciated. This sounds like a logical explanation to the symptoms to me.
cheers
Paul
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Hi
My BMC 1.5 Diesel narrowboat engine has started to lose oil via the exhaust main outlet pipe 4 hole flange gasket. Once the enigine is up to temp the oil almost sprays out! If i remove the oil fill cap the flow is reduced and also the breather pipe from the push rod cover. However it does not stop altogether. The engine runs and starts very well and the head gasket is ok. It is also not apparently burning any oil. I did a top end overhaul about a year ago as it was burning oil due to the valve stem seals. Any suggestions welcome please.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi
Is there anything special about the steel plate used to build (overplate) narrowboats? Will HR mild steel plate suffice?
regards
Paul Jackson
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Tony, you have lived long enough to know that what people call 'White Smoke' is in fact invariably unburned fuel.. "Opposite to the it's running direction" can usually be interpreted as 'Advancing'.. In cases like this everybody cries "Injectors" though in my experience it is not often the case.. Get everything else right, then think about injectors.
Hi folks
Thanks for your replies.
It is definitely white smoke. The fuel pump was not disturbed during the strip down process, nor were the injectors at first. To clean the injectors they were boiled in caustic solution for an hour. I checked that the small bypass holes were clear (two were definitely blocked before I started! All the injector parts were cleaned with carb cleaner and paper towel before careful re-assembly. The spring pressure noted on dissembly was half a full turn plus around 5 degrees more.
Just thought I ought to clarify what has been done.
cheers
Paul
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Hi any engine experts out thereI recently did a top end overhaul on my BMC 1.5 diesel engine. This was primarily to overcome a serious oil burning problem which developed over a 7 day cruise in late summer. I identified this as most likely being the seals on the valve stems failing. On strip down these seals had obviously detiorated. I replaced the seals, ground in the valves which were not too bad and took the oportunity to drill out a sheared glow plug stem. Re-sssembly went well with a new head gasket etc. Apart from the blue oil smoke the engine ran pretty well prior my efforts. On re-start I was delighted there was no sign of the dreaded blue smoke. However I am now faced with much more smoke of the unburnt diesel variety. I decided to check the injectors and having read up on it cleaned them in caustic soda solution and thought i had made a big improvement. However on re-assembly the deisel smoke is just as bad. The engine appears to be firing on all four cylinders because if I loosen the injector nut on any cylinder the engine will become lumpy and change tone.
As the engine ran OK before my strip down, I feel I must have caused the problem. Any ideas or tests I could try please.
cheers
Paul Jackson
Redhill
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Hi
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showuser=51 was a great help to me when I wanted some of this wood
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi Paul
On the back of the BMC block between the rocker cover and heat exchanger/exhaust there should be a plug (sometimes used for drain tap or temperature sensor), this is the the point where the take off to the calorifier should be made (hottest water - furthest point from thermostat, inlet and outlet). Only problem is where to take the return, back to the hot side of the keel tank? or the cold input to the engine pump? Rather depends on the system, load and overheating characteristics.
When you say you have connected it in series, how big are your pipes, there is a danger that the flow will be restricted. The water pump on a BMC is not very efficient and does not like a large head, so if the engine is run for any length of time you will probably find it overheats under load. This also explains why your not getting any flow as you will have to wait for the thermostat to open!
Its a good idea to include valves or isolators in the connections for serviceing/removing engine without having to drain off!
Best of luck.
Hi Robin
Having located and removed the plug in the BMC block I am struggling to identify what thread size this is. Do you know? If so are there any standard fittings that I could obtain or do you have to make something special to adapt to a 5/8" hose?
regards
Paul Jackson
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Hi Robin
Thank you for your advice. I am going to give this a try. Will let you know of outcome.
cheers
Paul J
Hi PaulOn the back of the BMC block between the rocker cover and heat exchanger/exhaust there should be a plug (sometimes used for drain tap or temperature sensor), this is the the point where the take off to the calorifier should be made (hottest water - furthest point from thermostat, inlet and outlet). Only problem is where to take the return, back to the hot side of the keel tank? or the cold input to the engine pump? Rather depends on the system, load and overheating characteristics.
