Pete & Helen
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Posts posted by Pete & Helen
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I have a Freesat set up, the first I got was with a simple receiver that needed extra storage if you wanted to record a program and the complete kit was only about £35. I use that receiver in the bedroom now.
I then got one of these which has a large hard drive for recording http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sandstrom-Twin-Tuner-500GB-Freesat-HD-Freesat-DTV-PVR-TV-Recorder-BBC-iPlayer-/191394722003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c9003b0d3and at £74 (as mine was then) a good buy. I upgraded the LMB to a quad (only about £10 on fleabay.)
The dish from the original cheap system is mounted on a short pole and fitted to the front of the cratch with one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FASCIA-CARAVAN-WALL-BOAT-TV-AERIAL-POLE-FIXING-BRACKET-WITH-CLAMP-/131348067365?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e94f47425mounted verticaly and the 2 nuts on the U bolt replace with wing nuts. By using this when travelling the dish on it pole can be simply lifted out and inserted upside down through the bottom and secured.
Now my hot tip. because your trim can change or for some other reason you may be at a different angle I fixed a spirit level onto the arm of the dish and fixed it once I had the aerial aligned so the bubble was central. Now I only have to worry about which direction to point the dish horizontally and a quick check of the bubble will tell me if the elevation is wrong for any reason. You can use this for mag fixed dishes to compensate for any curve of your roof.
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Well having spent a great deal of time trying to extract the old oil through the dipstick, I have decided that the pump that I have is a load of rubbish, or at least the supplied tube is. https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/12710701530656992696?q=oil+extraction+pump&es_sm=93&biw=1242&bih=606&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.88528373,d.ZGU&tch=1&ech=1ψ=wAcPVZaHIYzV7QajlIGoBA.1427048451369.3&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX_t6Qq_rcDl_MjGYu42kEZ1IFuyWQx7epoKFLNpwasgB9nzCp4J1WcaKRXMDq0_i36BwfABtuMNgcCiwmfko0M3FjyMYVEHbLFy4zBrnbGWVrlD7RRIZAFPVH70fGk5lr1fiYYuDjLtQXyBdbv_WeA&ei=CAgPVfKvCMWwUa2Ug5AE&ved=0CJ0DEKYrMBM
Its a Vetus engine and not a lot of room around the dipstick.
Any recommendations to a better pump?
Might even look at an electric one so that I have a hand free to jiggle the tube
Something like this maybe http://www.wiltec.de/oil-suction-pump-12v-diesel-pump-oilpump-fuel-pump-oil-change-pump.html?gclid=CKro58LJvMQCFSoEwwodFlQAhw&___store=wiltec_english&___from_store=wiltec_english
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I can see in the link method 2 is opposite ends of bank.
Method 3 baffles me. Each battery goes to one cable of + -. So which is the load or do you connect to the single cable either + - and not directly to the battery's.
Everything is easy if you have the knowledge.
Talking charge cables.
Method 3 is using a "bus bar" (something like this http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/images/products/Aux_Power/4307006.gif) ineach line like a junction box, so the electrical length of wires from the installation (the appliances, The charger/inverter and solar controller) are identical and so each battery works equally.
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OK - its got you thinking anyway.
Unless you are going to straddle the centre line of the boat with the tank you will have a big problem with boat trim - you will have almost half a tonne on one side of the boat (so is there half a tonne of ballast that can be removed in the area where the tank will be ?). Once you have sorted out the trim - when the tank is empty you will be half-a-tonne too heavy on the 'other side'.
Yes there is a outlet but there is no 'inlet' apart from the screw out 8" lid. This needs to be welded/sealed closed and a proper threaded inlet added.
We put two bladder tanks into a boat, they had to have inlet and outlet points otherwise you cannot get it to work. You will also need to drill the tank and install a watertight vent pipe reaching higher than the high point of the original tank.
Alan, If the outputs are connected to a common point, and vented correctly, then the second tank should self level with the main tank as its filled so removing the need for an inlet
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Where on the battery bank would you suggest the solar controller cables connect, in case the alternator cables are wrongly connected.
I would suggest that the batteries are re-cabled as per the forums favourite web page http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.htmland the solar and charge cables connected in the correct place
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Documentation with your controller should tell you what fuse to fit. If not then it needs to be lower than the rating of your cable but higher than the max output from your controller with a bias towards the controller value. The fuse protects the wire not the controller.
Connect to batteries to where your alternator/ charger is (or should be) connected.
Its normal to connect the controller to the batteries then connect the solar to the controller (cover your panel's when doing this).
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With all the movement that a boat gets, even if you had 3" left in the bottom of any of the tanks then the movement would mix that bottom 3" with the fresh above so would not become unused.
As mentioned by System above, be careful that the level the integral tanks water when full, doesn't compromise the lids on the new tanks. any vents need to be either above the upper level of any of the tanks, or connected together.
Personally I would connect all the outputs together with an isolation tap on each just in case any develop a problem. If you have one feed into another then on to the next any problems would result in no water at all.
I have to say the 1300lts of water is an awful lot. Just hope I'm not waiting at the water point when you are filling up.
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This or other past posts may help you
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=64278&hl=tiling
ETA http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=59675&hl=tiling
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I went down to Cornwall last weekend and saw a number of these solar farms and they are not an eyesore at all as far as I am concerned. They are low down and con be easily screened from the view of most passers-by simply with a low hedge. I also saw a lot of wind turbines in the same area and they stand out like a saw thumb, and because they are moving they distract the eye.
