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Mike Adams

removing the J2

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Having fitted a new engine attached to the hydraulic drive in the forward locker I now need remove the Kelvin. The question is - How easy is it to dismantle in situ? If I can reduce to to just the crankcase I think I can get everything out via the side door using my engine crane, the crankcase being the largest part. It is in need of an overhaul anyway. Any special tools needed or likely problem areas? I plan to remove the flywheel,gearbox, fuel pump governor and geartrain etc and then drop the pistons, remove the heads and then the cylinders leaving the crank in the crackcase. I have the Kelvin instructions for operation but the could be clearer!

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Fairly easy.  Just undo every fastener  in sight till the bit you want falls off?  You need some patience and the right spanners to get the cylinders off as the fwd and aft nuts are difficult to get at. A crow's foot spanner on a long extension down the cylinder is the official way, but a socket on a uj and a short extension and another uj in from the sides works eventually.  A short OE spanner is good for nut running. The studs should have locknuts! 

 

A long breaker bar is handy if it will fit and is essential for the Y bolts.

 

Start with the flywheel and pan then from the top, work down, remembering the smaller head stud UNDER the heads. Take the pistons out through the side doors so as to get max room for the assault on the cylinder nuts.

A slide hammer screwed into the drain valve hole will shift recalcitrant injectors. 

 

Take the oil pump and gallery out before the camshaft if removing that. Don' t lose the woodruff keys from the cam followers. 

 

The gears, front oil seal and housing are simple, but do remove the internal oil pipe so it doesn't get damaged.  Check the gears have meshing marks and add them if not. Then the back half of the timing case.  Take the gear box off next.  Again, start at the top lid, then the starting chain and shaft, then the top casing; reverse chain; bottom casing  reverse clutch and shaft all in one.  Ahead clutch ( drive one key either side forwards and pull off, praying the lead key stops were fitted.); ahead  thrust bearing and housing then tackle the crank last.  It is easiest to stand the engine on the gearbox end on suitable blocks, support the weight of the crank then remove the main bearing housings and Y bolts completely.  After that the crank can be lifted out upwards.

  It can be done horizontal, but there is much more risk of damaging the bearings so you need to protect the big ends by taping on card strips before lowering the crank using the Y bolts, then remove the main housings and protect the main bearings before you wriggle it out forwards, avoiding bashing it on things and rotating as needed.   Easier if there are at least two of you.

 

Crankcase and crank together are heavy (More than a 1 man lift ) and awkward but if your crane is up to it they should be OK as one bit.

 

Granville No1 is the dogs bits for getting your hands cleaner afterwards.  Much better than Swarfega and doesn't take all the oils out of your skin cos it is citrus based.

N

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Thanks BEngo. I am planning to tackle it next week. Your instuctions are very helpful. I will report back on progress. I always use disposible gloves now when working on anything mechanical and although they are a pain they usually last between tea breaks and are quicker to change them than washing all the time.

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You'll need a good set of IMPERIAL sockets and probably some ring spanners as well - assuming the engine is not scrap. Nobody wants round nuts (....)

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Not just Imperial but BSF or Whitworth.  And a set of Scottish shifting spannerrrs.

 

Tea breaks?  Tea breaks? It is a Kelvin.  You should take proper British Spirits as a refreshment.  Dougie would tell you.

N

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