When you say you have connected it in series, how big are your pipes, there is a danger that the flow will be restricted. The water pump on a BMC is not very efficient and does not like a large head, so if the engine is run for any length of time you will probably find it overheats under load. This also explains why your not getting any flow as you will have to wait for the thermostat to open!
Its a good idea to include valves or isolators in the connections for serviceing/removing engine without having to drain off!
Best of luck.
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Hi
I would like some advice on the correct way of piping in my new calorifier to my 1.5L BMC Diesel (Keel Cooled) powered narrowboat.
I have connected the single coil calorifier in series with the keel tank but don't get any flow through of coolant. Can anyone advise me on how and where the pipes should be connected to the header tank / engine / water pump please.
thank you
Paul Jackson
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Is the exhaust run sloping down from the exhaust skin outlet back to the manifold instead
of running down to the outlet ??
Could it be rain water getting through the skin outlet and dribbling back down towards the engine ?
Hi
Thanks for your advice. I think that rainwater from the outlet may well be a strong possibility. The exhaust system does slope back by 4.5" overal to the manifold connection. At present the boat is stern moored with the outlet very close to a pontoon. Last week there was some serious rain and the bilge had collected 4". I suppose it is possible that water running off the pontoon boarding could possible enter the outlet pipe. (Murphys law!) The quantity of water in the system would suggest to me that the engine would not have run at all last week and the water was clear. Also the header tank level has not dropped at all and there must have been 3 pints in the system.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi
I recently bought a 40ft narrowboat powered by a BMC 1.5L diesel with standard marinisation using dry exhaust. The original engine had been trashed by mechanics unknown and proved a basket case.
I obtained a second hand engine which looked pretty good. I fitted this engine and initially it ran well. After about twenty hours normal running the following occured. The boat was moored up while I was carrying out renovation work. Having flattened the batteries somewhat I ran the engine on tickover in order to recharge the batteries for about twenty minutes. I then noticed white smoke from the oil filler cap and immediately shut the engine off. Examination of the rocker cover and dip stick showed water emulsification of the engine oil. However the engine had not overheated and there was no significant visible water loss from the main coolant header tank.
Having been scratching my head for a few days to try and work out if this was a simple head gasket failure although there was no usual build up to this. Today I removed the exhaust pipe connection from the manifold. To my surprise there was about 3 pints of clean, clear water inside the exhaust system. The outlet to the exhaust is well above water line and I can see no reason how water could have entered from the outside.
The level of the outlet is about 4.5 inches above the height of the manifold connection. Is this OK, normal?
Can anyone advise me on this failure as I am a bit puzzled.
thank you
Paul Jackson
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Hi
I need to rebuild a toilet/shower room on my narrowboat and want to line the inside of the partitioning with a fully waterproof sheet of some kind.
Any suggestions for a thinish sheet material that can be used for this purpose. Plain white finish would be fine.
thank you
Paul J
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Of course I can help.
Where are you?
Hi
My narrowboat is based at Redhill Marina, Ratcliffe on Soar. We do travel to Shropshire from time to time in our work.
Where are you based?
regards
Paul Jackson
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The supplier doesnt but I can get it cut for you. You will have to buy the whole sheet though. It can be a bit of a bugger to cut as well as the coating is hard and can chip fairly easily
Hi
Thank you for your reply.
I actually need 2 sheets in order to get all the bits I require and these need cutting into 6 pieces.
If you are willing to help me how can we go about this?
cheers
Paul J
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Pheonel coated flooring is used in the commercial vehicle industry for flooring trucks etc. Its exactly as described with one face antslip, I have it right throughout the boat for flooring and a section of the deck as well. I can get it for £31 per 8 x 4 sheet @ 18mm thick (Comes in various thickness' 22mm is probably the most common for trucks but a bit heavy for the boat). But depends where you are of course.
