Multi fuel front glass replacement

[andybarrett1]

Hi thank you for reading!

 

Just replacing the front fire glass on my multifuel fire stove 

 

The four fixings that hold the glass in place have sheared and failed ... No way of replacing ?

 

Has this happened to any others out there. .. Did you find a solution.    Did you find a glue / cement that would hold at the high temperatures ???

 

Thank you for any possible help 

 

Andy

[matty40s]

Drill the old ones out and tap for a larger bolt, failing this, drill completely through each hole then nut and bolting through, sealing with cement as you do it.

[steve hayes]

18 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Drill the old ones out and tap for a larger bolt, failing this, drill completely through each hole then nut and bolting through, sealing with cement as you do it.

That’s what I had to do.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

There isn't a glue that will survive these sorts of temperatures. As others have said, drill and tap a new threaded hole in the door, or drill through and seal a bolt in. The drill and tap approach is the neatest, but needs learning a new skill and some inexpensive kit if you've not done it before. Useful to have though as once you know how it comes in handy around the boat.

 

If it is a cast iron door, then it may well be best to place the new fixing hole alongside the old one with the broken stub, rather than try and drill out the old one. This way the existing size of bolt can be used, rather than go to the next size up. Cast iron stove doors drill and tap very easily. Go steady with the drill and regularly check the depth, so you don't break through to the front side, but have a good depth for threads to be cut by the tap.

 

On a couple of friends Boatman stove, I have used the trick of making a clip out of a 2p piece, drilled off centre, so it can be rotated on to the glass to fit, or remove. The glass on these stoves has the glass tape seal around the edge, so there is some compliance as the 2p is rotated.

 

It is easier and less likely to break the screw to turn the clips with a pair of pliers, rather than try and loosen the screw. Unless the stove is very new, trying to unscrew the fixing bolts is almost guaranteed to shear them.

 

Jen

[BEngo]

Fit the new bolts with plenty of copper grease on the threads, and use stainless steel A2 or A4 ones.  Hex cap heads are best as the Allen key hole doesn't seem to corrode as badly an an ordinary bolt head.

N

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

How to drill and tap a hole, by the person with the worlds most boring voice. This is M8, but the same applies for smaller bolts. Just make sure you use the right size tap drill.

 

Jen

 

 

[alan_fincher]

Make and model of stove?

Some like the Villager Heron or Puffin are famous for this type of failure, and a work-around is often a better option than spending a lot of money reinstating the original arrangements, only to get the same expensive failure a few months later, (but please don't ask how I learnt this!)

[bizzard]

Trouble is he wasn't tapping a thread he was tapping a fred.  Not sure if that was a plug tap or a second, anyway I'd do a few turns with a tapered first tap first which would align the next tap more accurately and act as a guide for the next or plug tap. 

[nb Innisfree]

18 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

Make and model of stove?

Some like the Villager Heron or Puffin are famous for this type of failure, and a work-around is often a better option than spending a lot of money reinstating the original arrangements, only to get the same expensive failure a few months later, (but please don't ask how I learnt this!)

On our Puffin I drilled out the original studs and squared the holes off with a file to accept 6mm ss coach bolts (low profile) On the inside ss penny washers and ss nuts held the glass securely, dead easy then to the replace the glass if needed. 

Edited January 1, 2019 by nb Innisfree

[Slim]

19 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

There isn't a glue that will survive these sorts of temperatures. As others have said, drill and tap a new threaded hole in the door, or drill through and seal a bolt in. The drill and tap approach is the neatest, but needs learning a new skill and some inexpensive kit if you've not done it before. Useful to have though as once you know how it comes in handy around the boat.

 

If it is a cast iron door, then it may well be best to place the new fixing hole alongside the old one with the broken stub, rather than try and drill out the old one. This way the existing size of bolt can be used, rather than go to the next size up. Cast iron stove doors drill and tap very easily. Go steady with the drill and regularly check the depth, so you don't break through to the front side, but have a good depth for threads to be cut by the tap.

 

On a couple of friends Boatman stove, I have used the trick of making a clip out of a 2p piece, drilled off centre, so it can be rotated on to the glass to fit, or remove. The glass on these stoves has the glass tape seal around the edge, so there is some compliance as the 2p is rotated. 

