Kae
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Posts posted by Kae
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Tesco own brand here.
I've had the misfortune of having to dismantle a loo due to blockage, but nothing to do with the toilet paper!
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Hi Kae
I'm at Anderton. How about you?
T.
Same
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Sounds like we're neighbours, are you moored at Uplands or Anderton?
I'm in the same position, I have a mooring for work purposes, then I escape when I can.
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They've literally only just got the access road in. I don't expect anyone knows for certain yet how long the closure will be.
I'd personally be looking at alternatives.
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If you can't see the facebook page due to an adblocker, the direct address is:
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Mine just sit on 4 rubber door stops.
Same with mine. Shaped wooden supports which have door stops on the bottom (with one side trimmed down take into account the curvature of the roof).
They're 12 years old and are just about looking like they need replacing.
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No, but from my reading, there may be some traction in swapping the inner batteries to the outer position and vice versa. This is because the outer batteries work marginally harder than the inner two.
However, it's a very small difference.
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I've fished things out of the tank by letting it run low, then being very lucky with a small torch and a telescopic grabber like these:
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57ft, just me.
I think a well planned fit-out really decides how much "useable" space you get.
I've got more useable space and storage in my 57ft boat than I've seen in many 70ft boats!
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According to the manuals
http://www.betamarine.co.uk/downloads/operators_manuals/1630-2838-KC-IOM-1011.pdf
http://www.betamarine.co.uk/downloads/operators_manuals/1650-4360-KC-IOM-1011.pdf
Beta 38 Standard sump = 6.0 - 7.5 litres Shallow sump = 6.0-7.5 litres
Beta 43 Standard sump = 9.5 litres Shallow sump = 7.0 litres
But that's total engine oil. You'd only replace that volume in a freshly built engine. For general servicing, you can only remove the oil from the sump.
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Look in the engine manual for the oil capacity. I suspect that the sump was not drained completely previously, 5.5 litres is not much for marine engine. Most of the Kubota based engines hold about 8 litres.
Kubota based BETA 1505 (38), my oil changes are usually 5-5.5 Litres.
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My partly-informed part-formed opinion of double glazing on boats is that the units appear to have a fairly high failure rate, and this appears to have put a lot of manufacturers off, let alone buyers. I believe one company started producing double glazed units but stopped due to warranty claims?
Sorry, very sparse on detail as I can't remember the company name.
Personally I have the usual single glazed units and use a secondary glazing film in deepest darkest winter.
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Same problem with mine too, rain runs along the runners under the hatch and drips in. My sliding hatch is wood on steel - no brass runner strips.
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http://www.albionbathco.com/bathrooms/small%20and%20short%20bath%20and%20tubs/TubbyTubBath.html
No prices on the web site which usually means they are a little on the expensive side.
What would you do with one of them?
I'd look bleedin' inelgegent sitting in one of them that's for sure!
Not that I'd look elegant naked in any setting, but you know what I mean.
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Why has no-one pointed out the book title?
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Just a thought .......
When the designer of the Smartgauge used to post on here nobody had a bad word to say about the SG. Now .....
Dave
That's not my recollection, in fact, there were some rather long and heated threads about exactly that!
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I like my ecofan purely for the "man's toy windmill" effect, and for the only useful purpose that it gives a visual indication of how hot the stove is and whether it's going to be in need of fuel shortly or not.
Saying that, it came with the boat, I wouldn't have bought one.
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I have a small bit of welding to pull alongside a boat and have it done would be ideal.
That could be entertaining if the hulls touched whilst you were welding!
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Yup, no problem at all.
Yup, no problem at all.
My stove was ceramic tiles direct onto wood for 12 years and all it did was discolour the wood slightly.
Not safe by any stretch, so now it's done properly, but trying to show that hotspots caused by screws are of minimal concern.
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After just going through this very process, it was recommended to use porcelain tiles rather than ceramic.
Fingers crossed, so far so good.
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Trundled past a few Sea Otters in the last week and not one have I seen with dents - although some of them were definitely getting on a bit, you could only tell from the faded/tatty paintwork, no corrosion though!
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Two main points to consider.
1 - Epoxy is "better" as it isn't affected by diesel spills - unlike traditional blacking that just dissolves!
2 - When choosing your hull surveyor, find out if they have to remove the hull protection when taking hull readings. There are devices that don't require this, but if it does, it will obviously create dozens of bare patches on the hull that will need repairing!
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He's taken care of the most critical things first, painting the outside of the hull...
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Is it me?
Nope, it's the same in any tender process, it's amazing the range of replies you receive (and not always surprising when you hear of which businesses go tits up only a few years later).
When you have your short list, please, please ask for opinions in the open market (here, facebook etc) to get a good range of opinions and replies before you select your builder. Although few and far between, there are bad builders out there.
Good luck
T&M Stoppage at Dutton
in General Boating
Posted
Same here!