designerstuart

would you have BOTH 12v and 240v sockets, or just one or the other, some here and the other there? i presume a toaster needs 240v socket, but laptop can handle 12v. pair them up, and colour code them?! thanks

sorry guys this might be a very amateurish thread. what should i have on what circuit? 12v all lights in every room shaver socket in bathroom horn a couple of sockets to charge phone etc. via an inverter water pump waste pump heating pump 240v all sockets fridge washing machine calorifier we will have a generator in the engine room too. i assume this powers the 240v circuit. (as you can see, very amateurish - sorry ) thanks

thanks for your link, useful yes thanks steve, yours is one of the blogs i have read through in an attempt to cram knowledge! we had a company sorted, but now can't get hold of them. any recommendations out there please? we're in newbury, berkshire if it matters. thanks all ps. both 'gunnel' and 'gunwale' seem to be correct but i expect there is a more long-winded answer out there!

yes thanks julynian that makes sense. i've been trying to avoid cutting sections out for wiring etc for exactly that reason, so have a zone of around 10mm for wires between foam and ply lining. that said, i was wondering if i should fill the void right up, and cut the grooves out anyway. this would improve thermal performance i'm sure, but all the blogs i read reckon cutting the foam is the worst bit of the whole job!

thanks all. do you know if the spray companies will do any thickness we want? i am using 38mm battens and am wondeing if i should fill the whole void or leave a bit for wiring etc. also no need for shaving it all back if there's a bit of a gap!

IS THERE A STANDARD? oops sorry caps

that is all!

i know there was discussion earlier about the fein multimaster - but does anyone have experience of the competition, and is the saving likely to be detrimental to the quality? i know there is the bosch PMF 180, and i see that black and decker do one for £100ish, and dremmel do one too. what's the alternative choice for this tool? cheers

well then i guess you're back to pencils

having recenlty done this, it's actually quite easy. follow these instructions!

oooh hot topic! thanks for all the input. pencils, check. hammer, check. nob gags, check. have been thinking about the fein multimaster. seems like a good investment at the start of a big project. how did they do it in the old days without power tools? S L O W L Y . £200 seems to be about the norm.... do you need to invest in any other accessories than the standard? linky

hi all just wanted to know what you boat fitter outers out there think is the best tool in your arsenal? i'm right at the beginning of a fit out, and am looking forward to buying some great tools! please give me all your "if only i had x when i started the project..." insight. i have all the normal stuff in a toolbox, and i do have a dremmel but think it's a bit weak. only got one drill so am always changing the bit. thought i might get a battery de walt drill to back mine up, but it's a lot to spend, so i wondered if there was something i really should spend my pocket money on. cheers!

yes, sounded a bit dodgy. and the fact that it was all done by email, but then he said "call me to find out how to do it" made me a little skeptical...

that is what i am here for! thanks chaps. i think i am going to go the direction of permanent access at front and back in the bottom of cupboards, as big as possible, and a permanent slot behind the fridge for efficiency. i will avoid the fans for now, as i don't want to have to cut new vent holes and ducts just for the bilges. then all finally visible floors will be on their own ply panels which can be unscewed and lifted in the event of a problem, but otherwise all fixed down. so all furniture on its own panel, reducing the need to cut in emergencies. everybody happy?!! lol

interesting. i have not heard that side of the arguement before.

what is the right type?

yes that's what i'm going to do thanks all!

thanks for those. mmm siskin looks nice! those hatches are pretty big, handy i'm sure. so basically on lexicon there is an access strip right down the middle of the boat. is the final finish easily removable too, or does that need to be taken up if necessary?

can't find a blog called lexicon on this site - linky please?

right chaps - i can see there is clearly a preference for the steel upstand, and i can understand the benefit here. having spoken to Houdini again, it seems they are talking about a sort of resin filler (isopon P38 or similar) where i mentioned 'plastic padding' above. they reckon you can offer up the hatch, with some protective tape on it, and basically fill the hole between the hatch and the curve of the roof with this plastic stuff. then remove the hatch and when it dries, make good. be interested to hear your thoughts on this.

beams: umm, joists? robin: i have the oportunity of hiding the inspection hatches, so don't think i'll need a proprietary one, thanks. i inherited ply sheets cut longways, with a join running off centre all the way from front to back. hopefully this will tally nicely with my side corridor..... robbo: no pump out tank (we're using cassettes) and the ballast is already down. massive concrete slabs. from what i've read these aren't the best, but it's what i have, which is worth something! question is, at this stage i have all the ply deck unfixed: is it worth me lifting the slabs (which are on a heavy damp proof membrane plastic sheet) and putting your little bearers underneath? or is this just a luxury not worth going back for? thanks!

thanks Bengo. don't think we need to do any overhead bits, so the touchup cans might be best solution.

sounds good

it sounds a bit mental but if you are super picky about getting a crisp line you can paint the background colour along the tape edge first, which removes any leaching under the tape. so if you are doing a cream line on black, paint the black first and apply the tape to the edge of where you want the cream. then paint a small line of black along the tape (black on black), before painting the cream line after. when you peel off the tape, any paint that leached under the tape will have been black, not cream, and therefore won't show on the black background. like i said, mental, i know.

thanks robbo that sounds very similar to my line of thinking. think we talked about UF heating before, but to make clear i am planning the same, and wetroom situation too. but how late in the project are you planning on having access, or is it just more that 'in the unlikely event...' you won't need to cut the ply sheets? i mean, you are fixing your floors down, right? so at lined out stage you have all the ply cut so the bits that have no furniture built on top are separate. then at UF heating stage you are taking your flexi pipes acrossways so that too could be flapped up, and it's only when you put down your final floor finish - clippy laminate wood, carpet, whatever - that you seal these panels in. correct? thanks