Stormbringer
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Posts posted by Stormbringer
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We learned to share also.....
Just wish they wouldn't crap on the curtains tho
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Just saw the other thread too....hmmmm.
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Why do humans always want to kill natural things that don't behave as they want them to ?
And just exactly what damage is a swan, with its plastic beak, no teeth, and hollow boned wings going to do to a dog full of teeth and claws, with a natural, inbred killer instinct (ie a hunter) ?
Also, monetary value has no sway in the natural world, ....all animals being equal and all that...
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Brass thingy is the gas valve .....and yes, that is where the controlling bit happens ....
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27 minutes ago, blackrose said:
The place that sold me the new element suggested putting the fridge on full cooling for a couple of hours with everything else on the boat switched off, and then turning the adjustment down to minimum. I should be able to see if the thermostat is working by looking at my mains Owl monitor.
Two brown, one earth
That will work...I have a modified hook up lead with the live available for a clamp meter...very handy
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On 13/07/2017 at 18:36, blackrose said:
I haven't managed to get the element out but I'm going to order a new one from ebay anyway. Does anyone know how I check/remove the thermostat on this fridge? Apparently if the thermostat is faulty and isn't switching the fridge off when required, it soon overheats and burns out the element.
Thanks
Your fridge would be iced up and food on the top shelf would probably start to freeze. If unsure I would monitor the fridge with a clamp meter ..they pull about half an amp @ 240 v
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Just now, mrsmelly said:
" Integration with the boat "
I like that..................sounds proper..................
Lol...not sure where that came from
Must be the coffee
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2 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:
You are quite right but the is one HUMUNGOUS difference. With stand alone diesel gennies you have two lots of diesel to pay for when the engine and gennie are running whereas the beauty of the TP is the fact it runs off the main engine and barely adds to fuel useage and takes very little space up.
The one thing that the TP wins hands down on is it's integration with the boat.
It take very little space up.....and is dead easy to use....
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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Buy another one 'up norf', spend a couple of months heading South, painting the interior white as you go.
When you get somewhere near the M25put an advert on Apollo Duck with a price twice what you paid - it'll sell within a couple of days and you'll have the cash just in time to get your boat back.
Quality reply Alan
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I love mine
I can run washing machine whilst cruising. Run engine for less time when charging batteries, same for getting hot water..use big power tools when out on the cut without hammering the batteries...
It came fitted to the boat...but I'm not sure I would cough up for a new one , I don't think they are cheap!
1 minute ago, cereal tiller said:+1,2 75 AMP. alternators and a 3.KW Inverter does everything necessary,and if one or both should fail they are usually easy to source and cheap to replace.
The Travelpower is expensive to repair and usually means considerable Down time.
This is probably what I would do, for the exact reasons CT has stated here
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You could try and get the examiner who wired it to 'educate' the one who failed it!.....and then report him anyway....
As others have mentioned above he doesn't sound competent ..
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3 minutes ago, blackrose said:
On the ohms setting I'm getting a reading of about 0.4 so I assume the fuse is fine?
I just called a service agent in the area and he asked me if the back of the fridge was getting hot on mains. When I said no he said it's likely to be the mains heating element. Is this something I could change myself?
Yes...if you can get the fridge out !
Just a resistive heating element , one for 12v and one for 240v .. they are tucked in the side of the insulation around the boiler section of the fridge, and they connect on top of the fridge electrically.
The test to see if they are the problem is again an ohms reading...around 420 iirc for a good mains one...it's probably gone open circuit if it hasn't taken the fuse out.
Replacements available from online caravan spared suppliers ...
Cheers
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Something wrapped around the prop maybe ?
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On 28/06/2017 at 19:20, Eeyore said:
Yes it would be nice to see steel boats with a proper recessed service connection box/ cupboard. Straight connectors in the "roof" of the cupboard, and cables exiting from a suitably "smoothed" gap below the access door. Just a thought
They do actually exist!
Sadly not common enough though...it just seems too low down the' must have' list for new buyers...and then just gets left as is I guess as the boat gets sold on ......
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And.if you seal that gap ..how will the spiders get out at night to mess up your windows and catch food .....
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Just as an aside...the reason I suspect that the caravan inlets are only IP44 rated is that they reside inside a water tight (ish ) battery box, or sometimes in their own little mini cupboard....which ever method is used they have pretty good weather resistance due to the depth of recess, and the covers or doors of the enclosure...unlike most narrowboats where they are stuck to the outside bulkhead!....uncovered!.....
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I used a spray bottle with water in and just kept my old boy damped down...
Worked a treat ... and was free !
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They look like caravan type reading lamps to me...you could replace them like for like, and just fit led bulbs to them. Or even renovate the ones you already have.
Led bulbs of all types are readily available everywhere. I used eBay but there are UK suppliers if you want advice about fitting led replacement bulbs.
Opinions vary, but my cheap Chinese bulbs have been fine for a few years now ,
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1 hour ago, jonathanA said:
Worth looking st GS controls reasonable quality at reasonable (by marine standards) price. Includes Resettable circuit breakers can't understand why anyone would want to faff about with fuses.
gscontrols.com I think
I've got two 6 way panels from gs and am happy with them. Resettable breakers...look quite nice...no trouble at all in 5 years use...
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Or maybe the black bits are from the pump internals, given the OPs other post? Although if that were the case, then surely there would be evidence in the water coming from the taps...
Just thinking aloud...HTH...
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Not using any arduino stuff interacting with the boat's systems (yet!), but do play arduino quite a bit....
And am really enjoying using a ras pi as my main daily drive...great for internet and music / video... and only 10 watts....
Great fun, and has helped with my electronic education no end, as it's so easy to set up experiments.
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I have heard of other people having problems with the thermostat on shoreline fridges. The contacts play up on them ...I know two of those people overcame the problem ...one by reversing the polarity of the thermostat, and one by using a relay ....don't really know the technical details I'm sorry, but there is a lot of info online about the danfoss compressor control circuit .....
Cheers
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In my experience the lockies do tend to run minimum water levels. We grounded on the cill going up last autumn and the lock keeper legged up and let some water down pretty sharpish..he said it was pretty normal for boats to drag on the cill between the locks ! We are not a deep boat either....
I didn't enjoy the experience much to be honest.....
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6 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:
Don't forget that the inverter itself uses energy, so if you have to run it all the time for the fridge to work you need to factor in that consumption.
Does anyone have experience of the wee portable fridges designed to be plugged into a car lighter socket? Obviously no good for a live-aboard, but for occasional recreational use?
We used to use one for camping...I believe they are horrendously inefficient 12v wise.... but then I guess they really expect to have a car alternator powering them for the most part....
So I suppose for occasional use they may work for some people.....
Electrical issues - please point me in the right direction.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Have had this issue when one of the belts on my Lister 4 pot engine was slipping due to high alternator load / slack belt combination.
Might be work another check of the belt tension / pully condition.