JDR
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Posts posted by JDR
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boatcat, absolutely no need to apologise for anything. On the other hand the poster on the other thread that described that paint colour as "puce". Now that hurt.
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As the boat seller I would like to clarify that I am happy for any buyer to have any survey or inspection they desire.
I have spoken to Braunston and believe there may be some miscommunication. Before they accept a boat on brokerage they insist on a full survey. Although not standard practice I agreed to this as it made sense on a number of levels. Any potential buyer has access to an independent report on the hull condition before considering making an offer, that has to be a positive thing as it avoids the possibility of spending hundreds of pounds on a full survey to find that a boat potentially needs expensive remedial work.
I hope the buyers were given a copy of the survey. I believe (from memory= the lowest point on the baseplate was 9.5mm and 5.6mm on the sides. The only wear on the hull is above the waterline below the skin fittings for the galley waste in a small area which is still 4mm +.
I believe what has been suggested is that it is possible to transfer the hull survey to the new owner, this would (I am making an assumption here) include any liability for the accuracy of the report. I also strongly believe that the buyer should have the choice to pay for their own full survey including another hull survey if that is their wish, or indeed any independent inspection they feel fit to commission.
I have no intention of selling a boat with any faults ( I can´t say there will not be some issues turned up on a survey, I would be very surprised if a boat over twenty years old didn´t have something that needs rectification, however trivial).
I was surprised about the comment on the survey about not being able to inspect the internal hull as their is an inspection hatch in the bedroom close to the engine room bulkhead but being under the carpet was obviously not visible at the time.
I hope this clarifies my position as the seller.
Thanks
John
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As the current owner of Aquarius, thanks for all the comments.
The engine (Beta BV1505) is direct water cooled with it´s own skin tank. As is the genset. The engine for the the genset is a Beta BV1305 which uses between .75ltr/hr to 1ltr/hr depending on load.
The solar panel is a 250W Sanyo HIT the most efficient panel (19%) I am aware of. MPPT is a Steca.
There is also a secondary cooling system for the engine which has an intake from the weed hatch if temp reaches above 85deg C. There is a heat exchanger between the engine and skin tank, the cold water from the river/canal is expelled on the the port side. If wanted this system could be disconnected in ten seconds but is useful on long river runs. The previous owner spent time on the tidal Thames and Trent.
The calorifier is heated by the engine, the heater element is 1kw. A brand new Surecal was fitted by Hilperton in 2010. The calorifier has insulation already fitted. The immersion element is vertical. In October last year I had to leave the boat for two months to go to India for work. Being paranoid about frost damage I put a spare single duvet on the top of the calorifier to prevent any frost damage.
The calorifier will produce hot water after 30 minutes, after a long run you will have hot water for a couple of dayse genie.
Powering the immersion by the generator is also an option. Given the power output of the gennie whenever the washing machine was used I would always put he immersion on at the same time as well as charging anything that needed charging charging to put some load on the genset.
When I first got the boat it had 1" galvanised steel pipe running off a backboiler on a Parkray stove running the length of the boat. I replaced the stove and replaced the galvanised steel with 28mm copper (gravity/convection) intending to add rads but found it worked so well without any rads that I left it with just the copper pipe. It is an unpressurised system, completely safe and has worked perfectly since 2009.
Boat was repainted in 2012, absolutely no rust on superstructure. Water tank cleaned at same time and new cratch cover fitted.
Water in the engine bilge was due to a new bilge pump fitted by me with with an off/off/auto switch being left in off position by mistake.I thought I had mopped most of it up, apologies if there is anything left.
Please contact Paul at Braunston with any other questions and I will do my best to answer any queries to the best of my ability.
Surveyor for the hull was Craig Allen, who I had never met before but found very straightforward to deal with I have no problem with any potential buyer contacting Craig direct.
Sorry for the decor!
Cheers
John
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On the Shurflo pumps I have seen the pressure switch mechanism is on the "top" of the pump where the connections are for the incoming and outgoing water connections, secured by four screws with an additional screw hidden by a label that can alledgedly be used to adjust cut in and cut out pressures. It is part of the pump, as long as it is connected correctly to a 12v supply no extra relays are required. I would advise leaving it alone if it is working OK as from memory when I took one apart there is a spring behind the switch and it can be a bit of a faff to put back together properly.
There are differing opinions on Shurflo pumps, I had one which was machine gun noisy but worked OK for years but the replacement was dead in 18 months. If you do need to replace the pressure switch there is also the option of buying an external inline pressure switch rather than using the one provided with pump. Whale used to sell them for around £20.
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There are some private moorings behind Brampton Mill and some spaces in front of the pub.Don't know who owns the moorings at the back but you could try the pub on 01480459758.
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I know someone who bought a boat with the name "Lady Beaver". For reasons unknown he changed the name to Belladonna. His so called mate then got some small vinyl lettering in the same font and colour and added the word kebab on the bow lettering.
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Welcome!
This has been covered many times on this forum, have a search using the search box top right of every page.
Broadly speaking there is no log book, no ownership register, you are on your own as far as establishing the person selling the boat to you owns it and is entitled to sell it.
If they have a big folder full of invoices for repairs, old licences, moorings bills etc all addressed to the seller at their home address, and you can ge tto visit them at that same address to verify they truly live there, you are unlikely to get stitched up.
MtB
I agree with the bit about the folder full of docs, I would expect to see old licence discs, BSS certificates, correspondence from BW or CART, receipts for maintenance and most importantly a Bill of Sale. If the sale was from a known existing broker then even better.
