Narrowboat Communicator
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Posts posted by Narrowboat Communicator
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Which is more severe than we thought! Blimey I'm off to paint my bilge :-)
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So would that make it more like 4mm flaking to 0.1mm of loss
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Hi
I was wondering how much hull thickness you actually lose from what looks like a lot of internal rust/flaking inside the bilge?
I have read some where that 1mm of flaking equates to 0.1mm of actual loss? Does this sound accurate? Or is there a better guide?
Cheers
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Also if it`s a converted ex working boat, beam may be a problem in the hurleston locks, If the beam is 7ft, it depends, some are OK, some have problems. With a full length boat you have no wriggle room
The design is Grand Union Large Woolwich with 9" taken out of the middle so lessening the height to gunnel level and thus reducing her draught from 3'3" to 2'8", i"m sure it's under 7ft wide too
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That sounds lovely :-) I will check on the length and I think we'll go for it.
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Good morning all,
I am thinking about having a two week cruise from kings bromley to somewhere up the Llangollen canal.
Does any one know how far up the canal you can go in a 71ft boat?
We are going in the first two weeks of September, and will be ending our cruise at norbury junction for Blacking :-)
Is the canal a mostly countryside one or has it lots of villages pubs etc??
Thanks
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Good morning all,
I am thinking about having a two week cruise from kings bromley to somewhere up the Llangollen canal.
Does any one know how far up the canal you can go in a 70ft boat?
We are going in the first two weeks of September, and will be ending our cruise at norbury junction for Blacking :-)
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Hi
Just been to boat and had close look. It's not coming from threads!! It looks like a hole 10mm from threads on the bottom. It doesn't look like its worn like that, almost like a perfect circle! When I grease it, it comes out the side of this hole. There appears to be a filler smeared under the bottom? Perhaps a old repair?? I can't upload pictures on here to show you :-(
The hole is in the stern tube not the hull :-) just incase anyone thought otherwise
the stern tube boss is welded into the steelwork the tube is then screwed in. it has come loose (happened once to me) just keep it tight enough to stop the dripping and then when you pull her out take the whole assembly apart and apply some thread seal and reassemble. the reason for the loosening is the fact that the engine sits higher than the stern tube (the reason for the 2 heavy duty flexible joints (UJ's) this results in a small amount of vibration (don't forget to check the 8 bolts on each UJ every 6 months as they do come loose as wellas for the tube packing this will wear down and again every 3 - 4 months its worth a quarter turn on each nut, repack when you get down to 4mm gap (if I re call correctly you can put 2 strips in at that distancekev and just to reassure you she will float perfectly even with a foot of water in her!! yes I found out the hard way!! luckily no floor had been laid at the time!
Did you have a foot if water throughout the boat or to the engine room baulkhead?
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as Alan says there is a plate welded across the swim that the whole assembly bolts into, from memory it isn't that tight and the tube can wander about 3 mm forward/back and leaks if fully forward against the packing gland
Hi
Just been to boat and had close look. It's not coming from threads!! It looks like a hole 10mm from threads on the bottom. It doesn't look like its worn like that, almost like a perfect circle! When I grease it, it comes out the side of this hole. There appears to be a filler smeared under the bottom? Perhaps a old repair??
I can't upload pictures on here to show you :-(
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The boat is coming out for blacking end of September, we are supposed to be going to Stratford fir a two week cruise. Do you think it'll be ok for that??
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Yes, it's where the tube comes through the boat. Not where the propshaft cones out if the stern gear.
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Hi
My narrow boat has been leaking water from the stern gear by where it comes through the boat. The tube looks like its threaded through the hull and the drips are coming up the threads. I put about 20 or so turns of grease in there and it's totally stopped.
My question is, is it through lack of greasing or lack of adjustment on my part? It was re packed 4 years ago and only covered 400 or so miles. I must add I've only recently adjusted it up a turn on each nut. I usually turn the grease a turn when I moor up.
Am I doing things correctly or is something amiss??
Many thanks
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Cheers every one, I suspect that wire wasn't tight enough as it was intact at the bottom. I will lag top to bottom with a tuck at the top followed by a very tight wire!
I had to chuck my bottoms away last week as they was covered in glass fibres! Looks like i will have to put some overalls on this time. :-)
I changed silencer for new one, but I kind of cheated, luckily the old silencer was rotten enough to allow me to snap it from the coupling in roof, otherwise I would of had to remove wood from roof to allow me to unscrew the silencer. The broken bit of the exhaust unscrewed with ease. I cheated with new silencer as I brought a coupling for the roof that allows the silencer to sit 3 inches lower than before, that allowed me to screw new exhaust into place without replacing tongue and grove wood on the ceiling.lagging!! I ran her for 6 months with just the pipe out the engine room door!! lol. anyway start at the top and wind it on tight with an overlap of 50% on each turn this will hold each turn in place, the hardest bit will be the silencer box (assuming it still has its original exhaust)
If the silencers had top and bottom inlet and out-let's in the centre, all the myther would of been avoided.
Ps I had her running with just pipe and it sounded lovely :-)
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Hi
Just a quick question, I need to lag my new exhaust silencer. It is the type that goes straight up and out the roof.
