Jamesb4uk
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Posts posted by Jamesb4uk
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That would be my next idea to somehow modify the wooden superstructure to enable me to crawl out a window/hatch.
cruisers around me here have dual systems but they are all electronic so not much help.my boat being a 1967 isn't that advanced
which is fine by me!James
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Hi all,
A couple of months ago I changed from my 42ft narrowboat to a Bourne 35ft centre cockpit Broads cruiser.
Although I'm getting comfortable controlling the boat, I've only taken her out with the cockpit slid back & friends to help out.
I could happily self hand the NB, but this I'm not too sure unless the roof is slid back - not a good plan with standard UK weather!question I suppose is - would it be possible to retrofit a second steering position on the rear exterior bulkhead and steer from the rear gunwale?
cable throttle seems straight forward, but there is already a chain from the cockpit wheel, attaching to a steering shaft down one side which then connects to the rudder - this I'm not sure off (I haven't had a look to see this working yet).
James
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Thanks all,
might go with the pump out kit inside as it keeps the gunwale free...
James
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yeah in in built systems I believe they do.
the bowl I have now goes straight into the tank, so no pump/macerator inside the boat - what I'm thinking if possible is to do a external one fitted to the deck connector.
if not its just an excuse to go boating I suppose!
James
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Afternoon all,
After 2 years on a narrowboat with cassette loo's I've now got a broads cruiser with pump out... (will still carry a porta potty!!)
Question is - I'm currently moored at tidal Medway Bridge with no pump out facilities - they all use sea toilets here - Allington's the nearest pump out station.
Can I construct/buy a macerator pump concoction to suck out from the tank deck connector overboard rather than rip out he current bog, fit a sea loo & under water sea cock outlet?
James
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I'm seeing that as a general rule Carl - could be a long term project!
There is conflicting information as to if she's Falcon or Plover - length in the 2011 survey seems to suggest the later at 35ft.
I've asked for a hull survey as there was some concern over the transom and she's had a GRP shell over the original wood deck - like you said truly chopped about.
but still more character in my eyes & worth taking a closer look at.
James
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I used Rylards Premium on mine, after scraping & angle grinding the hull then a couple of coats of Fertan rust converter.
I was out for a couple of months but the hull took 2/3 weeks as I was letting the coats harden before applying the next.
I can also recommend the pressure washer route & the long handled scrapers - made things a LOT easier!
James
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see this is what I'm unsure off,
I'm prepared for more maintenance, but boat yards on the Medway are more geared towards cruisers than Narrowboats, even smaller ones like forest.
So antifouling every 2/3 years instead of blacking every 4 should be reasonable.
Varnishing the top decks & above waterline shouldn't be too bad as I can do those afloat. I have a mate who's a carpenter by trade and can teach me what I need to know..
James
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Thanks Phil,
There seems to be a bit of confusion as to what she is I've seen an advert from 2005 stating she's 35ft- I'll find out for sure Saturday not I know what to look for
.James
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wow thanks for that Carl,
I was going to havea trawl round the net after work tonight! looks like she's had a lot of work done on her recently.
James
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ahh thanks for that Carl nice to see a similar class to get ideas.
if I do go ahead I'll be removing the white top coat & try & bring her back to the original look....
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I don't think the boat you are looking at is Broadland Swan
Yes that old myth makes me weary too.
Broads cruisers are pretty easy to maintain and, if in good order, cost little more than a steel boat to keep on top of.
If it needs a lot of work, though, then it can be a money pit (just like a knackered steel boat needing loads of plating).
From what I can find on her history she's a Ripplecraft Broadlands Swan, more info will be gained on Saturday & i'll be booking a survey should I even think about it seriously.
tbh the wood side worries me a bit but along the Medway boatyards aren't really setup for narrowboats - mine was craned & loaded on a flatbed last year so that cost a fair amount!
In stead of 4 year blackings I'm guessing that's cut to 2 in wooden boats?
James
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Hi everyone,
I'm seriously considering selling forest & getting boat number 2.
Living on forest has been great for nearly 2 years however its very restrictive finding residential moorings on the Medway for a 42ft boat.
I'm booked in to view a Broadland Swan - 1946 build (wood hull & cabin)
coming from a narrowboat I realise maintenance will be very different & more regular to keep on top of her.
What would be needed though? she has a survey from 2011, repainted 2012.
first thing would be a new hull survey, BSC work & repair engine's I believe she has an inboard Lister.
Thanks for any help
James
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Morning all,
Does anyone know any suppliers that have deals on batteries at the moment?
I'm after a starter battery for mine & several of the other boats down this way need leisures so thought I'd see if anyone was doing a bulk buy deal?
JB
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If it helps i used 15 litres (Rylards) on a 42 footer.
2 coats on the base & 3 along the waterline.
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exterior mostly painted.
new 12v & 230v starting this week.
still have gas & water system to redo
and the dreaded BSS to prepair for!
alot of very useful guideance from here though making things a lot easier
JB
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I think it needs a bit more support in the middle of the boat than it currently has - just an observation!
its been like that for 3 months with no sign of breaking so far!
Over the years I have had to re seal most of my windows but what I have found with a couple in particular is they will drip every now and then and then nothing for a very long time.
It has to be down to wind and rain direction?
You can get a correct sealer for windows that stays flexible and is great and I have had no problems with it the product I used was called Marine Bedding Sealant.
