[Water in cabin bilge]

6 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I guess by now (4 years later) the OP has sorted the problem or sunk.

Haha maybe so but people ( like me) still find these threads useful.

[Water in cabin bilge]

IMO condensation can create a lot of water in the cabin bilge. I noticed in coldest weather when stove is hottest, a fair few litres a week that I was pumping out with oil extractor. This water wasn't there when we go away or in summer.

We also had water seeping in thru bow bilge partition when it gets too high.

I have now fitted bilge pumps in all parts, not automatic ones, but at least its easy to remove now

I wud say one is better off trying to control the flow of water than prevent it altogether

[Fire insurance]

Thanks Alan de Enfield, I rang gfw up and they needed a survey so will try the other one. 

Thanks nbfirespite the boat is actually 42 years old, I just said 30 as most places specify over 30 years, thanks anyway though. 

[Fire insurance]

Does anyone know what companies will insure for fire for a boat that's over 30 years old without having a survey done? Many thanks.

[Removing cassette under kitchen sink]

Thank you.

 

Can't see that there's a problem then.

 

I just won't store food under the sink

[Removing cassette under kitchen sink]

Hi all

 

We were planning on moving our kitchen but leaving the bathroom where it is. That would mean the hatch for removing the cassette for emptying would be located in the cupboard under the kitchen sink.

 

I just wanted to check that this is ok as far as BSS is concerned. I understand that it could be seen as a hygiene risk, but I'm sure a lot of boaters carry their cassettes through the kitchen each time they empty anyway, which is what we'd have to do if we reverse the layout of the bathroom.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Charlie

 

 

[Bilge and drain channel questions!]

Your engine bilge should normally be kept separate from your cabin bilge. Do not drill holes to connect them if that is what you are asking.

 

That's exactly what I'm asking, thanks!

 

P.s. sorry if this was in wrong forum!

[Bilge and drain channel questions!]

Hi Everyone,

 

After a long, condensation abundant winter, we have decided to look under the floor boards, only to find a large puddle of water that has accumulated at the back of the cabin underneath the kitchen, hence not getting to the bilge.

 

On closer inspection, and plenty of rust scraping, we discovered that the drain channel has holes all the way down except for where the cabin ends, where it appears there were never any put there - not just clogged with rust. The bilge channels in the stern all have holes.

 

Should there be holes there? If so can we drill some? I might be missing something, but I thought that any water from the whole boat should lead to the bilge, not just accumulate in the cabin.

 

Thanks for any help!

[Can we paint our (metal) kitchen sink?]

Sounds as if it may be best left as it is, or replaced. Could look aweful with chipped paint . Thanks for your help.

[Can we paint our (metal) kitchen sink?]

What about paintable bath (fake) enamel?

 

Good idea! Will look out for some.

[Can we paint our (metal) kitchen sink?]

Just that really. Our little metal sink is pretty ideal, but it looks just what it is. Is there any type of gloss paint we can use that will not chip etc and make it look nice?

 

Thanks for any advice!

[What paint to use for metal near woodburner?]

Hi all,

 

Around our fireplace we have thin metal panels attached to the wall, naturally to protect the wood from the heat of the fire. Trouble is they are metal (grey) colour and look pretty plain. We were thinking of replacing these with tiles, but seeing as the metal could look quite nice with the right paint, we we're thinking that should suffice, so long as the paint can resist the heat of the stove.

 

Any ideas on what paint we can use? Bare in mind that at some points the metal is only a few inches away from the stove. We would like to paint it a cream gloss, the question is, does colour make a difference to heat resistance? and also can you get high temp gloss paint?

 

Thanks for any help!

[Is it normal to have a damp hull in the winter months?]

Hyperthetically, if a boat were to get condensation on the base plate every year, and every year it produced 1mm of flaked rust, that would equate to a thinning of approximately 0.1mm of steel every year. Therefore it would take 50 years for the condensation to eat through the (probably) 5mm steel of our springer's base plate.

[Is it normal to have a damp hull in the winter months?]

I can only assume this is a consequence of being on board, and having the boat well heated ?

 

 

That's definetely it for us, this winter was so cold we had our little woodburner on constantly. There are places where the warm air can probably reach the hull, all be it only a few small places, but that it seems is all it took to soak the whole thing. If it's 25 degrees inside the boat and -10 outside, what can you do?

 

 

I blame boatbuilders in general because I've always believed steel should be protected inside and outside. That means painted bilges and all internal base plates.

 

This was my thought too. It's probably overlooked in the beginning because of the extra cost.

[Is it normal to have a damp hull in the winter months?]

Well that definetely puts my mind at rest, for now. Thanks

[Is it normal to have a damp hull in the winter months?]

Hi all

 

I examined the hull in a few places in the summer by lifting floorboards - bone dry, healthy looking metal. Done it again recently, everywhere I look is damp/wet, some rust flakes.

 

Presumably, if it is like this every winter, the hull will eventually thin until leaks appear? I presume this dampness is due to consensation? Our insulation is good in general, but there are gaps here and there like holes in the floor boards under sink, bed etc for access.

 

Is this something to be worried about? I understand it is possible to treat the metal with vactan and other various products, but that would involve taking practically everything out of the boat, including fixed furniture, dividing walls etc. Also, that would have to be a job for the spring/summer for the paint to dry right?

 

Our hull still seems very solid everywhere I have looked, and it has lasted over 20 years. I just wondered how much of an issue this is so I can take necessary action. Surely other boats have the same problem?

 

Thanks

[Committed to BMC]

Surely with so many BMCs of both 1.5 and 1.8 types around it cannot be long before an enterprising engineer will start to make bits for them. It would be a shame for such an iconic canal engine to be replaced by japanese motors.

 

Agreed, perhaps Evo is on the brink of a new business venture?

 

Good luck, would love to know how you get on!

[How do we insulate these bits?]

brilliant, thanks for all your help

[How do we insulate these bits?]

Perfect, thanks a lot. Is it the slab insulation sheets you've used there? I presume they bend nicely around the curves and stay in place if slightly oversized as you mentioned?

[How do we insulate these bits?]

Your setup looks very similar to what I did. You don't have welded tags to fix battens to, but you'd probably be fine using gripfix type adhesive. Make sure you put a vapour barrier between the insulation and the panel.

 

That looks awesome, nice job! Will definetely take ideas from that.

 

Can I just ask about the vapour barrier? Does there need to be a gap between the metal and the insulating material, hence should the insulating material be stuck to the back of the wood?

[How do we insulate these bits?]

well spotted

[How do we insulate these bits?]

 

As you can see we have fixed our double bed in the extended bow of the boat. These are the last, and curviest parts to insulate and I just can't figure the best way to do so. It would be nice to keep as much as the space as possible for bedside shelves etc.

 

Underneath is bed slats is also metal, and we have given it a couple of coats of thermilate which has helped with the condensation, yet not cured it.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

[SMD 12v bus bulbs.]

Ah, didn't notice that. Thanks

[SMD 12v bus bulbs.]

Thanks frangar, looks better and brighter.

 

Found these which look very good, although is the bulb to big to fit the light fittings? Also now we're talking over £100.

 

My link

[SMD 12v bus bulbs.]

Ah I see. Might be worth getting one and trying it out to see if it will do the job. Thanks for the reference!