Moisha

Thought that the trap is for being able to clean out the debris that may accumulate from use of sink. Anyone correct me if I am wrong. moisha

Thanks all--we have a large belfast sink, so will have to figure out the waste. The bottle trap looks good and does not seem to take up too much space. We have fenders on sides, so perhaps a skin fitting will work. Thanks again, Jon

Hi there, We will shortly be plumbing. We have a Belfast sink. There are many kinds of u-bend sink-wastes available on Toolstation. Which is the right kind? Jon

Thanks, all. What a mess we would have made without you! Once I get my photos onto photobucket, I'll send some updated pics of our progress. many thanks again, anastasia alias moisha

Thanks, John! Will go with brass.

Yes--I will fit a plastic push fit spigot out of the tank with ptfe tape, in the threads, but the gate valve that will follow will be a sturdy brass one. No-we do not want 600 liters of water spoiling our varnishing job. Does this sound reasonable (that is, to combine brass and plastic fittings)? Also--there is mention of the 'accumulator' or 'pressure vessel' that should be fitted after the pump. What in the world is it and where does one get such a thing? duh. one more thought? Perhaps I should also use a brass (rather than plastic) spigot in the tank outlet? Seems like a sturdier option. moisha

Also--does anyone know the difference between a stop cock valve and an isolating valve? stop cock seems like the sturdier version of isolating.

It's an integral tank and I have no thruster, so perhaps I will fit the valve directly onto it. Do you mean the isolating valve? That's a valve I see on toolstation.com. Thanks for advice. I found these tank connectors on toolastation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/PlumbingHe...hFit/d20/sd2711 seems like the right thing followed by an isolating valve and then flexible tubing to pump. No?

Hello all--I am now pondering plumbing and cannot quite figure out what type/size fitting will fit a liverpool boat water tank. I'll be running all 15mm push fit with a shurflo pump. But the hole in the tank seems bigger. A 22mm tank connector perhaps??? moisha, esq.

So now, dear people. We did go with soldering and got an experienced friend with equipment who did the job for us for a chinese meal. All looks neat and we hope it works. But then we began fiddling with our downlights. And--alas! Although pretty compact ones, they were (once the bulb was in) too bulky in the back. http://www.ekmpowershop.com/ekmps/shops/dr...p;productid=139 We were happy with these, especially since they cost us 1.70 a pop. But now--oh sorrow. Does anyone know of any similar downlights that would have no more than 2-3 cm clearance in the back. That's all we have between the foam and the panelling. Please help--we are all pumped up to have light! And yes--we have a number of storm lanterns. For a 60-foot boat one would have to have about 30. moisha

Hi All, This is Jon (the other member of Moisha who has not chimed-in so often). My idea was to strip about half an inch of the trunk cable (which in one case, for the furthest lighting circuit, has a 10mm squared cross section), strip about an inch off the branch cable (2.5mm squared), wrap the stripped branch cable around the stripped trunk, twist off and then solder them in; then use amalgamating tape. Soldering makes sense to me, but I've never soldered to anything as heavy as 10mm copper cable. I imagine that the 10mm cable acts as a heat-sink, but an engineer friend is bringing a gas soldering iron to help us. My brother and his friend also feel uneasy about soldering such heavy cables because they suspect that the soldered joint could be a fire risk. They thought that one must use big terminal blocks for this reason. Does anyone have a view on this? I assumed that if the copper of the trunk- and branch-wires are firmly in contact within the joint, there would be no risk. I can imagine if solder alone bears the current, then it will melt and melt the insulation too. Using terminal blocks would be harder for us because, the way we've planned it, there's limited room behind the panel to house the lighting cables and terminals. Any thoughts?

Thanks! I found them too, but I don't think they are the people since they only seem to carry smaller batteries (for camcorders and such). Thanks anyway. moisha

Hi--I was told that Phoenix Batteries somewhere in the Midlands has good quality cheap batteries. Anyone got the number? cheers, moisha

It seems there are these things called 'tap connectors' that attach a 'tap' to the main wire. Some are self-stripping and look quite handy. Although few take wires thick enough... moisha

Hey--do these kinds of connector strips do the trick??? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical...ent/d190/sd2460 the many-way 'connector strop' on the page. Are these cut into small bits and used as mentioned or are you talking of something else? Thanks a million again. moisha

Duh--soldering should have been an obvious option!

