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Security question


DannyC

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34 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

It would worry me to have key operated locks on the inside of the boat. Just think trying to put a key in in a smoky dark boat at night

 

Once you fit something that uses a Euro Cylinder, you can choose the barrel to suit. Barrels are available in conventional key from both sides versions or with a thumb turn on one side.

 

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16 minutes ago, mayalld said:

Once you fit something that uses a Euro Cylinder, you can choose the barrel to suit. Barrels are available in conventional key from both sides versions or with a thumb turn on one side.

 

I wouldnt trust anything that goes by that name! ?

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I fitted espagnolette locks on front and rear doors with high security Yale lock barrels.

 

Something like this:-

 

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/jedo-european-style-locking-espagnolette-bolt-polished-brass-261685

 

Given that the locking bolts are brass its not the highest possible security but I figure that anyone wanting to get in will smash a window, so what is the point of grater strength in the lock. I do have other locks fitted which I use when leaving the boat, but they are not obvious from outside.

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4 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

I wouldnt trust anything that goes by that name! ?

In the case of Euro cylinder locks, you'd be right.

Most are fitted with the cylinder protruding from the door, and it's easy to snap it out with a well placed hammer blow.

Even if fitted flush, one can buy a tool which slides in around the cylinder, and gives the required leverage to snap it out.

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A Yale-type lock is simple and reliable. One door locks shut with shoot bolts / espagnolette / whatever. The other door slams shut just like a house front door. Pretty easy for any boat yard to fit for you. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Iain_S said:

In the case of Euro cylinder locks, you'd be right.

Most are fitted with the cylinder protruding from the door, and it's easy to snap it out with a well placed hammer blow.

Even if fitted flush, one can buy a tool which slides in around the cylinder, and gives the required leverage to snap it out.

Only the cheap euro locks are vulnerable, you can get a 3 star cylinders which aren’t.

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9 hours ago, Iain_S said:

In the case of Euro cylinder locks, you'd be right.

Most are fitted with the cylinder protruding from the door, and it's easy to snap it out with a well placed hammer blow.

Even if fitted flush, one can buy a tool which slides in around the cylinder, and gives the required leverage to snap it out.

This is a common myth and far less applicable to the more modern versions, though as in my earlier post, there are limits to how secure you can be (unless you put armour plate over all the windows)

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My old uncle was a rep for Dunlop tyres all his life for Lancashire and Cheshire, he had his firms car stolen and broken into so many times in places like Manchester and Liverpool that ha decided to never lock them and fitted a hidden switch to turn off the SU electric petrol pump on his Austin II00' 1300. That way they'd get in without any damage, drive off only to conk out up just up the road, usually at a juntion or traffic lights when the carburetter ran out of petrol. The thief would jump out and scarper and he'd get his car back undamaged and intact.

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2 minutes ago, bizzard said:

My old uncle was a rep for Dunlop tyres all his life for Lancashire and Cheshire, he had his firms car stolen and broken into so many times in places like Manchester and Liverpool that ha decided to never lock them and fitted a hidden switch to turn off the SU electric petrol pump on his Austin II00' 1300. That way they'd get in without any damage, drive off only to conk out up just up the road, usually at a juntion or traffic lights when the carburetter ran out of petrol. The thief would jump out and scarper and he'd get his car back undamaged and intact.

We try and stop scruffs getting into the boat as valuables are usually in the boat and they don’t want the boat itself. Cars are different as the car is the thing they usually want.

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A handy option for stern doors is an aluminium channel or other strong member which reaches across the door aperture. You drill a hole in the "outer" door ie the one which overlaps the other. If just one door then drill near the door handle side. Half way up the door. Pass a coach bolt through this hole and a corresponding hole in the aluminium channel and tighten it up with a wing nut. 

 

or you could use a stout piece of wood instead of the ally. This braces the door closed from inside. When exiting you lean over the doors and tighten up the brace with the hatch open.  To break in you would need to destroy the coach bolt head. 

 

Then you close the hatch and drill the hatch runner to allow a padlock to be fitted holding the hatch closed. 

 

It does depend on style and design of door and hatch specially the runners. Will not work on a hatch which can be lifted off when closed. 

 

Very secure though and if you are inside you can secure the hatch with a normal shoot bolt so in the event of an emergency can slide the hatch rapidly and pop out the top. 

 

Also quite a nice low profile way to make it less obvious whether or not someone is on the boat. You can opt to disguise the padlock if necessary. 

 

 

Edited by magnetman
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1 hour ago, pearley said:

We certainly dont lock ours when we are onboard, not even at night.

Mine is never locked, not even bolts when we are onboard. Having done fire training I smoke filled rooms I know how hard it is to find anything, let alone putting a key in a hole or even find a key sticking out of one

 

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2 hours ago, Horace42 said:

Padlock or not, it must be pretty easy to tell if a is unoccupied.

I padlock my boat from the outside when I am away, and keep the padlock inside when on board.

How are you going to tell if there is someone on the boat if there are no visible locks?

I know sometimes you can use flues to judge this sort of thing and lights in the evening but other than that what would make you certain?

Edited by magnetman
Typo
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