Lister SR2 problems

[Tracy D'arth]

You need a new exhaust system.

[David Mack]

47 minutes ago, Tom llewellyn said:

Clearly the exhaust pipe has failed and that is why exhaust gas is coming out. The lump to the right of the crack looks to be two flanges, one part of the exhaust manifold, the other attached to a section of flexible exhaust which has failed. The flexible was probably screwed into the flange piece. The other end screwed into the end of the silencer. Something like this:

https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/engineering-tools/exhaust-system/flexible-exhaust-bellows.

 

To get the old flexible out you are going to need heat and brute force.

[bizzard]

50 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Clearly the exhaust pipe has failed and that is why exhaust gas is coming out. The lump to the right of the crack looks to be two flanges, one part of the exhaust manifold, the other attached to a section of flexible exhaust which has failed. The flexible was probably screwed into the flange piece. The other end screwed into the end of the silencer. Something like this:

https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/engineering-tools/exhaust-system/flexible-exhaust-bellows.

 

To get the old flexible out you are going to need heat and brute force.

The flexible pipe would normally be braized into flanges at both ends of it, not screwed.

[bizzard]

Looks like you have the original Burgess silencer as supplied by Lister in their engine installation kit.

[Stilllearning]

12 hours ago, bizzard said:

The flexible pipe would normally be braized into flanges at both ends of it, not screwed.

That is the way it should be done, having done a few myself. If the OP doesn’t want to do it himself then he needs to find a good Lister mechanic or a local blacksmith.

[Tom llewellyn]

Thankyou all for such useful information! Neither myself or my friend have the tools for or have done brazing before... will it harm much to use the old flanges with new bolts in? Or if it is important will have to save up some money for a professional. Some better photos attached... 

[Tom llewellyn]

We are having trouble getting the old bolts of the old flanges.. we may have to axel grind them off! I'm blaming my friend Louis for rounding off one of the nuts   

[Tony Brooks]

even if the corners are rounded what is known as a "flank drive" socket should still grip but I fear then need penetrating oil, lost of heat, hammering and remember to undo a rusted  bolt tighten it a little first.

[Tracy D'arth]

You need a new exhaust system.

 

Don't hammer on the cast iron exhaust manifold, it will break very easily.  Cut the bolts off, saw or grinder.

[noone]

You could try separating the 2 flanges that are under all the corrosion on the exhaust manifold,they should be held together with 2 nuts + bolts.That would give you a flange to bolt a new out-pipe to.

Be careful not to snap any of the lugs holding the exhaust manifold to the engine.DON'T HIT IT with ANYTHING!

If you cant unbolt them,find the line where they join,and GENTLY hacksaw them apart or use a very thin cutting disc and go slow.

Try not to damage the surface of the flange on the exhaust manifold side,as this needs to be a flush fit for your new out-pipe flange.

Hope this was helpful.

 

best of luck ?

[bizzard]

That Burgess silencer must be very old, take the lagging off it and inspect it, you may have to get another. I doubt if you'll get another easily like that with the same large bolted flange., unless made to order by an exhaust specialist.

Edited October 4, 2020 by bizzard

[Tom llewellyn]

Thanks again for all the advice.... it is helping us a lot.. do people feel I will need the flexible exhaust bellows like on the link that the chap sent above  (https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/bellows-with-1-1-2-bsp-male-ports-20-length-ea-009) that has the 2inch or 1.5 inch ports? The diameter of the flexible pipe in the middle part seemed to be around 1.9 inches... we could see the boat has an old style manifold on like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/133467674270?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133467674270&targetid=939009504906&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006465&poi=&campaignid=10204071489&mkgroupid=107296306292&rlsatarget=aud-629407026465:pla-939009504906&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113627617&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5eX7BRDQARIsAMhYLP87WaQFDhmbBYRR_GhM5C6MKuh4oV6A8h4AT2MoEnOJj9tUcuSsWE8aAvMyEALw_wcB)

[Tracy D'arth]

1.5" will be adequate.  These flexys are available with male or female ends or both. The standard boat silencer is also made as 1.5" so it all screws together once you have the flange fitted to the engine end.

 

You may have to get a plate made to fit the silencer to the hull with 4 bolts and a gasket.

[David Mack]

4 hours ago, Tom llewellyn said:

We are having trouble getting the old bolts of the old flanges.. we may have to axel grind them off! I'm blaming my friend Louis for rounding off one of the nuts   

I would be minded to cut off the bolt head and/or nut. If you are lucky you might then be able to drive the bolts out. If not you may need to drill them out.

[Tom llewellyn]

We have completed the important milestone for this project of getting the bolts and the flanges off.... the top bolt that had welded itself in was a challenge! lol.  Do people think these are reusable flanges? looks like a job to get the old exhaust pipe ends out.. were they threaded in or brazed? Is it possible to get flanges like these easily? they look a lot thicker than the ones I have seen on a quick google search. Warmly Tom

[bizzard]

40 minutes ago, Tom llewellyn said:

We have completed the important milestone for this project of getting the bolts and the flanges off.... the top bolt that had welded itself in was a challenge! lol.  Do people think these are reusable flanges? looks like a job to get the old exhaust pipe ends out.. were they threaded in or brazed? Is it possible to get flanges like these easily? they look a lot thicker than the ones I have seen on a quick google search. Warmly Tom

Probably reuseable but almost certainly brazed in. You would need to heat the whole things to at least blood red hot to get the bits of old flexy out.

[BWM]

31 minutes ago, Tom llewellyn said:

We have completed the important milestone for this project of getting the bolts and the flanges off.... the top bolt that had welded itself in was a challenge! lol.  Do people think these are reusable flanges? looks like a job to get the old exhaust pipe ends out.. were they threaded in or brazed? Is it possible to get flanges like these easily? they look a lot thicker than the ones I have seen on a quick google search. Warmly Tom

The one on the left looks to have the remains of a flexi section, and it wouldn't be a bad thing to replace it with the same, as it cuts down the vibration transmitted to the hull and gives a little leeway allowing easier fitting. 

  I'd level off the faces that have been damaged in the grinding process as they will likely allow the bolts to loosen, but if you take them to whoever is going to do the fabrication of the repaired section they will advise you on what is needed. 

[bizzard]

Or possibly drill the bits out with a circular core bit of the right size.

[Tom llewellyn]

If we can't repair the old flanges could we simply replace them with 2 of these Lister CS flanges below and insert the new flexi pipe in? It is not proving easy to drill the old felxi pipes out with a standard holesaw...

[Tracy D'arth]

Just weld 1 1/2" couplings  ( Or half of a coupling ) to your existing flanges? All for saving money.

[David Mack]

43 minutes ago, Tom llewellyn said:

If we can't repair the old flanges could we simply replace them with 2 of these Lister CS flanges below and insert the new flexi pipe in? It is not proving easy to drill the old felxi pipes out with a standard holesaw...

If those flanges fit, then you could use them with the Midland Chandlers flexible hose linked to earlier. Probably cheaper than welding a coupling to your existing flange if you have to pay a welder to do the job.