Gordon Munk
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Posts posted by Gordon Munk
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try it with an old fashioned light bulb on at the same time
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it will drain down of its own accord, it's not a sealed system and being raw water will start its own refilling once the engine is started again.
ie no action is required.
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Get yourself a GSE. Move out of the marina to a towpath mooring near a road and get him to do the work there, or just connect the cut gas pipe back up and off you go for another 4 years.
Neil
This is good advice. it introduces two unnecessary joints that will have to be addressed next BSC but by that time you'll know a bit. If he made just one cut then it's only one joint and an easy DIY, but, if he was competent he will have blanked both ends and you'll have to let a piece in but still not difficult, around 10 minutes work and easily achieved on your trip. if you post itinerary here I am sure someone will help.
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In the context of this debate I found this paper interesting and informative:
Paragraph 21 in particular is interesting as it suggests that the burden of proof that a contract limitation or exclusion clause is "fair and reasonable" will always lie with the party seeking to rely on it. In the absence of such proof the term will inevitably be found unfair.
Nice.
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Late to the party as usual, but hey-ho! Seems to me that there's two main arguments happening here (and a number of minor arguments too) and it's all getting muddled up together.
Argument 1: Was the owner/operator of the lightship in the right or in the wrong?
Answer: Well we don't really know, do we? He should pay what he owes but we don't fully know why he hasn't paid, yet. Having said that, a boater getting behind on mooring fees can't be all that unusual, can it? There seems to be some kind of safety issue but nothing specific. if it's to do with customers on the ship being at risk then that's for the council/HSE (or possibly the MCA) to deal with not CRT.
Argument 2: Was CRT in the right or in the wrong?
Answer: This is where people on here seem to be getting things a bit muddled, when they defend CRTs response purely on the basis of the ship's owner being in the wrong. Effectively giving carte blanche to CRT to act however they choose. This is a very dangerous road to pursue. The key point is, did CRT act lawfully in removing the vessel, by sea, to Sharpness? To my mind, they'd better have a damn good defence up their sleeve because I cannot see how they can possibly have lawful authority to be towing a privately owned vessel out to sea, against the owner's wishes! Whether or not the owner had done wrong is irrelevant to this, we simply cannot have CRT acting beyond their powers so flagrantly. If they can do this to this boat, without due process or lawful authority, then they could do it to your boat!
(Other arguments in this thread include: are old boats worth preserving for their own sake? is T.D. a bit too blinkered? Are all scousers to be distrusted?
Answers: Yes, possibly, no.
Exactly so. It seems a lot of the arguments on this thread are either 1, If CRT does it must be right - the 'no smoke without fire; argument, 2, If Tony Dunkley supports it, it must be wrong and 3. if the owner did bad then he deserves whatever CRT do, illegal or not.
In response to 3, it seems to me that no matter what the wrongs of the individual, there is an onus of CRT to act with absolute probity.
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I didn't miss it. Any Tom, Dick or Harry could write that in an email, doesn't mean it is true.
Presumably, if CRT are in any doubt about Tony's authority from the owner, they only have to ask for credentials.
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What makes you think that CRT have to prove anything to you?
I am a little surprised that they are communicating with you at all in fact as this case has bugger all to do with you!
You may have missed this bit;
I am authorized and appointed by the owner, Mr Alan Roberts, to act on his behalf in any and all matters concerning the above named vessel.
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MSW and you're not about to get it for £64
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OK (and I paraphrase here), I believe that you said that their detention of the vessel was lawful, but the moment that it passed off their waterways it became unlawful and you suggested legislation that made that the case.
Could I invite you to expand upon that position;
- Could they lawfully detain the vessel?
- Could they lawfully move the vessel?
- Is there an extent of movement that makes it unlawful, and what is the trigger for it becoming unlawful?
- What legislative provision supports that view?
How about..... instead of starting an enjoyable but pointless fight with Tony Dunkley you put your not inconsiderable learning and intelligence into an examination of the extremely valid points that Nigel Moore has made?
Or do you simply believe the maxim that if CRT did it, it must be right?
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I'm pondering this very issue at the moment
These are cheap:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131825300999?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This might be better:
Richard
The first would involve a whole load more faff.
The 2nd is great, I have one, it doesn't charge my iPad or iPhone 5 but I have heard they work for others.
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Why would you possibly want to remove the 4LW and replace it with something modern...... That's like owning a Ferrari and then trading it in for a Lada Lol.
I am In Holland over the weekend and will check with a few of the old engine guys as to what oil they run them on. There are many Kromhout built Gardner's still in use there so the oil must still be available on the continent. The ideal oil would be and SAE 30 at API/CC (Stated as MIL-L-2104B). However the manuals for the LW's does also state that although obsolete at the time of writing (Manual i'm looking at is 1970) that an MIL-L2014A is suitable and that is an API/CB and basically states that if fuel oil sulphur content exceeds 0.5% then the oil will need changing as shorter intervals if using the API/CB
Ta
Martyn
Thanks Martyn, that's very useful and I look forward to your findings. As you say, there are many such engines on the continent.
What I have found less of is people that care what oil they put in their engines.
incidentally it's not Ferrari versus Lada, and I understand the comparison (maybe BMW vs Skoda?) it's the size of the bloody thing and the absence of knowledgeable vintage engineers.
There will be another thread soon about vibration....
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I really don't understand the obsession with "must not be able to reach the prop".