 

It is easier and less likely to break the screw to turn the clips with a pair of pliers, rather than try and loosen the screw. Unless the stove is very new, trying to unscrew the fixing bolts is almost guaranteed to shear them.

 

Jen

I'd try that coin  onmy Squirrel next time I change the glass but I won't be able to afford another 8 p

The first time I changed the glass and the studs broke I managed to drill the old ones out and deliberately went all the way through. Can't remember if I re-tapped the same size or went 1mm up. Stainless bolts in from the outside, cut the heads off with a junior hacksaw, lick of stove paint and Bob's your uncle.

I was taught how to drill and tap by my dad at a very early age before electric drills became normal. He always said to use the best quality drills and taps possible, advice that has stuck.

 

Frank

[bizzard]

I'd put little pads of fireproof material under the washers, like bits of a fire blanket or bits of cut off fireproof tape to spread the pressure, otherwise the washer might crack the glass as the nuts are tightened, which should be tightened ''just so'' enough to just hold the glass with minimum pressure.  The channel that the glass sits in in the door should be scraped out and cleaned thoroughly, and tiny hard bits left will probably crack the glass, if not when tightening the nuts but later when its heating up or cooling down.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

This ^^^^^^. The two stoves I've done the eccentric 2p glass clip thing on were boatmens, where the glass seal wraps round the edge and provides cushioning between the 2p and the glass. On something like a Squirrel stove, where there is a thin glass fibre tape between door and glass, but not between glass and spring clips, add an extra bit of self adhesive glass fibre tape on the glass where the 2p rotates on to it.

28 minutes ago, Slim said:

I'd try that coin  onmy Squirrel next time I change the glass but I won't be able to afford another 8 p

 

If you think 8p is expensive, try seeing how much Morso would charge for a set of clips! ?

[Guest]

19 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

Make and model of stove?

Some like the Villager Heron or Puffin are famous for this type of failure, and a work-around is often a better option than spending a lot of money reinstating the original arrangements, only to get the same expensive failure a few months later, (but please don't ask how I learnt this!)

Exactly what happened with our Puffin. Drill through and stainless nuts and bolts hold the glass fine. 

Another trick I have learned is to keep a piece of steel plate cut exactly to the size of the glass so that when you drop the poker through the glass at that worst possible time, it can be quickly bolted in place until you get a new glass. Keeps the home fires burning.

Edited January 1, 2019 by Guest

[nb Innisfree]

25 minutes ago, catweasel said:

Exactly what happened with our Puffin. Drill through and stainless nuts and bolts hold the glass fine. 

Another trick I have learned is to keep a piece of steel plate cut exactly to the size of the glass so that when you drop the poker through the glass at that worst possible time, it can be quickly bolted in place until you get a new glass. Keeps the home fires burning.

Or a spare glass? 

[Guest]

9 minutes ago, nb Innisfree said:

Or a spare glass? 

It would get broken on our boat!
Fair point though.

[BEngo]

I keep a spare complete door for our Squirrel.  Much easier to swap over and the new glass can then be fitted at leisure once the old door has cooled off. 

N

[andybarrett1]

OK.... 

 

Thank you all...Will be attempting the Drill  / Tap it  over next week .... BBS is ordered for 19th so need to sort  before then. (Big hole not good)

 

Glas on its way !

 

Also the use of 2ps as clips is great :-)

 

 

 

Thank You all

 

Andy

[roland elsdon]

Glass on our puffin broke in november. Bought bolts, and washers , drilled 2 pence pieces, bought glass and tape. 

 

Smashed out glass, wire wheeled nuts, put on spanner. Every one  undid, all clips intact.

At least im prepared next time.

[bizzard]

Erm. It might be a good idea to take the glass out every year or two and turn it upside down, like they do to big shop plate glass windows, like the maturing process cheeses which they keep turning over every so often because all the goodness keeps sinking to the bottom. I believe all the goodness gradually sinks to the bottom in stove door glass too leaving it unstable and brittle, why it can bust easily.   Check with Mr Carl Pilkington. .