j04n
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Posts posted by j04n
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2 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
Well I suspect because of slightly different resistances of the 0v wire of different cables and in particular the connectors thereon.
One problem is that you are dealing with a shunt that has a very small resistance. It is designed to drop 50 or 75 millivolts at 500 amps, ie the resistance is 0.0001 ohms. A normal multimeter can’t distinguish between a direct connection and that sort of resistance in a circuit.
The problem will lie in one of the various 0v or shunt wires, and there are only 4 of them. I’d depower the MICC and disconnect those wires one at a time to check for continuity, ensure connection surfaces are clean and bright. We are talking about the wires on MICC pins 2,3,4 and 6.
Thanks very much nick! sounds logical and worth a try before giving up on it. ?
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31 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
I would say the issue is to do with the negative (0v) wiring of the MICC and or shunt. In other words, the equipment hasn’t been installed correctly.
When you connect the RJ12 lead you are creating an additional connection between the 0v of the MICC and the 0v of the Combi. These of course should be at the same voltage ( 0v) and hence it shouldn’t make any difference. But if the MICC negative supply is connected to the wrong side of the shunt or some such other error, there will be a slight voltage difference between the two negative connections when current flows. I suspect that this slight voltage difference is causing current flow through the additional 0v connection (the RJ12 lead) which is what is causing the problem.
I suggest checking the MICC wiring very carefully, for compliance with the MICC manual’s wiring diagram. In particular check that the ONLY thing that is connected to any domestic battery negative terminals (apart from each other) is the battery side of the shunt, and the single wire that is the shunt battery side sense wire ( to terminal 4 on the MICC). Also be sure that the domestic battery negative terminals are not connected to the engine battery negative. There is definitely a wiring error somewhere!
I saw your last post first! ? thank you for taking the time to reply. all comments are greatly appreciated. I have checked the wiring several times and all seems good. unless there is a bad connection or split wire. I don't understand why different cables should have a different effect?
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8 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
No. Wow some people (well two on here) seem quick to take offence. If you actually read what I said then clearly was absolutely not applying to you. The exact opposite in fact. But maybe you enjoy being offended, it seems a popular pastime on here?
Anyway I have gone to considerable effort to explain to you what the problem with your system is. You don’t seem interested in that issue, only the possibility that you might have been slighted. I’ll leave you to your incorrectly wired system. Enjoy.
No offence taken here! I found it funny actually but forgot to put a smiley! ??
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12 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
If you are an actual boater, not just some floating flat dweller who grudging has to move to keep CRT off their backs, then there is no rush to charge the batteries. A nice 8 hour cruise is plenty of time. Charging batteries more quickly shortens their life.
I've completed 450 miles since July and we've been locked down for a month in that time so I take it you weren't talking to me!
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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Didn't think of that.
But, I still dont see why you would not want to use all sources possible to recharge as quickly as possible, when to turn off the battery charger would mean having to run the engine for much longer.
Anyway, you answered my question (thank you) and it is your boat to do with as you wish.
I've installed lithium cells so if going on a long cruise I won't need both. I can just switch the charger off but then I loose 240v with the way it has been wired. not the end of the world as the inverter would automatically kick in but then risk arriving at my destination with depleted batteries. Not flat as the alternator still charging. I can work around it just I like things working properly. Especially when they cost so much. I didn't buy it, it was already on the boat.
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When I'm out cruising and moored off grid using travel power which drives the charger as well as using the alternator to charge the batteries.
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This is one of those 5 year projects where you dabble, fail to rectify the issue, convince yourself it's not important, due to potential cost, leave it a while, come back to it n round we go again n again n again!!
now it's back up there since changing my batteries!
MICC has never counted amps back in correctly until one day whilst fault finding I disconnected the RJ12 remote cable and the recorded charge amps increased by about 30 amps! This explained the amps I was loosing and all was good once again in paradise. All it meant was that I could not select inverter/ charger manually but I quite liked everything working automatically. Until now, when I've decided there are occasions when it would be useful to manually disconnect the charger and only have alternator charging. I contacted mastervolt and explained the problem but they replied that the RJ12 lead only allows for remote control of the mass combi and should not effect in anyway the amps counted at the shunt. So i thought the cable was maybe defectective so bought a new one. If it wasn't I could always connect it to the additional optional port.
So, this is what I found;
Charge amps recorded on MICC with RJ12 lead disconnected 97 amps.
Charge amps with old RJ12 lead connected 70 amps.
Charge amps with new RJ12 lead connected 85 amps.
Charge amps with new RJ12 lead and old RJ12 lead connected to the optional port 85 amps.
The new lead is better but it will still result in the count being way out very quickly. It looks like if I want an accurate count I'm going to have to loose the RJ12 lead and the remote control function but before I do has anybody come across the same issue and found a fix?
Thanks in advance! ?
