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Best Window Frame Varnish.


Greyladyx

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As someone working in the business, I’d recommend Craftmaster Clear Varnish, I use it to protect scumble and over a range of decorated work. Here at home I have south facing wooden doors giving access to a coaching entry. Many years ago, when it first came out ( and yes, Phil is a mate ) I regrained the gates and applied a single coat of Craftmaster. That lasted for 5 years....I’m still using the stuff there, but with 3 or 4 coats instead. It did a sterling job protecting the red signwritten panels on our boat, adding another coat taking about an hour for both sides.

You may like to ponder the advice of one of my customers from long ago. He had been a sailor who turned to canal boating in later life. We were discussing varnish and he said, sagely “ Ahhh....the best varnish is the one you haven’t tried yet...”

Whichever you go for, put several coats on initially then ideally add another every 12/18 months. Don’t wait until it starts to degrade, it’s too late by then. Good luck.

  • Greenie 1
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Just in case you feel Dave might be biased (as he is in the trade and knows Phil) - I've tried it on his recommendation and it is the best I've ever used - the other issue he hasn't mentioned is that it is truly clear in that it doesn't add its own colour which is some situations is important.

"Atex" Canal Street Brierly Hill 01384 480500 are very a good supplier for "Craftmaster"  paint (esp raddle red) not sure if they do varnish.

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47 minutes ago, Trento said:

To my mind theres only one varnish for windows and bathrooms.

 

Liberon Kitchen and Bathroom Varnish.

Just don’t use it outside as it doesn’t appear to have any UV protection. It’s specifically specified as an interior varnish. 

 

For protection of exterior woodwork I swear by Le Tonkenois although I have to admit I’ve never tried Craftmaster. 

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Another vote for Le Tonkinois.  Epifanes also do a really good UV resistant varnish.

 

Not used Craftmaster , used to use ICI coach varnish.  Tough, and hard as nails but all gone now like the wonderful coach paint it protected.

N

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As I’ve said to customers on many occasions, varnishing is akin to marriage, not to be undertaken wantonly, recklessly or thoughtlessly. It brings with it a commitment to maintain it. Certainly, the applications that I use it for wouldn’t be served by other treatments. If allowed to flake then it’s not being properly maintained. I lettered one customer’s boat more than 25 years ago, he varnishes regularly and the panels are still looking good today. Just saying......

  • Greenie 1
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2 hours ago, dave moore said:

As I’ve said to customers on many occasions, varnishing is akin to marriage, not to be undertaken wantonly, recklessly or thoughtlessly. It brings with it a commitment to maintain it. Certainly, the applications that I use it for wouldn’t be served by other treatments. If allowed to flake then it’s not being properly maintained. I lettered one customer’s boat more than 25 years ago, he varnishes regularly and the panels are still looking good today. Just saying......

I also used Craftmaster varnish on our motor.  When we sold the boat the paintwork was 17 years old and was still a deep, shiny red.  Each year I would lightly rub the surface down with fine wire wool before applying the varnish.

I've got a new paint job on our butty with the lettering done by Dave.  I'm in two minds whether to apply varnish to the new paint or wait a few years.  

 

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There is only one Craftmaster Clear varnish, having checked the website. It’s the same stuff I use for both wood and metal. Worth a look at the advice offered regarding maintenance, much as I have already mentioned. As you say, a job for warmer, drier weather, preferably under cover if possible.

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I just used a decent yacht varnish for internal window frames (can't remember the brand). Avoid PU varnishes because as already mentioned it is subject to UV damage and your internal window frames will get periods of prolonged UV exposure. Condensation will eventually get under yacht varnish but it's simple enough to repair those areas. I'm not sure if the non-varnish penetrating treatments really protect the wood from standing moisture - aren't they just stains?

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I have used Craftmaster clear on dulling paintwork to very good effect, even Ron Hough was impressed with  the finish. However that was on painted steel. Personally, on wood I have always preferred a good quality Yacht Varish. I use Blackfriars but have heard very good reports of Le Tonkinois. Whatever you do decide upon, there are two important points,  it must be spirit based for logievity, and it must not be polyeurethane which is adversley effected by sunlight.

 

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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