tonyhay
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Posts posted by tonyhay
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Obviously you would need to do your own calculations but looking at the only figures I have to hand Larch (admittedly American rather than European or Japanese grown in Europe) it seems a little stronger.
Thanks. i should pop down to the British Library and see what reference books I can find regarding material properties. Tony
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We have Three sets in Circus field! Specify them as clear Douglas Fir or Oregon Pine or similar together with the dimensions. Check your existing set are all the same length- some stop logs taper vertically. Sawn timber is fine, you may need a little ash to get a good seal. The important dimensions are length and thickness so if the width you have is currently difficult then more but narrower planks is OK.
The Aylesbury ones were supplied by Greenford so a call to them might elicit details of their timber merchant. If not try Snows in Glastonbury, Robbins in Bristol, Timbmet Oxford or Fitchett and Wallacot Nottingham. Depends where you are really.
HtH
N
Thanks for the excellent advice. I'll start googling and follow up on your suggestions. Tony
Maybe contact CRT they have been making lots of new ones out of wood.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have contacted CRT but I'm looking for competitive quotes. Tony
Was thinking by time youve sorced wood and shaped you might have spent sim to metal??
You could always try covering in fiberglass till you have sorced a new set??
I did think this but wasnt sure if the full on just nick them approach was the correct way to go.
I'd never thought of covering them in fibreglass - thanks for the suggestion! Tony
As another option.
Worsley have a wooden gate, without hinges. Just about neutral buoyancy and is folded down as if it has a hinge along the bottom but is actually free floating. Seals a treat with only a tiny bit of ash. Simple paddles in gate to reflood.
Can vote for robins timber, certainly for quality boat buidling timber. The Douglas Fir they supplied didnt look like he same tree as the Douglas from our local merchant.
Daniel
Thanks for suggesting Robins Timber. I'll check them out. Tony
Can I ask why Douglas Fir is recommended. I have always understood Larch was the best softwood for damp/wet conditions and is indeed what our local sawmill recommends.
The one quote that I have is for Douglas Fir. I haven't done any load calculations, but the bottom plank will be under considerable strain - does Larch have the same strength as Douglas Fir? Tony
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Many thanks to Laurence, Sarah, Dan, Billy Bob, fadetoscarlet and ditchcrawler for your excellent advice and comments. Steel gates or planks would be ideal ... except I that have a limited budget and a dry dock manager chasing me. It's wood or nothing.
Any advice on how to specify replacement wooden stop planks would be gratefully received.
Tony
ps Sarah - we'll probably turn the old planks into retaining walls for the garden, though a big bonfire would be more fun!
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I need to replace the stop planks on our dry dock - the existing ones are 15+ years old and leak badly.
I believe that I will need planks made from high grade Douglas Fir, but I'm not sure whether I will need green wood or seasoned wood, or whether there are any other special requirements.
I would appreciate advice from any forum member with dry dock experience.
Dry dock stop planks - advice requested
in History & Heritage
Posted
Thanks for the lead.
Our existing planks have recessed lifting rings which are held by recessed coach bolts. They float but only just!
Completely agree. Our current planks do this, so I need to ensure that the replacements do too. Tony