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SUIGENERIS

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Posts posted by SUIGENERIS

  1. Hi. Kieron

     

    I am guessing from your boat name and the engine description you are running a Coventry Victor. HDW 2 which was marketed as a "Victor Vixen" engine. They were fitted into a lot of Board of Trade approved lifeboats.

     

    There were indeed "valve guide seal pads" in that design of engine. The part number was N 1176/A and there used to be a site on the web for Coventry Victor with some spares available. Whether that still exists I have no idea. If not available I guess you just have to bodge it with some caulking string.

     

    I do have a servicing manual and parts list of about 80 pages with quite good drawings and could perhaps get it copied for you if it helps.

     

    Let me know. via a personal message. Cheers. Mick

  2. I have never retired my old battery drills because the batteries have expired, I wire them up to crocodile clips and use them off the boat's battery bank. Even have a small motorcycle battery that can be carried about when I need them away from the permanent source.

     

    Cheers. Mick

  3. Hi Neil. Gald to hear it is nearing fruition.

    I had mine tested in Essex too, out of the water . I had Lee Freeman come down to me. You will find him on the list of BSS examiners. He is in Northamptonshire but is happy to travel as long as you cover the extra cost of his fuel. He has tested our boats several times over the years and is a very competent examiner. Cheers. Mick

  4. Very often builders build the boat with the base plate stood on a concrete floor. In which case they weld any joints in the base plate from above. In most cases the weld is sufficiently penetrating for there to be little cavity between the plates if viewed from below. however sometimes the penetration is less and that is more often the case where a thicker base plate has been specified.

     

    Some builders have no means to lift a boat hull sufficiently to make an external weld, so the boat is despatched with a slight void existing between the plates.

     

    If the surveyor thinks it needs doing, then it probably does!

     

    Mick.

  5. Hi.

     

    Although not that local to you I found a company called Protective Textile Co. at Chessington, west of London to be brilliant.

    They made a complicated cover for our boat at half the cost of other quotes,

    It was in the best quality material, made in less than two weeks, ( whereas I had been quoted up to three months by others). They will send them out to you too.

     

    They made mine absolutely exactly to the plan I sent them. I marked all the measurements, including zips, eyelets, fasteners etc on a scaled drawing, and it fitted perfectly. The quality of workmanship was excellent. and the price astonishingly low.

     

    They make covers for all sorts of equipment and vehicles.

     

    Check out their website; www.protectivetextile.co.uk.

     

    Cheers. Mick

  6. I have included 4 additional roof vents ( ecs type) set about 6 inches in from the sides of the roof, two at the bow and two at the stern, they are ducted with 9" x 1" plastic vent duct , via flat elbow adaptors ( all from toolstation ) running within the wall cavity down to the bilge area below the floor. this ensures a circulation of air. Seems to work well.

     

    Mick

  7. I have one of these fitted and as I understand it the aquadrive has the thrust carried on to two ( on bigger ones more) rubber pads which locate the thrust bearing in alignment with the shaft. Then there is a CV joint between that and the engine/gearbox which can accomodate quite a considerable lack of alignment of the engine. But if the thrust plate or the rubber pads are defective then the shaft is flexing and could easily be the cause of the wear on the stern tube.

  8. Thanks to those who responded with advice.

     

    Enquiries to various makers indicated a general price concensus and several months waiting, as well as a reluctance to make something based on my scale drawings.

     

    However, searching the net, I did find a brilliant maker down in Kingston on Thames, The Protective Textile Company, they beat the best price by 25% , made it up in just 3 weeks and it is to an excellent standard, perfectly made to my scale drawings , made in an excellent material and all done without any fuss at all.

     

    Highly recommended!

     

    Cheers. Mick

  9. When my hook and loop backing pads stop holding on , I replace them by cutting new hook and loop ( velcro) covering from a roll i bought on ebay, it is 4" wide and and came in a metre length very cheaply. I stick it on to the pad with evo stik contact adhesive. It has proven a very cheap and efficient way to avoid the exorbitant costs of replacement backing pads.

     

    Mick

    • Greenie 3
  10. The VTH as I understand was set up to run at a variety of governed speeds, relating to customers required horsepower before leaving the factory, although the governor is variable to enable lesser speeds,

     

    The hp is equivalent to one per 100 revolutions max, so if the manufacturers plate on the side stated 10 hp it was governed to run at 1000 rpm max, otherwise at 15 hp governed to 1500 max, and all stations in between !

     

    I am in the same situation as casper ghost, because I am running a 2 VTH too, I am always prepared to put one aside for spares if the price happens to be right.

     

    I guess we will have to keep an eye out for it coming up for auction

     

    Cheers. Mick

  11. Thanks ,everybody

     

    , When I get around to rebuilding the JP I shall have to consider a ring gear then from MPS or others, but it was just that I saw the FR3 bare block on ebay at £100 and thought it might be an interchangeable size. I presently have a Ruston 2VTH that's big enough for my 50 footer, but the JP keeps my interest!

     

    Have to say this site is brilliant, and so many knowlegable people.

     

    Cheers. mick.

  12. You could try oxalic acid solution , it used to be the main ingredient in a product called colourback supplied by one of the marine paint companies. It is used in bee-keeping now. So a search on google might find an easy supply.

     

    Has certainly worked for me on my hardwood cabin sides on a sea boat.

     

    It also works well on rust stains. I think it is in jenolite rust treatment too.

     

    Of course handle with usual caution as an acid.

  13. Hi. I am new to this forum so forgive me if this has already been discussed.

     

    I have a JP2 ( actually badged a CS18/2M ) which of course is only a handstart.

    Does anyone know whether there is any compatability with the FR 2 or 3 Flywheel as it might just be an inexpensive way to get a ring gear to add an electric start.

     

    Many thanks. Mick.

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