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ukdiggerboy

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Posts posted by ukdiggerboy

  1. heres a couple more of the lining and around the front frame all done over the weekend found the gunwales to the frame where it turns up and in and all over the place a right pain in the a--e . the roof collars are made by laminating three strips of ply glued and screwed together in a jig then removed after the glue set we took the screws out biggrin.png

     

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  2. hi neil

     

    as long as it stops the worst of it i'll be happy, I'm not a fan of the pram cover either , im going to put a drip around the new deck boards to help the water into the channel,and ive seen that sound proofing but isnt it expensive lol. the sr3 is bolted direct to the hull might try putting rubber matting between the mounts but cant see that making much difference either. Was waiting for a mate who's a welder but cant wait forever need to get on so had a go meself ?.

  3. its been a while, but i have been busy dodging the weather the engine and gearbox now stripped cleaned painted and rebuilt ready to go back in.

     

    while ive been doing that my dad has been making the new frame and windows for the front.

     

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    before

     

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  4. Firstly, maybe being a bit pedantic, technically a Morco is not a boiler - it is an instantaneous water heater - it simply raises the temperature of water passing through it by more or less a fixed amount, depending only on how fast that water is going through.

     

    I think the general view is that if this is your sole source of water for a shower, you are best not having any kind of thermostatic mixer as part of the shower itself.

     

    In all honesty, using Morcos (or similar) for showers is a bit unsophisticated, as their throughput is relatively low anyway, but, if water is allowed to flow through them fast enough, and the inlet water is cold enough, they may not actually raise the temperature enough to give a very strong shower that is piping hot.

     

    Usually the best technique in my experience, is to turn the hot tap on fully to get maximum flow through the Morco, and introduce a small amount of cold tap to regulate the temperature. In summer with warmer inlet water, you will need more cold tap, but in winter, if you are drawing very cold water from your main cold tank into the Morco inlet then it is not impossible you will not wish to add any cold to the heatedwater coming out of the Morco, which may well be only just warm enough, (depending on many factors, including personal preference, of course!).

     

     

    thanks for that alan as the boat has a sr3 in it i cant use a calorifier and as it had this brand new morcos in it i thought id use it , ive got a stove in there aswell and was thinking of an erberspasher to run three rads? not enough room for a calorifier because of the air ducting for the engine, also gives me a few different sources of heat and then the hot water comes from the gas ?

     

    Gary

    did wonder about the thermastatic thats why i said i think a straight forward mixer would be the way ahead

  5. I'm planning on using the new LPG boiler that came with the boat for the hot water and shower .

     

    The boiler is a Morco D 61B

     

    any sugestions as to the best shower to pair with it as in just mixer or will it run a thermostatic controller?

     

    Gary

  6. Unless you are a really competent DIYer I'd not attempt it. You need lots of skills one of which is to be able to visualise what needs to be done and how to do it.

    Plummer,

    Woodworker,

    Electrician

    Metal worker

    Interior designer

    engineering mechanic

    Painter and decorator

    gas fitter

    and probably more

     

    Either buy a serviceable used boat and cruise around or hire one of the better boats (some are designed to pack 'em in) for a week as a minimum and out of season; just to work out what works and what doesn't

     

    With another hat on, I've recently found that you can buy a complete new boat for not (20% or less) more than something that's approaching 10 years old. Have a look at Cain narrowboats or Lymm marina boat sales. Both will do fully finished craft and sailaways in various stages of completion

     

    A sailaway plus might suit you better as much of the boaty stuff has been done for you, leaving you to varnish, paint, lay carpets fit cupboards (care here as domestic units do not fit well) and the rest. Boaty stuff is not magic, but it needs 'the knowledge' - there are many pitfalls.

     

     

    heres a link to mine so far lol if it works

     

    http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=68909

  7. watch out for cracking on the grp and as mentioned earlier the hand rails that has to be the worst bit the water gets into the timber inserts through the cracks and swels the wood breaking open the fibre glass ? dont think an older boat with grp would take to much walking on the roof either hope all goes well let me know how you get on

     

    Gary

  8. Wow, that is a massive job, looking really nice though. How well did using cork between the grp top an the hull work?

     

    Hi jenberi the cork was a help taking out the unevenness of the GRP along with using the steel strip all stuck with a marine mastic

     

    and yes magnetman an SR3 and i do really need a muck out in the shed lol its getting it monday evening

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