I have lagged my flexible exhaust to near perfection, but embarrassingly my lagging fell off my silencer after a week! I think I may have done some thing wrong. Do I start at the top or the bottom?? I think I may have started at the bottom and worked my way up. I did wire the end up but I was greeted with a pile of lagging the other morning.
Funnily, when I told my other half, and to save embarrassment ( she knows how long it took me) I blamed our cats, saying they must have been using it as a scratching post again!
All help appreciated
Ps boat safety on Sunday :-(
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Why not just an ordinary farm mooring? I moor on the Macc for about £350 a year (plus CART licences, obviously) for a 40ft boat. 70ft moorings are a bit sparser, but they are around. Some farm moorings are OK about living on, others (mine included) aren't. But they are all a whole lot cheaper than marinas, and all you need to do as you cruise around this year is spot a gap in a line of boats somewhere you like the look of and nip in and chat to the farmer.
Thanks
Never really thought about farm moorings, before, we lived on our boat so needed electric supply and water for ease, now we can choose a nice location with no amenities,
Thanks
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Hi
We are after linear mooring for our 70ft boat. We are currently at kings bromley wharf and it is a complete rip off! Costs us over £100 a month in electric and £60 a week to moor. We have been living on our boat now for 6 years so water and electric point was needed.
We are currently leaving the wharf end of the month and are taking a year out to enjoy the water ways :-)
We are also looking to buy a house so need a location to moor the boat cheaper than £60 a week. Great Haywood and kings Bromley marina won't go below £50 a week but we don't need any amenities, the boat is well appointed to be self sufficient . The boat will not be lived on in its new mooring, weekends away and holidays only.
We just missed out in a house with a mooring for 70ft :-( and haven't seen any other property in our price range with a 70ft mooring. So it looks like we will be buying a house away from canal, so need to moor the boat a a nice but cheaper location.
If any one knows of anywhere please let me know,
Thanks for reading
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Anything that burns fossil fuels causes C02.
Very true, but CO is the gas in question, it caused when a fossil fuel is burned with insufficient Oxygen :-)
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We have portholes and think it makes the boat look stunning!!
If we want a view whilst in the saloon we will open our 3foot by 3foot hatches, and when we have enough of people staring in at us we'll shut them and have privacy.
Helps Keeps heat in the boat too :-)
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Why is it hard to buy? Even the expensive Homebase sells 4 litre containers of the correct grade kerosene for about 6 quid and you can still find kerosene for about a pound a litre if you find a hardware shop that fills your own container (they may be hard to find).
As I said, it's not a fuel you'd want to use all the time, but a litre of kerosene will last about 4 hours in my heater, so it's not too bad.
The garage at Wheaton Aston ( Shropshire union canal ) sells premium grade for 92pence a litre, but I can get it from work also :-) (free)
Can't wait for it to arrive, I'll do a video review of it.
Thanks for positive comment
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I have rang several people today and they told me basically the same, to be used in any well ventilated area, not in basements where toxic fumes can build up.
I gave gone and ordered mine today :-)
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I like it , It just sounds too good, perhaps I am just too sceptical, It would be perfect for my back cabin as well. Go on treat your self and give us all a report.
I'm on eBay and about to buy it now.......
Watch out - I was just looking at these for my cabin in the back as an extra heat source. I was looking at the KSP270 which is the same thing but doesn't require electrics and they've put the manual on the webpage for that one.
It states:-
"Must not be installed below ground level"
"Prohibited for use in boats , caravans and vehicle cabins"
Good call !!! I suppose it has something to do with fumes not escaping? Would work in the gas locker though lol
Seriously I'll double check with manufacture about the model I was looking at, don't fancy like drifting off for a eternity just yet.
What about gas cookers and ovens? Surly they would fall into the same bracket of not to be used in boats, cabins etc.
Thanks,
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Just for reference our sleeping quarters are under tug deck, back cabin 60 ft away and will have engine room ( fire doors) shut so the heater would be in its own zone so to speak.
Our lister air cooled gives out enough heat for day time and back cabin wood holds heat well until late evening. So Heater would only be on at night and on its own, pigeon hatch is adjar in engine room and has lots of ventilation in back cabin also.
Sounds like I am convincing myself
:-)
That's another good web page stating fumes and condensation things of the past, I may just buy it to see for myself!
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The more I think about it the more "trouble" it sounds,
I have got my spare Morso stove but liked the idea if thermostatically controlled air temperature. Had bad luck with eberspacher in the past and it is expensive for occasional use.
Electric heater out question,
Any other ideas???
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Did you notice that it requires a 240v mains power in order to work.
Also paraffin was, at one time, cheap to buy, now it costs a bomb, so how much would the 'paraffin extra' cost?
240v not issue really, large battery bank and 3000w mastervolt inverter combo,
Fuel is 92p litre from Wheaton Aston, that's premium grade.
It would only be used in wkend breaks at night to boost air temperature to 26 degrees, in summer it's not a problem.
We have 2 marine tanks with 1200 watts of heaters so need to warm room sufficiently to keep tanks at correct temperature. We go out once a month in winter on average so the heater would seldom be used.
How much hull thickness do you actually lose??
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Ah, but would these figures be for entire rust on the surface, and not the air spaces in between the flaking. So the original figure of 10mm of rust = 1mm of steel lost seems reasonable.