I do take issue with the verifiable home address. I know lots of boaters who do not have permanent shoreside addresses but rely on mail forwarding services or the goodwill of friends or family. All the addresses I have used in the UK while living on a boat have been city centre offices for mail forwarding services. Good enough for banks, my employers, the Home Office, and DVLA but you would get some very strange looks if you turned up in person asking to speak to me.
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The first part of the job is to remove any loose rust and prep the surface of the tank for painting. This is not difficult in itself but the job is invariably made a lot more difficult due to restricted access. You could use scrapers then vacuum loose rust from the bottom but I would urge caution if you try and use power tools in such a confined space. Some people use bitumen paint (same as you would use for the hull) but only if it is described as potable (ie drinkable). I used several coats of Vactan which is safe for domestic water systems. Whichever paint you use the longer you can let each coat cure the better. I bought a heat gun to help cure the Vactan and this transforms the job from a week for three coats to dry properly to 48 hours. After five years it is certainly time for a look, when I did my tank which is internal to the bow the rust looked horrific but after a couple of days cleaning I was relieved to find the tank in very good condition. I would also recommend finding some method of plugging the exit hole from the tank to avoid any loose rust or debris entering the system during cleaning. It is not a pleasant job but satisfying to know the state of the tank you are drinking from. Good luck.
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Hope the thieving scrote is picked up soon. Somebody stole my Thesaurus last week; the rapscallion, blaggard, ne'er do well, scoundrel, five finger discount merchant, heister, larcenist, pilferer, purloiner, pillager, plunderer, miscreant, scallywag.
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There are a lot of aspects of living on a boat that are potentially low impact relative to living in a house. Having to be acutely aware of power use and generation, not being able to take the use of power hungry household items for granted, being more aware of the existing weather and nature in general but the thing for me that makes me raise an eyebrow when the words enviromentally friendly and boating are combined is the engine.
With very few exceptions to go boating on inland waterways involves running an engine, in the case of narrowboats invariably a diesel. All electric boats are vanishingly rare, normally diesel electric hybrids with powerful inboard diesel gensets. If the intention is to offset this by reducing the amount of engine use this seems to be a bit self-defeating.
My definition of a truly enviromentally friendly living arrangement would have to include the land to grow your own food and keep lifestock, something which is not a possibility on the average narrowboat ( awaits inevitable picture a pig pen on the back deck of a widebeam).
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Like this one
The boat below Woolhampton lock, has to be a strong contender for the worst mooring on the system.
I´ve seen that boat in Winter with the river in full spate nearly in the garden listing at a mad angle.
Regarding the OP, Marinas with very few exceptions aren´t designed for ease of navigation they are designed to fit as many boats into a limited space as possible. I´d personally sacrífice the view for the piece of mind of not being bashed on a regular basis, doubt it´will get any better in the long run.
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Hi hopefulboater, in Portugal at the mo, text me on +447474 space 001485 and I'll give you a good email addy but might not be able to read it for a few days.Cheers John (unable to access PMs on this connection)
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You can get dimmable LEDs, Midland Swindlers sell ones with a blue dot in the centre, you just keep your finger on the light to adjust the brightness.
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Candles unless beeswax are not good in a confined living area. Having been in a housefire caused by candles can't say I'm a fan. LEDs use fraction of amp, of all the expenses involved with boating lighting comes a long way down the list.
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Narrowboat Paints will sell you paint mixed with anti slip granules and they do a raddle red.
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Private online moorings at Burton Farm, Burton Hastings, don't know the number but think it is on a board as you go past.The farm is on Rightmove at the moment with planning permission for a 100 berth marina. Bosworth marina opening in September if you get stuck.Loads of space on the CRT moorings at Grendon just north of the Atherstone flight.
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Wait until Nigel Farage finds out about these new immigrants, he'll have an eppy.
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Looks like a Canaline marinisation of a Kioti engine. Can't comment never come across one in the flesh, but I'm sure someone has.
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Brand new boat for £60k can't see a problem. Engine is listed as "Engines Plus" which I've never heard of. No galvanic isolator, boat that new I'd be tempted to fork out for an isolation transformer. Layout is good for leisure use but not ideal for liveaboard, dinette style seating isn't something to relax on.I'd personally factor in the cost of new signwriting after a name change but that's subjective.
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Rosie & Jim dolls, the best method of destroying them.
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I've been impressed with the sound output from 12v T-Amps, normally around 25W per channel output.
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Another problem is people trying to bash their undersized pins in with a small lump hammer.You can hear the rythmic tapping noise going on for ages when some some people moor.A sledgehammer is the proper tool for the job.
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As there is no underlying fault and the reason for the battery being flattened is known then I would be confident of solar doing the trick ( albeit at a slower rate for the reason Deans gave above). You might be waiting until midday tomorrow but yet another bonus for solar, a great last ditch power source.
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I've had to it before, it works but will take a while depending on your solar setup.Is there not enough in your leisure batteries to turn the engine over if jumped across to domestics?
made an offer and am now a bit confused
in New to Boating?
Posted
Fair comment, but I was stood in the drydock at the time the survey was done. No blame attributed, it didn´t occur to me to tell him about the hatch. I think he did a thorough job on the survey and found him very professional and straightforward to deal with. It is not a big issue but may be of interest to anyone that buys the boat to know the hatch exists.