Plenty of people use silicone and it works ok but the problem with this is if it fails in one corner say the rest of the window will be stuck fast and a real pain to separate the window from the boat.
Your hull looks similar to my boat and if your boat is by Arkwright then as with my experience the original windows were sealed with a type of putty? or similar sealant and rust forming behind the sealant caused the windows to drip and were relatively easy to remove, the windows that had previously resealed with silicone were a very different story.
The hoppers drain channels were indeed blocked - but sealent will be added when it stops raining!
The slides i'm still trying to find the rubber chanels for which seems to be the cause of the leaks, not forming a seal when the windows are closed..
btw mines a Springer 1980's ex hireboat.
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thanks all
had a look last night & they're screw in jobs so should be easy to take out.
the slide windows are leaking due to the rubber seal channel that the slide part window sits in being worn or non existant.
i'll have a look at the hopper window tonight
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Strange one here - in the last year living aboard my windows have never leaked, ever.
however i powerwashed the boat ready for painting & all of a sudden 3 of the boats windows are now leaking quite a lot.
I can only assume powerwashing them has dislodged seals/mould that was keeping the rain at bay.
can they be repaired without sending them off? i spoke to a couple of places who cant get them back until after my crane in date.
1 hopper & 2 slides are the ones leaking.
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Is not far - on the map its 8 miles
i'll see if i can haggle with the drivers my boatyard owner used previously.
may beable to use a smaller crane this time too as i think it was a 15t one last time.
Thanks all
James
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ahh fair enough - had no experiance of this before so didnt know if it was in the right ball park.
thanks
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Hmm, tempted but unsure.
I have a Samsung laptop (not a particularly rare brand or model either) and have twice now fallen foul of buying multi- tip 'fits the vast majority of laptops 12v chargers and then finding none of the tips fit.
I think I'm going to have to pony up for one specific to my model only, at the associated premium cost.
Bummer.
Which Samsung is it? i might be able to point you in a good place to get one.
James
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As above really,
I'm looking to come back in in the first week of July.
42ft boat weighing in at under 10 tonnes, verified by the lift out.
Just wondering if anyone in the South East knows of a good company to try?
Located currently in Chiddingstone, Kent & being lifted on to the Medway at Tonbridge, Kent.
previously used company were good, but at over £1500 for crane & flatbed seems a bit steep.
James
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Some of you may remember me, i am new to boating and bought a boat " Blinded by love".
Basically i bought a narrowboat to help out a "good friend" who has turned out not to be so good.
Purchased a 45ft springer narrowboat from Turks boatyard in Kingston. Thought I had got a bargin on sale for 27k paid 22k. Boat was only being used occasionally in preparation to get ready for a liveaboard. Finally secured mooring @ TDM, all was well or so I thought.
I had started to notice on the odd night i stayed there that a banging was coming from under the sink, on looking it looked like the water pump was vibrating, could only stop noise by turning the water pump switch off. Then tried to have a shower, could not get hot water from the shower or any water come to that matter, again looked under floor and if u shook the pump it kicked in to drain away the water from the tray, but u had no chance of getting in the shower! let alone getting hot water.
Then to my dismay, it seemed as if I had run out of water, so i went on hunt for the water tank to fill up. Found at the front of the boat a cap but u could not underdo with your bare hands, i was not given a wrench or spanner to open this. I gave up. I moved to my parents.
I decided tgo go back to the owner and mention these small but annoying problems..... in short he relinquished all knowledge of any of these faults and basically i was on my own. Great.
Ive not been back since, oh I have to take photos to try to sell the blasted thing. The " Good friend" gone too. Cant handle the pressure.
As i am at a marina they have basically said they are brokers, and
1 I should not have paid more than 18k for it.
2. it has not been Slipped? Could anyone tell me what that means please? Basic language not boating language.
3. Anodes are not in water? Pass big time.
They have said it is a lovely boat but certainly saw me coming.....
Before anyone asks NO i did not get a survey done, as boatyard has 300years upon the river and well known, I was told it had been in dry dock for 15years on someones parking lot!
I thought the original add said year 1995, but turns out its 1985. All i was given was a "bill of sale", i asked for a BSS was told it did not need one or have one.
Have now advertised it on Apolloduck & Boatsand outboards, for sale, Marina want 8% plus vat of the sale.
I have been advised by another friend who has a marina locally that i should get legal advise but think its a case of bought as seen.
Please can anyone help with my question, Going to have to swallow a huge loss me thinks!
If the tanks anything like mine you should have a key for it. similar to the Pump Out fitting - Chrome GUIDI type with key.
though if you've turned off the water pump it wont have enough pressure to supply a shower?
my bow anodes sat above the water line due to the tank not being filled - i've now put on new anodes lower down so regardless they sit in the water.
anyway - like others its a shame as the problems seem relativly minor, mines a 1980's 42ft Springer & in cracking condition.
I paid 32k for mine, which is over the top but it did come with residential moorings.
James
which is fine by me!
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Retrofit Dual Steering.
in Boat Equipment
Posted
well that's my thinking too - though i'm not after remote controlled.
just an easier self handed steering location.
If I can run a chain down to the aft end of the shaft already in place, then just add a linkage through the bulkhead with a removable wheel assembly.
then all I need is a 2nd throttle linkage to the engine bay.
James