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Copper piping turned silver


bigcol

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46 minutes ago, WotEver said:

It is, but batt 3 was seriously abused. 

 

Col, do you have access to a 12V charger? If so, stick it across batt 3. You don’t need to disconnect anything, just try to get batt 3 up a bit. 

I borrowed a 12v charger, do you mean just conect the chargers leads, and charge batt 3 whilst still in the bank,with the victron as normal

 

30 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Col, how do you charge your batteries? is it genny or shore supply

 Brian  through Shore power, via victron. Ta 

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15 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

In that case you should be happy to run with just 2 batteries in series, so no rush to replace if one is duff

Yep I was thinking that, dispose of faulty battery, and keeping the other for 12v only, and keep that charged up by a separate charger

and use just for the 12v.

 

but I’ve ordered the 24v to 12v thinymajig and will fit that, and keep the bank as 4 battery’s.

if one battery is faulty,I will replace it.

 

 

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1 hour ago, bigcol said:

I borrowed a 12v charger, do you mean just conect the chargers leads, and charge batt 3 whilst still in the bank,with the victron as normal

Yes. It can do no harm and will bring batt 3 back to life if that’s going to happen. After 24 hours like that remove it, wait an hour, and check the voltages of 3 & 4 again. If there’s still a 2V discrepancy then throw batt 3 away; it’s broken. 

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Okay these readings taken before connecting the charger

the charger has a 12v and 24v setting

leaving it on 12v it was showing 5 amps putting it on 24v it went up to 20amps

i have now gone down and the battery 3 was making bubbling noises, and a warmish egg smell, very faintly

iive now disconected the remote battery charger and left bank as is running with the victron

827C8783-E191-4312-B345-8A52F8A0EBD6.jpeg

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2 hours ago, bigcol said:

leaving it on 12v it was showing 5 amps putting it on 24v it went up to 20amps

Don’t put it on 24V!!!  It’s a 12V battery. That’s why I asked if you had a 12V charger!

5A is plenty. 

 

It’s probably dead now anyway. I’d disconnect both 3 & 4 for now. 

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3 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Shall I just get 2 new battery’s to replace 3 and 4 ?

If you are on a shore-line and not planning on moving anywhere in the near future, I'd suggest just run your system on the remaining '1-pair', see if they hold up without any issues and if everything is still OK in a few weeks get another 'pair' ordered and installed.

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7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

If you are on a shore-line and not planning on moving anywhere in the near future, I'd suggest just run your system on the remaining '1-pair', see if they hold up without any issues and if everything is still OK in a few weeks get another 'pair' ordered and installed.

Agreed. Save your money for now. 

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Okay fellow workmates

 

ive taken battery’s 3 and 4 out the engine bay and just running on the two remaining battery’s.

 

Fitted the 12/24v  transformer thingy as per photo 1, this is now working so there’s no 12v to the main 24v bank.

 

batterys at moment are battery 1,13v. Battery 2,13.2v

and 12v is now on in the boat.

 

ive decided that I’m going to wait as per your suggestion re replacing battery’s 3 an 4

as I need the money to buy a new 18v complete drill, as I dropped my drill 12month old one,in the canal

waved to me as it was sinking, all in slow motion. And yes I total lost it, I acted like a spoilt kit ? 

 

i have a vanner equalizor 12/24 new over £300,  for sale cheap, offers anyone??

see photo

 

ive also added the response from the battery supplier below lol

 

Hi Chris

 
Can you please look after Colin and apply 15% discount to anything he wants. The system was made up of 4x xl130 (2/3 are ok) 
 
It’s an idea to discuss having the battery monitoring on Colin’s phone, there is already a victron unit so adding a BMV smart instead of the current battery monitor might be wise. 
 
 
Kind Regards,
 
Giles 
Battery Megastore UK LTD.

Begin forwarded message:

 

 

8C07709A-103F-4B22-9EA4-04626955F9E9.jpeg

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Okay this morning

bat 1 12.10v

bat 2  13.6v

 

2 baterys out of way

bat 3 12.4v

bat 4  14v

one question tho

batery monitor reading 26.5

but on the 12v side monitor reading 11.6v see photo 1 the little screen on panel

battery photo

1 =24v poss to transformer

2 =to negative transformer

3 = 12v negative for grand use for 12v transformer 4 = nasa monitor 24v

other little red wire you can see from poss batt 2 is the 24v feed to eberspacher94B75191-9648-4524-801D-EE65EEBD4698.jpeg.d9cce09c1ce6699f7cb08f58d1a20d32.jpeg

 

 

7ABAFE8D-6CCA-40A8-B5DE-9B9AA9093862.jpeg

2EF9EFB4-DCB1-45F3-96FB-8920AB89DA99.jpeg

60804591-0B2E-4003-B0E8-39D92FAF3255.jpeg

Edited by bigcol
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13 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Okay this morning

bat 1 12.10v

bat 2  13.6v

 

….but on the 12v side monitor reading 11.6v see photo 1 the little screen on panel

battery photo

Col - summat isn't right -

 

1) you are now showing a 1.5 v difference between a pair of batteries connected together.

2) 11.6v is pretty much 'flat' for a 12v battery.

 

I would respectfully suggest that maybe it is time to 'get someone in' who can work their way thru the systems and identify where these faults are coming from.

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Wire 1 in red is the 24v feed to the transformer

wire 3 is the negative feed to the transformer

wire 2 is the negative for the 12v feed a negative which is what I’m not sure about

 

the transformer has 24v IN poss and neg

it also has 12v OUT 12v  positive going to boat, and I put the grand for that on the earth terminal, which is the only thing I may have mucked up on

 

col

 

Edited by bigcol
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23 minutes ago, bigcol said:

1 =24v poss to transformer

2 =to negative transformer

3 = 12v negative for grand use for 12v transformer 4 = nasa monitor 24v

1 should be where 4 is. 

2 should be where 3 is. 

Nothing, absolutely NOTHING should be connected where 1 & 2 are. 

  • Greenie 1
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11 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

What are thin wires 1 and 2 for?

They should not be there!

I'm not sure that wires 1& 2 (24-12v transformer) are actually doing anything connected like that - they are, in effect both on the same terminal.

 

(Would that explain why the 12v system is at 11.7v ?)

 

I would have thought they should be on the main power + & - at the other end of the batteries, but even better on a sperate bus-bar outside of the battery box.

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9 minutes ago, bigcol said:

I do see what your getting at

 

Okay as the 12v out and the 24v in needs a grnd, could I just link the two transformer negative/ grnds together at the transformer

Yes. It’s all the -ve point whether it’s at the battery, the busbar, or somewhere else. 

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One last try.

 

The 2 IN wires from your 24v to 12v converter should go to the 24v , black negative to terminal 3, red positive with a fuse in line outside the battery box to terminal 4.

 

The 12v OUT negative goes to the terminal 3 as well but the positive 12v  goes to your 12v distribution connection.

 

You seem so far out of your depth with this that you are drowning, please get someone who knows what they are doing to sort it out.

 

I still think you will need to replace all the batteries in one go with 4 new identical batteries.

 

 

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Col, its your boat and I applaud your attempts to sort out your battery problems via this forum.

All I can say is that if I were in your position now, before spending any money on more equipment / batteries, I'd call in the man who helped me maintain 3 different boats over about 15 years. Servicing, engine diagnostics, gear box repairs and battery installation - he's not cheap, but he is good.

 

Mobile Marine Engineer

Tel: 07941 048847

 Specialising in diesel engine service and repair. Operating on the Grand Union, Oxford andThames. Ed. Boden

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