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ChrisPy

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Posts posted by ChrisPy

  1. On many of the waterways that you are unfamiliar with, considerately may well mean well above tickover.

    just a gentle reminder that this is Canal World Forum, which to 98% of members is concerned with those inland canals that are predominantly used for leisure purposes.

     

    how is unfamiliarity with other types of waterway relevant to this thread?

     

    :banghead:

     

     

    ............. and I will not draw attention to your own record in this area of expertise(?) ........... OOPS, I just did :lol:

    • Greenie 1
  2. There's a primer for wood which allows polyester resin to stick much better. But for small areas epoxy might work out cheaper and much easier.

     

    cheers, Pete.

    polyester resin isn't suitable for anything apart from GRP mouldings.

    epoxy is miles better for repairs, sheathing, stitch & glue, etc.

  3. Sorry I don't see where you are coming from. I had the serviced, discharged and refilled. I am advising people to shake there extinguishers as I know that dry powder goes hard with vibration. None of what I have said is outside what is required to have extinguishers in good order and actually adds to it.

    .......... he must just be having a complicated day :rolleyes:

  4. No..the kite mark alone is not acceptable.

     

    BSS Guide 6.1.2R allows the kite mark as the evidence of compliance for quality. The kite mark will/must carry the licence number of the manufacturer.

     

    Of course the ratings and combined ratings need to meet the requirements for quantity.

     

    .... it is not complicated.

     

    I bought mine from fire-extinguishers-direct, very good value and full compliance.

  5. my oil in the Lister is now so clean you can not read the level on the dip stck, as apossed to when i got her it was jet black. probably over the top, but it makes me happy.

    my Yanmar manual tells me to expect the engine oil to be black, that is quite normal.

  6. Please don't jest about this very serious subject. Nearly 19 years ago 2 young friends died of CO poisoning in a rented house. It hurt then and it still hurts now that 2 men at the beginning of their life were killed by the poor workmanship of an incompotent gas fitter and a cheapskate landlord (who went to prison}. My family and I visited their grave last week - we were all moved by it,

    I wasn't jesting.

    I respond in similar vein to anything or anyone that suggests that there is a bearded man in the sky who should protect us.

     

    (thank you, Tim)

  7. my experience of clicking without activation - low voltage due to poor battery arrangements, and burnt contactor points (call Albright International for help).

     

    PS: apparently the burnt points were the result of low voltage causing them to chatter.

  8. carbon monoxide is the product of incomplete combustion of coal or wood (or hydrocarbon gases or liquids), which typically happens when there is a shortage of oxygen (e.g. smouldering barbecue or ashpan embers).

    ....... be warned.

     

     

    complete combustion results in carbon dioxide which is non-toxic; it will not build up to dangerous proportions in a normally ventilated space.

    use of a carbon dioxide extinguisher in an enclosed space can be dangerous if you do not immediately vacate the space, and then ventilate it well before re-entry.

  9. so do we have an answer to this? seems we have gone off topic in a few areas.

     

    so if we leave "should you" to another post could we finalise what is legal to do?

     

    i am about to install gas piping and was reading this to find out if i should get 8 or 10 mill coils of pipe to supply my oven.

    im now very confused with all this imperial talk.

    if you use 5/16" or 3/8" tubing bought from a chandlery you'll be OK. appliances, regulators, bubble testers, etc. generally have imperial threads so the fittings that are used with imperial tube will also match the appliances.

     

    you are unlikely to find tube of adequate wall thickness in metric sizes. regardless of whether it is legal, it is simply the most difficult route to choose. you would save a bob or two on the tube and suffer heartache and extra costs trying to get it to fit at the ends.

     

    no more confusion. B)

  10. I can't see, in the BSS guide, where it gives a BS number for copper pipe, it just says:

     

    "LPG pipework must be made or either seamless copper tube, or stainless steel tube, or copper nickel alloy"

     

    The LPG section mentions BS numbers for flexible pipe but none that I can see for copper.

     

    I notice the same in the electrical section, no mention of single strand wiring being not allowed in a 240v system, just a requirement that all wire is correctly sized and protected.

     

    Very confusing.

     

    C.

    these requirements derive from the ISO/BSS standards that are prescribed for the RCD and represent good practice even if there is no requirement to produce an RCD DOC for the boat.

    However all new boats sold on within 5 years (i.e. all commercially produced boats and most DIY fit-outs) must be issued with an RCD DOC.

  11. The meter round my mums old house measures in cubic meters, I read the meter last week.

    why do some people adopt the American spelling for metres, when they (the Americans) barely even recognise the existence of such units? It just perpetuates the ignorance and illiteracy of our transatlantic cousins. :unsure:

  12. when I did my RCD stability and downflooding calculations for the RCD on a widebeam, I recall that the openings have to be 250mm above the waterline when the hull is heeled over by the persons on board, etc.; in my case 400mm was safe.

    the biggest issue was the engine room vents that are louvres on each side above the rubbing strake on a Liverpool hull.

    needs to be recalculated for a narrowboat.

    critical factor for stability is the number of persons on the builder's plate.

  13. Who is getting wound up Chris?? - there is a discussion going on about the merits of a BT or otherwise....

     

    Perhaps you might like to add something meaningful to it....

     

     

     

     

    or I could refer you to numerous threads where I have done just that. :banghead:

     

    The characteristic of all such threads is the contribution of a group of purists who seem to object to us making this choice and believe that we are all wimps, poor helmsmen and not "real men". :judge:

     

    if you follow the development of this thread you may notice that it was about how to fit a bow thruster, and I was critical of the way in which it began to deteriorate into a discussion about the NEED for a BT (as usual), introduced by the BT sceptic brigade. :tired:

    Maybe we should give them a title - BT Salvation Army? B)

    • Greenie 1
  14. Chris - saying a bow thruster is not necessary does not make someone a smart arse, it is a fact they aren't - otherwise we would have got stuck somewhere without one and been unable to extract ourselves.

     

    They are however useful in certain situations (one being the issue I described above in my earlier post) however because Jan learned the 'Leeds lock wiggle' while in the short locks we proved we could manage perfectly well without one. :cheers:

    :banghead: definite case of sense of humour shortfall syndrome :cheers:

     

     

    PS try reversing in or out of some marinas in a cross wind in reverse. :o Leeds lock wiggle is child's play. :rolleyes::o

  15. After nearly 7 years I can definitely say that my BT has been less trouble than it's worth - much less.

     

    I can steer properly without the use of the BT, but it's still nice to have.

    Mike, I tend to ignore the smart-asses who know that BTs are unnecessary. Of course they are the experts, they are right, and we should know better. So I just turn my deaf ear to them. :cheers:

     

     

     

    Just for badness I'm considering fitting a BT to my Frolic 21 'toy boat'. It is very difficult to turn in a narrow channel. :rolleyes:

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