Malarky
-
Posts
648 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Malarky
-
-
First the war, now another James Forlong style reporting blunder costs the royal mail dearly.
-
With difficulty...
Seriously though, I intend to mount the ring gear on a standoff/flange that I am having laser cut for accuracy. When that is complete, the whole assembly will be clamped to the flywheel adn centred using a dial indicator. Then the flywheel will be drilled and tapped to fix the flange of the mounting.
The problem was, as with most vintage diesels, that the outer face of the flywheel is dished so there is nothing to attach to anywhere near the centre.
That's the theory anyway...
Regards
Arnot
I thought it was heated someplace allowing it to slip on and cool tight in position. Or has the world of engineerng changed, hence the survival of two pound coins and similar, which can be "holed" useing a candle!
-
Not much response yet so thought I'd start the ball rolling, sorry it's not a photo; just a quick sketch.
-
-
Hmmm....I'd keep it as it is...nice and quiet....and have a small CD player hidden in your back cabin playing a range of engine sounds on a continuous loop....you could have different tracks for different types of engine according to your mood!
Won't sound right without a rave dj's mixer box adapted to speed and slow the sound via the throttle cable, even a bit of "sustain" for the tiller, and "reverb" for the gear change!
-
Check out what's with them fat chromey exhausts boy racers have sticking out of the back of those little cars they drive?
Pick the brain cell of a chav?
-
Not far from Brewood, between bridges 11 and 12 on the Shroppie. Moored on the offside is boat No 72466, displaying a 2005 licence but no mooring permit.
It's been there for years, been reported to BW at least a year ago, so I think there's been enough time to go through any legal process and impound the boat. Why is it still there?
Something to do with physics?
-
When the engine is first started from cold, do you get gas bubbling out of the water, and even a bit of smoke, especially when given a bit of throttle? If so it's the gasket. It will be easy for you to take appart and service, just get all the correct torque settings for it first, and of course a torque wrench. Once you have sussed that you'll have a fair idea of what is involved. If it's running smooth, I'd just give the head and piston tops a good clean and replace the rings, big ends, injector washers and gasket.
-
A shot of a wooden top, has a gap for insulation, venting and wires, two layers of ply and paint soaked canvas went over that. All built out of recycled materials.
-
I suppose where a canal ends and draws a blank is a canus then.
-
Whats the crack with the easy outs (has anyone actually used them to get pigs of bolts out), will they handle the strain, and won't they expand the bolt being cone shaped? Is tapping annother bolt into it with two nuts tight together for extraction not a better option?
-
I don't think you'll stand much chance of "riveting" it in with a good bashing, more likely to break the cast.
edited as started new "thread"
-
Is the top right bolt now straighter on refitting, as you could bolt a piece of angle with fillets welded on the end(or ends heated and bent over at right angles) between the rear and front bracket to stop it twisting about, and even drill a hole opposite the bottom right bolt, and put a longer one through the whole bracket. I don't see the point of taking the engine out untill you have to for some other reason.
-
Probably snapped ages ago when bolted in, and the other bolts were keeping it all true regardless? Or am I seeing how it fixes all wrong.
If it is ultimately necessary an alternative could be to get a stud brazed onto it, or tap a smaller bolt into what is left, and hope for a rust fit for when it has to be undone, several years later, with any luck!
As far as getting the rest of the bolt out is concerned, all I can think is to somehow drill a row of small holes to make a slit for a select flat head screwdriver bit in a socket bar or ratchet , firmly wedged in place useing whatever part of the boat is in the way to wedge from.
-
Are you certain that's straight, looks like it leans to the starboard slightly!
No seriously, looking good. Are you going to put those "barbars" shop syle spirals down the bar?
-
I dropped out at 16, to change the square world rather than take it over, made it round, retired from that at 17 into a subsistance existance(the nature of boating); never been out of work, people always need stuff done, or is it that there are always people who are stuffed! I assume one needs 360 degrees to watch your back effectively.
-
Not flakey? Try giving it a bash with a hammer, as you may find that there is just one huge flake under there!
-
The v shaped hull can loose you some head height at the sides. I met Joe Springer many years ago whilst working on one of his boats, and he was surprised at how well they were faring, and reconed a new lease of life could possibly be gained by simply filling the bottom with concrete, He was obviously totaly dedicated to ensuring cheep quality boating for people!
-
Gangway for mooring allongside?
-
You could just browse some images, fairground, wagons, playing cards, logos; whatever inspires, It's only some writing that can double up as wallpaper!
-
If t isn't makng any scary knocking sounds; ie. bearings, could it be a slack timing chain?
-
What's it like when given a few short blasts of full revs? Any way of linking to a recording of it running?
-
my interpretation is that it is left when looking at rear of cooker i:e same as the drawing. the reasoning as far as i can see is the vent on the right being able to exceed 50 degrees which is the temperature stated as a maximum for LPG hoses. hoses used must conform to BS669 part1 or flexible hoses to BS3212 type 2 (max length 1mtr)
kev
I am a gassafe registered engineer and that is my opinion.
That seems likely, I was trying to point out that the piping style being used could be at fault, those BS nos. should be a usefull cross refrence too.
-
Maybe it's the pipe type that is at fault here, although of course the manual seems typicly mysterious!
I don't see why the pipe being left or right should make much difference, as you'd want to use a double armoured hose in a pre-made length that bolts the cooker to you'r easily accessed shut off switch. This should enable you to pull the cooker out to check the back without disconecting it, and cosequently give enough play for connecting to either side.
Where is my leak coming from?!
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Damp ain't too bad as long as you keep active!