Copper piping turned silver

[Alan de Enfield]

24 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Personally I would avoid over complications and that module requires a separate alarm.

 

If the batteries are in boxes with lids my inclination would be to try to get two half shell engine room vents (like half the things you use to see on ships decks). The drill the deck next to the wheelhouse upstand and screw the vents to the upstand. Run (say) 2 or 3" flexible hose into the top of the battery boxes. The heat from a faiuling batetry or even batteries on chaarge shoudl ensure natural ventilation by convection.

 

Like this - https://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/fenster-bullauge-luke-und-luefter/windhutze-und-luefter/windhutzen/lueftungshauben-halbe-windhutzen-davey for example.

 

If you fitted two each side one each side could have hoses run low down in the engine room to further enhance ventilation or to have blowers installed in them.

Ours swivels so it can always be facing down wind to create a "draw", and when underway turn it away from any rain.

 

You can see it on the Port side, just forward of the TV aerial.

 

 

 

[mark99]

If you for blower best to get an atex rated one. Intrinsically safe, explosion proof that is.

Edited January 4, 2019 by mark99

[bigcol]

On 02/01/2019 at 06:44, Boater Sam said:

I would suggest to you that your battery ventilation TO THE OUTSIDE leaves a lot to be desired. In a good well ventilated installation the H2S  would of vented out, hence there are not lines of dead boaters  on the towpath.

Boiling batteries is well known and occurs more often than you would think.

I have had this problem when one battery in a bank of 4 ( Elecssols, spit ) in parallel went short and cooked the whole bank to destruction We noticed the heat, and dropping power not the smell as they were properly housed in a ventilated space not in the cabin.

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

[bigcol]

Asabove please see photos of vents that feed the engine room, 3 x port 3 x starboard.

 

also  please see diagram of the cabling that is I battery box x 4 battery’s.

 

also been told that the gasses would have escaped through the vents, it would have been a lot worse if no vents at all.

 

but I will get a fan and a alarm fitted down there in future.

ive been asked for the diagram but batterymegastore don’t know why but obviously to get out of replacing or inspecting the battery’s.

 

col

[bizzard]

4 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

You've discovered a new revolutionary chrome plating process Col . You could try scrubbing the silver bits with soapy water, not washing up liquid but soap. Can also be used for neutralizing excess solder flux.

[bigcol]

On 02/01/2019 at 06:44, Boater Sam said:

I would suggest to you that your battery ventilation TO THE OUTSIDE leaves a lot to be desired. In a good well ventilated installation the H2S  would of vented out, hence there are not lines of dead boaters  on the towpath.

Boiling batteries is well known and occurs more often than you would think.

I have had this problem when one battery in a bank of 4 ( Elecssols, spit ) in parallel went short and cooked the whole bank to destruction We noticed the heat, and dropping power not the smell as they were properly housed in a ventilated space not in the cabin.

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

I’ve just noticed the battery monitors showing 29v

ive changed over the low battery for the 13v 

this is with 2 battery’s only?

[bigcol]

On 02/01/2019 at 06:44, Boater Sam said:

I would suggest to you that your battery ventilation TO THE OUTSIDE leaves a lot to be desired. In a good well ventilated installation the H2S  would of vented out, hence there are not lines of dead boaters  on the towpath.

Boiling batteries is well known and occurs more often than you would think.

I have had this problem when one battery in a bank of 4 ( Elecssols, spit ) in parallel went short and cooked the whole bank to destruction We noticed the heat, and dropping power not the smell as they were properly housed in a ventilated space not in the cabin.

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

On 02/01/2019 at 06:44, Boater Sam said:

I would suggest to you that your battery ventilation TO THE OUTSIDE leaves a lot to be desired. In a good well ventilated installation the H2S  would of vented out, hence there are not lines of dead boaters  on the towpath.

Boiling batteries is well known and occurs more often than you would think.

I have had this problem when one battery in a bank of 4 ( Elecssols, spit ) in parallel went short and cooked the whole bank to destruction We noticed the heat, and dropping power not the smell as they were properly housed in a ventilated space not in the cabin.

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

The battery monitor showed 29v!, for no reason gone down to 27.7

 

rhis is with two battery’s that seemed okay.

 

col

[Alan de Enfield]

5 minutes ago, bigcol said:

 

I’ve just noticed the battery monitors showing 29v

I'd suggest then you monitor this carefully and be ready to switch off the charger if increase much further.