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9 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Did the weed hatch leak if you couldn't tighten it down
No, the weed hatch could be tightened down onto the surround ok. The anti cavitation plate was rattling around because the handle was not tight to the underside of the weed hatch cover due to being 10mm too short.
3 hours ago, WotEver said:Great
It’s only taken you 20 months... you should work at a boat yard
? sorry, been working in Hungary for 2 years so a little out of touch! ?
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Problem solved! I fitted some 15mm spacers under the engine mounts in order to minimise engine movement and vibration but actually the main problem was the weed hatch anti cavitation plate. The handle was 10mm short of the weed hatch cover plate so it was impossible to tighten it down!! I did find the problem 2 years ago but forgot to feedback in case it is of any help for anybody having a similar problem. She sounds soooooo sweet now.
Unlike the bag of spanners before. The original owner must have put up with it for 7 years from new!!
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All charges dropped. Which was the fair and right result. thanks for all the comments. Its always a right mix bag on here! ??
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9 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:
I might offer to pay half of what they were asking, in full and final settlement
I tend to agree but not one month of two. I was thinking half of April as it will be off tomorrow.
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I was told by the marina to stay away! seems I should have just ignored them and taken it off. It would have suited me tbh but thought I was doing the right thing.
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I didn't agree to pay anything as
I gave notice to leave but I was told to stay away from the Marina. Thanks for your comment! ?
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I would be grateful if anybody could offer any advice before I consider legal advice in case my current predicament gets messy.
I gave notice to the Marina my boat is currently moored in early February that I would be leaving at the end of March as I had lost my job in December. My plan was to embark on my last cruise before selling my boat. Love the boat but have found Im either working and have no time to enjoy it or out of work and cant really afford it!
Anyway, a week before I was due to leave the Marina we went into lock down and as a leisure boater I was told, as we all were, to stay away from our boats and the Marina. I rang the Marina and reminded them that I was due to leave in a week and not in a position to continue paying so if necessary I would have to visit the Marina in order to remove my boat. Despite several phone calls this was never confirmed until last Friday. The Marina head office confirmed that in light of the current situation they had very generously offered me a reduced monthly mooring charge. Which it wasnt! It was exactly what I had been paying but divided by 12. You could argue at least it was not the advertised daily rate! I politely declined the offer and said that I would visit my boat tomorrow in order to remove my boat from the Marina. Two hours later a received another email presenting me with two mooring invoices, one for April and one for May!
Again, I have politely declined the generous offer stating at no time, despite my repeated requests, did the Marina confirm their position or give me the opportunity to remove my boat. I appreciate that my boat has been moored in a secure location and others who have committed to stay on the Marina for another 12 months will have had to pay despite also not being able to attend their boats but I cant help but feel my position is a little different as I have just been waiting to get off.
In light of the ultimatum I have been given from the Marina I have informed them that I will be attending my boat tomorrow in order to remove it from the Marina but would appreciate opinions on the presented invoices? I guess they will be mixed. Should I just pay and put it down to experience or do you agree that I have a case and that the Marina has been unreasonable?
Thanks in advance for your comments. Stay Safe everybody.
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ok, will do. Thanks.
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thanks. i did give it a good rive around when I was realigning the engine and had it disconnected and it seemed solid. i could also pull the two ends almost together when the flexible coupling was removed. although i was wasn't very systematic. Will probably be worth going through it all again but in a more systematic approach. thought I'd sorted it when I found that the engine was out of alignment, not massively but out nevertheless but unfortunately not.
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it's coming out the water next year for blackening so will have a look then........ although was hoping to get some quieter cruising in before then!
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I'll certainly give that a go, thanks.
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not since realigning the engine but i will check.
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it's more of a clonk than rattle and becomes more violent at high revs. However, it is more of a rattle in reverse......... if that makes any sense. no prop jams during the last 3 years I've had it.
the frequency doesn't seem to increase with engine revs only the severity.
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honestly, all advice is greatly received as I don't know hence asking on here. The engine has only done 350 hours, which again is no reason to discount it I know. Also when i nip up the stern gland, a little tighter than what i feel i should, the rattle all but stops for approximately 3 hours cruising, which leads me to think, maybe wrongly, that it is an alignment problem.
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it could be moved but maybe only 6 inches without re engineering the black water tank. i boxed the engine in with sound proofing but that can easily be moved. it is a poor layout as actually there is masses of space only taken up with fresh water tank, waste water tank and engine all in line. When actually tanks could have been mounted either side. Although that would limit access to engine i guess.
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lol! I take it when you mention solid mounting the engine you would still leave the flexible ish coupling in line?
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i hear you but there is the small matter of the exhaust manifold being hard up against the floor soundproofing.
I know it's impossible to precise but anyway of describing how much more vibration there's likely to be? are we talking teeth chattering uncontrollably, plates walking off shelves, or........? cheers
Mastervolt MICC amps counting wrong
in Boat Equipment
Posted
thanks again nick! ?