Hi
Thanks for the info. That sounds a really good price. Does your supplier offer a cutting service as well?
regards
Paul Jackson
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Hi
I am planning to replace the plywood rear deck on my narrowboat. I have seen some material that I might like to use but do not know what it is or where to obtain it. It is brown in colour and looks a bit like Bakelite and has a circular embossed pattern on it.
Anyone know what I am trying to identify please?
cheers
Paul Jackson
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Hi
Have now got the engine with the sheared plug installed and running. Started very easily with only 3 plugs working...phew. Will have a go at removal when I get time in future.
cheers
Paul Jackson
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This is a common experience with the BMC 1.5 I did exactly the same thing to the engine in my boat. I was told by one engineer that it is possible to drill the tip out. Apparently it is actually a narrow tube made of very thin material inside which is a ceramic core carrying a fine filament, and offers little resistamnce to a sharp drill. Once drilled out you crank the engine and hopefoully blow the bits out. Needless to say I did not try it, and sucessfully managed to continue starting the engine for the next eight years on only three glow plugs. The engine was completely re-built last year and the broken tip was removed, however since the re-build I have noticed little improvement in starting the engine from cold. Moral - Leave the old tip in with the broken plug screwed into the head to seal it and don't worry about it unless starting becomes a real problem.
As a matter of interest the best way to remove the glowplugs from a BMC 1.5, and avoid breaking the tip, is to unscrew it about 1/12th of a turn and re-tighten , then unscrew 1/6th of a turn and re-tighten. Continue this appraoch at 1/12th intervals until the plug feels free, this process breaks up the carbon deposit which virtually glues the plug tip into the head.. Once out the hole should be reamed out with a 11/64 long shank drill, these are quite difficult to find and most people settle for 4mm long shank drill which is available from places like Screwfix.
Thanks David for your useful and detailed advice.
Paul J
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Hi
Anyone know a way to remove the tip of a glow plug that has sheared off when unscrewing the glow plug please? BMC 1.5L Diesel engine.
thanx
Paul Jackson
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Hi
I am just trying my luck to see if anyone based in the River Trent area (Nottingham end) can help me. I recently bought a narrowboat based in Huddersfield and have been trying to get it to a mooring I have secured at Ratcliffe on Soar. However multifarious mechanical mayhem on my journey leaves me about 10 miles short of destination at Stoke Bardolph lock. Many engine repair attempts have so far failed to get a reliable result. If anyone out there could offer me a tow to Ratcliffe at a covenient time to them I would be eternally grateful.
Bit cheeky I know but if you do not ask!
many thanks
Paul Jackson
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This engine uses a hydraulic governor and it will give all sorts of odd speed related problems if the fuel pressure goes awry.
1. Clean and change all water traps (including well hidden ones and the one in the top of the lift pump and filters.
2. Check the whole,fuel; system for secure and tight joints - air can cause this.
3. Check the non-return valve in the filter head is clean and free to move (Extra hexagon screwed into filter head by an IN arrow symbol.
4. Ensure tank breather is clear and free.
5 Feed engine from a can connected straight to the lift pump. If this cures the fault the pick up in the tank is probably blocked.
6. feed from a high level can directly into the engine filter. If this cures the fault the lift pump might be faulty - there is no logic to this one, but it has been known. And it did not reproduce the fault when the "faulty" pump was tried on another engine.
Try enthusiastically tapping the governor housing with the engine revving and throttle closed. They have been know to jamb - especially if water has got through the filter system. The governor is located between the throttle and stop lever on the injector pump.
Hope this helps
Tony Brooks
Hi Tony
Thanks for advice. After further experimentation I think the govenor valve may well be jamming abd the most likely cause of my grief. Do these things wear. If so which bits should be renewed? Or do you just strip and clean it all out?
thanks
Paul Jackson
Hi any engine experts out there
BMC engine expert?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Hi
No water loss. I,m sure it is diesel smoke.
cheers
Paul