If, like us, you have a working boat, the usual place to attach a line is to the "back end rail", on the front of the engine room. If you limited yourself to a line that could not reach the prop, it would probably need to be no more than 15 feet long (approx!), and would not be fit for purpose, (and certainly couldn't be used to strap the boat to a halt).
The trick is not to have an unduly short line - the trick is to keep it correctly stowed when not in use, and to ensure it never goes anywhere near the prop.
Are you also going to specify a rear line so short it can't reach the prop? (Yes, I know it should not be permanently deployed, but when it has to be, what then?.....)
Where on are your rear studs/bollards relative to your prop that a 3 metre rope will not reach the latter? It would do so with ease on any boat I have owned.
Or are you saying it will reach it, but there is probably not enough length that it will be able to wind on enough to stall the engine?
That widens the discussion in an interesting fashion. My back end line is around 15 feet long (not sure exactly as I can't see it at the moment) and I find it long enough to do all the things I need to, including strapping the boat to a halt. I wouldn't really want a longer rope there. What's the 'traditional' length for this line - if in fact there was any standard?
though, on reflection, I remember it being long enough to reach the prop but not long enough to firmly fix itself !
(if I add on a river 100m upstream of a weir, you'll get a picture of one of my less competent boating moments and the relief that going into neutral and pulling hard released the rope)
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What exactly is the penalty for being on the Bridgewater in breach of this 'regulation'?
I.e. what's the penalty for telling this little man to 'do one' and carrying on anyway.
It seems that if Peel Holdings are so slack responding to their customers communication then there is no particular imperative to respond to them.
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I am seriously tempted to lift out the 4LW and sell it in the UK and replace with a nice compact modern engine. But importing oil? it's a lot of hassle if it's available here.
It's difficult to tell whether the members Jenevers ( I now know where she can get oil from ) or Martyn 1 ( if CA/CB is acceptable) are still active.EDIT: Sorry, le politique.
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This is not aimed directly at the OP, but for umptenth time that I an a couple of other have said this on this forum, API CF is not API CC and is wrong for a Gardner or Lister JP.......
The more modern detergent oils although may well be SAE30 are not the correct oil as the engines have poor to virtually no oil filtration and the higher detergent oil carry all the crap straight round the engine but with no filter to catch it just isnt good.
As Frangar has already mentioned the widely accepted correct oil for the Gardner's / Lister JP's is the Morris goldenfilm oil which are easily available online and and most chandlers
I am guessing the OP may be in France because it seems that in oils available for 'véhicules anciennes' are either CF or CA/CB and no sign of CC or CD. Would CA/CB be suitable for a late '50s early '60s Gardner 4LW?
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Thanks for the advice. My problem is I'm not in the UK, so I can't get Morris's Golden Film oil.
So is the SAE 30 API SF/CC/CD oil I mentioned OK?
A thread corpse-reviving I know, but did you ever resolve this? ( which country?)
Alternatively a source of API CC / CD in France
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Scarey thread. We had a woodburner in the house many years ago. We burned anything in it that would burn
Scarey? Or scaremongering?
Toxic ash? I must make a note to stop eating it.
Small amounts of treated wood as kindling are absolutely no problem.
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That will be a 'no' then.
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I've just stumbled onto the Vitrifrigo C39i Boat & Caravan 2 Way Compressor Fridge
It the same as the Shoreline Small Fridge - R39, even the photos the same.
Does anyone know if these are good fridges? They use the Danfoss BD 35 compressor which seems the best.
I've got one, it's great in that the compressor can be mounted remotely and it's small. I have to say for £500 worth of kit the build quality is pretty crap but all the ones I looked at were similar. I replaced the fan with a super-quiet computer fan and it is very quiet now.
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Taylor's diesel or paraffin. Mutt's danglies, very easy to install and run, self contained. I prefer the diesel as the paraffin is pressurised. Totally suitable for GRP.
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Then there's something a little odd, my Brunton gear wheel is less than a full turn forward to reverse with the original GU crown gear and not at all heavy. Although it takes a bit of a kick to engage fully, there is no straining.
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not one of them, the slightly puzzling thing about the stamps is that both have 906 and neither have any differentiation ( note, length).
they are a much later era, chrome, much thinner waist and one piece including the front of the sound chamber
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I have one like that as part of a plastic horn I bought and it is pretty loud, I'm tempted to try it out if I can dismantle it without breaking it.
Are there any markings on them?
Richard
There's no makers name, just E2 in a circle and 906 stamped into the (integral) bracket.
and on closer examination each has a small ( abandoned) wasps nest in the bell.
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If you do fit them, will you have one horn pointing at yourself? It hardly seems fair to inflict them on others without sharing the experience with them
Those horns are VERY LOUD
Richard
I'm tempted to put one on my motorbike ;--)
I very much doubt that would do the job. You'd end up with it winding up to a disappointing and short trump.
You really need a set up like trucks use, with an air tank and a heavy duty DC compressor to keep it topped up via a pressure switch.
Sadly trucks tend to use 24 Volts DC, although there are a few specialists around who do a 12V version I have one, but it wasn't cheap.
........... assuming of course that they are air and not just electric?
do you have some figures? like volume and pressure?
They are air, they have the input spigot, though I have no idea whether they work, one spigot is currently blocked.
another buoy in the Severn
in General Boating
Posted
A Canal & River Trust spokesperson said: The submerged metalwork in the River Severn at Diglis is outside of the navigable channel."