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janetah

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Posts posted by janetah

  1. 20 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    But we come back to if the boat is being lived in full time while being sat then what BSS does it need? What Gas testing? What are the insurance company requirements? What happens if the boat beaks down while being sat, do you want fairly unknown people tinkering with it?

    Good points, Tony - if it's similar to house sitting, it wouldn't be a commercial arrangement so eg no landlord-related responsibilities on the part of the 'sittee' though insurance company may need to be informed. Obviously, it's good to have an agreement in place for contingencies, relevant local info/ contacts, instructions about equipment and with house sitting usually the owner's contactable if there's a query.  May have to be a 'no tinkering' clause, but I wouldn't tinker with equipment in a house either.

  2. Thanks for all contributions!  Cynics included, it's good to have questions asked, points made we haven't considered.

     

    We've done house sits before, works very well and personally I'd be delighted to have sitters to look after/clean/keep our boat warm in the winter months when we're away. 

     

    Agree with you, Roland - if don't try, you don't get.

     

     

  3. We're having our boat painted in Solihull mid- October to the end of November (or thereabouts) and wonder if anyone would like us to look after your boat for that period.  We're early 60s, fairly experienced and careful/tidy liveaboard boaters and would, of course, pay something towards expenses etc.

     

    We're based at Sawley Marina in NW Leicestershire and have family commitments there, so somewhere within reasonably easy reach - an hour or so by car - would be best for us.

     

    Many thanks for any offers / suggestions. 

  4. Thanks again, much appreciated!

    4 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

    I had a similar issue for similar reasons early in the ownership of my boat.  My gauge went to 60% pretty quickly, sat there for a bit, then suddenly it was reading 100% and my tank was full to bursting.  I used Silky RX enzyme treatment which broke down the solid mass in fairly short order. My gauge is reliable now, the system performs as it should and a teaspoon full of the granules now and then has kept it such that the pump out always flows smoothly (indicating few lumps) and there's little or no smell.  Other enzyme based treatments, some suggested above, might also be equally effective, but the above works for me. 

    Thanks, Sea Dog.

  5. Thanks everyone - think we'll try a bottle of Aldi bio washing liquid for starters.

    Scraping and stirring may be necessary as a next step, we have to find the inspection hatch first.. not obvious without deconstructing the bed.

    I take the point about not using blue - Detling and OldGoat, what dose of the bio washing do you recommend for ongoing use for a 370L tank?

  6. Hello,

    We bought a narrowboat a couple of months ago which had been lying unoccupied for a year or so and has a Tecma pumpout loo and what is in the specs as a 370L stainless steel holding tank. We've pumped out and given it a good rinse several times now but there seems to be a layer which isn't shifting.  We know this because we've tried putting pee only in it for one cycle and the same thing happens - clearish liquid until the tank is nearly empty then sludge which doesn't seem to clear no matter how many times we rinse out.

     

    Does anyone know of a method and/or product which will give the tank a thorough clean?  Btw we will probably use 'blue' as an ongoing treatment once this is sorted (currently using Odorloss but after a few days it seems to lose its effect).

     

     

  7. Each hoop is cut in the centre and fitted with a sleeve. I haven't taken them of yet.

     

    To keep the rear hoop away from the tiller it connect to the next hoop forwards. Undo a clamp and it slides down, effectively moving it forward and away from the tiller.

     

    Not only does it keep the boat warmer, it makes a good workshop for building new cupboards etc.

     

    Dave

     

     

     

    Having the hoops in two parts would be easier to store than at present - I'll look into whether it's possible to adapt them. The arrangement with mine also has a clamp but in this case to lift the two rear hoops to connect to the forward one and lie them on the roof - but not keen on that arrangement when cruising. Yes, having the cover is great the whole boat seems roomier, warmer and lighter.

  8. Thanks all, for your replies.

     

    I have to admit taking the pram cover out cruising wasn't originally the plan, because I don't like it getting in the way when folded down, either on the rail or on the roof. So I was thinking I'd just store it somewhere else when we're out - but it's great having sitting out space when it's chilly or drizzly so I started wondering whether it would be possible to take, but be able to store away neatly.

     

    It's already proving its worth when on the mooring, keeps the boat much warmer and the extra space is great.

     

    Pete & Helen, I like your idea of a joining section, will look into that.

     

    Jan

  9. I've just had a pram cover made - DB Covers, very good - but the aluminium frame is 3 continuous curved poles and difficult to store, particularly when out cruising. I'm wondering whether there's a company which would make the poles to the same shape but in 3 or 4 pieces each (connected like tent poles) so I can store them in a roof box. I've asked Hampton Works who make custom tent poles, but the diameter 2cm is wider than they work with.

     

    Does anyone have any thoughts?

     

    Many thanks,

    Jan

  10. Thanks for your thoughts, much appreciated.

     

    To be clearer about the present setup, there's a BT socket on the mooring bollard with a fixed cable, which runs along the pontoon and then up the aerial post (on the pontoon) onto the roof of the boat. When I unplug it I coil it up and tie it onto the post with the plug inside a plastic bag.

     

    The plug goes into an internal socket mounted on the outside front cabin wall. There's a short wire from this thro the cabin wall to an identical socket inside which the ADSL splitter then phone / router is attached. Btw I'm at about the limit of my understanding here, not being a techie of any kind - an ex did the fixing. Considering it's been in place for two years, it's not done badly but now the interference is annoying.

     

    After posting here, asked Maplins about waterproof sockets and they suggested two of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/teeplug-ip68-plug-and-socket-625607 - two, because I'd need to cap off the line from the main socket when the boat's out.

     

    I like the food container idea - seems to me it would do about the same job for a lot less dosh.

  11. I've got a telephone landline on the mooring which plugs into a socket on the outside of the cabin, under the cratch cover - problem is that the only socket I could find is an internal one and something is affecting the signal (phone and broadband). I'm assuming the damp is getting to it. Does anyone know of a weatherproof external socket I can buy, which allows disconnection of the plug?

    Thanks,

    Jan

  12. Thanks for all the suggestions! I should have said, there is a brass folding step already on the cabin side and it's OK but not really big enough or in the right place for total comfort/confidence. It's also not so good coming down. I like the idea of a couple of stacked lockers which would be firmly attached to the cabin - sounds a bit expensive but I'll look into it. Also, the ladder idea..

  13. I want something on the stern (cruiser) deck to help me get onto the roof. I don't really know where to start looking - have you any suggestions? I'm not as agile as I was and it's got to be OK going up and down. There's a coolant tank 4" deep attached onto the back cabin wall which is slightly in the way. but there's about 12" to the side of that which is clear.

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