Jump to content

Cover for tiller bearing


Troyg

Featured Posts

Hi all,

 

I am looking for a rubber cover/grommet that I can slide over the tiller to keep the rain off the top bearing. I am thinking something like the rubber you used to see around car gear sticks.

 

I thought it would be simple to find but after searching online I have struggled to really find anything suitable. I just keep coming across CV boots for cars.

 

See photo below, this shows the exposed bearing. It needs to fit on the tiller and the part around the bearing will just overhang to cover the bearing - is will turn with the tiller. It isn't an issue if its designed for a smaller shaft as I can just cut to size hopefully. Hope that makes sense!

 

Thanks475253467_TillerBearing.JPG.f0959eae5dcbcde4c10b6ef6153039d9.JPG

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Troyg said:

Hi all,

 

I am looking for a rubber cover/grommet that I can slide over the tiller to keep the rain off the top bearing. I am thinking something like the rubber you used to see around car gear sticks.

 

I thought it would be simple to find but after searching online I have struggled to really find anything suitable. I just keep coming across CV boots for cars.

 

See photo below, this shows the exposed bearing. It needs to fit on the tiller and the part around the bearing will just overhang to cover the bearing - is will turn with the tiller. It isn't an issue if its designed for a smaller shaft as I can just cut to size hopefully. Hope that makes sense!

 

Thanks475253467_TillerBearing.JPG.f0959eae5dcbcde4c10b6ef6153039d9.JPG

 

 

Car or van CV joint gaiter/boot kit Get a split universal type which you can wrap around and glue together with the super glue provided. Clips and a craft knif is also provided to trim it to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, LadyG said:

I feel ill

 

1 minute ago, LadyG said:

I feel ill

The idea of them is that they can maintain drive whilst swivelling in any direction, when the vehicle is being steered and the suspension is going up and down. I think it was the f/w/d Mini in 1959 that first used them. Prior to the CV joint bulky twin Hardy Spicer spider shafts were used on any f/w/d car like Citroen Light 15.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bizzard said:

 

The idea of them is that they can maintain drive whilst swivelling in any direction, when the vehicle is being steered and the suspension is going up and down. I think it was the f/w/d Mini in 1959 that first used them. Prior to the CV joint bulky twin Hardy Spicer spider shafts were used on any f/w/d car like Citroen Light 15.

Think you could right. Think the early mini had a CV at the outer end of the drive shaft but a funny rubber thing at the inner end with a sort of rubber spider and u-bolts. If you let it wear too much the u-bolts machined a great big groove in the transmission casing. The later minis had a CV at both ends (I think).

 

Very nice animation of the CV joint operation ?

 

.............Dave

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, dmr said:

Think you could right. Think the early mini had a CV at the outer end of the drive shaft but a funny rubber thing at the inner end with a sort of rubber spider and u-bolts. If you let it wear too much the u-bolts machined a great big groove in the transmission casing. The later minis had a CV at both ends (I think).

 

Very nice animation of the CV joint operation ?

 

.............Dave

 

Your right. In fact the CV joints at first gave a lot of trouble on them, rapid wear. The test for that is to accelerate from a stand on full lock and if a knocking noise is heard it warns of bad wear, this still holds good as a test as almost all cars use the CV joint now. The rubber metalastic spider joints on Mini's and 1100's wore quite quickl;y too, made worse by oil leaks making them go soggy. After market spider joints were available from the likes og Quinton Hazel, all metal with needle roller bearings, or hard plastic ones, still held on with U bolts though, the trouble with them though was less flexibility, ''no give'' which made the clutch even more fierce.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason the CV joint is/was fitted is because, unlike a normal universal joint,  it produces a constant angular  velocity output regardless of the angle it is turned through.  Constant Velocity joint.  Clue in the name I think?.

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, bizzard said:

 

The idea of them is that they can maintain drive whilst swivelling in any direction, when the vehicle is being steered and the suspension is going up and down. I think it was the f/w/d Mini in 1959 that first used them. Prior to the CV joint bulky twin Hardy Spicer spider shafts were used on any f/w/d car like Citroen Light 15.

off topic, there is no up and down and round and round on a tiller/rudder,  surely?

Edited by LadyG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, my swan neck frequently does part of a round and round and occasionally a simultaneous up and down when the rudder hits submerged trolleys etc.  But No is the answer to your query really.  I think it's  just that a CV joint gaiter or boot is suited to the OP's need and after that we were  just having a normal CWDF mild divergence from the core topic.

When he has thought about it a bit Bizzard will probably come up with an eco fan powered rotating bearing shield.

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, LadyG said:

off topic, there is no up and down and round and round on a tiller/rudder,  surely?

Rudders, like a trunion they never complete a whole revolution. They do go up and down sometimes and jump off the skeg. But no angular movement.

2 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Well, my swan neck frequently does part of a round and round and occasionally a simultaneous up and down when the rudder hits submerged trolleys etc.  But No is the answer to your query really.  I think it's  just that a CV joint gaiter or boot is suited to the OP's need and after that we were  just having a normal CWDF mild divergence from the core topic.

When he has thought about it a bit Bizzard will probably come up with an eco fan powered rotating bearing shield.

N

 

Alpha_Stirling.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Rudders, like a trunion they never complete a whole revolution. They do go up and down sometimes and jump off the skeg. But no angular movement.

Bizz, I had to google that word. We ladies don't use it everyday.

My brother had a very neat Meccano set, and there were things in brass looked a bit trunion like.

Edited by LadyG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Bizz, I had to google that word. We ladies don't use it everyday.

My brother had a very neat Meccano set, and there were things in brass looked a bit trunion like.

Cars used to have lots of trunionified things like King pins, top and bottom suspension suspension trunions ect. Now all replaced by swivel ball joints. Yes Meccano did trunions and trunion plates. Big guns elevate up and down on trunions.

Edited by bizzard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut 2 disks out of old inner tube to fit the shaft, cut from the inner to the outer so that I could put them round the shaft without taking the boss off the shaft, then turned them so the cuts are out of line before sticking the 2 disks together with evostick

DSCF0758small.jpg

DSCF0757small.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Troyg said:

Thank you all. I thought there may have been something ready made. But your responses give me some ideas to make something up. Can see some inner tube being cut up....

A CV joint gaiter would be much neater. 

 

Or go to a scrap yard and get a gearstick gaiter off an old mini. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Troyg said:

Thank you all. I thought there may have been something ready made. But your responses give me some ideas to make something up. Can see some inner tube being cut up....

Whatever you do to protect the top  it will not stop the water attacking the underside of the bearing when you are going along and particularly when you go astern.  It is surprising how much water gets up a rudder tube.

If and when you replace the top bearing  ask for a new one with built in rubber seals.  The description number code will end 2RS.  A code that ends without anything except numbers or ends 2ZZ is not really the right bearing.

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, BEngo said:

Whatever you do to protect the top  it will not stop the water attacking the underside of the bearing when you are going along and particularly when you go astern.  It is surprising how much water gets up a rudder tube.

Quite!

 

It certainly would do nothing to keep a bearing dry in situations like we had in this clip!
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at the OP photo if you wish the rubber boot? whatever to fix to the swans neck & cover the bearing housing wouldn't the peg a 20pas t in the photo stop the "boot" from moving with the moving parts ? Or am I not seeing it correctly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.