[Smelly toilet waste pipes/hoses]

Yes, the first thing to check is the colour of the hose.

If it is green in colour then this is not suitable for toilets and is permeable.

If the hose is white in colour this should be proper sanitaion hose it will be marked on the side as such and should OK

If the green hose has been used then change it and the small will go.

 

J

 

Thanks, the hose is white and is the correct type for sanitation - although, I believe that there are several 'grades' available? Lee Sanitation sell at least 3 types.

[Smelly toilet waste pipes/hoses]

I have a Tecma macerator toilet that pumps into a large holding tank via a flexible pipe/hose that runs from the toilet, through the galley ( inside and at the back of the fitted kitchen units ) then into the holding tank which is under a raised Pullman style eating area. Total hose run is probably around 15 feet.

 

As a system, the toilet works very well and I am well pleased with it ( apart from the cost of pumpout at some places !! ).

 

The boat is just over 4 years old and there is a ‘smell’ in the galley area that I don’t quite know how to describe but it is not pleasant. It is especially strong when opening the fridge which is built into the kitchen units, within which the waste hose from the toilet runs.

 

When collecting the boat before Xmas, the broker pointed out the smell and suggested that the hose was the probable cause of the smell and needed replacing. He suggested that when replacing, it would be worth thinking about using solid plastic pipe as against the flexible hose type. The broker is also a boater and has lived aboard for many years so is not without a great deal of experience.

 

A few days ago while looking around the Lee Sanitation web site I noticed a recommendation to change toilet waste hose around every five years.

 

Has anyone come across ‘smelly hoses’ before? Any advice please?

 

Thanks

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

I went up to the boat last Saturday to investigate the problem further. A R Peachment advised me to check a timer controlled relay on the back of the control panel that operates the stop solenoid.

Got to the boat, removed the panel and checked all of the connections, they all looked OK. Started and stopped the engine with the ignition key, no problems. Can only assume that there was a bad connection and my fiddling with the connections has (temporarily) fixed the problem. My guess is that it will come back just when I least expect it!!

The engine turned out to be a 4.195 model, not 4.2 as the boat documentation suggested. The electrics and control panel are slightly different ( the 4.195 is newer ).

I intend to go over all of the engine wiring when the weather warms up a bit.

 

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.

 

Regards

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

Thanks again to all, I contacted Peachment this morning and they were very helpful. They suggested that I check a timer relay behind the control panel. I will give this a go at the weekend.

Cheers

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

Hi,

 

Unfortunately, I don't have any wiring diagrams for the engine and will not be back on the boat until the weekend. I have only owned the boat for two weeks, but all was working OK until the middle of last week.

I have emailed Nannidiesel in France for advice and wiring diagrams, so far, no response from them.

I will take a good look at the wiring at the weekend to see if I can spot anything obviouse like loose or damaged wiring.

I think the alternator is a 90 Amp Bosch part.

The batteries still apear to be charging OK, would this be the case if a diode within the alternator had died?

 

Cheers

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

Thanks, I think the next step will be a call to Nannidiesel. The ignition switch and associated electrics is also manufactured by Nanni.

 

Cheers

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

All was working OK until the middle of last week.

 

The ignition key has an OFF position, an ON position, a HEATER position and a STARTER position.

Normal operation is to turn the key to heater for 10 seconds or so then to starter. Once started, releasing the key returns it to the on position, it is all very much the same as a car ignition switch.The engine stops when the key is switched back to the off position ( or at least, it used to !! ).

There is a solenoid operated leaver that can be operated manually to stop the engine ( as you described ).

The first time that the engine would not stop ( mid last week ), and before I found the solenoid operated leaver, I turned off both battery isolation switched in an attempt to stop the engine – this had no effect but I guess the alternator would have been running without battery for a couple of seconds.

 

Everything else works OK, alternator is still charging, 240 volt Electrolux is working etc. Although, when it is in it’s fault mode, there is no charging or 240V. When it is in it’s fault mode, it is almost as if the battery is disconnected ??

 

Cheers

Ernie

[Nannidiesel engine will not stop!!]

Hello,

 

I have a Nannidiesel 4.2 engine with 570 hours on it ( it is just over 3 years old ).

The engine starts and runs well.

When stopping the engine by turning the ignition key to the off position, the engine briefly appears to stop then continues running. When running in this mode, all of the lights on the control panel are off. The tacho and it’s backlight are also off. Turning the ignition key to any position has no effect and none of the lights come back on. The only way I can stop the engine is by operating the manual stop leaver on the engine. The only way I can get the control panel to work again so that the engine can be re-started is to turn off the starter battery supply and to turn it back on again ( via the battery isolation switch ).

 

Has any one seen this before? Does any one know of a fix?

 

Thanks in advance

Ernie

[Alde gas boiler problem]

This is fairly common on the Alde boilers, they do tend to sound as though they are exploding when they light up.

 

There is a bit of adjustment on the modulating screw which can affect the amouint of 'whoomph'.

 

If you go to the alde website, you can download the installation and maintenance manuals. which are indispensible when fiddling with the Alde. It also gives clear instructions on how to remove the burner unit if you want to return it to Alde for repair and or service.

 

Many thanks, I will download the manuals and will try the adjustment you mention.

 

Cheers

Ernie

 

This is fairly common on the Alde boilers, they do tend to sound as though they are exploding when they light up.

 

There is a bit of adjustment on the modulating screw which can affect the amouint of 'whoomph'.

 

If you go to the alde website, you can download the installation and maintenance manuals. which are indispensible when fiddling with the Alde. It also gives clear instructions on how to remove the burner unit if you want to return it to Alde for repair and or service.

 

Many thanks, I will download the manuals and will try the adjustment you mention.

 

Cheers

Ernie

[Alde gas boiler problem]

I have just spent a very pleasant Christmas week onboard my new boat ( 3 years old, but new to me ).

The Alde gas central heating system worked a treat, the only problem being that when it fires, it makes a fairly loud ‘boom’ sound – OK during the day, but not so good at night as the boiler is next to the sleeping area!!

 

Has anyone come across this problem with an Alde gas boiler before, if so, any advice on a cure?

 

Many thanks in advance – Ernie