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Strange that there are no reports of this from the met office
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OK point taken, blue it is
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I note that they want your phone number to "arrange delivery" AND " to tell you about the work they do" in other words, it's a loss leader so they can call you and to put a guilt trip on you and get money out of you by donation or join as a CRT friend. Mixed feelings about that, but if its money for maintenance you cant really complain.
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Just to answer a few of the points above.
£97 for a nut, tab washer, key and anode, no way in this life thank you. if you look at the individual costs that puts a price of £70 just for the nut. I could get an engineering works to make me half a doz for that.
Anyway I have a key now, £2.50 from midland chandlers.
I can get (now I know the thread size) a nut, but at the moment only in stainless steel and either a stainless steel or brass split pin and brass washers from fleabay,
Although the engine and presumably the prop-shaft and prop was Vetus when the boat was built, a new prop-shaft was fitted a few years ago, so that may or may not be a Vetus item. The paperwork I have just says that a boatyard replaced 30mm prop-shaft, seals flex and half coupling.
When I refit I will be using a bit of grinding past (same as when doing valve seats) to check the taper matches the prop and dry fit first and marking the front end of the prop on the shaft to ensure that when fitting with the key it reaches the same point, that way I will know the key isn't too high.
If I cant find a castellated nut then I will fit two and drill through the locking nut and split pin it with a s/steel or brass pin.
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If there is enough thread use a nut, then a half nut. Once FT drill through shaft tight against the face of locking half nut and pop a split pin in. That setup will 100% not shift.
Not a fan of castellated nuts in this application.
I think that there are a couple of holes through the prop-shaft already, so I will look at that and maybe pack out with washers to get the correct alignment
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Don't use stainless, it can gall on the male thread. Bronze is best.
Buy one from Vetus?
But Metric fine?
Actually you need to specify the pitch, as there are various different fine metric pitches used.
Was I right about it being 1.5mm ?
Tim
Yes its 1.5 mm pitch. also needs to be castellated as there is no slot for a tab washer
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This is the ongoing saga from when my prop cam off. Thankfully that was found, but what was missing was the nut.
By hook and by crook I managed to determine that the thread is M20 fine and got a standard steel nut to check I was right.
So the question now is this, Which is the correct type of nut to use.
Its a stainless steel shaft and the prop is phosphor bronze.
Do I have to have phosphor bronze, brass or stainless steel nut?
If anyone just happens to have one they don't need I can find it a good home, there doesn't seem to be a ready supply of that size
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One trick I use is once the dish is set to the correct position buy a small spirit level
something like these or similar http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-Of-2-HIGH-VIZ-LINE-HANGING-SPIRIT-LEVEL-Brick-Rope-Cord-String-Bubble-Hanger-/191090349769?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c7ddf56c9
Stick the spirit level onto the arm so the bubble is in the centre. Now next time you move and have to realign the dish you only have to worry about the direction of the dish and not the elevation.
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Maybe use something like this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Summit-Waterproof-Floating-Phone-Case/dp/B00CJV8GC2
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Excellent - subject to getting the 'right hook' then you'll be OK in up to 8 metres of water,
What design / type / weight of hook are you going for ?
I'd like to get a plough to reduce weight a bit but that wouldn't be as easy to store when not in use, Danforth type would be easier to store but would need it to be heavier. Bit of a compromise in the end. But as its use will only be for emergencies it would be a bit pointless throwing something over the side that doesn't work.
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Took delivery of my anchor chain this morning, just about gave the delivery driver a hernia. 10mtrs of 10mm chain. Also in the package was 35mtrs of 16mm anchor rope. All I have to sort out now is a lump of metal to hang off the end
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Sorry, that's even less credible, comes to about 30 tpi.
Might your blutac have shrunk in the wash?
Tim
I think that measuring one thread was an imposable job. Just had another go but measured 10 threads and that comes out at around 1.4mm that equates to 0.055inch pitch which is 18TPI which is what I got first time around.
However if i'm 1 mm out then it could be 1.5mm pitch
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With your very near calipers, how far is it from the tip of one thread to the tip of the next one?
Richard
I would say 0.86mm 34 thou inch
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I'm guessing that you haven't measured the pitch correctly. How did you do it? (after taking the mould)?
Tim
Only got about 3/4 inch clear imprint so measured 1/2 inch with a vernier and counted the imprints on the bluetac then x2
What measurement do you think is wrong, and why?
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Ok update:-
Arm down the weed hatch (water is dam cold) and managed to use some bluetac to check the depth of the key slot. Got a new key so will be doing the sums to see if any needs filing off to ensure a correct fit. Bluetac again to take a print of the shaft thread. It seems to be 18TPI and the diameter of the threaded part is 19mm (managed to use a 19 mm spanner and it was a snug fit)
So the question to you engineers out there is what size nut do I need??
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Mooring up in Manchester
in Holidays Afloat
Posted
I'm aiming to be in Manchester on the weekend of the 9th May. I would like to stay in Castlefield basin. Where is the best place to moor in the basin? Can you use one of the fingers where City Cruisers are? Will be off the boat Sat evening so safety/damage potential to consider.
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@53.4747657,-2.2568491,17z?hl=en