Hi all. We are steady on and finally (months after the intended time) are actually beginning our electrics. A quiestion came.... We will be running light circuits with a separate spur for each light. I know that in household electrics when more than 2 wires are connected they use these bulky junction boxes/ But I was wondering if there was a way of doing it by somehow attaching the spur cables to the main one without cutting it. I imagined some sort of crimp connection that 'clips onto' the main cable at a part that would be stripped of insulation. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there a standard way of doing it? Much appreciated, as always. yours, moisha, Esq.

Thank you all--and especially Charles. Last night we got almost no smoke! We put in some firelighters, a good layer of kindling and a couple of coal nuggets. When all that got going we chucked in a bunch of coal and the boat was steaming. The key was to follow Charles's technique of lighting a firelighter in the dust pan so that we did not have to have the door open at all while the smokey stuff got through. We do have a new flu and it isn't clogged as we are indeed fitting out. So that is not the problem. We are indeed considering a cowl. I suppose it would help with the blowback. Cheers--and thanks for all the advice. ps: we do have a carb monoxide detector--one of the first things we got. Moisha

Hi all-very useful tips. We have this old French stove called Le Salamandre (appr 1940s) that looks like this http://www.leboiscleyet.com/La%20Salamandre%20Tritonia.htm We have a 1-m tall chimney stack on top to help with the draw, but it seems you are right. The problem is that when we are lighting there is a lot of blowback and we smoke up the boat even if we close the front door very quickly. Also some smoke tends to billow out of the top feed for the coal. We have now sealed it with silicone, but it is still seeping a little. The front door seal is not perfect, but almost, so maybe a little seeps out of there too. Once the stove gets really going, which takes about 20 minutes, it draws well, but in the meantime all the seeping fumes have made our heads ache. I am pretty sure the flue is clear, but how can we make sure that it is--the stove is sealed in place? Braghhhh. moisha

We've just moved onto our boat and every time we have to relight the stove, we smoke ourselves out and have to ari out the place for 30 min! Are there any pro tips on how this is done (how much kindling wood is necessary? How much coal to load and when? etc). Please throw some advice my way or else my husband who claims to be an open air fire lighting pro will lose the last of his self esteem. moisha

I've been looking for a small bathtub, something not much more than 1.2m and preferably no biger than 1 (yes--we will take them once a season)! I've seen lots of these on the continent. But trying to find one in England for less than 400q!!! seems impossible. Americans make them for their RVs, but they all seem shallow nad costs lots to import. I was just wondering if anyone knew of a reasonable source. Or else I'll have to go to Spain. moisha

Great--that's what I thought. We will be running the wires in a pelmet between deckhead and wall and running the 'spurs' across to power lights. Thanks a million. Cheers, Moisha

We have finally moved onto barely fitted boat and have completed panelling the sides! Now (FINALLY) the electrics (with out wedding and honeymoon having gotten in the way). Got all the cables, fuses, terminals etc etc etc and the first thing is to pay down the light wiring that will run beneath ceiling and under the ceiling panelling. What order of wiring/panelling would you recommend? We were thinking lay the wires across ceiling (marking where we will want the light fittings), panel, and then cut out holes with one of those core drill bits. I guess we can also cut openings for light fittings in the planks before we screw them into the ceiling. Should we watch out for anything? Be cautious of anything? Beware? Will send pics as sonn as... thanks, moisha

Thanks for all the advice. We may perhaps go for a gunnel-level switch at the entrance and maybe the kitchen, but elsewhere, as I already said, pull string seems to be the way to go--don't have to reach as much and keep your cable runs and burrowing through the damn (did I say damn? not strong enough a word) insulation foam to the minimum. I found these pretty cheaply in nice chrome. http://www.rbstaronline.co.uk/acatalog/BG_Pull_cords.html Anyone know a better deal. cheers, moisha NB We are getting married tomorrow. What hullabaloo!

Exactly.