 

29v on a 24v system is the 'same;' as 14.5v on a 12v system and is the sort of voltage that we expect near the tail end of charging - particularly at low current levels.

 

Is the gauge showing 0.2 amps ?

 

If so, then the batteries can be considered to be fully charged.

[Boater Sam]

Could be the Sun newspaper causing problems, do you get a burning smell when you read it?

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, Boater Sam said:

Could be the Sun newspaper causing problems, do you get a burning smell when you read it?

Only page 3.

[bigcol]

On 02/01/2019 at 06:44, Boater Sam said:

I would suggest to you that your battery ventilation TO THE OUTSIDE leaves a lot to be desired. In a good well ventilated installation the H2S  would of vented out, hence there are not lines of dead boaters  on the towpath.

Boiling batteries is well known and occurs more often than you would think.

I have had this problem when one battery in a bank of 4 ( Elecssols, spit ) in parallel went short and cooked the whole bank to destruction We noticed the heat, and dropping power not the smell as they were properly housed in a ventilated space not in the cabin.

Hi  sam

 

the stange thing is I would have thought there was plenty of ventilation, I would have thought the battery break down happened very quickly in a 4 -6 hours of so.

the wheel house being above the engine room, this is where we smelt it very bad, which of course what alerted us that somthing wasn’t right.

at the time didn’t know what would cause the copper pipe to go silve, this forum helped me through that, also checking the battery’s.etc.

 

the battery’s are in their own battery box.

what I will do is put a alarm down their

i don’t know how much ventilation is right, but yes I am taking this seriously and just freaked out what has happened

 

col

[Boater Sam]

Looking at the diagram of your battery connections, are they really connected like that? 48v electrics? I thought it was 24v.

2 in series, + to -  twice is fine, but the pairs must connect + to + and - to - surely.

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

Looking at the diagram of your battery connections, are they really connected like that? 48v electrics? I thought it was 24v.

2 in series, + to -  twice is fine, but the pairs must connect + to + and - to - surely.

But they’re not wired as 48V in Col’s sketch. They’re wired as 24V. 

 

It’s made more confusing with two separate take-offs, one for the dis panel and one for the inverter (which is also bad practice), but nevertheless still wired as 24V 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2019 by WotEver
Added a bit

[bigcol]

Replies from battery megastore answer back to the high battery figures on monitor

Well you raise a very good point, if all the wiring is perfect we move onto the next area which is charging. If your strange battery voltages are not caused by wiring then the next place to look is 1. How hey are being charged 2. Charging regime 

 

Basically you can have the correct kit and wired without fault but if the settings are wrong or the charger never gets to run for long enough or an equalisation charge is never taking place to counter PSOC (partial  state of charge) then you will win yourself problems.

 

I will break this into 12v batteries so its easier to follow , simply double the numbers for a 24v system. Its always a good idea to take the readings off the individual battery terminals even with your 24v system as they will be more accurate and its easier to spot a fault.

 

14.4 to 14.8 max charge voltage  

13.25 batteries will be fully charged and knock the charger off

12.70 batteries are fully charged resting voltage 24hours after charge. 

12.10 batteries are DOD (depth of discharge) 50% and need to be recharged, don’t go below. 

Ok thanks, basically all batteries should have the same voltage in a bank if they are wired up correctly. If you get a failure they will charge up to the correct voltage (13.25v) then the one that is faulty will loose capacity very quickly. 

 

Below is a table from our FAQs at the bottom of our website, you can see form this that your 11.6 and your 14.7v readings give cause for concern at both ends of the spectrum, they don’t point to battery failure but to something else within the system as batteries should not go over 13.25v and should only be discharged to 50% 12.10. 

 

From your photos I can see some small cables do you know what these are connected to? Sometimes its a bilge pump or even solar panels Well you raise a very good point, if all the wiring is perfect we move onto the next area which is charging. If your strange battery voltages are not caused by wiring then the next place to look is 1. How hey are being charged 2. Charging regime 

 

Basically you can have the correct kit and wired without fault but if the settings are wrong or the charger never gets to run for long enough or an equalisation charge is never taking place to counter PSOC (partial  state of charge) then you will win yourself problems.

 

I will break this into 12v batteries so its easier to follow , simply double the numbers for a 24v system. Its always a good idea to take the readings off the individual battery terminals even with your 24v system as they will be more accurate and its easier to spot a fault.

