Lanners

I was told we had to weld the collar bit to the roof. - perhaps heat/fire silicone would do? And yes! good point re: the heat panel, do you know a good place to get it?, I can try the flue peeps I guess. This is what we have paid for: My link Could probably cancel it if its a rip off?

Hi Richard, We paid for one via our boat builders (£340 I think for the complete kit), will go back to them and see if its cheaper to have a straight one - still need all the other bits (chimney / collar etc) though. There supplier is Puffer Parts. My plan was to cut the hole, insert collar, get it welded, fit flue, and make some kind of heat panel for where the flue goes into the ceiling. Does this sound right?, have I missed anything? Thanks Toby

Hi Spuds, Yes, It has the baffles on the back (and underneath) yes it has the smoke hood so will remove that, plus the other bits you mentioned. Thanks for the tips! Toby.

I did wonder about that, but someone told me it draws better with bends... wrong?

Hi All, So I have made our hearth and behind stove as per the instructions on the Soliftec site: 25mm calcium silicate board, over a 10mm gap behind made from silicate board off cuts, tiled, and stretching just over the limits from stove to walls etc. The hearth is silicate board, topped with cement board, topped with 12mm slate. I have just got the Squirrel 4010 and the instructions / distances are totally different Can someone tell me which one to follow? (hopefully the Soliftec one as thats how I've built it to!) Also, I need to make a template for the insulated flue, I have cut lengths of ply to assemble how the chimney should be. Would I be right in assuming that the flue would come out of the top of the stove and via a small angle, run parallel to the cabin side and then via a turn, go straight up and through the roof? (see attachment) Do I also need to cut the angle/curve of the roof - So at this stage I need to cut away the lining & insulation? https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2TUY6FUKrBgWXF3Sjd2aC14T2s I really want to get this right! Thanks Toby

OK, going to go for the correct (more pricey) option: Gas safe plus Marine Ticket (non mates rates). Mike, please can you guestimate how much it would be to commission an oven, and to change and adjust the jets? All the pipework is done, plus new regulator fitted by builder (and cut off) so it just needs connecting. Thanks Toby

So, If I decide that today, we are using the boat for private pleasure - And get our mate (who is gas safe registered) to commission the cooker. And then decide next week (due to a change in circumstances), that its residential and tell the BSS inspector when he/she comes, then all is hunky dory?

Thanks Mike, Its residential so will have to find a Marine-Gas bod. (- If anyone knows of any in Bristol, let me know..) The cooker has the FSD devices on all burners - The spec also says 'suitable for flats' which I believe has the same standards? Cheers, Toby.

We have a mate who is gas safe registered and has LPG ticket. But not the Marine bit. So I assume this is OK providing he is happy to do it, and then the BSS person (with gas safe cert) can just check and sign it off? Thanks Toby.

Hi All, We have a gas line, regulator and stop cock (all fitted by the boat builder) for our new gas oven. We need to get it commissioned, and the jets changed for LPG (which are included) Can anyone tell me if the gas plumber needs to have the Marine ticket? or can any Gas safe plumber fit it? Our insurers are insisting we get a BSS in order to cover us (its a new sail-away lined+ (so we just have the RCD) Thanks Toby.

Hi All, We are going into the water this week for the first time..very exciting! but we will need to get some diesel in her. Am I right in assuming we can use red diesel, so long as its for heating? - If this is the case, how much should it be roughly? There are facilities in the marina, but is it cheaper to go to a fuel merchant place? Thanks Toby.

Or this: My link Or this!: My link

Thanks everyone, Its a new build so probably easier to just fit a second skin fitting. This worries me slightly but am happy to go for it. So, is it just a ¾" HSS drill bit, a mains powered chunky drill, something to de burr the edge, silicone, and (of course) the skin fitting? Toby. Or a hole saw??

Hi Team, Is it possible to share a skin fitting / drain hole with a sump pump (Whale Gulper 220) and washing machine? The gulper comes with a one way valve so figure it would be ok when washing machine empties, but with the shower pump on, would it go up the spout and into the washing machine? Lots of head scratching over this one! Thanks, Toby.

Good luck!

This was my concern,,, been popping down to Keynsham and looking at the raging torrent over the wier!

Saltford (between Bristol & Bath), generally running up to and from Bristol / Bath to start with, and then further afield when time allows. Thanks

Hi (again) all, Is it a legal requirement to have an anchor on-board? - I would assume it is but not sure. And if it is, what's the recommendation for a 65x11 on the K&A? From searching the forums I've seen the Danforth (with a load of chain) recommended for tidal waters. What's best/appropriate for non tidal / canals? Thanks, Toby.

I think, given the magnitude of all the other work, plus our very short deadline (2 weeks for all the big (noisy) stuff) we will leave it until the next time she comes out... Thanks All,

Cheers.

Ah!, have just done a forum search for 'speedfit' and this has answered my question.

Hi All, Need to get a load of connectors/pipe for out Galley / bathroom. Does anyone have recommendations on the best place for all this? I've been looking on screwfix which seems very reasonable (FloFit), can anyone tell me the good / reliable brands? Is there a difference or are they all good? Tanks!

Hi All, Should the base plate of a boat be blackened? We went to check the progress of our new wide-beam the the weekend and noticed a boat on a trailer ready for haulage with an untreated bottom. Is this normal practice? Thanks Toby.