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homer2911

New Canaline engine problems

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My 1991 build 40HP Lister LPWS4 engine has just been replaced by a new Canaline 42.  There are two issues - I am told by the installer that, although the new engine will rev away quite happily on no load, when in gear it will not go above 1800 rpm, because the drive is over-propped.  A bit puzzled, since the old engine with the same prop would happily rev way above 2000 rpm.  Secondly, the accelerator cable is 'creeping back', which is said to be due to wear in my Morse control - the new engine requires the cable to pull instead of push to increase revs. Does this sound right?

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6 minutes ago, homer2911 said:

My 1991 build 40HP Lister LPWS4 engine has just been replaced by a new Canaline 42.  There are two issues - I am told by the installer that, although the new engine will rev away quite happily on no load, when in gear it will not go above 1800 rpm, because the drive is over-propped.  A bit puzzled, since the old engine with the same prop would happily rev way above 2000 rpm.  

 

So the prop may have been correct for the previous engine but it's over-propped relative to the new one? You've changed one variable, so you can't expect everything else to remain equal.

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12 minutes ago, homer2911 said:

My 1991 build 40HP Lister LPWS4 engine has just been replaced by a new Canaline 42.  There are two issues - I am told by the installer that, although the new engine will rev away quite happily on no load, when in gear it will not go above 1800 rpm, because the drive is over-propped.  A bit puzzled, since the old engine with the same prop would happily rev way above 2000 rpm.  Secondly, the accelerator cable is 'creeping back', which is said to be due to wear in my Morse control - the new engine requires the cable to pull instead of push to increase revs. Does this sound right?

Morse controls have an adjustable friction screw.     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHZKjTVRr_U

The Morse control has the facitity to swap the cable to either push or pull .

 

Edited by Flyboy

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What is the new engine supposed to rev to (maximum)? What does it rev to out of gear? What gearbox and reduction ratio do you have? What are the prop dimensions (diameter and pitch)? The waterline length of your boat would also be useful in any calculation.

 

https://www.vicprop.com/displacement_size.php

Edited by blackrose

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Is the new engine and gearbox

 

1) Similar maximum horsepower

2) Similar maximum operating RPM

3) Same reduction ratio on the gearbox.

 

Unless the answers to every one of these is "yes", a prop that was well matched to the old engine and gearbox could well be a poor match to the new engine and gearbox.

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59 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Morse controls have an adjustable friction screw.     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHZKjTVRr_U

The Morse control has the facitity to swap the cable to either push or pull .

 

Not all true Morse controls have adjustable friction and I am not even sure that video is for a true Morse control. Morse has become a bit li9ke Hoover for vacuum cleaner, whoever made it.

 

 

Is there a return spring on the pump lever you can remove?  If not an extra spring trying to pull the lever towards fast may help.

 

As others have said the engine, gearbox, any reduction ratio and the prop have to be more or less matched otherwise the engine will either rev like the blazes but you only go slowly of it just refuses to rev in gear. Best make sure nothing is around the prop and the shaft is not so far out of alignment its binding in the bearings & gland

 

 

Another thought. If the above are all OK then it could be a lack of fuel issue. It takes far less fuel to rev in neutral than it does in gear.

Edited by Tony Brooks

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If you find it is over-propped according to the prop size calculator I posted the link to, then you may be able to get it reduced in diameter and/or re-pitched. Pitch reduction is generally the way unless the diameter is significantly excessive, but you don't want to reduce the pitch and make the prop too "flat".

 

The calculator is just a guide. If it tells you that a smaller diameter or reduced pitch is required then you need to talk to experts like Crowthers or Noris for their views. The prop adjustment itself isn't that expensive. I had mine done for £150. The expensive bit it's getting the prop off and back on again afterwards unless it can be done with the boat in the water 

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Not to me.  We have had canaline 42 for 8 years and it goes like it should and can do 2500 no probs on rivers.  Brilliant engine, no issues.

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Providing the gearbox-reduction box ratios are the same as the old Lister set up. I'd say as Tony Brooks mentioned, bad engine alignment causing pressure on the shaft and binding resistance,  or throttle cable out of adjustment and not giving enough or full throttle at the injector pump.

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16 minutes ago, NB Lola said:

Not to me.  We have had canaline 42 for 8 years and it goes like it should and can do 2500 no probs on rivers.  Brilliant engine, no issues.

Happy New Year and welcome back! ?

  • Happy 1

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