 

14.4 to 14.8 max charge voltage  

13.25 batteries will be fully charged and knock the charger off

12.70 batteries are fully charged resting voltage 24hours after charge. 

12.10 batteries are DOD (depth of discharge) 50% and need to be recharged, don’t go below. 

 

So you can see the 14.7 and the 11.06 are very wrong.

 

Depending on the settings your system may charge at a slightly higher voltage than 14.4 (28.8v) but only for a brief time and for  equalisation, this will be down to the victron settings. 

 

please can you tell me if your pump and you heater are 12v or 24v if you know?

 

Have you checked to see if the two batteries wired in are warm? 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 13:11, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Question 

I have a battery monitor that with the two battery’s only connected as 24v. 

The monitors showing 29.1 v
<image1.jpeg>

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 12:33, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Ok thanks, basically all batteries should have the same voltage in a bank if they are wired up correctly. If you get a failure they will charge up to the correct voltage (13.25v) then the one that is faulty will loose capacity very quickly. 

 

Below is a table from our FAQs at the bottom of our website, you can see form this that your 11.6 and your 14.7v readings give cause for concern at both ends of the spectrum, they don’t point to battery failure but to something else within the system as batteries should not go over 13.25v and should only be discharged to 50% 12.10. 

 

From your photos I can see some small cables do you know what these are connected to? Sometimes its a bilge pump or even solar panels 

 

 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 12:15, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

 Hi Gile

 

1 and 3

 

Col
 

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 11:50, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Thanks for that, can you tell me which 2 batteries had which voltage if they are numbered left to right 1-4 please 
 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 11:08, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Hiya Giles

 

Here is diagram of battery connections 
<image1.jpeg>

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 06:54, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Colin

It’s a good idea when there has been an issue for us to just double check a few things so you don’t have anymore problems forward. I can see from the pictures the instillation is of a high quality which is good to see.

Kind Regards,

Giles 
Battery Megastore UK LTD.
 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:46, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Okay will sort somthing tomorrow

 

Col

 

Sent from my iPad

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:26, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Colin

 

Over heating and a  smell of eggs is clear indication of sulphation. If we don’t get to the bottom of what is happening with your system it will continue to happen, you will continue to trash batteries and have terrible performance and reliability.

 

We can also see from the voltages the batteries aren’t at faulty so we really could do with the diagram of how the batteries were linked up to help you correct the issue. You don't need to call the engineer unless you want to,  you can do it yourself it only needs to take 5 mins and be very basic, I will ask for any additional info if I need it.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:14, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Giles

 

Yes very strong smell of eggs, the hs2 turned all copper piping silver.

I don’t mean to be awkward, but I have had engineers take the 2 culprit battery’s out, and it will be difficult to get them both inside just to show you how it was wired up.

But if your saying it’s important then I will get the engineers back

 

Many thanks

 

Col

 

Sent from my iPad

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:07, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Colin

 

I am just having a look at this for George, I can see from the pictures the batteries are now particle disconnected can you please send me a sketch of how the batteries were connect. I need to see all the cables that were connected to the batteries and all the cables that link the batteries please. 

 

Also was there a smell of eggs? 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

Well you raise a very good point, if all the wiring is perfect we move onto the next area which is charging. If your strange battery voltages are not caused by wiring then the next place to look is 1. How hey are being charged 2. Charging regime 

 

Basically you can have the correct kit and wired without fault but if the settings are wrong or the charger never gets to run for long enough or an equalisation charge is never taking place to counter PSOC (partial  state of charge) then you will win yourself problems.

 

I will break this into 12v batteries so its easier to follow , simply double the numbers for a 24v system. Its always a good idea to take the readings off the individual battery terminals even with your 24v system as they will be more accurate and its easier to spot a fault.

 

14.4 to 14.8 max charge voltage  

13.25 batteries will be fully charged and knock the charger off

12.70 batteries are fully charged resting voltage 24hours after charge. 

12.10 batteries are DOD (depth of discharge) 50% and need to be recharged, don’t go below. 

 

So you can see the 14.7 and the 11.06 are very wrong.

 

Depending on the settings your system may charge at a slightly higher voltage than 14.4 (28.8v) but only for a brief time and for  equalisation, this will be down to the victron settings. 

 

please can you tell me if your pump and you heater are 12v or 24v if you know?

