Malarky
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Posts posted by Malarky
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Getting back to plot here:-
is the 12.3V the same as, or more than, the voltage when the engine is stopped?I just touch wires together and watch sparks to measure elec.stuff! and am confused by ammeters! But...
Have the batteries developed some sort off memory of the old belt speed and won't charge evenly for a bit,is there a foreign body in the battery, or are the alternators involved in some kind of electical conversation with each other?
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hi im wondering if anyone knows where i can get plans or working drawings for building a narrow boat in wood or the where abouts of a boat yard that has old boats in wood for sale
Main problem is getting elm for the base, a lot of old boats are a bit worn here. also a lot of work clearing mildew that rot seems to reckon is a motorway, rot which can spread to 9' from affected area! Plans arn,t that important most ribs, beams etc are 2' centreish and its all nailed with the protruding spikes bent over. No worries with tightness or pristine acuracy as the wood swells to sort it all out, the rest being solved with hemp,cotton,bitch,and even some horse shit to finish! Leave 2mm clearance between ribs and spacing blocks for example. The gunwhales are nailed on tight to the sides and these blocks however, as they one hopes they don't sit in the water.
The keel plank is bolted to hold the base planks in line, as are the short ribs for the swim, and is a fairly standard size, say 9''by2'', and the side planks fix the edges.However, you do need a fair lump of wood for the bow,where on completion of your frame the side planks are tucked behind and bent to the ribs useing their length for leverage, the initial connection sandwiched with a block 2'' thick.
Bear in mind if you need superhuman strength, wedging stuff, and knocking your wedging plank this way or that enforces any acuracies. Also there is an interesting example of a locking slip knot for holding stuff, how to tie it has been recorded on the "Kings Belt Buckle" found at Sutton Hoo, should you need to use it.
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Thought in retrospect, better disclose the disk mentioned here saves possible ear drum dammage,with the method I mentioned before best put thumb nuckle in ear and press on the endof the rod with the end of your thumb. (Thanks David,(thoughtt I'd better put this here tho,)safe!
What people are trying to explain is a proceedure used by motor engineers for decades. What you need is a long rod of hardwood (softwood will do but does not transmit sound as well) 12mm Ramin dowel will do fine. Glue a small (preferably slightly dished) disk about 4cm diameter of harwood onto one end and shave the other end to a rounded off point, you now have your sounding rod.With the engine running, place disk against your ear and the pointed end against various parts of the engine taking care not to foul moving parts. you will hear the knocking from most places, but where it is the loudest, is the source of the problem. Then consult the workshop manual to check what in that part of the engine could be causing the knocking.
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I'ts difficult to resist enhancing these vintage things, but how well was it painted(probably marvellous!),and how long will it last(possibly another 3000years) so if it aint broke don't fix it. Unless of course you plan to cruise solo round the world with limited tools and candle light, then I'd go for a lighter colour. Allthough externally I think it deserves a bit of visuals with the show.
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I'm thinking box, rather than rack system, and trying to avoid electric, and hope the ironwork can handle things should the fluid run out.
Asuming one has the strength to steer both ways! -
I'm thinking box, rather than rack system, and trying to avoid electric, and hope the ironwork can handle things should the fluid run out.
Asuming one has the strength to steer both ways! -
Why do you want to paint the inside of the engine? The best it will do is fall off and block an oilway. My thoughts would be to rid the paint thats there and let the oil do its work.
Too Right!
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Is"scrapyard challenge", steering box,powersteering unit, driveshaft and steering wheel? Or I'm in the wrong scrap yard?
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A virtual waterways community...?
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Try pushing a long socket extension bar into your ear, then press the other end against your engine in diffrent places, this gives a pretty good impression of the internal noises. Also clean arround injectors where they rest in the head, you should find a dished area here. Fill with liquid,and check for bubbles. Bubbles=Knocking Injectors, possibly loosened.Try pushing a long socket extension bar into your ear, then press the other end against your engine in diffrent places, this gives a pretty good impression of the internal noises.Also clean arround injectors where they rest in the head, you should find a dished area here. Fill with liquid,and check for bubbles. Bubbles=Knocking Injectors, possibly loosened.
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Place metal drift or chisel, sharp end to left of bolt, bash gently but firm to start nick for grip, then bash harder once a grip point is cut into metal to swivel.
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Force water into the vent pipe with a hose, whilst pumping out. may take several atempts and rinses to clear.
