Gordon Munk
-
Posts
40 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Gordon Munk
-
-
What sort of compressor do I need to run these beasts, just picked up at a boot sale?
I'd guess it would have to be electirc, it's unlikely I would have the engineering skip to run one from my engine.
The long trumpet is 75cm long.
-
I had a conversation with Chris at Liver Grease about the difficulty of obtaining Plastumen (another Keay's product) which is a very useful filler - a sort of cold chalico, and he said that if you could give him a sample of whatever you needed he could reproduce it.
-
Tar so it is coal roof tar efectivly then?
Going on dock hopefully feb and taking a week off at the end to do all the jobs like blacking and any corking and repitching that needs doing after the rest of the work is done
Unlikely, coal tar is a restricted substance. Roof tar (or any tar sold for roofing) will be a bituminous compound.
Mind I have mixed solid bitumen and coal tar before without the sky dropping in as a substitute for proper pitch (also difficult to obtain, again Liver Grease)
Coal tar is still produced as a by-product from steel making. The coal is converted to coke for the blast furnace, the tar is in effect a waste product from this process. I understand Liver Grease get their tar this way. Unfortunately steel making in this country is likely to disappear very soon so supplies will dry up. Get some stock in while you can. It was used for boats years ago because it was a free/cheap product from any local gas works up until "North Sea Gas" about 1970.
Bill
It's not necessarily the best product for boats in this day and age but if it has been used then it should either be used again or it needs removing completely.
It's also worth noting (in the light of a hot September) that it photo-sensitises the skin and can cause awful sunburn. Excuse the pun.
My preferred preparation for black wooden hulls is a good soaking in creosote (soaks in) followed by a coating of tar (sits on top).
-
Ibcan get hold of both roof tar and Stockholm tar can get them borh for around £100 for 10L but ill keep surching now i know its def Stockholm tar i need. I have a L of roof tar around in the boat i think as its too solid to be Stockholm think it was used to patch the bottom.
I am not sure why you think you need Stockholm tar. If it is to maintain the tar coating on a wooden narrow boat it's coal tar you need.
Some boats were coated using a compound called Imperial number one, which is bituminous based but obsolete now, once made by Keays of (?bloxwich ). This is not compatible and requires the rcomplete removal of a tar coating, or vice versa.
Liver Grease is the supplier I use.
-
You seem slightly confused as to where Ireland is. 'Going around the Cornish coast' wouldn't be my favoured passage.Should be an interesting trip :
Directly crossing the busiest shipping lane in the world
A Dutch Barge going down the UK inland waterway system in which it may (or may not) 'fit' (a combination of air draft & beam)
Going out onto the Bristol Channel with the biggest tides in the country
Going around the Cornish coast and across to Ireland.
With a boat of unknown history, engine servicing, fuel cleanliness etc.
A boat with unknown navigation equipment
With a crew of unknown abilities or qualifications.
I would suggest that if the OP gave a little more detail about both the boat and the crew he may get some more positive replies.
Together with your confusion about the location of Ireland, you also seem to be in some misapprehension about the sailor's attitude to tides. I take it you are under the illusion the Bristol Channel wasn't used until the invention of fast diesel-engined boats?Looking at the Almanac Tidal Streams it seems they can run up to 8+ knots - not much fun trying to go anywhere in a boat that does (say) 8 knots
fat finger edit.
-
Can't be bothered mate, you're right, it never happened.
-
Since they were added in the 1970s.
You seem to be trying to pick an argument. Can I ask why?
-
Thats only viable on true houseboats, i.e. boats where self-propulsion is something the owners have only read about in books.
Not at all. I've seen this as a very efficient way of overplating a BCN day boat, the steel tray was fitted to the iron above the waterline. I guess it became a bit wider but one a wide boat that's not a problem,
The boat was called Leviathan and was notorious for a while for the style of it's interior.
It took 3 welders a day to make the tray, the boat was floated into the dock and lowered into the tray.
Edited for spelling
-
I think you'll find a bike inside a 30' boat more annoying than even a boyfriend.
The advice to build a rack outside is a good one, if you don't want to expose it to the elements, get a cover, fit a zip and even the spiders might leave it alone. And a Top Tip, get folding pedals, it will save gouges in flesh as you move around it.
-
One of the the easiest ways to deal with a boat like this is to build a 'tray' and drop the whole boat into it. it's a relatively cheap way of renewing the whole hull.
From your pictures it doesn't look any worse than you'd expect in such regions. A hull survey or a good going over by a fabricator would be the next logical step. How easily do the floors come up?
-
Put up a permanent double cross bed at the front (and don't bother with access through the front except pin an emergency). Then only 4'6" of linear space used - and no need to "assemble" every night. Run a couple of curtains across so you can isolate it / make a draped feature / make it snug (for the cats). Obviously with drawers beneath and cupboards above)
Similar to this permanent bed one end, put bulkheads ( always useful, bulkheads) so that there's around 2'6" for an opening. voila, bedroom 6' used. You've probably got 18' left for the rest if you bought a boat with small decks. Budget the next 4' for bathroom, then 14' left for open plan galley and saloon.
So yes, it can be done. Whereas on a canal 30' is short, on river and sea boats it's quite normal and also normal to have a closed area forward for the main berth.
-
I would say it is fairly normal for an old engine to need a few extra revs whilst warming up
Wanted - Brunton Gearbox Manual
in National/Russell Newbery
Posted
Given that it's general a crown gear and pinion, you could always change the ratio.