 

Have you checked to see if the two batteries wired in are warm? 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 13:11, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Question 

I have a battery monitor that with the two battery’s only connected as 24v. 

The monitors showing 29.1 v
<image1.jpeg>

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 12:33, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Ok thanks, basically all batteries should have the same voltage in a bank if they are wired up correctly. If you get a failure they will charge up to the correct voltage (13.25v) then the one that is faulty will loose capacity very quickly. 

 

Below is a table from our FAQs at the bottom of our website, you can see form this that your 11.6 and your 14.7v readings give cause for concern at both ends of the spectrum, they don’t point to battery failure but to something else within the system as batteries should not go over 13.25v and should only be discharged to 50% 12.10. 

 

From your photos I can see some small cables do you know what these are connected to? Sometimes its a bilge pump or even solar panels 

 

 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 12:15, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

 Hi Gile

 

1 and 3

 

Col
 

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 11:50, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Thanks for that, can you tell me which 2 batteries had which voltage if they are numbered left to right 1-4 please 
 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

On 4 Jan 2019, at 11:08, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Hiya Giles

 

Here is diagram of battery connections 
<image1.jpeg>

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jan 2019, at 06:54, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

Colin

It’s a good idea when there has been an issue for us to just double check a few things so you don’t have anymore problems forward. I can see from the pictures the instillation is of a high quality which is good to see.

Kind Regards,

Giles 
Battery Megastore UK LTD.
 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:46, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Okay will sort somthing tomorrow

 

Col

 

Sent from my iPad

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:26, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Colin

 

Over heating and a  smell of eggs is clear indication of sulphation. If we don’t get to the bottom of what is happening with your system it will continue to happen, you will continue to trash batteries and have terrible performance and reliability.

 

We can also see from the voltages the batteries aren’t at faulty so we really could do with the diagram of how the batteries were linked up to help you correct the issue. You don't need to call the engineer unless you want to,  you can do it yourself it only needs to take 5 mins and be very basic, I will ask for any additional info if I need it.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:14, colin sharon <colin-sharon@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Giles

 

Yes very strong smell of eggs, the hs2 turned all copper piping silver.

I don’t mean to be awkward, but I have had engineers take the 2 culprit battery’s out, and it will be difficult to get them both inside just to show you how it was wired up.

But if your saying it’s important then I will get the engineers back

 

Many thanks

 

Col

 

Sent from my iPad

 

On 3 Jan 2019, at 15:07, Giles <gilesbriggs@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi Colin

 

I am just having a look at this for George, I can see from the pictures the batteries are now particle disconnected can you please send me a sketch of how the batteries were connect. I need to see all the cables that were connected to the batteries and all the cables that link the batteries please. 

 

Also was there a smell of eggs? 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Giles 

Battery Megastore UK LTD.

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

How very odd, even once we ignore the formatting. For myself I think its more likely there are faulty batteries rather than overcharging and it seem others here have similar thoughts yet the suppliers seem to be saying the batteries are not at fault.

 

They also persist in talking about figures for 12V systems when Col has a 24 volt system. That does nothing to make it easy for the  customer. They also seem to keep repeating themselves as if its a script. I am not even sure they are correct about what happens to the voltages with a faulty battery. Surely Any  batteries connected in parallel (as Col's 24 volt pairs are) will try to charge the faulty battery that will have a lower voltage. This will ensure given time all the batteries will be in the same state of charge and there for have similar volatiles but more usually, unless the internal short is very bad, that takes time so the good batteries usually display a higher voltage.

 

Just maybe this says more about the battery supplier's customer service and products  than anything else.

[jonesthenuke]

They seem to be treating this as if its a 12V system. In your case if a cell fails to a short you will get one battery with a higher than normal voltage and the other will go low, which is what I understand you had.  Presumably you now have no problems following removal of the defective battery, so you have evidence that the charger is OK?

 

[bigcol]

Have I just found the problem

 

i have a 12 volt feed as well, must have as I have 12v lights etc not many but 12 volt, I also have a 12volt plug outlet.

 

now i temember the 12 volt lcd did go down to 11.8

since changing the battery’s over it went up to 13v, I have a fane on over night and the lcd has gone down to 11.7

see photo 1.