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Brass strips/coutersunk to revive angle sliders, bash rust off and red oxide first. Nylon blocks aprox 1 1/4in. sq.(or more, with grooves cut with play for angle & strips. Bolt into these through hatch sides and adjust side play using screw thread in sidehatch bolt hole. 4, 1 in each "corner".
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o what was there before this development was put in place by henry ward a rich and powerful coal merchant,was it farm land that some rich company director turned into a boatyard at the first sign of a few guinea,s profit while working the boatmen of old into early graves.
so the ward family of landowners took the opportunity to make lots of money,so much money they could afford to build churches to help further the hold they had over the local population and enhance the amount of money to be made.they are now looked on as great people who done good for the community by some posters,now bw are the land owners who want to develop the same land but they are the bad guys.
it is called progress,live with it.
also my comment "shoot them all" was an attempt at humour as another has pointed out and this group of protesters must be one of the few groups that have not suffered the "shoot em all hang them high"shout from some of the posters.
i pay for a bw mooring that is very good for my needs but if they come tomorrow and tell me i have to move on i will do so because it is their right to do so.
these people have had a very good place but they are now being told to move,it is very simple and they should stop acting the goat.
thousands of people around this country are being moved from the terraced streets in line with the heartlands program that will see the development of new housing more suitable to peoples needs today,now some people just do not want to move as the love the terraced houses but the cost of bringing them up to scratch is not on.
many businesses are contained in the same area,s and have been there for generations but they have to go,what is the difference between them firms and the boatyard,probably the only difference is these businesses have viable future while the boatyard does not.
money talks the loudest,why have them in the yard not raised the cash to buy the yard themselves instead of using all their energy to cost bw money in legal costs.
i am sure people can find some other protest that is more worthwhile than this to support.
save the bloodworm maybe.java script:emoticon('
', 'smid_23') -
The only problem with that is, these days, relacement of a govt. dept usually means privatisation. Privatisation would make BW's mindless quest for profit over conservation pale into insignificance.
One thing we as individuals can do is; identify waterways structures which are worth keeping and applying to have them listed. Then bw would have a legal responsibility to maintain and preserve the property and not just sell it off for demolition and development.java script:emoticon('
', 'smid_18')The canal network is presently "on ice" regarding tranport and freight, and is being given an environmental health check while the oportunity arises. B.W.B. cannot look after parts of the network responsibly. In some parts of Oxford they try and sell parts of our heritage, and in others the try and steal it. This is of no example to any body replacing B.W.B's responsibilities. Even an inkling, that this kind of behaviour is acceptable, will upset the fine balance of diverity, and potential, for the canal network. Listing buildings is yet another restriction to the network, B.W.B. should not be a threat to these buildings, they should be conserving them; and any potential they may have, rather than inspiring such horrors as planning restrictions!
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Craning a woodern boat in such poor condition is not advised. Presently, this yard would advise repairing your boat, in the water. There are many reasons for this, namely, avoiding shrinkage in the wood, and the
tendancy to under estimate the time it takes to completely refurbish a boat in poor condition. There is a dry
dock on site, presently,unused,due to the neccesity to re-design the set up previously installed, as we have no assurance of it's safety; however advice can be offered on restoring woodern boats.
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Castlemill Wharf is being claimed by British Waterways, having registered it in 1988,Their rights to this yard are extremely limited; and as a consequence they are in dispute with the locals, council and boat owners.Despite this Jericho Boatyard is plodding on! We are craning boats into the water on the 5th of june and hope to crane more out for free, or donations, all subsidised by the "save the boatyard campaign".Telephone 01865559481 for informatoin or drop in.
Why not help us save our jobs; and preserve your boat at the same time, self help projects gladly recieved. Fees are charged for use of yard and electricity; currently standing at £5.00 P.W.
Asuming one has the strength to steer both ways!
', 'smid_23')
Fitting toilet on tank
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
To prevent movement I suggest an even thicker bit of ply built as the top of a box over the tank. (Is it threaded through a bulkhead or cupboard, if so this could be part of the sides. )Then find a piece of the right grade and size plastic pipe to butt up to the waste outlet, and poke through your hole in the ply and tank. cut this to fit neatly,protruding into the tank by about a cm. Embed your pipe in sealant. I suggest covering the boxing with plastic lino stuff before screwing on the toilet, and even putting another bit of ply on top of the tank before starting the whole mission, so you have more depth for the securing screws. High modulous sylicone sealant seems a good allrounder for preventing leaks.