 

a post last year I asked what this is and Chewbacker gave me a link on google

 

its a Varner something 

http://www.vanner.com/brochures/Battery-Equalizer-PB-6-01.pdf

 

this is brand new and not used or installed

 

is this somthing that should be fitted

 

[WotEver]

As I pointed out back in post #79, the charging voltage of 28.2V across the pair of batteries in series was fine. The fact that one battery was at 11V and the other at 17V demonstrates as clearly as anything could that the low voltage battery has an internal short. They’re in series. The only way they can differ as they did is if one is faulty. Everything the supplier has written is waffle - it reads as if they have absolutely no understanding of the issue. 

[bigcol]

I have a 12v radio, 2 bed side lights one cooling fan and the 12v dc out let supply these are 12 volt

these must be wired up somehow??

maybe to the battery that caused all the problem?

the whole boat runs on 24volt but wanted a 12v outlet and supply if needed which I use as above 4 things

 

col

Edited January 5, 2019 by bigcol

[WotEver]

31 minutes ago, bigcol said:

I have a 12v radio, 2 bed side lights one cooling fan and the 12v dc out let supply these are 12 volt

these must be wired up somehow??

maybe to the battery that caused all the problem?

the whole boat runs on 24volt but wanted a 12v outlet and supply if needed

 

col

Eta: You mustn’t do this!  And it’s not shown on your battery connections diagram, or we’d have picked up on it straight away. 

 

You have a Vanner Voltmaster Battery Equaliser whose entire point is to avoid the problem of unbalancing a 24V pair of batteries with a 12V tap. It is NOT shown connected in your drawing of the battery connections though. 

 

So, some ‘ifs’ come into play. IF the Vanner is correctly installed, and IF it’s functioning correctly then the 12V supply won’t be an issue. IF either of those two provisos are false then that could absolutely be the problem.

 

You’d need to check with Vanner (it might be in the user manual) but I suspect for it to work correctly with 4 batteries you’d also need to link the mid-points of the batteries. So you’d have two lots of two 12V batts in parallel, both in series. Taking your earlier drawing that would mean linking batts 2&3 at the top of the drawing. 

 

A simple way to ensure that it’s working correctly would be to have two voltmeters, one from the top 12V pair, and one from the bottom 12V pair. Both voltmeters should read virtually the same at all times, with an absolute maximum of 0.5V difference under a heavy 12V load (according to Vanner’s documentation). 

 

Ahh, I’ve just read that you haven’t installed the Vanner. In that case yes, you’ve killed the battery yourself I’m afraid by taking an unbalanced 12V tap from one of the 24V pairs. The purpose of the Vanner is to prevent that happening. 

Edited January 5, 2019 by WotEver

[WotEver]

27 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Have I just found the problem

In my opinion yes. Fit the Vanner. 

[WotEver]

11 minutes ago, WotEver said:

A simple way to ensure that it’s working correctly would be to have two voltmeters, one from the top 12V pair, and one from the bottom 12V pair. Both voltmeters should read virtually the same at all times, with an absolute maximum of 0.5V difference under a heavy 12V load (according to Vanner’s documentation). 

Reading that data sheet again it appears that the Vanner already incorporates this monitoring in the form of LEDs. 

[bigcol]

Thanks tony and everyone that’s mucked in with advice.

 

i will be fitting the equaliser today

and will try to recharge the 2 battery’s not connected to see if I can get them back up.

if not it’s new battery’s 

 

so it seems ive caused this myself

i will also number battery’s from now on to make diagnosis easier in future.

 

col

 

 

 

[bizzard]

4 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Thanks tony and everyone that’s mucked in with advice.

 

i will be fitting the equaliser today

and will try to recharge the 2 battery’s not connected to see if I can get them back up.

if not it’s new battery’s 

 

so it seems ive caused this myself

i will also number battery’s from now on to make diagnosis easier in future.

 

col

 

 

 

I take you have been using ALL of those 12v appliances recently, ''past few days,?''  If not the batteries would have equalized, I would have thought.

[bigcol]

Hi Bizzard

 

thinking about it radios on most of the day

bed lights on in evening

and fan on all night.

 

then on this particular day, my wife and I had to go to the doctors early morning,  so all was off, accept radio, was away 2 hours, and reentered the boat to this smell.

what flipping gets me is why didn’t I take notice of the lcd indicator on 12v outlet panel.

 

it was oh fcuk it, electrics working nothing to worry about.

been living on this boat for 2 months now.

So installing banner equaliser to 2 battery’s until I get the the other 2 sorted or exchanged replaced

 

col